StryfeS13's Build Thread..No more KA-T...5.3L LSx

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post


I've went through this thread and added an answer to every question I have asked. This is for reference, just in case anyone else needs help like I did.

There are a lot of dumb questions, and stuff in this thread. It has been a learning experience. Keep that in mind! :dblthumb:

Well, I've had my 240SX for over a year now, and progress has been slow but steady. I've been slowly working on it, with no cash flow, but now that I have a job, I can actually get some s*** done!

Anyway, I guess I'll post up pictures of since when I got it, until now.

This was the first day I had my car. It had these crazy looking Enkei's, and little rubberband tires. (Note the 4x4 mode)
Image
Image

It wasn't until further inspection that I noticed the whole front radiator support was bent, and I knew that'd eventually become a problem...
Image

And sure enough, it DID become a problem. A few weeks later I took my car up a curb, and the whole front support broke, dropping the whole front suspension. (YES, I did drive it home like this.)
Image
Image
Image

And that's not even half of the damage. I basically had to get a whole new front end to fix this...so I basically did...
Image
Image
Image

Then we welded the new radiator support on to the frame...
Image
Image

And that pretty much fixed that. But then my engine blew up. A valve dropped(WTF) and went through my #4 piston. And this was the aftermath.
Image

So I decided the only way I was going to get my car back on the street was to do a stock rebuild (lack of funds)
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Since the rebuild it's been a game of find and fix the problem...always something new. Right now it's leaking oil terribly, can't find out why. But I went out and bought a spare KA because I have plans of KA-T in mind. The person I bought it from said it was broken, but I haven't found anything that looks out of the ordinary so far. The funniest part of this, is that we put the KA in the back of my friends hatchback. Little did we know we wouldn't be able to get the b**** back out! I took apart the whole damn motor in the back of the hatch and we still couldnt get it out, so we got 3 people and eventually we pulled it out. (No engine crane, friends grandpa is using it) Anyway, here's the pics

The day we picked it up, KA-T slow project (got pulled over almost immediately lol)
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

My meshies!
Image

And this is pretty much how the car looks now...not really too concerned about the exterior. All I wanna do is go fast as hell.
Image
Image
Image

As for now...the car will sit. Because I can't find where the hell the oil is leaking from and I honestly don't really feel like trying to find it, lol, sick of problems.

I have 370 bucks, but I'm gonna save every last penny for my KA-T setup. Should have that in around 2 months.

Until then...
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:05 pm, edited 17 times in total.


User avatar
240sxjoe92
Posts: 207
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:18 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx hatch
Location: Fredrick MD

Post

Not bad...so why did you guys get pulled over after you got the motor?..Car is coming along great.

User avatar
hatedinthemind
Posts: 754
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:59 pm
Car: S13 Coupe, Subaru Forester
Location: Naples, FL

Post

looking good bro :dblthumb:

So now the car is black?

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

240sxjoe92 wrote:Not bad...so why did you guys get pulled over after you got the motor?..Car is coming along great.
Well, because none of our 240's pass smog so we all roll around with smog stickers. And since the motor was keeping the hatch up, the cop behind us couldnt see the window sticker....California. :tisk:
hatedinthemind wrote:looking good bro :dblthumb:

So now the car is black?
Yep, it's black. Will be painted professionally soon...just need to do some body repair. (dent in rear passenger quarter, need new driver fender, etc.)

User avatar
troskinatior
Posts: 1228
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:26 pm
Car: A Two Tone Piggy Coupe
Location: Jersey Shore Bish

Post

I know how you feel when every thing goes wrong.
This looks like its going to be a good build :bigthumb:

laxands13
Posts: 724
Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:32 pm
Car: 93 240sx Hatchback - Sold and missed
80 280zx - sold
83 Honda Civic Wagon - Current DD, soon to be CA16 powered
Location: Ga

Post

nice.. yeah california sounds awful except the beaches and everyone has medical pot.. anyway, yeah car looks good, meshies all around should look even better. if you end up putting the spare ka in, you should make the bay not black, so you can find an oil leak..

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

troskinatior wrote:I know how you feel when every thing goes wrong.
This looks like its going to be a good build :bigthumb:
Haha seriously it's one thing after another.
laxands13 wrote:nice.. yeah california sounds awful except the beaches and everyone has medical pot.. anyway, yeah car looks good, meshies all around should look even better. if you end up putting the spare ka in, you should make the bay not black, so you can find an oil leak..
California's alright..only thing that sucks is smog. I'll put the meshies on once I feel like taking the tires off them (hate doing that)

Well the thing with the oil leak is that it's leaking up...yeah I know, wtf?
So I've narrowed it down to either it's leaking behind the crank pulley and the crank pulley is flinging it around, or that my oil filter is not seating properly, because it never did this until I switched to a mobil 1 filter.

