OutToWinPAHC's LS6/T56 s13.5 (no longer my car)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
hbpignosePA
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looks awesome as always man

when is there going to be another meet?

i was hopin for an end of summer one too


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TroubleBound
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:HmmmmI am doing it, a 6 speed swap.
Oh hells yeah. Gunna have to subscribe to this one

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OutToWinPAHC
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I got busy... I think another May meet may be in order, this time some-wheres larger, invite a tow behind bbq guy, and finish it off with a cruise to somewhere or an evening event.

Trans is in for rebuild now, Clutch is a Spec 2+

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OutToWinPAHC
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Oh and I am on the Market for S13 5 speed clutch and brake pedals so if you have a set email me.

[email protected]

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OutToWinPAHC
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Talked to trans builder today (LSX performance and development). All the parts are in. Trans checked out okay, nothing was wrong so its going to be cleaned today, and he will start getting it back-together with the new parts this week. The 4/5 shift fork was back-ordered from D&D, so that s my hold up. No biggie because I haven't bought the pedals or master yet.


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OutToWinPAHC
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FAT MAN AND NIPPLE WARNING

So I decided to start pulling the old transmission tonight.

As usual the drive shaft was a PITA. Because of the drive shaft safety loop, H pipe, and close ran pipes I had to pull the trans x member, loosen the diff, and pull the rear sway bar to slide it out..

Then it was time to drain the trans as much as possible. Total is about 11 quarts with converter. So I got about 8 quarts out of the pan and tail, got the hard to reach bellhousing bolts out. Disconnected the shifter, vacuum modulator, VSS.

My buddy asked me what I was jacking the trans out with and I said nothing. I got under the trans and gave it hell. While sliding the trans back on slipping the input shaft off the converter I hit a snag. A snag that I knew I was going to hit, but I hoped not to. I ran out of room between the bellhousing and fire wall. So the tans is held on by about 1/4 an inch of splines on the input shaft. I tried and tried to get her off, but it was not happening. Meanwhile about 3 quarts of trans fluid drained onto me while I laid under the car hoping to brake the trans loose and have it land on my chest. (about 120lbs).

Pics of me covered in trick shift. BEER GUT AND NIPPLE WARNING Random shotStuck

Plan is to borrow some taller stronger jack stands, jack it up a few inches higher. Put stand under the rails. Place jack under the crossmember loosen the bolts until the are the lowested they can go, lower crossmember down and hope .7 of an inch lower giver me the space I need. If not I need to loosen the motor mounts and tilt the motor back.


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240sxJoe91
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Great build dude...Nice posters on the wall

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Idahos13
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240sxJoe91 wrote:Great build dude...Nice posters on the wall
I'm thinking the same thing!! Very nice build man!.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Jenna, Briana Banks, and Krystal steel. Then at the other garage I have some Taylor rain, Sasha Grey, and Hailey Young.

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Didderson
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HAHAHAHAA.... wow... Out2win... you have some great taste in pronstars ... sasha...

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OutToWinPAHC
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Jenna is there because she just happens to in with the hot chicks. But yeah I can go on an on about p0rn, its quite sad.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Trans is out....

Took about 3 hours. I some 5 ton stands under the front frame rails right before the engine crossmember. Then I loosened the steering column pivot bolt, and put a floor jack under the engine crossmember. Then I put the jack up to hold the crossmember and loosened the 4 bolts as low as the could safely go and lowered the jack. This dropped the engine crossmember about 3/4 an inch down. I got some more room, but I was still hitting the damn firewall which is hammered up.

So then the backup plan.... Ground a 15MM wrench down and I was able to get between the flexplate and converter. 2bolts later and luck, my roomate was home. Helped me spin the crank and get the last converter bolt out. Transmission and converted came down smoothly right onto my beer belly.

Success.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Transmission is in transit. A new bearing set was also added. So other then the gears the used trans that had 61200 miles is now rebuilt with upgraded syncros and shift forks.

I pulled these at the local junkyard. 25 bucks for everything.

Pedals, shift boot (not sure if needed), mint arm rest cover, and an ashtray with a carbon fiber sticker on it. The entire interior of this car had this crap. I gotta peel it out. I also need to buy a shift bezel, mine is cut up for the hurst shifter. Now I need a clutch line and wilwood master cylinder.


