Picked up my s13 blacktop today!!

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callmeweezy724
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the dampener bleeder screw broke off inside it..so im tryin to take out the dampener now..but the lines going into it are a b*tch to get loose..


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240sxHitman
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Good progess on your swap. I finished mine alil ova a week ago. when your done thats just one more person to meet up with once we get this LI meets going

btw i have the same greddy cooler!

duffman1278
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So what ended up being wrong with the electrical?

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callmeweezy724
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240sxHitman wrote:Good progess on your swap. I finished mine alil ova a week ago. when your done thats just one more person to meet up with once we get this LI meets going

btw i have the same greddy cooler!
word thats cool..how u like it? any problems with it?

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callmeweezy724
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duffman1278 wrote:So what ended up being wrong with the electrical?
i had the red ecu back up wire spliced in with the black/red power wire so it was staying constant..its fixed now tho!

zrowkewl
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is that true what you said about the clutch line? if its not hooked up it wont start??? because im in a dilemma now as well.i have everything connected.accessories work fine,but it doesnt even turn over when i turn key.could it be the clutch?? because my slave hose isnt even hooked up.lmk asap...and for you guys in long island are you really gonna meet up?? i wouldnt mind takin a trip with the new motor....gotta wear it in a bit.

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callmeweezy724
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Im guessing its true b/c a 5 spd wont start without the clutch engaged..and if the slave cylinder isnt bled that means there's air in the line and when you press it theres not enough pressure to engage the clutch.. someone correct me if im wrong. I hope im right tho or else idk y my engine wouldnt be turning over haha..

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godzilla34
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NONONONONO!!!! slave sylender is not your starting problem!!! if the car is in neutral it will start non the less. the only reason why it wouldnt start is if the little clutch sensor isnt being fully engauged. there is a little sensor that tells the computer that the car is out of gear (ie neutral) it protects you from having it in gear and trying to start it, the car will just go forward!!! you can either bypass the sensor by cutting the wires in the back and splicing them togeather or ??? i dono???? friend of mine had the same problem he would try to start the car and it wouldnt start wouldnt even crank. so i got down by the pedal and found that the sensor wasnt fully being engauged, put my finger on the sensor and had the car out of gear and it fired right up. so i wired the two togeather and we never have a problem with it..... just make sure the car is out of gear when you do this tho it will move forward and it wont be pretty if you hit something...... that happened to....... had to replace the front bumper cuz he hit a post and split his fiberglass in half.... not fun but on a lighter note hope it helps =) any q's hit me up. ill try to help out as much as i can.

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callmeweezy724
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I was having trouble with my Sr harness so i ditched it and used my sohc ka harness..after i did that i got the motor to crank...then 10 minutes later i tried to crank it again and no go

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godzilla34
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did you splice the wires for the sr to ka harness? thats wierd that it wouldnt work. could it be the lower harness for the trans? alot of times the lower harness is a bit messed up, is the ecu buzzing or making a wierd sound or the tach going haywire when you go to crank it? sometimes theres a ground wire that is missing and causes the car to act funny. all you really need to crank the car is the lower harness and a few plugs from the motor harness.... but it wont fire itll crank till the battery gives out or your starter. but you have to have the wires wired correctly to fire it up. check your lower harness might be your kicker

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callmeweezy724
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nah i actually got it. It was my alternator, it was no good. Now i got it crankin but i dont think im gettin spark. I didnt get an ignitor with my motor set so i bought one from the junkyard for $40 bucks..but i dont think it works and i dont have a way to test it. But i kno someone with a q45 that starts up and there not using it so im gonna buy the ignitor from that off of them and hope fully that works..

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s13_silvia_redtop
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callmeweezy724 wrote:
i had the red ecu back up wire spliced in with the black/red power wire so it was staying constant..its fixed now tho!
sorry to bring this us again but im having the same problem right now. the accesories stay on with the key out of the ignition. so my question is; where did you accedently splice those wires together? was it by the ECU or in the engine bay? and do you knwo the pinout for those wires thanks so much man!

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callmeweezy724
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its the red wire in the engine bay. Its where the engine harness connects near the battery tray.

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xpicer
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hey i just realized you are local . listen i can give you a hand if you need i got the same set up , only mine is snow white. If you want you can call me or email me [email protected] 914 3847035 , i will b glad to help a sr friend

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callmeweezy724
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word thanks for the offer im kinda almost done right now but im havin trouble getting spark..i think its the ignitor i got i picked it up from the junkyard..do u kno if i have to have it grounded to the chasis in order to get it to work properly? i was thinking thats the problem..if not then i kno someone with a q45 that starts and they're wiling to sell me theres..

zrowkewl
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you didnt get an ignitor with your swap? call engine depot and get one from them.also..i finally got my sr started,only thing is i jumped it (ghetto,i know) but i really wanted to start it.sounds awesome.no knock or tapping.only thing is it wont do anything with the key.i even replaced my clutch interlock relay...nothing.someone else mentioned the little button by the clutch pedal.my button looks fully intact along with the connector connected to it.idk what else to do.if the key turns on the fuel pump,acc. etc. than its not a bad lock cylinder right? ahhh i just wanna start it with the key.

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callmeweezy724
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nah they told me they didnt have an ignitor after i bought it. I was like its suppose to come with everything they were like naah the website doesnt say that..**** them. Yer lucky u got yer started i want to get mine started so bad. Im not gettin spark so i guess the ignitor i picked up from the junkyard is no good. I jus ordered some off of ebay I jus have to wait for them to get shipped and hopefully that works im not gettin spark to any cylinders..but try using your ka lower transmission harness thats what i used. Check your wiring also...

