StryfeS13's Build Thread..No more KA-T...5.3L LSx

[motoman399]

the ka head in stock form will support a lot of power. you can run it completely stock with a felpro headgasket untill 350. stock pistons, rings, bearings, everything.

[StryfeS13]

the ka head in stock form will support a lot of power. you can run it completely stock with a felpro headgasket untill 350. stock pistons, rings, bearings, everything.

Well the motor is going to have a cometic HG, supertech piston and rings, eagle rods, arp hardware, and clevite bearings. So I don't think the stock head will be that much of a burden...i mean, i already have it ported.

[StryfeS13]

Quick question before I buy my pistons. Do you need to gap Supertech piston rings or do they just come plug and play? Planning on buying supertech 9.1 forged pistons, clevite bearings, and arp hardware on saturday.

http://www.frsport.com/Supertech-P4-N89 ... 15919.html

they say S14 but I don't see why they wouldn't work for S13.

Answer: Yes, you need to gap them if you plan on going turbo. I believe the top gap is .017 and the second gap is .019. And no, it doesn't matter if they are S14 or S13 pistons.

[turbonxsx]

Cool another KA guy going turbo i hope everything goes well

[JDM Sil4ty]

its coming along nice. i hate the fact that we have a such thing called budgets. so gay. more updates mannn!

[StryfeS13]

Is this so cheap cause it's bad quality? I don't want to cut any corners at all. This says it's OEM but I don't believe it is, as AMS sells the oem timing chain kit for 250, and this is only 150.

http://www.frsport.com/OSK-13028-53F02- ... _3225.html

Answer: I bought an ebay timing kit for $79 and it works fine...

[StryfeS13]

Today I bought:

Supertech 9:1 Forged Pistons
ACL rod Bearings/Rock main bearings
ARP Main Studs

700 dollars = gone.
Bottom End = Done.
Still need to get a MLS HG, oil pan, oil pump, titanium valve springs/retainers, timing kit.


Will update as soon as they arrive at my doorstep

[StryfeS13]

Well, my pistons are on backorder and wont be here until like the 20th. So with that being said, things will be moving even slower.

On another note, which wheels do you guys think I should get? Not willing to spend more than 800 to be honest...They need to be 17's and at least 9 inches wide.
16X8 is acceptable too...

The car will be painted either like burgundy red-ish, or a jade green.

[badbob2121]

a bronze would look clean... your still 4 lug right?

[StryfeS13]

a bronze would look clean... your still 4 lug right?

Yep, still 4 lug. Probably gonna stay that way.

[StryfeS13]

Update, sorta.

-Pistons still haven't been shipped...no clue when FRSport is going to ship them.
-Bought a used oil pan off ebay, will be welding my turbo drain bung next weekish. but gotta cap it off for now...will be n/a for a while.
-Removed PCV. Tapped intake manifold PCV holes, then blocked them off. Gonna run a catch can...VC breather connected to PCV hose with a T, then from the T to the catch can, and then from the catch can to pre-turbo intake.
-Cant get anything for the car this paycheck, have to deal with smog sh1t...

And a question. When you remove your secondary butterfly valves, you obviously have to block off the hole where the swirl valve was, but do you have to block off the holes between each of the runners, where the shaft was? Or no?
Also, do you have to block off this middle hole right here? (between runners 2 and 3)

Answer: YES you have to block off holes in between each of the runners. And YES you have to block off the middle hole!!!



EDIT: Plugged it anyway...
if anyone is a computer nerd...a PCI bolt fits right in (the bolt that holds a card in its place)

And here's some more pics just outta boredom.




(rustoleum paint..lol)

[Midwest_240sx]

Ur build is coming along great brawh. Sorry about being a d!ck to you in my thread.

[StryfeS13]

Ur build is coming along great brawh. Sorry about being a d!ck to you in my thread.

Thanks. And it's cool.

This is how I plan on running my catch can. Figured I'd put it up for anyone who is removing their PCV on a KA.

[StryfeS13]

Today:

Bought Goo-Gone
Aluminum colored high temp spray paint
Scotch Brite
JB Weld to fill in butterfly holes (i hate jb weld)
Misc. hoses to replace intake hoses that were old/crummy

Pretty much I cleaned up the intake...no smog stuff left..also had to fill on the holes between the runners from taking out the butterfly valves...i hate jb weld..you put it on and it just runs, and runs, and runs...did i mention i HATE jb weld?

Lower intake manifold


Clean upper intake manifold..pcv blocked off


Fuel rail w/ new fuel hoses (old ones were done..) Upper/Lower intake



FRSport got a hold of me, said they will talk with Supertech tomorrow about my pistons.
On another note, does anyone know where I can get shims? I don't want to have a noisy cylinder head ever again...I'm looking for like an internet site, i dont want to go to nissan.

[motoman399]

why would you want to block off the pcv? if you dont have that valve your crank case can build pressure and blow seals from what i understand..

[StryfeS13]

why would you want to block off the pcv? if you dont have that valve your crank case can build pressure and blow seals from what i understand..

