Replacing speakers in the M

[Darthswan]

Okay,

I've had it with the current 14 speaker system. I plan on replacing the front and rear door speakers. I'll leave the center and seat speakers in place. The front for door speakers, from what I have been able to find, are 6x9. Here are my questions:

1. Has anyone just put a 6.5" in the front door, instead of a 6x9? Thing about getting a component set for the front doors.
2. The 3.5" speaker, has anyone replaced it? If so, who did you power it?
3. Does anyone have an idea of the impedance and wattage output of the bose amplifier?

These are some initial questions i have. I am in the process of doing my initial research and making sure I have all of my bases covered.

Thank you in the advance.

KLS

[wideopn11]

I kind of miss the good ol days when upgrading car speakers was easy...

I haven't tried on the M37 but usually it's not a problem to put a 6.5" speaker in a 6x9 location. (actually almost anything is possible with the right amount of modification) but I'm sure you are trying to direct replace as painlessly as you can. Bose systems are the worst since they usually have little amps near all the speakers. Last time I replaced a Bose system I rewired the car top to bottom with new speaker wire, power wires for new amps and everything.
Check the AV section of the shop manual. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/infini ... m56-2.html

[Darthswan]

Yeah, this is a journey I'm heading on. This was the only reason I didn't want this car. Bose suck. I see so many challenges. I have no problems doing a rewire, it just the number of amplifiers it would take to power all the replaced speakers.

I'll check out that link

[deeselcyde]

Yeah, this is a journey I'm heading on. This was the only reason I didn't want this car. Bose suck. I see so many challenges. I have no problems doing a rewire, it just the number of amplifiers it would take to power all the replaced speakers.

I'll check out that link

Just curious, why do you think Bose sucks?

[Darthswan]

Yeah, this is a journey I'm heading on. This was the only reason I didn't want this car. Bose suck. I see so many challenges. I have no problems doing a rewire, it just the number of amplifiers it would take to power all the replaced speakers.

I'll check out that link

Just curious, why do you think Bose sucks?

All of my cars have had aftermarket stereos. To me, Bose lacks crisp highs and sufficient lows. I would rather have a base system that i could update later.

[Darthswan]

Bumping this. Anyone gone through the process?

[SwissCheeseHead]

Have you looked into just adding a 10" or 12" subwoofer? This way you could have the in-car speakers focus on mid to high and have the subwoofer take car of the lows. This would be much easier to do instead of replacing the speakers.

wideopn has it right. you will almost have to go to a complete aftermarket system if you want to do it right. (minus the HU)

Maybe just try the sub first to see how you like it, since I'm assuming you will be putting in a sub anyway.

[DoN_BLaZe34]

I agree with Swiss. When I had my M45 adding a sub along with changing the front tweeters that are inside the rearview mirror enclosures was enough to make me not rip out the entire system.

If you're determined to go the entire gutting route I believe there are a few guys with the older M's that have done it. I'll see if I can find the thread(s).

[Darthswan]

I agree with Swiss. When I had my M45 adding a sub along with changing the front tweeters that are inside the rearview mirror enclosures was enough to make me not rip out the entire system.

If you're determined to go the entire gutting route I believe there are a few guys with the older M's that have done it. I'll see if I can find the thread(s).

I guess I'll start with the sub. Anyone use AudioControl? Did you use the factory location or a separate box?

[SwissCheeseHead]

I agree with Swiss. When I had my M45 adding a sub along with changing the front tweeters that are inside the rearview mirror enclosures was enough to make me not rip out the entire system.

If you're determined to go the entire gutting route I believe there are a few guys with the older M's that have done it. I'll see if I can find the thread(s).

I guess I'll start with the sub. Anyone use AudioControl? Did you use the factory location or a separate box?

Here are a couple of threads that were started but neither of them never finished with details.
10-bose-subwoofer-replace-on-2012-m37-s-t542904.html
This second thread is linked in the first thread.
replacing-the-stock-10-sub-woofer-testi ... 36723.html

[coolchuck]

There are sooo many challenges with this system. Active noise cancelling, Voice control, voice directions from Nav.

I put a sub in the factory position. it wasn't an open air sub so it didnt really sound good. It didnt hit right on certain frequencies. Plus, it needs to be shallow mount to fit the factory space properly.
Next I put my sub in a box and reconnected the Bose speaker. Sounded great when I wasnt getting feedback from active noise cancelling, which was about &0% of the time. So I disconnected the Bose speaker again. Much more bass. My only gripe right now is lack of sound control. I think an Audiocontrol unit will take care of that.

[SwissCheeseHead]

There are sooo many challenges with this system. Active noise cancelling, Voice control, voice directions from Nav.

I put a sub in the factory position. it wasn't an open air sub so it didnt really sound good. It didnt hit right on certain frequencies. Plus, it needs to be shallow mount to fit the factory space properly.
Next I put my sub in a box and reconnected the Bose speaker. Sounded great when I wasnt getting feedback from active noise cancelling, which was about &0% of the time. So I disconnected the Bose speaker again. Much more bass. My only gripe right now is lack of sound control. I think an Audiocontrol unit will take care of that.

