New owner, couple of small issues

[Destrto]

Ok, so i was able to get the flexplates swapped over. What a pain, but that's out of the way now. Ended up taking the transmission out, so that it could be re-attached to the motor easier. Whoever leaves the transmission under the car during an engine pull with an automatic must have the patience of a god and 3.5 arms. lol.

Oh, by the way, my flexplate from my original motor had holes in it like you mentioned.

[Destrto]

I also wanted to add some info I found amusing, now that the motor is out of the car. It looks like a PO or previous mechanic cut off the passenger side VTC connector, and had it's harness side connector plugged in to the knock sensor.

Could have been where my persistent misfire was coming from on the passenger side, you think?? Lol.

[DCaff300ZX]

I also wanted to add some info I found amusing, now that the motor is out of the car. It looks like a PO or previous mechanic cut off the passenger side VTC connector, and had it's harness side connector plugged in to the knock sensor.

Could have been where my persistent misfire was coming from on the passenger side, you think?? Lol.

WOW!
It has always been funny to me some of the amazing things that some people find OK to do when "fixing" their car, unable to see that their last crazy move basically undoes a solution or worsens their previous problem(s) or opens up a whole new issue.
"I'll just hack this off, that should do it. Where does this plug go? Hmmmm, let's just plug it in there...should be fine."

[Ace2cool]

They're the same plug so he probably thought it was correct, lol

[Destrto]

I also wanted to add some info I found amusing, now that the motor is out of the car. It looks like a PO or previous mechanic cut off the passenger side VTC connector, and had it's harness side connector plugged in to the knock sensor.

Could have been where my persistent misfire was coming from on the passenger side, you think?? Lol.

WOW!
It has always been funny to me some of the amazing things that some people find OK to do when "fixing" their car, unable to see that their last crazy move basically undoes a solution or worsens their previous problem(s) or opens up a whole new issue.
"I'll just hack this off, that should do it. Where does this plug go? Hmmmm, let's just plug it in there...should be fine."

Haha, exactly. I'm not saying that I've never done something stupid like this to any vehicle I've owned. Because I have lol. But, so far, nothing has been altered on this car while in my possession, other than oil changes and a pop filter in place of the stock airbox.

This was definitely humorous to find. I wonder what actual problems that had been causing on this engine?

[Destrto]

Quick question. Are the transmission housing bolt sizes the same between manual and auto? I seem to be missing one of the longer bolts, and want to make sure I'm going crazy or not.

[Destrto]

Also, for those that know. Can someone edumacate me on what exactly the VTC's do on our engines?

[itsa300zx]

Also, for those that know. Can someone edumacate me on what exactly the VTC's do on our engines?

Copied from BDE performance, intake VTC:

"By design, the VTC function is to advance the intake cams 20° (crankshaft) from just above idle to roughly 5800 RPM to increase torque in this RPM range. At idle and high RPM the VTC is in its static “zero advance” position which reduces valve overlap for smooth idle characteristics and increases torque at higher RPMs - and it is only in the zero advance position that the VTCs can make noise."

These VTC are activated by the rear solenoids to allow oil pressure to advance the cam gears.

[NolimitZ32]

The OEM flywheel is solid. I've used the bolts to hold it in place before by locking a breaker bar or something of the sort between two of the flywheel bolts and turning another, this is a PITA and the bar will slip out a lot but it works in the end.

[Destrto]

The OEM flywheel is solid. I've used the bolts to hold it in place before by locking a breaker bar or something of the sort between two of the flywheel bolts and turning another, this is a PITA and the bar will slip out a lot but it works in the end.

I was actually able to finagle a box end wrench between the driver side exhaust manifold and one of the notches on the flexplate that line up the clutch. Got them all off without too much hassle.

My question at the moment, however, is how much of the teeth on the flexplate should be showing through on the starter housing hole? I think I either have the thing on backwards, or the trans isn't seated quite far enough yet.