If you are building a turbo KA, you need to remove it. It doesn't ventilate when you turbocharge a ka, also it will leak at the vacuum tree where the pcv connects to the intake manifold because of the boost. You have to remove the tree, tap the holes, plug them with a screw and silicone, and then run a catch can in place of the pcv.

I read this somewhere (KA-T possibly) "What is being said is, once the hose on the PCV valve sees boost, the valve shuts and there is no way for the pressure in the crankcase to escape. The stock KA PCV system was not designed for boost."

[omgshawn]

No, you should definitely keep the PCV system, just change it a little bit. There is a thread on here that explains it well, using 2 catch cans and a 1 way valve for the pcv

[StryfeS13]

No, you should definitely keep the PCV system, just change it a little bit. There is a thread on here that explains it well, using 2 catch cans and a 1 way valve for the pcv

Well I am keeping the PCV system...I just don't want it in it's stock form (the vacuum tree attached to intake)

I've read thread after thread, and the only one that people really say is accurate is this one...
pcv-set-up-t366874.html

So it'd be stock PCV valve box > air/oil separator > check valve > intake manifold

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1?CT=999
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7775k53/=7v112z

How would I run it to the intake manifold? just make a hole, and thread it for a 3/8" fitting?

example..
(click to enlarge)


WD...chime in, seems like you're in a lot of the PCV threads.

[omgshawn]

That was the exact thread I was talking about, very good food for thought in there

You can run it to the stock location , or tap into the manifold if you would like. I did not get a chance to read your whole thread yet so I don't know your setup.

But yes stock PCV, air/oil separator(or catch can), check valve, then intake manifold. If you really want to do it right then run the same setup, but without the check valve, from the valve cover to intake as well. I'm redoing the whole PCV setup on my VH, will probably be using the same concept for that.

[Steady_One_S13]

Solid build! Looking good.

[StryfeS13]

So I figured out the PCV situation...without having to drill into the manifold or anything drastic. You can simply re-use ports where previous emissions equipment used to be.

Here are two pictures I just made so hopefully it's understandable.




So it'd be, PCV > AIR/OIL SEPARATOR > CHECK VALVE > INTAKE (via port shown in the pictures above)

Also, got in touch with Davis at FRSport, he said I will have to wait another 2 weeks until Supertech gets the 9.1 pistons so I just told him I'll take the 8.6:1, kinda sucks but it's all good.
EDIT: Well, he already got back to me, and said they'll be shipped tomorrow! Great customer service at FRSport.

[StryfeS13]

Pistons arrived today..went with 8.6:1 cause supertech was taking way too long for 9.1




teaser pic haha

[StryfeS13]

Well the block is in the machine shop.

Paid 200 for a 50RA resurface to the block and head, and a bore(89.5MM) and hone.

Will update with pics when it is done

[nightsauce]

where'd you pay that cheap for machine work? around here just 200 wont get ya much

[StryfeS13]

Doug Rylee's Performance Engines...in Fresno, CA

75.00 for block resurface
90.00 for bore/hone
35.00 for head resurface

Man, I'm nearing the completion of the engine..sorta..I can't wait haha.
Even though it won't be boosted for a while, I'll just be glad to have an engine that I know I can count on

[nightsauce]

Doug Rylee's Performance Engines...in Fresno, CA

75.00 for block resurface
90.00 for bore/hone
35.00 for head resurface

Man, I'm nearing the completion of the engine..sorta..I can't wait haha.
Even though it won't be boosted for a while, I'll just be glad to have an engine that I know I can count on

thanks for the info bud. I might just ship a motor out to them in the next few months

[StryfeS13]

Got my block and head back from the machine shop today!
resurfaced, bored .020" over, honed





Parts left to go...
-Springs/Retainers/Keepers
-OEM timing chain kit
-OEM front timing cover
-Turbo drain + cap
-Head Studs
-Gasket kit
-Nismo thermostat
-Clutch
-Flywheel resurface
-MLS Headgasket
-Freeze plugs...miscellaneous things

[nightsauce]

looks AWESOME!!! DO WANT!!!

[StryfeS13]

looks AWESOME!!! DO WANT!!!

hah

i got my engine on the engine stand..lol an all too familiar sight.


(holding up with my hand lol..just wanted to see what it looks like, :P)

[StryfeS13]

Was driving home from work today, only to see my temp gauge at the second highest notch. So I popped the hood once I got home...and sure enough, water pissing everywhere! Still gonna drive it...it's my DD, hopefully it doesnt blow! haha.

Anyway, I ordered more parts today. But mostly just oem parts i needed, like small things

-Block dowel pins from block to head
-Transmission dowel pins
-Oil pump rebuild components(gears, relief valve etc..) was only 50 bucks!
-EGR block off plate + gasket
-Front timing cover o-ring that goes to the block
-other crap..turbo drain, etcc


I need to get my front/rear main seals...they're on FRSport but the rear main seal description says "stops leaking from behind crank pulley" and I was just like uhh....what?
Does anyone know if this is a type or not?

And, does the Fel-Pro full engine gasket kit from AMS come with the front/rear main seals? Does it come with an oil strainer gasket? etc etc.

Answer: Don't worry about it! Get an ebay gasket kit, and replace the headgasket with a name brand one. Done.