Davgreg wrote:So has the quarum come to a concensus on if its possible to use 87 octane in the '35 or not???
Or should I come back in 4 more pages?
Davgreg.
THE FACTS: OK Davgreg, apart from the ongoing theoretical debate, here's what you need to actually know and understand, in somewhat layman's terms.
Your main concern here should be engine 'health' as opposed to simply getting by on cheaper gas. The issue for you is one of detonation, or preignition, characterized by a "pinging" sound when you put lower grade gas into your car than that prescribed by the manufacturer. If you use lower grade gas (i.e., 85, 87, 89), the problem is that you won't always hear the pinging, and when you do it's at it's worst, doing the most damage. The higher octanes have a higher flash, or ignition point. Essentially, the higher the octane, the more resistant it is to burn. This keeps the fuel/air mixture from igniting prematurely (before spark plug sparks) because of heat or pressure, and trying to drive/force the piston back down on power stroke before the connecting rod is past center of crankshaft journal. This causes a great deal of stress and added distorted harmonics to entire reciprocating assy, and can cause damage to the engine (especially the top end).
Let me explain-- imagine pedaling a tricycle at 30 rpm,.....your foot gets right to the top as you're moving clockwise...almost, then it's forced/ driven counterclockwise with all the power you were going to apply as you moved forward. That's what is happening inside your engine when you hear pinging and when you're lower grade gas is forcing the ECU to adjust the timing. At top dead center and a hair beyond, the piston is almost @ critical point for combustion, but the low grade mixture ignites too soon, thereby trying to drive piston counterclockwise, but it can't for several reasons (centrifugal force & momentum of reciprocating mass in motion). Using the bike example, the jolting action you feel when pedaling counterclockwise is akin to what happens when lower grade gas is in your car. Of course, >90% of those here will tell you that your ECU (computer) will retard the timing and thereby accommodate the misfire; however, prolonged retardation may not be what is best for engine "health."
Keep in mind that the ECU's retardation of timing does not occur in a microsecond, but may take a bit longer-- this variance is where engine damage occurs also.
I know my analogy isn't perfect and that many will surely take me to task for not offering brilliant specifics, analysis or maybe b/c my engineering is off by a centimeter, but for your purposes (and to maintain a certain level of simplicity), stick to the recommended grade as specified in the manual (engine health rests on the recommendations), irrespective of the geniuses and MENSA members arguing thermal dynamics and classical mechanics. Most of us stick to the manual's recommendations-- and those of us that in previous lives rebuilt many an engine tend to rely very little on the theoretical and applied physics and more so on the actual workings of the engine.
Hopefully this helps and good luck!
Modified by W661335PF at 6:21 PM 2/12/2008