How did you run RCA wires to the sub amp? I know in the G, you had to tap into the signal out from the factory amp to get signal to an aftermarket amp.

[coolchuck]

My Alpine amp has speaker level inputs so I'm using them for now. I tapped the signal that goes to the 10inch speaker in the back. To use the RCAs, your amp has to have switchable voltage. Alot of the G guys are running JL Audio amps that only have RCA connections but have switchable voltage.

[Darthswan]

My Alpine amp has speaker level inputs so I'm using them for now. I tapped the signal that goes to the 10inch speaker in the back. To use the RCAs, your amp has to have switchable voltage. Alot of the G guys are running JL Audio amps that only have RCA connections but have switchable voltage.

People have been talking about the sound limit on the sub and it goes away the more you turn the radio up. Are you experience that same problem, or any problem, with running the signal off of the 10" sub line?

[SwissCheeseHead]

My Alpine amp has speaker level inputs so I'm using them for now. I tapped the signal that goes to the 10inch speaker in the back. To use the RCAs, your amp has to have switchable voltage. Alot of the G guys are running JL Audio amps that only have RCA connections but have switchable voltage.

I'm not super familiar with the M audio set up, but I did have BOSE in the G and I was able to run an 600W Alpine monoblock (old model) just by tapping an RCA wire from the signal out from the stock amp. As far as I know, you can't change the voltage on that amp.

I've debated throwing a 10" in my car but I don't want to lose any trunk space, and with my 1yr old in the back seat, I wouldn't be able to really turn in up half the time anyway.

[SwissCheeseHead]

My Alpine amp has speaker level inputs so I'm using them for now. I tapped the signal that goes to the 10inch speaker in the back. To use the RCAs, your amp has to have switchable voltage. Alot of the G guys are running JL Audio amps that only have RCA connections but have switchable voltage.

People have been talking about the sound limit on the sub and it goes away the more you turn the radio up. Are you experience that same problem, or any problem, with running the signal off of the 10" sub line?

Not sure about the M's audio set up but in my G, there were no issues turning up the sub to a point where it was ridiculously loud. The sub volume is usually modulated with the amp settings (gain output or whatever else the amp uses to control sound) in this kind of application. I would imagine the M's system would work similarly.

[coolchuck]

My Alpine amp has speaker level inputs so I'm using them for now. I tapped the signal that goes to the 10inch speaker in the back. To use the RCAs, your amp has to have switchable voltage. Alot of the G guys are running JL Audio amps that only have RCA connections but have switchable voltage.

I'm not super familiar with the M audio set up, but I did have BOSE in the G and I was able to run an 600W Alpine monoblock (old model) just by tapping an RCA wire from the signal out from the stock amp. As far as I know, you can't change the voltage on that amp.

I've debated throwing a 10" in my car but I don't want to lose any trunk space, and with my 1yr old in the back seat, I wouldn't be able to really turn in up half the time anyway.

I My understanding is the speaker signal will give you a high voltage signal, thats why I used the speaker connections instead of RCA.

I have my amp gain at about half and my bass seeting in the car at 2 down from the half way mark. I put it up to half when I'm looking for more thump.Thats the thing I mean about controls. In my truck I had a Pioneer H/U with an EQ and sub control. No EQ in the M. I may eventually add an Audiocontrol unit if I really decide to work on the sound.

I think the system does modulate the bass slightly but I'm still able to get a good thump at my volume levels. I dont turn it up super high.

[Ilya]

Okay...so, bumping this.

I want to try replacing just the sub in the back with a smaller one that fits...I need a 2Ohm one right? That's what the BOSE system uses? Also may look into doing just the door speakers as the OP did...also 2Ohm? Have we confirmed what size they are (6.5" or 6x9)? Also, the RMS of the stock amp? Thanks!

[SwissCheeseHead]

Okay...so, bumping this.

I want to try replacing just the sub in the back with a smaller one that fits...I need a 2Ohm one right? That's what the BOSE system uses? Also may look into doing just the door speakers as the OP did...also 2Ohm? Have we confirmed what size they are (6.5" or 6x9)? Also, the RMS of the stock amp? Thanks!

Have you tried looking in the FSM? There are a lot of techie bits in the FSM and I'm sure the resistance of a speaker is in there. Should be anyway.

[Ilya]

I did look in the FSM, but unless it's hidden somewhere in the schematic, I can't find it. Looked through the entire AV PDF. I don't read schematic or speak that language.

[Darthswan]

For now, I'm just adding a sub. I have been slowing going throw the process of putting all of the pieces together. I'm looking at this being a very integral part of the system.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/19173/produ ... UNUED.html

I've also narrowed it down a set components for the front doors. Still working on the midranges in the front door, but I'm still researching that one. And a set of component for the back doors and rear deck. I have an old JL Audio 15w6 that I will have redone, and have that installed.

I also looked in the FSM for the ohms of the speakers, and i didn't see it.

[Ilya]

Mind listing your 'shopping cart'?

[Darthswan]

Mind listing your 'shopping cart'?

This is my initial selection, things might change but I'm pretty sure this may be it.

