welp she runs, but having idle problems

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Trigger
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my car is having the same problem all of a sudden but i am pretty sure its the ground on the battery...did you ever check that?


j-z
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 4:26 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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ding ding ding ding!!!!!!!!!!!!! i just got a call from the place i took my car to and they told me i need to have my battery grounded to the block. i asked them so thats what my problem was and he said yeah. i was surprised cause ive had the battery in the back with everything exactly the same as it is now for two years now, and now it all of a sudden out of the blue this shlt happens??!?!? im not complaining though as he said theyve only got a half hour in it and its only gonna cost me $35. alot better compared to the $1000/hr rate at enjuku and they probably wouldve spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong. i asked him if i could just run a ground from the lock to the chassis and he said if i had a full frame car i could but since its unibody i cant. i really dont want to have to run yet another cable from the battery all the way up to the front again. ill probably try and just ground the block to the chassis and add another ground too. i cant believe it though after 4 pages and 160 posts in this thread that this is what it comes down to. and its really funny that trigger posts exactly whats wrong right before they call me and tell me thats my problem. they said the ecu gets power and they got the starter to turn, so i guess im game. ive got to go over there and wait for a flat bed though to bring her back home.

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rn240sx
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j-z wrote:ive had the battery in the back with everything exactly the same as it is now for two years now, and now it all of a sudden out of the blue this shlt happens??!?!?
Where do u have the ground tied down to in the trunk..?? My battery is also in the trunk and i just found one huge 14mm bolt and loosened it up, scraped off the paint till i got raw metal from the frame and slapped my battery ground there... Its been this way for yrs with no probems yet.

So i take it ull have her running this weekend..??

Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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ROFLMAO. Almost every post I made in this thread, was saying it was a grounding issue

dontbugme
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 8:06 am

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Hey J-Z, I'm happy to hear that your problem is fixed. Now, I'm going to lambast your lazy *** for not doing it yourself!!! Have there not been multiple posts about checking your grounds? I know I had at least three. The simplest was just hooking your battery directly to the engine (like the shop did). If you come to a forum for help, we expect you to at least try our solutions rather than just posting you have, which you obviousely didn't. Don't waste our time if you don't want answers. There's enough sob storys on this forum as there are people willing to try. And, since I'm in a rant mode, why is it all you guys in FLA seem to have the most problems? I know the school systems suck down there but ****, this isn't rocket science - though it may be above the "you want fries with that?" mentality.

I have to admit there are some really knowledgable posters here who are very dedicated and committed to advancing the marque but unfortunately j-z, you have met my expectations of the child of the future. Not good!

Let the forum know how it goes. For me, a one time tresspasser who stole a log on, I'm out of here. This forum, the top of the nico ones for modified 240s, has degenerated to the ricefields.

Good luck to the good guys - you know who you are and have infintite more patience than I.

j-z
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ok you know what, you shouldnt have posted most of what you said. shouldve just left it at im glad you found out the problem was. thats all i really care about now. yeah i remember a few of you said to check my grounds, but how do you know i didnt. i tried every single thing you told me to do, and i was grateful for every bit of info you were posting and to everyone else. again, thanks everyone including you dontbugme!!!!!!!!!!! im not putting this on anyone at all, but not one single person suggested to run a ground directly from my battery to my engine block. why would i have even thought of doing that? the battery and all the grounds have been exactly in the same spot where they are now for two years now without a problem until now. please dont insult my intelligence and know how just because something real simple and stupid was the cause of my problem. everyone gets stumped on simple things all the time. shlt, its the simple things that stump most of the time. i have no idea where you got that child of the future BS??? whered you pull that one from for real? just because something real simple and stupid happens you degrade my intelligence and then base that on everyone else that post in this forum. not right at all. how many other people on here will take their own motor out all by themselves, rebuild the entire thing by themselves, and put it all back together? not to mention how many other people on here have custom made their own individual throttle body setup and run very successfully (like 3 including me). how many people on here can properly replace a quarter panel on here, do all the body work, and paint the entire car to restore to factory condition? please dont shlt on me and insult my ability to do things. im not trying to make a pissing contest out of what i just posted, but i know im one very skilled and talented individual who puts their entire soul into their own work. .another thing, maybe why you seem to read problems on this forum more specific than others is because we all do our own work and dont pay someone else to do it like most people do.

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Trigger
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dont worry about him man....all that matters is you got it figured out now back to your original problem lol. Oh and all nissan's are very touchy about the ground. Mine has been there for a while now too and all of a sudden it dont work. I am thinking about getting a grounding kit off of ebay to ground the engine to the body...that should work just as good as running a new ground cable to the engine. well keep us up to date

Tim

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rn240sx
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dontbugme wrote:And, since I'm in a rant mode, why is it all you guys in FLA seem to have the most problems? I know the school systems suck down there but ****, this isn't rocket science - though it may be above the "you want fries with that?" mentality.
Well not "ALL" of us Fla guys have these problems...

j-z
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yeah my friend gave me a bunch of grounds last night and im gonna ground the shlt out of the motor. and robert, my battery is grounded to the spare tire holder. i sanded all the paint off of it and its bare metal. but yeah, back to my original problem lol.

