260/260 for sure. I think 270/270 cams focus way too much up top and doesnt give much mid range torque.

Now Im a firm believer in having very board powerband instead of the typical drag car high end power.

Well that's good that the damage wasn't extensive. So wat was your complete set up with the solid lifters? What kind of numbers did you put down. What do you think boost and the power curve would be like for either a 62-1 or gt35r?

with either gt30 or gt35 series turbos, you should see a very flat torque curve from around 4500~5000 all the way to whenever you feel like stopping.

For me, my torque curve started dropping off beyond 6500 RPM even with 270/270 because my stock exhaust mani and .64a/r ex housing can't keep up... I was expecting the cams would help the torque curve stay flat but Ive learned that your turbo being able to flow up high is just as important.

I put out 360 RWHP. I forgot the torque number but it was low 300s.

I think with better flowing ex mani and bigger ex housing, I can get pretty darn close to 400 RWHP

OMG, what happened to your pictures?I am joining the discussion late and had been planning on building my head. Now your pictures are dead, nooo....

Wow, I haven't seen this thread in forever, whats up with the pictures not working, this was an awesome head building write up, now its lost much of its usefulness.

fixed

Geno750 wrote:No, rocker arm stoppers + hla's = broken rocker arms, see below.

those greddy RAS are likely the reason your rocker arm broke instead of it just poping free and sitting intact in the head.

I'm joining this a bit late to make a comment against this argument. But I feel that the RASes are not the problem with snapping rocker arms. The issue lies in the valve float itself. The issue is not that the rockers jump off the valves, but the fact that the valves stay open longer than they're supposed to due to 1) a higher lift cam; or 2) revving too high.

The weak link in the SR head is, I believe, the valve springs. I've seen quite a few destroyed heads from upgrading the cams, but not the valve springs. What ends up happening is the spring isn't strong enough to return the valve to closed fast enough before the cam comes along for its next pass. If the valve is still closing, which means the rocker is still moving towards the cam, then you've affectively increased the speed at which the cam makes contact with the rocker. Kind of like how two cars that hit each other head on in motion do more damage to than a car hitting a stationary car. Stronger springs and solid pivots fix slow to respond valve issues.

The cam is definitely stronger than the rocker, so the rocker looses the battle and breaks. It's not a matter of the rocker jumping up and hitting the RAS. The RAS doesn't have the force or the mass to break a rocker. Rockers break from being hit hard by a cam.

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I just wanna reiterate how wonderful this thread is and I also wanna ask what might be a stupid question but hopefully it will help other people who aren't using solid lifters. I just recently finished peicing my head back together with the help of a very good friend of mine who was previously a master mitsubishi tech. I went with brian crower springs/retainers and b/c 264/264 cams. I had a machine shop clean the head and put in the springs/retainers as well as reseat the valves. Now I'm reusing the stock hydralic lifters which were in very good shape from what I was told by my friend he also assured me that we were putting everything back from where it came which included the valve shims. With that in mind I shouldn't have to reshim anything should I? I spoke with someone from enjuku racing about my build and he said I need to make sure I reshim but then informed me that the tool to do it is impossible to get your hands on. Now I already have everything together and my mechanic friend as well as a local machine shop and a few others have said there is no need to reshim when your using hydralic lifters so I'm thinking the guy at enjuku thought I had solid lifters. Can somebody please clerify the only thing I changed in my head were the springs/retainers and cams with greddy RAS everything else is stock and I'm only looking to rev to 8k. I trust my friend knows what he's doing but sometimes I wonder because he can never give you a serious answer to anything probably because it's all elementary to him. One thing I do know is that he didn't put the lifters back where they came from cuz he put them all in the same bottle of oil but my understanding is lifters are lifters and really don't have any certain place they have to go. I apologize for my noobness but I want this done right and I wanna make sure this mitsubishi driving madman thats helping me is doing it the nissan way.

EXCELLENT build thread. in CAPS. I was wondering why you decided to go with the tomei cams instead of the BC's? I plan on using this guide as a reference when I build my head soon (summer likely). I dont really understand what the deal is with using solid cams with solid lifters. I couldnt find anywhere that specified whether the BC cams are solid or lash-type. I know the BC's are cheaper so that would be ideal for me, but if they're not up to par with the other parts im going to install I'll just have to spend the extra $100 or so. Let me know what my best bet is. Thanks

-Josh

okay so huge problem. does anyone know how to find out where the cam caps are suppose to go and the order.. i went cheap bought a buddies torn apart engine. the head was apart as well. caps are in a bag no markings except the ones from the factory but they have like the same on a couple. really confused how to get back into order

hey can you tell me how you cut your rockers??? my local machinist was a little confused. thanks

I used a table belt sander. I set the table at the needed degree to get the angle that I scribed and went to town. Worked perfectly. I then used a polish wheel to smooth it all out, and sent the whole set to WPC for their treatment process.

Fyi, I have had the solid lifter conversion for 4 years now, checked everything before this race season and every thing was golden. I never ground the ends of the rocker off..... I argued this with my machinist and he assured me that if anything happened they would take care of it...... Still perfect.

Cartoonlips, you will have to look at the wear pattern on the caps and the head and match them. This may sound difficult but for me, each one had a very specific wear patten that didn't match anywhere else.

compactfean wrote:Fyi, I have had the solid lifter conversion for 4 years now, checked everything before this race season and every thing was golden. I never ground the ends of the rocker off..... I argued this with my machinist and he assured me that if anything happened they would take care of it...... Still perfect.

so your saying you just installed the lifters, tomei solids and just put the rockers back in with no cutting or alteration and its been fine? why does anyone cut them then?

Its supposed to be done because supposedly, it will cause wear on the shims from ”digging” into them, causing a looser gap. Yes you are correct, installed lifters, used test shims to find size, then hand filed old shims to size and haven't had any issues. I also run a 2 step launch control, which I've heard people have issues with (not sure if they.are hydro out solid though) and don't have any issues with that either.