The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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240sxcl50
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I have a clutch so thats fine. So 350 would be safe on the stock transmission?


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PapaSmurf2k3
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It depends on the clutch. What fluid are you running?

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240sxcl50
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Amsoil. And its a spec stage 3 clutch.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like you're good to go then.

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240sxcl50
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Ok so if both those are good here comes more questions.:)
so here we go then. when driving and coming to a stop when i push the clutch in if its in second it will still grab until i put it in neutral or another gear any ideas? Also when im driving it hard now and again at about 4k it will keep reving higher but theres no power it just stops pulling? the spedo even shows that its not picking up any more speed? any ideas?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like your clutch is slipping. Is your pedal adjusted correctly? Does the slave back fully off of the pivot fork?

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240sxcl50
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is there a guide how to adjust the pedal? and iv never checked if the slave does or not?

imbored205
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Car: 1995 240sx SE

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I am going to install a 1200 watt sound system in my 95 240sx SE and dont think the stock alternator would be able to handle it.

I will be doing the "big 3" upgrade but would also like to install a highoutput alternator. Where can I buy one without spending a fortune?

I have also read that a Nissan Quest alternator is interchangeable with the stock 240sx one, but will the 110amps still be enough?
diy-110-amp-nissan-quest-alternator-int ... 31961.html


And this would fit then right?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 3821N.html

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PapaSmurf2k3
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240sxcl50 wrote:is there a guide how to adjust the pedal? and iv never checked if the slave does or not?
Well, I can't remember if there is a guide somewhere, but you definitely want some pedal "free height", meaning you can move the pedal a bit before it really builds pressure in the master cylinder. Is your clutch engagement point super high?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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imbored205 wrote:I am going to install a 1200 watt sound system in my 95 240sx SE and dont think the stock alternator would be able to handle it.

I will be doing the "big 3" upgrade but would also like to install a highoutput alternator. Where can I buy one without spending a fortune?

I have also read that a Nissan Quest alternator is interchangeable with the stock 240sx one, but will the 110amps still be enough?
diy-110-amp-nissan-quest-alternator-int ... 31961.html


And this would fit then right?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 3821N.html
Yeah the quest alternator should work fine. Some auto parts stores sell upgraded alternators too. I just recommend adding a capacitor to your system if it doesn't have one already. Not sure what the "big 3" upgrade is.

ant-san
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:17 pm
Car: 89 nissan 240sx coupe

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ok i got a 89 coupe. yesterday i was drivin around n wat not and my car my car was doin its useual weird overheatin thing it does and so u kno i shut the car off let it cool down or watever but i go to start it up again and nothin happens car dont start at all so i tryed it again twice more lukily it wrked so i take off home and get to the nearest gas station were i do wat people do at the gas station and im gettin ready to leave and and it happens again but this time wen i try it it realy dnt start n i notice a funny clikkin noise comin frum were my car lighter is located but good thing 4 good natued people so gave me a jump and i got on my way 1nce again my car knowledge is pretty limited ne 1 got ne ideas i wanna say the lighter is drainin the batterry but thats just my wild geuss

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Try and use more punctuation next time you post something. That was difficult to read.

If it was clicking, then its either your battery or your starter. Has it been having a weak (slow) crank lately? If you are on the original starter, it very well could be on its way out.

imbored205
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How do I make the Airbag light stop flashing?

I tried turning the ignition on but not starting the car. Pressing the door ajar button thing 7 times then closing door real fast and starting the car. The light is still there and if I just go up to the part of pressing the buttons, the alarm goes off (emergency lights and horn go off).

Carfax only reports the car was in a front end collision on 1/13/10. The guy I bought it from confirmed it and said that it was just a small bump. There wasn't any frame damage and the airbags didnt deploy.

What do? Besides go to the dealer...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Probably an airbag sensor or something. There is probably a scan tool for it. I'd try autozone first to see if they can read it for free.

RPS13-NY
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I just got a redtop 240sx and want to know what i have to do exactly to go to a T28 and convert to external wastegate?, also i know theres a couple diff T28's would buying the cheapest one (wet float bearing..?) still be a good upgrade?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Realistically, you'll need to replace your factory exhaust manifold and probably downpipe to go to an external wastegate. You'll also have to address the engine management side of things considering you'll be moving more air at the same pressure at that point.

RPS13-NY
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Gotcha, also ive been reading more on wastegates and is it true its not much of an advantage to go external since im A: only running a smaller turbo like a GT28, and B: because im probably only gunna set my boost to 10psi, also can you tell me how much boost i can safely run on a t25 and/or a t28 on stock internals with a FMIC and tubo back exhaust (thanks a lot if you can help me out)

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stock block SRs can support quite a bit of horsepower (figure 350 at the wheels anyway), you just need the engine management and tuning to go along with it.

You really only have to upgrade wastegates if you find yourself a victim of boost creep.