[Destrto]

Any tips or tricks to getting the transmission to seat int the torque converter completely when re-attaching it to the motor? I think that's why it doesn't look lined up.

[NolimitZ32]

Manual = Flywheel
Auto = Flexplate
They aren't really interchangeable and will make it a lot easier to talk about if you use the correct term.

As for your question, you should install the TC in the trans first, then put the trans on the car then turn the engine over by hand until you align the mounting bolts and attach the TC to the flexplate. there is a small window on one side of the block at the bottom (I don;t remember which) that is there specifically so you can do this.

[Destrto]

Manual = Flywheel
Auto = Flexplate
They aren't really interchangeable and will make it a lot easier to talk about if you use the correct term.

As for your question, you should install the TC in the trans first, then put the trans on the car then turn the engine over by hand until you align the mounting bolts and attach the TC to the flexplate. there is a small window on one side of the block at the bottom (I don;t remember which) that is there specifically so you can do this.

Right. I thought I was using the correct term. Maybe it got confusing.

I have my flexplate attached to my donor motor, ready for my automatic trans. And am working on re-attaching the transmission. Quick question on that while I'm on it. Is there only one correct orientation when installing said flexplate?

So I see what you're saying, I may need to start over using that method and put things on in a different order. I was not aware of or noticed any window at the bottom of the block, so I'll definitely take another look for that. That might make installing this thing easier.

[Ace2cool]

Unless your crank is so out of spec that it needs to be externally balanced, then the flexplate doesn't have an orientation.

[DCaff300ZX]

WOW!
It has always been funny to me some of the amazing things that some people find OK to do when "fixing" their car, unable to see that their last crazy move basically undoes a solution or worsens their previous problem(s) or opens up a whole new issue.
"I'll just hack this off, that should do it. Where does this plug go? Hmmmm, let's just plug it in there...should be fine."

Haha, exactly. I'm not saying that I've never done something stupid like this to any vehicle I've owned. Because I have lol. But, so far, nothing has been altered on this car while in my possession, other than oil changes and a pop filter in place of the stock airbox.

This was definitely humorous to find. I wonder what actual problems that had been causing on this engine?

Agreed, unfortunately in my younger days I learned the hard way from doing such things so I also understand how it can happen. The good of it all was it made me study up a lot more on my car(s) and repairs, to the point that when I decided to get into Z32's I had a decent idea of how to go about it, even if as we all learn the car has it's way with you regardless.

[Destrto]

Unless your crank is so out of spec that it needs to be externally balanced, then the flexplate doesn't have an orientation.

Took the advice given and re-assembled everything. It all went together much more smoothly. And, with the help of a buddy that came over for a short while yesterday, I now have the motor and trans back into the engine bay.

I am now ready to start plugging things back up. Coolant delete/bypass is done. Prvr and EGR gone.

Quick question about the coolant lines on the plenum. If I don't remove those, like the guide suggests, is there any harm to leaving them? They don't actually feed into the plenum, do they?

First, the trans dipstick tube and feed lines need to be reattached before I forget.
Next, my accessories. Power steering pump, alternator, and AC compressor. waiting on a new Condenser for that.
Then, reattach the trans bracket and mounts, along with the passenger side downpipe and 1-piece driveshaft.

[Ace2cool]

If you just leave them disconnected, there's no foul to that, except for leaving like 3-4 lbs of tubing and crap in the bay. As long as you do the actual bypass itself correctly.

[Destrto]

If you just leave them disconnected, there's no foul to that, except for leaving like 3-4 lbs of tubing and crap in the bay. As long as you do the actual bypass itself correctly.

Gotcha. Yes the only pieces that have not been removed are the nipples that attach directly to the underside of the plenum. The guide talks about drilling them out to remove them. I don't wan to bother with all of that.



So, next obstacle to tackle. I started a help post on the Facebook Tech page. I have a 1 Piece steel driveshaft that supposedly came out of a 2+2 Auto like mine. However, through some digging, I have discovered that it looks like the spline count is not correct.