Fronts
6.5" 60.9cs
1"
3" 32.9cf

Rear
6.5" 60.9cs
1"

Subwoofer
15" JL audio 15w6

Processor
AudioControl DQS

Amplifiers
Punch 240x4
Punch 200xi
Infinity 7541

[Ilya]

Ahh your not doing a thin-mount sub? I'm going to talk to someone at Crutchfield eventually about that and see what they recommend. I don't want to run any wires, etc. I just want to plug'n'play and squeeze out any performance I can get.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Ahh your not doing a thin-mount sub? I'm going to talk to someone at Crutchfield eventually about that and see what they recommend. I don't want to run any wires, etc. I just want to plug'n'play and squeeze out any performance I can get.

If you want to keep your complete factory set up and just add a subwoofer, you should be able to do so relatively easily. The only line you would have to run is the power wire from the battery to the aftermarket amp. Everything else should be accessible from your trunk.

Honestly, this is better than replacing the factory sub because having an aftermarket sub powered by the factory amp will not increase the volume or thump. You will need an aftermarket amp providing more power (than the factory amp can provide) to increase the thump.

When I get time. I can post what you need with schematics if anyone is interested.

[Ilya]

Ahh your not doing a thin-mount sub? I'm going to talk to someone at Crutchfield eventually about that and see what they recommend. I don't want to run any wires, etc. I just want to plug'n'play and squeeze out any performance I can get.

If you want to keep your complete factory set up and just add a subwoofer, you should be able to do so relatively easily. The only line you would have to run is the power wire from the battery to the aftermarket amp. Everything else should be accessible from your trunk.

Honestly, this is better than replacing the factory sub because having an aftermarket sub powered by the factory amp will not increase the volume or thump. You will need an aftermarket amp providing more power (than the factory amp can provide) to increase the thump.

When I get time. I can post what you need with schematics if anyone is interested.

I'm more concerned with the trunk space as I occasionally need it. Although, I could get one of those prebuilt JL boxes with the sub (Audiobox? might be the name) that I had in my old Maxima and just add a 1 channel amp to it. It wasn't relatively huge, but still wasn't small.

Any help with schematics, etc. that you could provide would be beneficial to the whole community.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Sure thing. Here is the factory BOSE amp harness located in the trunk (I don't know how to get to it, but it can't be too hard from removing panels)

Obligatory disclaimer: I am not responsible for destroying your car. Use at your own discretion

Note that this is for STUDIO SURROUND models with Nav. The FSM does not specify a different amp for the base audio so the pins should be the same.


Here are the pins where the amp signal and remote amp turn on signals are. The letters in parenthesis are the color of the wires.



What you want to do, is cut off one end of an RCA wire and splice the cut ends into pins 13 and 8. This is how you will get a signal to your amp. If splicing it in one way doesn't work, try switching the wires. Depending on the RCA wire, there are usually 2 layers of stranded wire in the Left channel and the same with the right. These are + and - lead in each channel. You'll want to take both + wires from both sides and splice them into 13 and both - wires from both sides and splice them into pin 8. See the image taken from Google.


Something like this will work:


You will then want to splice in your "REM" (remote) wire into pin 15 so that the amp will turn on when your ACC is on. You will then need to run a fused power wire from your battery to your amp and a ground wire from the trunk body (any bare metal will do) to your amp. Plug in your speaker wires and RCA wires and you should be golden.

I haven't done it on the M yet but I did this to my G and the aftermarket sub really fills in the low end. The factory sub does a great job of filling in the mids.

Let me know if I need to clarify.

[coolchuck]

You can put a shallow mount but most are tuned for a small box. The open air( infinite baffle ) subs are what should go in there but you would have to cut the trunk cover for it to fit. I'm still not sure how a shallow mount will sound. I agree tho, to really get some bass you need to power that sub.

I initially mounted my Polk MM1040in the sub space...sounded like crap. Its a low rise sub but made for a small airspace box.I put it in a small boxin the trunk and it sounds MUCH better.

[coolchuck]

Oh heres a copy of my post from the other forum with BOSE speaker info (I updated the links).....

I'm not sure if this has been posted before but...
I've been searching for some info in the Bose system in hopes of adding a real sub and amp. Well I came across this info on the system. Its on the BOSE UK site. Although they list it as Q70, I imagine everyting is the same for the M. I hope it helps anyone else looking to upgrade.


BOSE 5.1 system
https://www.bose.co.uk/GB/en/Images/Inf ... -66993.pdf

Bose 10 speaker
https://www.bose.co.uk/GB/en/Images/Sys ... -67256.pdf

speaker sizes converted to inches
8cm............3.15in...UPDATE a 3.5inch speaker should fit this space
2.5cm.........1in
15x23cm.....6x9in
16.5cm........6.5in
25.5cm........10in
5cm.............2in

[Ilya]

Thanks for the posts guys.

Would I need the audiocontrol unit linked above if I wanted to have the big sub on full low duty and disable bass (pretty much) to all the car speakers (turn down the bass value on the radio)? How would one accomplish that?

And this is the sub I had in my Maxima, packed a nice little punch:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136S110R33 ... tml?tp=112