Project: Building a SR20DET Head to rev 9000K+ [PICS HEAVY]

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
VitaminT
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Great write up. I have the snap-on valve spring compressor and done head disasembly a few times on different motors just like the above write up.


nzmoman
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you are definately one of my top 5 favorites on this forum.

nzmoman
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ILikeMy240sx wrote:Im not touching the bottom end until something goes boom haha. I want to find the limit of the stock bottom end before I go forged internals. I do have a fresh stock rebuild tho... only 5k miles ago.

When I do go forged internals, I should probably have spare trannies laying around for the amt of power I want to make haha.

BTW, My Tomei Sold Lifters and Shims have been shipped YAY!!!!!

Modified by ILikeMy240sx at 11:56 PM 1/21/2007
Arent you riskin head damage also if something in the block goes. If a piston ring snaps or something I am pretty sure it can damage your head. Also, are you going to have to upgrade the timing chain, and crank? I know there is actually a test rate on those lower component that are not internal, and I am curious how they hold up to high revs. It seems that this could turn out to be twice as expensive if something in the bottom end gives out.

ILikeMy240sx
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I know of many people that rev that chit out of their motor with solid lifters with stock bottom end... They seem to be holding up fine. Now if I start to rev to 10k rpm on a regular basis for somereason then... Obviously thats not good.

spider_slayer
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S13 240SX

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ILikeMy240sx wrote:When I do go forged internals, I should probably have spare trannies laying around for the amt of power I want to make haha.
z32 transmission swap ftw??

but if the crank was balanced when you rebuilt then for all intents and purpose's the motor should be fine.

also, would you start a new thread before posting any more pics? its hurting the intrawebs

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karmakaze
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i just want to say thanks! this is going to be very helpful to me as I am doing the same thing right now, just without the solid kit.

ILikeMy240sx
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spider_slayer wrote:also, would you start a new thread before posting any more pics? its hurting the intrawebs
I dont follow... Do the pics load up slowly or something?

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otterman
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They upload fine to me. I think once your done, this all needs to be put into another thread with out all the chatting between posts so its easier to read though.

ILikeMy240sx
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Just finished taking all the stuff out of the head. Now I need to take this to the machine shop and get it hot tanked and decked.



Ok and as promised earlier, I will show you how to bleed your lifters. I obviously do not need to do this but for those of you idiots still sticking to HLAs can do this.

You need a container that will hold this amount of oil. The lifter needs to be completely submerged into oil. You also need something skinny to poke through the hole on the top. I chose one of the allen wrenches that I had. It is long enough and provides a nice L so I can grab on to it easier.

Submerge the lifter into the container filled with oil and keep the lifter upright. Now you see why it's nice to have a container thats narrow because it keeps the lifters upright.

Now using the allen wrench, "jerk it off" like shown in the video. Do this many many times until you see absolutely no bubbles coming out of the lifter.http://www-personal.umich.edu/...9.avi

Take it out and KEEP IT UPRIGHT! You shouldnt be able to push on it anmore. I suggest you install it on your head immediately to prevent any air from going into it again.

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S13FASTBACKSR
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Car: '92 Fastback SR powered

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taesoo obviously that is bleeding a hla correct? why are you doing that if you are going to solid lifters? also the question that has been on my mind so much over these past couple of days because you didnt answer my email yet (just messin with you buddy ) is once you measure your new shims for the tomei solid lifters, and they wear out over the next few months..do you just re-order those same sizes..or do you have to remeasure again every single time you need new shims? i have been thinking heavily on this subject and i am about 100% sure that you do not have to remeasure everytime

ILikeMy240sx
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Ok my post has been edited. I obviously do not need to do this.. In fact, I could make wind chimes out of those if I wanted.... Im just showing it to people because I know 90% of you will not go solid lifters...

Anyways, to answer your question.. Once you install everything and check after 4k miles or so, say the clearance gap is now .005" instead of .006" you wanted. Then you need to order shims that are THINNER than the one you ORGINALLY put. It's not the valve shim that wears out but its the valve seats that wear out. You do not need to do this do HLA system because obviously, HLA is adjusted by oil pressure and does this adjusting for you.

You pretty much check the clearance on every rocker arm to make sure everything is still .006". If anything is out of spec then you need to order properly sized shims.

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efrain240sx
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are you suppose to feel wired when jerking off the lifters JK, these is a very good write up and its helping me out alot. good job

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sr20goofus
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ILikeMy240sx wrote:Ok my post has been edited. I obviously do not need to do this.. In fact, I could make wind chimes out of those if I wanted.... Im just showing it to people because I know 90% of you will not go solid lifters...

Anyways, to answer your question.. Once you install everything and check after 4k miles or so, say the clearance gap is now .005" instead of .006" you wanted. Then you need to order shims that are THINNER than the one you ORGINALLY put. It's not the valve shim that wears out but its the valve seats that wear out. You do not need to do this do HLA system because obviously, HLA is adjusted by oil pressure and does this adjusting for you.

You pretty much check the clearance on every rocker arm to make sure everything is still .006". If anything is out of spec then you need to order properly sized shims.
i believe the amount of people never going solid lifters is more in the 95-98% range. not to nitpick or be a di*k, just getting up in to those high rpms and see gains and afford all the neccessary parts is a tough job.