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OutToWinPAHC
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Good news, I got the yes from Spec clutch. They are giving me up to Spec stage 3+, and flywheel of choice Aluminum or Steel.

The trans I am having rebuilt comes with a lightly used Spec 2+ and Fidanza aluminum flywheel. So spares for me.

So, what you choose? Spec 2+, Spec 3, spec 3+ and aluminum or steel for the flywheel

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Tsukiko
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I would say dont go for an incredibly lighter flywheel and a clutch just strong enough if you plan on comfortably driving this thing on the street. Especially with your sponsorship. hey if the clutch isnt enough you can always get another. As far as your flywheel, you have a butt load of torque. Might as well get a close to stock weight flywheel so you keep a somewhat stock feel. Just my .02

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OM3GA
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Lightest flywheel in the world! And the strongest clutch they make! f*** it! WHOOOOO!

Build is looking mighty complicatingly sexy.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Right now my Flexplate is a a SFI approved TCI piece that weighs 12.5lbs. The Spec aluminum flywheel weighs 13lbs. So they are on par. I cant find the weight of the steel unit.

The cool part is the aluminum and steel both have removable replaceable friction plates.

The stage 3 is rated at 832 maximun ft lbs, and the 3+ is rated at 967

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Tsukiko
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What are the stage 2 and 2+ rated at? Stage 3 is even a bit much isnt it?I would start more conservatively.

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OutToWinPAHC
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I have been talking on the Phone with Justin over at spec. Cool guy, he says the stage 2 is not inline with my power goals. The 3 is however. He was telling me the Spec 2 and Spec 3 feel about the same. Still much snappier then OE of coarse, but he was saying I wont notice a difference from 2 to 3.

They also make stage 4, 5, as well and twin disk. When I eventually make my 550-600 RWHP / Trq goal I will need to be on the stage 3. I asked him about chatter, he said it should clear after break in.

He also has a LS S13. A 500hp.trq drifter, using stage 4.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Oh and I think I mat go steel on the flywheel, I read some interesting write ups and guys don't like the aluminum for a street driven or drag car. The drag guys like the response more on steel.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Spoke to the sales / support guy at Spec who was at home enjoying his day off until he got my email. Took a few minutes to talk about the flywheel for my use.

As suggested because its not a time attack, drift, autocross car he wants me to use a steel flywheel. Granted the RPM's will spin up faster on aluminum, but they will drop off much quicker. This car sees a little street time, will see a lot of Atco raceway this summer, and maybe a road coarse and some autocross. It's not a dedicated track car, but a street machine. And the steel flywheel will keep the momentum going instead of dropped off faster which is more suited for my needs.

Justin, thanks for the time.

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AZhitman
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Good work.

Light FW is a dumb choice. I'm pulling mine out, in fact, based off Justin's suggestion.

I <3 my Spec clutch, tho!

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Tsukiko
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these are exactly the issues i meant to imply but was to lazy to go into detail about. massive torque conquers all.

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OutToWinPAHC
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AZhitman wrote:Good work.

Light FW is a dumb choice. I'm pulling mine out, in fact, based off Justin's suggestion.

I <3 my Spec clutch, tho!
We were talking about your G. You know the one you shouldn't sell. Anyhow he said nice things about you, and how he just sent you something out.

He also said your beard sucked.... wait no he didn't

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OutToWinPAHC
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I'm also thinking about selling the wheels. I love them, but I love the look of steelies.

Thinking some 16x8 +10 fronts 225 45/50 16'sand 15x10+10-15 rears with 285 50 15's

hbpignosePA
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16/15 staggered will look goofy w the 16s in the front

just my .02

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OutToWinPAHC
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But do they clear the Z brakes in 15? (Diamond Racing pro)

hbpignosePA
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i dont even know if 16s will even clear; if thats the case just run 16s in the back too


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s13 iDRIFT
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i believe you will have to get spacers, if im correct!

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OutToWinPAHC
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hbpignosePA wrote:i dont even know if 16s will even clear; if that's the case just run 16s in the back too
16's is the failure of wheel size. Tire options sucks, especially in items like drag radials
s13 iDRIFT wrote:i believe you will have to get spacers, if im correct!
You know they custom make to whatever backspace you want. I'll have to measure the caliper clearance using their sizing tool. But if I need spacers I'll just look for something else.


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