So I'm pretty much gonna rig it to work for a few months, which means getting a s*** load of jb weld-esque materials and putting it around the whole oil pan, lol.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Found the leak!
It's near the oil filter...like the housing or the oil temp sender (or whatever the plug is)

It leaks like a shower faucet after you turn it off...if that makes sense lol.

So I'm just gonna drive it anyway.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

LEAK FIXED! :gapteeth:

It was that damn thing I was talking about...luckily my spare motor had one on it. For those who want to know, the size is 1 1/16"...
But it still leaks from the front near the crank pulley...one of the oil pan bolts was loose..so i tried to tighten it but i realized it was loose because it was broken. So...

THIS
Image

Also, here's some more recent pics of my car and a few friends cars...(rustoleum paint FTMFW lol)
Image

our neighbors must hate us
Image

my friend chris's hatch...he just got it
Image

my friend greg's hatch
Image
Image

Anyway, I have 400 bucks burning a hole in my pocket..I need to buy something. Lol, start throwing up suggestions on s*** I should buy! I should be saving for my KA :P

Also, I have 4 stock injectors from a S13 KA24DE for sale...perfect condition.. :dblthumb:
Also have a 232 cam, a 248 cam, and a 232 intake cam

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Need advice. Im planning on going with a copper or metal headgasket and I read they have sealant issues. If I o-ring my block will they have any sealant issues?

Buying my forged internals next week.

Answer: You do not need to o-ring your block to run a MLS headgasket. You must have a very fine finish on the block/head, and spray the gasket with copper spray.
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
breadbox
Posts: 8549
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:09 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
89 Koop
84 720 4x4KC
Location: Va Bch

Post

Nice. I need to get some cash to buy internals.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Screw the metal headgasket...decided to go with just a felpro..motor wont see over 15 psi ever anyway. Can I oring the block or is it not even necessary?

Answer: Not necessary.
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Hot-tanked my head today at work...I get paid on the 1st of June, so a larger update is coming..

Image
Image

I'm still trying to decide on what internals to buy...looking for a relatively cheap route. Motor will only be a mild 280WHP... Can anyone help?

User avatar
Lonismos14
Posts: 1351
Joined: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:35 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1999 Chevy Hoe, 1996 Saturn Sl2

Post

Brian crower ftmfw! You would have to have the block and head decked to use the metal head gasket. :gapteeth:

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

So I'm in the process of welding a bung to my oil pan.
Just kinda curious..are the threads on this bung going to be the same as the threads on my turbo? I don't want things to get mixed up..

http://www.holley.com/967110ERL.asp

And I was going to cap it off for now, with this.

http://www.holley.com/992910ERL.asp

EDIT: Also..removed emissions today...got intake manifold all cleaned up.

Answer: Buy the parts listed above, and then run http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/98203/10002/-1, this screws onto your bung, and allows you to run a hose from the turbo to the pan.
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

What do you guys thinking about using stock rods with forged pistons/arp hardware/etc..?

Answer: If you're gonna build...then build. Get aftermarket.

I bought a crank w/ rods today for 40 bucks.thats why i ask.

also here are some pics of the head

Image
Image
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Lonismos14
Posts: 1351
Joined: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:35 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1999 Chevy Hoe, 1996 Saturn Sl2

Post

Why use stock rods when forged are only like 299. As webbie would say IF YOU GONNA DO THAT s*** DO IT BIG THEN. Arp hardware is a must. Go on youtube and look for jds performance he has a video on it.

User avatar
Crazyirish
Posts: 685
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:47 am
Car: Nothing noteworthy at the moment...

Post

ARP Rod bolts are only $60 for a ka. Of course once you boost, you are going to want more. Aftermarket rods are good insurance.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Well I figured that I might as well not cut any corners. It'll just make me end up spending more money in the future.

SOOOO, I bought these.

Image

I will update with pictures and a comparison to stock rods when they arrive. I just ordered them so they should be here in a few days.
I also bought one of those thermalnator intake manifold gaskets because I needed a gasket to port with..and it looked interesting.

Pictures and updates to come.

And my parts list...

Supertech 8/4/1 Pistons (open for suggestion)
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
OEM Oil Pan (still need info for turbo bung, help please)
OEM Front Timing Cover Assembly (Might reuse mine)
OEM Oil Pump Strainer (Might reuse mine)
Clutch that can withstand 300+ HP
Lightweight Flywheel (maybe..)
Cometic/Tomei Metal HG
Cheap things like freeze plugs/seals
Valves/Springs/Retainers (maybe, might just leave it stock and get kelford cams)

The motor will be N/A until I have the cash for turbo parts..and I also need to learn more about tuning/fuel management/etc, before I jump in.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Bump..need info for turbo drain and return...
I have searched but 1/2 the threads are from 2005 and the pics no longer work.