j-z
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welp i just put two grounds on the motor and she turns over. i still have another one, but i dont know where to put it at. she didnt fire up, so im gonna pull the plugs and clean them as im sure theyre more black than a chimney stack.

dontbugme
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Have to come back for just one more clarification:
j-z wrote: im not putting this on anyone at all, but not one single person suggested to run a ground directly from my battery to my engine block. why would i have even thought of doing that?
Because I mentioned you should....
dontbugme wrote: If you don't have power at those ecu pins and all your fuses and relays are good I'd try charging your battery, remove it from the trunk and isolate the battery cables back there so they don't touch anything. Next, get a set of jumper cables and connect the pos terminal of the battery to the junction in the engine compartment that the pos cable from the trunk is connected to, i.e., the original battery cable connection. Now connect the negative lead to a good ground somwhere on the engine.


What could be simpler than this?!

Aad as for you rn240sx: Well not "ALL" of us Fla guys have these problems...
rn240sx wrote: Ever since i went to a blow thru (maf) setup, i left the turbo intake side wide open with no pipe and no filter so now when u look at the turbo all u see is thewheel....
Please, if you want to destroy you're engine, don't post it for the uninitiated to try. It really is the blind leading the blind with statements like that.

I have a lot of respect for you j-z for doing all your mechanical work and you seemed to have done a good job. Sorry if I came across as a raging lunatic and I certainly don't want to turn this into some kind of internet 'who's better than whom' contest but there's a lot of people out there who don't know what the **** they're talking about. Hope you get it all sorted out.

j-z
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woooooooooooopsie daisy! i stand corrected as that pretty much is the same thing as running a cable from my battery to the block, and wouldve solved the problem. again, i appreciate every single bit of input you gave me. maybe you can still help me to get it to run now because ever since i moved the maf infront of the iacv it doesnt fire anymore. i was gonna check the plugs, but it was too hot today for being outside to do anything.

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Trigger
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if your running a safc then make sure you have the right in and outs...it could be making a difference with the maf in the right place...i had that problem with my n60 but after a little changing of some numbers she fired up.

j-z
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yeah im running an afc with the stock maf cause some fuker on here sold me a z32 that doesnt work . anyways its on 2in and 2 out like it should be. i think tomorrow im going to cut a hole in my cold pipe thats right before the TB and weld a nipple on for the iacv so i can put my maf back in the cold pipe and go from there. right now the maf is just sitting pretty much on the inlet for my turbo with no filter on the end of it because theres no room.

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rn240sx
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dontbugme wrote:Aad as for you rn240sx: Well not "ALL" of us Fla guys have these problems...

Please, if you want to destroy you're engine, don't post it for the uninitiated to try. It really is the blind leading the blind with statements like that.

Modified by rn240sx at 8:32 PM 7/29/2006

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1995240sxSE
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are you sure it is supposed to be 2 in 2 out, I think it is supposed to be 5 in and 5 out!

j-z
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GOOD NEWS guys! well... its good news towards getting this ***** on the road. i turned the key into the on position and ran to check the fuel pressure gauge on my MR external fpr. i noticed it drops pretty fast. it goes up to 20 psi and drops steadily the entire way to 0 kinda fast. for shlts and giggles i disconnect the the fuel feed hose and plug it directly into the regulator bypassing the entire fuel rail/injector assembly. i turn the key and check the gauge and it holds the pressure much longer and doesnt drop fast at all, but it still does. i knew something was up seeing a significant difference by bypassing the rail. next thing i do is hook the lines back up to the rail and unbolt the rail from the mani. i can see the now exposed injectors and turn the key so the pump turns on. results were as i expected... the first injector was leaking a few drops pretty stradily and the last one closest to the firewall was pissing a stream! the two middle ones were dry as opposed to the end injectors. i pull the leaking ones out and both of the lower orings on them were ripped. how they got like that i dont know?? i also checked to see if i have spark and i do have that. also, when i pulled the plugs out the ones with the leaking injectors were soaked with fuel. all of them were black as well, so im just gonna buy a new set. i also pulled the dip stick and it reaked of fuel as well, so i gotta drain that shlt out asap. i was also curious to see what the top of the pistons looked like. the first three from the front were evenly black across while the last one closest to the firewall was sparkling clean! so im guessing that cylinder was never combusting because of the nastly fuel leak and thats why its clean as a whistle compared to the others. i guess that can also explain why when it was running it seemed kinda weak and didnt sound right as if it were running on three cylinders. NOW i wonder if that last injector is even firing?? i guess i could plug it back into the harness before i put the new orings on and have my dad crank with the fuel pump fuse pulled and hold it in my hand to make sure. im going to replace all 4 injectors o rings with oem ones from nissan and test them to make sure they dont leak with the rail unbolted. that with new plugs, fresh oil, and a nipple welded onto my cold pipe for the iacv i think i should be good to go. .and yeah my afc was on 5/5 when i looked at it. i just forgot what i actually had it at. so justin, if youre reading this let me do these things first before you waste your time coming down this way.


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