What I mean more specifically, is that the 1 piece DS has 28 splines if you don't count the wider portions on either side. The conundrum?? My stock DS (with a busted carrier bearing) only has 24 splines..

[Destrto]

Hey guys. It's been awhile. But I have made some progress so far. The donor motor is in the car. Had a few snags, but i got most of them ironed out. It even fired up tonight!! So excited.

Now, here comes where I need help again.I noticed after I got the car started, that the power connector going to the battery was sparking. But before i could turn the car off and check things, something popped and the car shut off. On top of that, the battery is not seeing any voltage whatsoever when it is hooked up to the cars power and ground cables. If I take them off of the abttery, my battery charger shows the battery has juice.

I dont see any fuses blown. I checked those set of fuses right next to the battery and they all look fine. And none of the other fuses look burnt or blown either. But with the battery hooked up, the car gets no power at all. One thing that I also noticed after taking the cables off of the battery, was that the power terminal on the battery looked like it had been chewed through and melted almost by the positive cable from the car.

To me, that sounds like I have either a ground wire hooked to power, or a power hooked to ground. But if that were the case, why wouldnt i have blown any fuses? Any help, suggestions, or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Im so close to being able to drive this thing.. lol

[amc49]

Something wrong in the main power cables? Often you can make issues with how the main cable attaches at starter, it can touch something else to barely ground.

Hope you got that ATX converter all the way in to not tear up the ATX, a very common mistake.

FYI, the VCT is often used to replace an EGR valve if the car does not have one, the moveable cam moves to increase overlap at TDC and that provides the same function as EGR.

[Destrto]

Something wrong in the main power cables? Often you can make issues with how the main cable attaches at starter, it can touch something else to barely ground.

Hope you got that ATX converter all the way in to not tear up the ATX, a very common mistake.

FYI, the VCT is often used to replace an EGR valve if the car does not have one, the moveable cam moves to increase overlap at TDC and that provides the same function as EGR.

Thats what I'm going to start with tomorrow. Going through all of my cables, make sure all the grounds go to ground and power goes to power where they should. I need to double check my starter and alternator cables to make sure nothing got crossed there.

What I noticed is happening, and i still need to take another look to check a couple of things, when i have the car side power and ground connected to the battery it shows no voltage at the battery. But when I unplug them, the battery suddenly has voltage. Which, unless Im misunderstanding what that means, is that I have a cable crossed or shorted somewhere.


Can you explain what exactly you mean by getting the converter all the way in? When I was installing it into the trans, I could clearly feel where it bottomed out. However, as far as getting things installed correctly, when I remove the starter and look into the hole there, i only see about half, to 3/4 of the flexplates teeth visible. To me, since ive never removed or installed a starter or had to diagnose one, how much should be visible there for the starter to bite into? Do you happen to know?

When trying to start the car, I did notice that every couple of tries, it sounded like the starter wasnt catching the teeth on the flexplate enough. Then I'd try again and it would catch with no trouble.

[amc49]

The flexplate of course must be on correctly to mesh right. Some can go on backwards but commonly the bolt patterns are slightly messed up with at least one hole slightly off center, it forces the plate to go on only in one position to keep any neutral balance in the right place. There may not be any weights for that but sometimes the plates are drilled to balance them in a minor way.

Can't say exactly on that model as I don't have one but the convertor typically has to go on passing like 3 different hanging steps or more before they are fully in place and not being so should make flexplate issues. Each one of those 'steps' feels like a bottoming out. The service manual usually gives a measurement that can be checked against the case casting face and then you know convertor is all the way in. Not being all the way in generally tears up the trans as soon as car is started. One way to tell as well if flex and convertor are right is that with convertor all the way in trans you will be forced to pull it up a bit forward when you go to bolt it in, that movement is what gives you the space to be able to index the convertor in to the flexplate as to studs or bolts holding the two together. With convertor back you should also be able to turn it by hand before you pull it forward, another sign it's in all the way. If convertor seems to be locked against the flexplate before you have even bolted the two together that is screaming STOP! you are about to screw up royally.

