



Not exactly minimize, but I have a LOT already. I just don't want a greater list to track down.evildky wrote:so the short answer is you wanted rwd and a 6 speednothing wrong with that, but if you wanted to minimize fab you wouldn't be building a tube frame front
and the rb oil pan should be flat att eh bottom as well indicating where level is, and I believe you'll find taht the stock rb engine mounts should be level to one another where the would meet the crossmsmber
on a side note,the RB is an evolution of the L6 and I never really notived they did slant it in the opposite direction, this makes for weight distribution problems on a swapped S30
and for sh*ts and giggles, do you have a vg30DE(TT) rod laying aroudn to picture next to the RB rods? the VG uses dainty rods, the RB like the L6 has much beefier rods, obviously your aftermarkets are slimmed down a bit





Sure, PURE "response" NA VK56 is my thinking. Heard it sounds like an old WWII plane.. un-resonated..tg wrote:well, RB's can make it past 600whp without much sweat... this one will likely be up around there. A VK56 build would be absolutely mental though. Next build, okay f8?
OK TG, school me the old school know-not-enough...what up with this VK56?tg wrote:well, RB's can make it past 600whp without much sweat... this one will likely be up around there. A VK56 build would be absolutely mental though. Next build, okay f8?
I'm with you on the RB25, and my tuner says my ECU and other stuff can be used which is a bonus.Rare_f8 wrote:Sounds like your idea is well grounded. It's always nice to have a helping hand for your ambitions. In the arena of things, if you are looking at an RB in the sub 500 and 600. RB25 is a winner in cost and you can even reach those powers in stock trim.
Yeah I always wondered why the VG suffered, while the RB and 2JZ are practically dyno queens. I been working on the idea that the VG doesn't get the right airflow.
Yup, pretty bad a** engine.Rare_f8 wrote:The GT1 GTR uses the VK56 and it's 600 hp 479 ft-lb of torque...all NA power...

but they wouldn't know a thing about torquecar nut wrote:NA power is a thing of beauty. Anyone who's driven an AP1 S2000 knows what I mean lol.
Yeah I been working on the anti-gavitons, but they are proving to be unstable and require lots of energy to keep them active.BigTDogg (MA) wrote:Back to the Future hoverboard anyone?
Nice project
That was my primary concern, I figured if I allow some free play with the bolt holes, I can get the crank and input shaft to agree with each other.evildky wrote:by the way when you made your trand plate template, did you measure for runout? wouldn't want to tank the rear main over an alignment issuecar nut wrote:NA power is a thing of beauty. Anyone who's driven an AP1 S2000 knows what I mean lol.
BigTDogg (MA) wrote:Back to the Future hoverboard anyone?
Nice project

so you didn't actually measure end shaft runout? I urge you to dial this in before you lock everthing down, just getitng it to "agree" is nt good enough, you can buy offset dowl pins sized for popular domestic transmissions, you can size your dowl pin holes to use these allowing you to lock it down in the correct position, and lets nto forget about a flywheel spacer that'll need to be hubcentric and fit the pilot bearingRare_f8 wrote: That was my primary concern, I figured if I allow some free play with the bolt holes, I can get the crank and input shaft to agree with each other.
In today's news:
Sent the template into a machinist. Going to have the outline cut out of 1/2" steel plate. I should have something by friday or monday by quote.
In the mean time, going to be soon where the classified ads for jobs and I are going to go though an assessment. My two week break from college is near to a end.
Believe me I been considering about run out and crank alignment. There will be a minor play in the plate to allow for adjustments, at some cases I might end up having to replace the transmission, so I need a degree of adjustment freedom. Nothing is final until I do the final assembly of the engine, that's when I lock this in.evildky wrote: so you didn't actually measure end shaft runout? I urge you to dial this in before you lock everthing down, just getitng it to "agree" is nt good enough, you can buy offset dowl pins sized for popular domestic transmissions, you can size your dowl pin holes to use these allowing you to lock it down in the correct position, and lets nto forget about a flywheel spacer that'll need to be hubcentric and fit the pilot bearing
I appreciate your input as well. Please always feel the need to voice your concern with me, I always benefit from having other inputs, it brings me to reason my choices better.Rare_f8 wrote: Once the adapter is made you now run into the problem that the input shaft no longer sits inside the pilot bearing. So a steel spacer will need to be made with a it's own pilot bearing. This is where it might come beneficial once I get pass the 6 bolt rb26 crank and 8 bolt 350z flywheel dilemma, I would be able to bolt on the 350z flywheel goodies, and use it's starter. And just to be a sneaky bastard, the 350z uses a crank angle sensor at the flywheel. And since I will be running a standalone ECU, it's more likely to fly.
THANKS TG!tg wrote:here is why the vk56 is interesting in my eyes...
decent early-90's domestic 3.0L v6 (think 1990 chevy baretta GT) would put out about 160hp, started blowing their internals apart at around 7000rpm, and didn't usually make it to 200k.
compare that with the vg30de. 222 hp, 7000k all day.
Now, the reason behind MOST of this is engine clearances and build tolerances. The vg30 was made to (at that time) very very tight engine tolerances. It made an LT1 fresh off the assembly line in 1992 look like a sloppy 'did it in my neighbors garage' rebuilt engine. The newer VQ and VK engines make this even more noticeable (although most domestic engines today have caught up).
The old 'no replacement for displacement' holds true, although usually import engines had to make up for displacement with turbo's and very high RPM engines and such. the latter requiring very stringent build practices and tolerances. Basically they had to make better, smaller displacement engines.
The VK is basically the Nissan version of a small block 350. And nissan's 3.0L was putting out almost as much as chevy's 5.7L of the same era. Built to much more stringent tolerances than the vg, and insane reliability and power potential (refer to rare's summary of components), this thing is a tuner's v8. Nissan uses a smaller version of it (4.5L) that makes a 'de-tuned' 500hp and can hit 10,000rpm. They used it in the JGTC 350z and I think they still are in the GT-R. A naturally-aspirated 500hp, 8000rpm nissan v8 with almost 6L of displacement.... well, you get the idea. mmm. Now I'm all hot and bothered.

Rare_f8 wrote:Talked with the machinist, he will have the outline cut out done for me tomorrow. He showed me the work done so far, looking good.
Also played with the goodies today. Was trying to figure out which bore gauge I need to get. Looks like a 50-100mm. Also just put the piston rod combo together to see it's sexiness.