Oh those vac lines were pulled for a clear picture of the throttle's setup. The top passenger side vac is normally occupied by the FPR's vac line, and the other by the bov's vac line. There's also the large throttle hose that runs from the cold pipe to the throttle, and then the smaller hose that runs from the cold pipe to the iacv hose.
Nistech, can do with the pictures of the intake manifold. I'll get on that this afternoon. I'm not going to be able to swap out the ecm till later tonight since that's when my buddy's coming around with his sr.
Chris, yeah vac leaks suck. So far I've checked the compression, timing, ignition, fuel, etc, etc. As far as I know, there isn't a vac leak anymore before or after the throttle. I've already popped the iacv hose when it was running, capped it with my thumb and the motor died instantly. Before I redid the intake manifold, the motor would keep going when I capped the IACV's hose and would have the vac drop slowly till it died. If I were to screw down the IACV's adjuster all the way down would it kill the motor too? I think I'll give this a try since I've not too many other things left I can think of.
I think I will double check my compression, pop off the intake cam to close up the valves on the intake side and pressurize the intake side again. I'm hoping though that it'll be as simple as a shotty ecm but dunno. Had a buddy who had a shot ecm and it'd idle cold but die hot. Swapped the ecm's and car worked so hopefully it'll be something as simple as that (since I'm lazy lol).
Strange SR idle resurfaces
More pictures and a short clip of my idle when cold.
I took some extra pictures of the various components, like the IACV, and some of the other angles for the intake components so everything should give you a better idea of what I've been staring at for a little bit. I also included pics of the grounds I have at the intake manifold support also the pic of the smoke coming from my exhaust.
Movie cliphttp://youngpark.home.mindspring.com/idlecold.MPG
This time when I started up the car, the car idled like it should, then the idle went to poop. I was left in shock for a little bit thinking that my prayers had been answered and that my car would idle properly then the rough idle gradually sunk in and then the vac gauge started to jump from 15 in/Hg to 3 or 4 in/Hg and then my moment of sobbing in the corner.
I took some extra pictures of the various components, like the IACV, and some of the other angles for the intake components so everything should give you a better idea of what I've been staring at for a little bit. I also included pics of the grounds I have at the intake manifold support also the pic of the smoke coming from my exhaust.
Movie cliphttp://youngpark.home.mindspring.com/idlecold.MPG
This time when I started up the car, the car idled like it should, then the idle went to poop. I was left in shock for a little bit thinking that my prayers had been answered and that my car would idle properly then the rough idle gradually sunk in and then the vac gauge started to jump from 15 in/Hg to 3 or 4 in/Hg and then my moment of sobbing in the corner.
there were a couple things in the pics that I am curious about but didnt have time earlier to copy and highlight. but when you stated the car was suddenly fine for a period of time it says to me it is a computer control issue rather then a mechanical issue[vaccum leak]when you unplug your O2 it will take it out of closed loop ao it wont try to maintaine 14.7to1 fuel ratio it will use a predetermined fail safe. if it continues to do it then you will have to unplug the tps while its running and see if it will stop. that will throw it into base mode. [no air or timing compensation]
Alrighty, tested the ECM, that aint the culprit. So right now I've pulled the engine harness again, gonna check over all the wires at the ecu and make sure they're good. I've checked over my own connections that I made to make the wiring work for my car but I bought the harness from another guy so I dunno if he effed it up or if it was cool to begin with. So gonna double check that. I'll let you guys know what I find. BTW guys have fun at Formula D tomorrow!
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
- Contact:
Strange, I've got continuity from everything and resistances that are pretty low, like 0.2-0.3 ohms for most of the wires. There is something right next to the coolant temp sensor that I'm not too sure what it does. The part is called a thermal transmitter. The temp sensor and the transmitter both connect up into the a Y that connects into the engine harness.
yeah it was a single black wire. That was strange though. Not exactly sure what it does, but it sits right next to the coolant temp sensor. Oh got the car to idle properly today cold and hot. Yay! So yeah thank goodness this problem's taken care of. It was electrical from what I reckon since I pushed in every connector when I was testing for continuity and resistances across the wires and something probably was loose. *shakes fist* Thanks again guys, I seriously owe you guys one. Nistech, I think sometime this weekend I'll be heading to Davis to chill with my buddy but if you're somewhere around there I'll drop off like dunno a 6 pack or something of Fat Tire beer. lol
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
- Contact:
thermal transmitter is the temp sensor for the gauge in the cluster. the temp sensor we all know and love is the one for the ecm and everything. notice how the one for the ecm seems to be a better quality sensor. yeah, they dont want us to know how hot the motor is. my engine can hit 245+ without the stock gauge moving.