Viewing starter teeth in and of itself has nothing to do with how the starter will engage them, many cars you can't see the teeth at all. It's all back to flexplate has to be on correctly and then convertor put on making sure it was all the way back to not pin it against the flex. Then starter must go on correctly as well. I've had to shim a few but not common at all. Any shimming goes in/out as related to center, not forward/backward like moving starter toward front or back of car.

[NolimitZ32]

Check the ground on your alternator, I have seen it 2 ways
1) There are 3 eyelets, 2 to power (Both white wires), 1 to ground (should be black wire)
2) 2 eyelets (one with 2 white wires entering it) this is power, the other is ground (black wire).

Not sure why I've seen it both ways, could be due to previous owners' shenanigans or could be that it was done both ways from the factory.

[DCaff300ZX]

The flexplate of course must be on correctly to mesh right. Some can go on backwards but commonly the bolt patterns are slightly messed up with at least one hole slightly off center, it forces the plate to go on only in one position to keep any neutral balance in the right place. There may not be any weights for that but sometimes the plates are drilled to balance them in a minor way.

Can't say exactly on that model as I don't have one but the convertor typically has to go on passing like 3 different hanging steps or more before they are fully in place and not being so should make flexplate issues. Each one of those 'steps' feels like a bottoming out. The service manual usually gives a measurement that can be checked against the case casting face and then you know convertor is all the way in. Not being all the way in generally tears up the trans as soon as car is started. One way to tell as well if flex and convertor are right is that with convertor all the way in trans you will be forced to pull it up a bit forward when you go to bolt it in, that movement is what gives you the space to be able to index the convertor in to the flexplate as to studs or bolts holding the two together. With convertor back you should also be able to turn it by hand before you pull it forward, another sign it's in all the way. If convertor seems to be locked against the flexplate before you have even bolted the two together that is screaming STOP! you are about to screw up royally.

Viewing starter teeth in and of itself has nothing to do with how the starter will engage them, many cars you can't see the teeth at all. It's all back to flexplate has to be on correctly and then convertor put on making sure it was all the way back to not pin it against the flex. Then starter must go on correctly as well. I've had to shim a few but not common at all. Any shimming goes in/out as related to center, not forward/backward like moving starter toward front or back of car.

This is good info, and points out one possibility I had rattling around- a TT clutch or plate perhaps got mixed in (in my NA I had a TT flex and clutch installed with my 5 speed swap) which does often require some shimming to engage correctly with NA starter. If you've ensured the converter is seated fully/correctly, approach as amc49 indicates to mesh the teeth correctly and I also assume there are how-to's about the 'net on this fairly common solution.

[Destrto]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate all the info. As of right now, for whatever reason, the starter is engaging correctly when I try to start the car. I didn't touch anything, so im not sure if it just needed to self align (I'm sure that's not really a thing) with the flexplate since it was a new starter? Or what exactly. But it no longer grinds like it's missing the teeth. I'll for sure be keeping an eye on how it acts though.

A couple of other things are now going on with it. That I've been trying to figure out. First, is one that I think I know the answer to already, but I'm still checking all options. The car is not reaching correct temps at idle. Meaning it looks as though the car is running very cool (temp gauge only shows 1/4 instead of at or near 1/2 like it should) and I think that is causing the thermostat to stay closed or causing the ecu to keep the car in "I'm cold" mode.. I have another temp sensor I'm going to try and put on, but the one im using was replaced less than 6 months ago. One thing to note, was that while I was bleeding the radiator for the first time, the temp gauge showed correctly, showing at about 1/2 way and I could clearly tell the thermostat opened. However, once I finished filling the radiator, the temp gauge dropped to about 1/4 and never moved after that. It lowered when the car cooled off, obviously, but letting it idle again later that day it never went any higher then 1/4. I'm going to ohm test it first to see what I get and go from there.