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4cefed
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allenms240 wrote:You'll want GL-4 gear oil. GL-5 eats at the synchros in the transmission.
No it doesn't.

I went around and around on this one years ago. When synthetics were relatively new that was the case. However additives have been reworked so they don't attack yellow metals anymore. I believe it was the detergents that were the culprit. API specs dictate that GL-5 surpass specs of GL-4. I ended up calling several tech support centers from suppliers and even from the American Petroleum Institute. They all had the same story. Modern GL-5 will not harm the transmission in any way.

I've been using Valvoline's syncromesh for almost 3 years in one trans and I haven't observed any indications of wear or degradation.

RPS13-NY
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Lastly, if i upgrade to a GT28 (wet float bearing) i have to increase my fuel injectors rite? Do i have to get an aftermarket fuel rail and should i get 500cc injectors? And a walbro pump too i guess (thanks a lot ill stop asking questions now lol)

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The stock 370cc injectors will top out around 250whp. You do not need to get an aftermarket fuel rail. A walbro pump is always a good investment.
The size injector you will need depends on your power goals.

RPS13-NY
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Im aiming for 300hp i guess after i get my GT28, for now with my t25 ill aim for 240hp. and are u saying i dont need a fuel rail for 500cc injectors? They just replace the factory injectors without a rail? Also i was about to order a godspeed chrome manifold but i know im gunna need a bigger intercooler pipe for that manifold but is that all? Or do i need to adjust the fuel when i get the manny (thanks)

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PANDAemic
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Quick question... Recently my speedometer has been acting up. When I was driving the car for the first month of having it, it worked perfectly fine. Now recently it generally tells me what speed I'm going at but when I hit around 50mph it starts acting up and going haywire. It goes up and down really fast untill it suddenly just stops works and drops to zero. It stays at zero and eventually when I hit a red light and stop for a bit and then accelerate it all of a sudden starts working again. Anybody know how I can fix this?

EDIT: I'm on a 1989 240sx with a CA18DET swap. I also read up that having an after market stereo can effect this??

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PapaSmurf2k3
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RPS13-NY wrote:Im aiming for 300hp i guess after i get my GT28, for now with my t25 ill aim for 240hp. and are u saying i dont need a fuel rail for 500cc injectors? They just replace the factory injectors without a rail? Also i was about to order a godspeed chrome manifold but i know im gunna need a bigger intercooler pipe for that manifold but is that all? Or do i need to adjust the fuel when i get the manny (thanks)
No, you do not need a fuel rail. Just get drop-in injectors from Deatschwerks.

I don't know anything about a godspeed manifold. Why would you change it?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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PANDAemic wrote:Quick question... Recently my speedometer has been acting up. When I was driving the car for the first month of having it, it worked perfectly fine. Now recently it generally tells me what speed I'm going at but when I hit around 50mph it starts acting up and going haywire. It goes up and down really fast untill it suddenly just stops works and drops to zero. It stays at zero and eventually when I hit a red light and stop for a bit and then accelerate it all of a sudden starts working again. Anybody know how I can fix this?

EDIT: I'm on a 1989 240sx with a CA18DET swap. I also read up that having an after market stereo can effect this??
I'd check for funky wiring around the speed sensor on/near the trans. When you're pulling all that stuff out during a swap, sometimes the harness can get messed up

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PANDAemic
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
PANDAemic wrote:Quick question... Recently my speedometer has been acting up. When I was driving the car for the first month of having it, it worked perfectly fine. Now recently it generally tells me what speed I'm going at but when I hit around 50mph it starts acting up and going haywire. It goes up and down really fast untill it suddenly just stops works and drops to zero. It stays at zero and eventually when I hit a red light and stop for a bit and then accelerate it all of a sudden starts working again. Anybody know how I can fix this?

EDIT: I'm on a 1989 240sx with a CA18DET swap. I also read up that having an after market stereo can effect this??
I'd check for funky wiring around the speed sensor on/near the trans. When you're pulling all that stuff out during a swap, sometimes the harness can get messed up
Do you happen to have a write-up or tutorial that can show me what to look out for?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I don't, but the transmission layout should be semi the same, which would mean there are probably diagrams and such in the factory service manual, a link for which is located in my signature.

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240sxcl50
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Im here once again to ask a question since your so helpful here. What is a good strong diff and what difficulty is it to install said diff.

2hunglo1standhi
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Hey Im new here and i just wanted to know if IAP was still in buisness? I emailed but got no response. Dose anyone know?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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240sxcl50 wrote:Im here once again to ask a question since your so helpful here. What is a good strong diff and what difficulty is it to install said diff.
Pretty much all of the standard diffs from Nissan are strong as hell. Its what people swap to in S2000s and stuff when they blow their diffs.
R200 if you don't care about limited slip
R200v for viscous limited slip. Those are the most common.


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