Was thinking about for the drain, using a -10AN male weld on fitting..and capping it off until I have cash for turbo.
And then for return I was think about using an oil filter sandwich adapter and running one line to the pressure sending unit and the other for return...

Any suggestions on what sandwich adapter to use? And any suggestions at all please.

Answer: See post above. This is so easy, and nothing to worry about.
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

My rods arrived today. :)

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

:werd:

And once again, here's my parts list open for suggestion.

Supertech 8/4/1 or 8/6/1 Pistons (open for suggestion)
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
OEM Oil Pan (still need info for turbo bung, help please)
OEM Front Timing Cover Assembly (Might reuse mine)
OEM Oil Pump Strainer (Might reuse mine)
Clutch that can withstand 300+ HP (SPEC or ACT..?)
Lightweight Flywheel (maybe..)
Cometic/Tomei Metal HG..might O-ring block..friend said it should seal fine with copper spray and arp studs.
Cheap things like freeze plugs/seals
Dual Valve Springs/Titanium Retainers/Keepers on stock valves w/ 3-angle valve job

User avatar
night240
Posts: 1080
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:07 am
Car: Nissan 95
Location: Irving (817)

Post

u got some nice goodies bro. hmmm I may think about going ka-t still debating... :rolleyes:

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

night240 wrote:u got some nice goodies bro. hmmm I may think about going ka-t still debating... :rolleyes:
I say go for it man. No point in swapping for less displacement... unless you plan on doing a RB25/26 or some hybrid swap, i'd say go KA-T. :dblthumb:

User avatar
night240
Posts: 1080
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:07 am
Car: Nissan 95
Location: Irving (817)

Post

StryfeS13 wrote:
night240 wrote:u got some nice goodies bro. hmmm I may think about going ka-t still debating... :rolleyes:
I say go for it man. No point in swapping for less displacement... unless you plan on doing a RB25/26 or some hybrid swap, i'd say go KA-T. :dblthumb:
I wanna to wait see ur numbers when your done. Hopefully that will make say ka-t. :biggrin: I'm diffidently don't wanna spend to much swap :facepalm: if it's reliable hell I will do this I just gotta have money & knowledge ahahah :mike

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

night240 wrote: I wanna to wait see ur numbers when your done. Hopefully that will make say ka-t. :biggrin: I'm diffidently don't wanna spend to much swap :facepalm: if it's reliable hell I will do this I just gotta have money & knowledge ahahah :mike
Well that might take a while haha. I'm not cutting any corners with this build..I'll be building it for months. And as far as money goes KA-T isn't all that cheap either. It seems as if you want a reliable yet high power motor you gotta be willing to dish out cash. :werd:

User avatar
night240
Posts: 1080
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:07 am
Car: Nissan 95
Location: Irving (817)

Post

StryfeS13 wrote:
night240 wrote: I wanna to wait see ur numbers when your done. Hopefully that will make say ka-t. :biggrin: I'm diffidently don't wanna spend to much swap :facepalm: if it's reliable hell I will do this I just gotta have money & knowledge ahahah :mike
Well that might take a while haha. I'm not cutting any corners with this build..I'll be building it for months. And as far as money goes KA-T isn't all that cheap either. It seems as if you want a reliable yet high power motor you gotta be willing to dish out cash. :werd:
I'm not looking for big hp ,but 300-350hp sounds abit good for me. :woot: I'm not gonna dish out cash, The cash needs to go somewhere else :laugh:

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Do you guys think it's necessary to invest in aftermarket valves, retainers, springs, or can I keep the stock ones and be fine? Or can I use aftermarket valves with stock retainers, springs, etc?

Will be ordering my main/rod bearings, arp head studs, and arp main studs soon.

Answer: If you're going all out sure...I've seen KA-T's hold 700WHP on stock valvetrain.
Last edited by StryfeS13 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
motoman399
Posts: 2982
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
Contact:

Post

whats your horsepower goal?

User avatar
StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

Post

Nothing more than 350WHP.

I was thinking of running standard size supertech exhaust and intake valves, and the supertech dual valve spring/retainer set. but damn, i don't wanna have to spend another 500 dollars!
I just wanna get this thing running, as quick as possible! Waiting sucks.

User avatar
night240
Posts: 1080
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:07 am
Car: Nissan 95
Location: Irving (817)

Post

StryfeS13 wrote:Nothing more than 350WHP.

I was thinking of running standard size supertech exhaust and intake valves, and the supertech dual valve spring/retainer set. but damn, i don't wanna have to spend another 500 dollars!
I just wanna get this thing running, as quick as possible! Waiting sucks.
just for the safe side I say spend another 500 bucks. :(


Return to “240sx General Discussion”