The next issue that has me a bit frustrated, is the IACV again. I now have 3 replacements. And 2 of the 3 engage the little bendix thing when i put power to both connectors. However, After the car has reached operating temp (or idled long enough to warm up) I am unable to get the idle down at all by tightening the idle screw. It is currently all the way screwed in, and idle is at about 1K. Now, if I unscrew the idle screw, it starts to raise. But in order to get it down to near 1k, it's all the way in. I have new plugs on both connectors, with a new paper gasket, and the terminals have been cleaned of corrosion. But im still having no luck.

Could this be related to my temp sensor not working? Since the ecu isnt reading that the car has warmed up fully. I have also adjusted the TPS to witing .4-.5v. I knew to check that first, and it did make a big difference in where the car idled at.

[Destrto]

Check the ground on your alternator, I have seen it 2 ways
1) There are 3 eyelets, 2 to power (Both white wires), 1 to ground (should be black wire)
2) 2 eyelets (one with 2 white wires entering it) this is power, the other is ground (black wire).

Not sure why I've seen it both ways, could be due to previous owners' shenanigans or could be that it was done both ways from the factory.

Thought I'd quote you separately. I found the cause of the issue for this. Since i was focused on the last things I touched before hooking up the battery, I forgot to unhook my amplifier and capacitor in the trunk. I'm thinking that the capacitor drained from it being without power for so long, and it being as cold as it was here. And when I went to start the car, the capacitor was trying to charge rapidly and fried itself, causing a short.

Once I disconnected my power wire leading to those, everything came back on and works just fine. However, sad part is, it fried both my amplifier and capacitor.

[Destrto]

Alright update on the coolant temp sensor. The sensor itself seems to be functioning normally. I took Ohm readings at cold start as it was warming up and after driving it around the block. I searched for the specs, found a post from twinturbo.net and my readings were within the values given. What I did notice, however, that i thought was strange. The harness side connector was reading strangely, and I'm not sure if thats normal or not? The harness connector was reading -6kOhms at cold start, and fellto -9kOhms once the car warmed up. Also worth noting, that it would only read with the probes inserted a certain way, trying to swap them around gave a 0 or NULL reading. And when I disconnected the connector from the sensor, it read 1.25kOhms.

The car currently idles smoothly, aleit a bit high at 1200rpms. But it drives as though it's low on power and struggling to accelerate. Last time I remember it doing this, the coolant temp sensor and one of my O2 sensors had gone bad. I have 2 new O2 sensors ready to replace, I just have to get to them. Although when I run the car's self diagnostic for the O2's they read fine.

[Destrto]

Hey guys, another update. I took it for a drive last week. Well, I say I tried to. As it only made it about 2 miles down the road and I lost all gears. Felt like it went into neutral and wont shift. The shift lever moves through all the gears, but it never actually shifts into gear.

It has also just spent about 10 days at a local shop, and they tell me after their diganosis, the problem is that the transmission pump is not seeing any line pressure. Now, I am not familiar enough with what exactly that means. I know that low line pressure can cause late or missed shifts, but getting no pressure at the "transmission pump" is new to me. So, i wanted to get your guys' thoughts. The Z32 Tech page on Facebook seems to think that that is BS from the shop.

Just as an aside, I wasn't having any trouble whatsoever out of the my transmission before this.

Also, I had a similar issue happen with a 3000GT I used to have. And it ended up being the solenoids had failed. The shop says they tested those on my Z, however... Im just looking for better info, or a direction to go here.

[Ace2cool]

If it's not getting ANY gears, then it most likely won't be solenoids. Losing one gear would make me think this but not all of them. I think the trans shop is on the right track.

[Destrto]

If it's not getting ANY gears, then it most likely won't be solenoids. Losing one gear would make me think this but not all of them. I think the trans shop is on the right track.

The only reason my mind went to solenoids, is that when this same issue happened with my 3000GT, after a rebuild and trans replacement, the issue came down to the solenoids being bad. Currently, my Z is doing the exact same thing. Sits in Neutral while I cycle through PRND21.