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callmeweezy724
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ok i didnt have the tools ti drill the holes for my intercooler so i paid some guy i kno $40 and he came and did it for me. Heres some pics of the intercooler piping and some work i did..My question is..what should i put to block off the hole on the intercooler piping thats by the driver side tire? whaat did you guys use?

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callmeweezy724
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heres some more pics i put the radiator and e-fans in..heres some pics of my vaccum lines can some one tell me if there right bc im not too sure so if you help me out that would be great bc i have one thats unused what should i do with that? And i kno my throttle cable bracket isnt attached all the way. My blacktop didnt come with one so i took my sohc one and im goin to take it to work modify it with at cutting wheel..heres some shots of my turbo timer, ebc, and gauges..

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callmeweezy724
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ok i seem to be having start trouble i thought it was my ignitor bc i wasnt gettin spark..but i ordered some that were guaranteed to work. I installed it and i still get no spark. Would my timing make it not get spark? how do i check my coil packs?anyone kno where this plug goes..or is it unused?
Modified by callmeweezy724 at 10:53 AM 7/2/2008

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240life
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I just did a black top swap in my 89 iirc that plug is un-used. Run a continuity test on your igniters and then from your harness to your ecu. The FSM has pretty easy to follow instructions, just get the s13 pinout for your ECU. Good luck As far as testing your coils you will need a multimeter to first find out if your harness is recieving battery voltage, if they do check to make sure your intake ground and head ground have clean connections for a proper ground. I doubt all four of your coils are junk, you probably forgot or didn't get a good connection at the main harness. Make sure you wire the main power wire BLACK/RED, your O2 wire BROWN and your ingnition wires there are two BLUE/RED together those two BLUE/RED wires send spark from your ignitor to your coils and are found on the SR engine harness side.


Modified by 240life at 4:27 PM 7/2/2008

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callmeweezy724
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i heard about doing a continuity test..the only thing is i dont kno how? lol im suppose to use an ohm meter correct? could my timing be an issue for no spark as well? also my motor was made in 93 an e5 ecu will work with that right?

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240life
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should work fine. I would seriously check your wiring again. And you will need a FSM and ohm meter (DMM) to properly do the continuity test on the wiring and ecu. I am almost willing to bet $ you made a 3 wire connection instead of the required 4 wire connection required, I did the same thing trust me i got a f'n bald spot from scratching my head.timing should only cause a spark at the wrong time.

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240life
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If you want to check the timing follow these steps:

1 remove valve cover

2 spin crank untill the 2 differnt colored links (usually darker grey) line up with the dots on the cam gears, and the crank pulley marking is on the last marking on the passenger side (TDC) front cam lobes should be facing outwards on both intake and exhaust cams

3 look at CAS the dot on the left should be in line with the hash mark , if not refer to heavy throttle's site for proper setting of the cas.

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callmeweezy724
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i jus went out and checked..i noticed that i didnt have the second blue/red wire spliced..so i added it in wit the black/red, the other blue/red, and the brown wires...tried it and no go...heres a pic of my wiring..

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callmeweezy724
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im sure the timing was on if you look at it on my other post..i kno someone said something about spinning it 180* or something like that..

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240life
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callmeweezy724 wrote:heres some more pics i put the radiator and e-fans in..heres some pics of my vaccum lines can some one tell me if there right bc im not too sure so if you help me out that would be great bc i have one thats unused what should i do with that? And i kno my throttle cable bracket isnt attached all the way. My blacktop didnt come with one so i took my sohc one and im goin to take it to work modify it with at cutting wheel..heres some shots of my turbo timer, ebc, and gauges..
I know your vacuum lin are not correct yor BOV should be run to the nipple on the top left of your throttle body, if you are using a turbo timer you will connect the vacuum line with a tee to that line other wise nothing else should be conneted there. The nipple on your right will consist of your FPR vacuum and boost gauge lines also your boost controller unit vacuum. The left over nipple on the bottom of the throttle body should be capped. The vacuum lines on you boost control solenoid should have one to the intercooler nipple(most likely going to have to add this nipple yourself) and one to the waste gate and one empty spot on the solonoid, remove the cap from it or your controller will not work properly.
Modified by 240life at 5:26 PM 7/2/2008

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240life
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callmeweezy724 wrote:i jus went out and checked..i noticed that i didnt have the second blue/red wire spliced..so i added it in wit the black/red, the other blue/red, and the brown wires...tried it and no go...heres a pic of my wiring..
Are your connections soldered and taped or just taped? I highly recomed soldering these connections.

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callmeweezy724
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thanks for correcting my vaccum lines..ill get those fixed up. And yea there jus taped my soldering iron broke i guess ill have to get a new one! thanks for the help..any suggestions on what could be wrong with the start-up? Ill have to pick up a multimeter tom and test for continuity.

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240life
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Don't get me started on the start up issues I was real smart and had my fuel line backwards for about a week it would start and die as soon as you hit the throttle! I would solder those wires together and then test your coil pack for 12V i belive it is the middle wire on the plug harness side. If no voltage shows make sure you plugged the motor harness and c/p harness together. If you still have no power your c/p harness might be bad, there is a link on how to fix or make one on here somewhere.They recomend removing the cas plug and turning the car over several times for 20 seconds before firing up to get oil to the engine. loosening your cas and rotating it slightly advanced as you or someone else is turning the car over. Only required if it isn't starting after a couple tries.oh and take that intercooler pipe to an exhaust shop and have them weld it shut, plugging it shut with duct tape is good for start up but once you hit 1psi boost kiss it good bye.If it turns out that your main harness is junk JDM planet on e-bay has brand new harnesses, I am using one and it is great, the only difference being the fuel pump wire was purple/black instead of pink/black


Modified by 240life at 5:37 PM 7/2/2008


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