The build look sliek its going great, afetr reading thorugh the begining i was hoping you would say your going to hot-tank the head, i was very worried, mine was hottanked last year when i did my rebuild and everythign still looks like new under the valve cover.

Sounds like a bit of a pain to continuously reshim the valves....a bit tedious in my opinion, i love the idea of solid lifters, i almost went with a set of MBV lifters awhile back, but we had our differences and i didnt want to deal with Matt anymore.

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otterman
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Do you only need solid lifters if you're planning on revving really high (like ILikeMy240sx plans to) or does high hp engines need them?

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S13FASTBACKSR
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you dont need solid lifters whether you have a high hp engine or not..solid lifters is just if you want to rev higher

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otterman
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alrighty thanks. that's what I figured.

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S13FASTBACKSR
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I have been searching around about solid lifters for sometime now and they seem like such a bad @ss upgrade..the only thing that turns me off is reshimming every so often

ILikeMy240sx
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Well if your motor had the breathing capabilites (intake, turbo, cams, exhaust, etc) at such high RPM then yes of course you will gain HP from it. So, its for both HP and reving capabilties.

Also, when I first got into the idea of solid lifters, I mostly got it for its reliability. Yes, you do need to shim every now and then but it will never collapse like HLAs do and throw rocker arms and such. The chances of those HLAs failing increases when you go with aftermarket cams like BC cams that has a HUGE lift characteristics like 12.05mm... Thats alot. I really did not want to go fishing in my head with a magnet. So for me reliability was the first goal and performance was the second.

Sounds like alot of people do not get along with Matt very well lol... Ii personally have not had any problems with him tho. He seems like a nice guy.

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S13FASTBACKSR
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oh no i know that you will see nice hp gains from this mod..i didnt meant that..i meant that this mod is not needed whether or not you have a high hp engine already or not..its for high reving purposes and yes you will see nice hp gains and as you just mentioned reliability

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sr20goofus
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ILikeMy240sx wrote:Sounds like alot of people do not get along with Matt very well lol... Ii personally have not had any problems with him tho. He seems like a nice guy.
i backed out on an order awhile back because i had a financial situation between school and living, and he wasnt very understanding about it and flipped out a bit....he was so easy to judge me so i just backed out all togeather and didnt wanna deal with him anymore.

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jubee
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sorry to hear that man. but from what i have learned form matt is he holds nothing back either you like him or you don't.

I will be getting my lifters from him some time next week wooo hooo. yeah i am def gonna see some gains just by adding the solid lifters. if anyone has seen any of his dyno sheets he is making 255rwhp and 203 ft/lbs tq on just 6 psi. mods are s14 sr t28, hks step 2 cams, z32 maf, comp valve spring retainers, and rom tune. i would say there was def a gain there when running less boost.

On a added note lifters are not just for wanting to rev higher, it also helps eliminate snapping rockers and eliminating that pos Hydro lifters.
Modified by jubee at 10:50 PM 1/25/2007

ILikeMy240sx
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Ok just got my head back from the machine shop today.

I love engine parts that look so clean.... aaaa this is teh sex.

nicely decked.

Total cost at the machine shop $45. Totally worth every little penny.

Some carbon material that needs to be scraped off but ports are nice and clean.

Oh and TOMEI SOLID LIFTERS BISHESSSSSSS

I am as happy and excited as a little kid seeing boobies for the first time. Aaa the joy of cars.

nzmoman
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just want you to know that from now on I will call you Daddy.

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mrzabala
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Sabot
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Nice job ...and hurry with the rest..lol

ILikeMy240sx
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Ok I will go over on how to properly install valve stem seals.

Valve stem seals. As I mentioned before, Intake is from a Sentra SR20 and exhaust side is from any DOHC KA.

Find a socket that will fit over the valve stem seal like shown. I found 11mm to work the best.

Also get a grease can like this one to help you aide in oiling everything. Its certainly not required but nice to have.

Start with oiling the part of the cylinder head that the seal will go on.

Now oil the inside of the seal and the edges.

Put it loosely like shown and try to get it to seat as straight as possible.

Now using the socket and extension, you can either tap it with a rubber mallet or push it with your hand. When using a hammer, do that until you feel a thud and the seal will not go on anymore. When you push, you will feel the seal stop moving.

And you are done with one seal. Now you have 15 more to do....

All valve seals done

ILikeMy240sx
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Finished putting valve springs in.

I found that putting assy lube on the stem of the valve like shown helps the keepers stick on the stem much better for easier installation.

All of them in with solid lifters.

This looks so sweet. Solid unit... no more collapsed HLAs for me.

Close up of Valve springs/retainers and solid lifters.

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2_Liter_Turbo
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Very Nice write-up. I've been thinking of doing this to my SR as well. I just can't decide which GT2871R I want to go with, lol. Keep it up!

silviasliderNJ
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Car: 93 240sx coupe

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AMAZING WRITE UP!!! this is the same setup i have sitting waiting to be put in my sr when i have time, it great to see someone do the same setup an show step by step.... two thumbs up

Side note how does it runs with the topend in?

ILikeMy240sx
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Its not in yet... Im still measuring the proper shim sizes for the solid lifters... I will have that write up pretty soon.


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