New owner, couple of small issues

[Destrto]

Checked out the trunk hatch yesterday after work. Did not have a counterweight, but I was able to re-position the latch so that the hatch sits tighter to the car, and no more rattles. Thanks for the tip, it helped me out.

[Destrto]

I dont' care what anyone says, replacing the alternator on this car is a major pain in the a**.

The top 17MM bolt does not come out. I've been fighting this thing for 3 hours now.

[centralcoaster33]

17mm? That doesn't sound right to me. Should be maybe 12mm? The one used for the tensioner?

PB Blaster and let is soak while you take a couple hour break maybe. I figured it's covered in oil and should not be seized though.

[Destrto]

17mm? That doesn't sound right to me. Should be maybe 12mm? The one used for the tensioner?

PB Blaster and let is soak while you take a couple hour break maybe. I figured it's covered in oil and should not be seized though.

The top pivot bolt is 17mm. It turns semi-freely. The problem is getting it out. I can't get enough grip on it, even following the write-ups, to get it to do anything but spin.

[centralcoaster33]

Isn't there a nut on the back side of the pivot bolt? Or, you're saying there's no access to stop that from turning maybe? I read that it's common to have issue with the top bolt. It's a PITA. Some say they used pry bars. I'm not sure how that works. If it's spins, it must be loose a bit. Can you stick a flathead in there between the top of the bolt and the alternator and use that to draw the bolt out a bit?

Here they talk about moving the sway bar out of the way and other access tips. Maybe this helps?
alternator-changing-guide-t410489.html

[Destrto]

Isn't there a nut on the back side of the pivot bolt? Or, you're saying there's no access to stop that from turning maybe? I read that it's common to have issue with the top bolt. It's a PITA. Some say they used pry bars. I'm not sure how that works. If it's spins, it must be loose a bit. Can you stick a flathead in there between the top of the bolt and the alternator and use that to draw the bolt out a bit?

Here they talk about moving the sway bar out of the way and other access tips. Maybe this helps?
alternator-changing-guide-t410489.html

Yea I can see it, and see it spinning. But the way everything else is positioned I can't get anything besides the ratchet in there.

And the nut that fits on the back side unscrewed like its supposed to and fell out. So I know that wasn't an issue.

The way it sits, I can't get a good hand position on either the front or the back to get that bolt to free up and slide out.

[centralcoaster33]

So, the back nut is off and you still can't slide out the pivot bolt is what I'm understanding. Maybe that's where the pry bar comes into play. You'd use it to push on the back end of the bolt. While doing that, rotate the alternator up and down on it's pivot bolt to help it along. Once you get enough of the bolt head away from the front of the alternator, you could use that flat head screwdriver to put behind the head and pull it further out. I kind of wish I was there to help. I'm sure it's easier to see than to describe in words.

[Destrto]

So, the back nut is off and you still can't slide out the pivot bolt is what I'm understanding. Maybe that's where the pry bar comes into play. You'd use it to push on the back end of the bolt. While doing that, rotate the alternator up and down on it's pivot bolt to help it along. Once you get enough of the bolt head away from the front of the alternator, you could use that flat head screwdriver to put behind the head and pull it further out. I kind of wish I was there to help. I'm sure it's easier to see than to describe in words.

Yea, that is exactly what the situation is.

That was the solution I tried to come up with myself. I just didn't have any tools small enough to get positioned in there.

I ended up getting it replaced at a shop and had to take it right back in.

It has started hesitating very badly. And struggling to accelerate unless under full throttle. So I have a shop looking at it currently.

[centralcoaster33]

Okay, best of luck. I had a pivot bolt stuck in an alternator. It was kind of bent into a curve, so it didn't want to slide out very well. When I finally had all out, I could see that one of the holes in the mounting bracket for the alternator was all ovalled out. Previous owner must have over tightened the belt at some time in the past. I'm sorry yours had to go to the shop. I hope they can get it all dialed in quickly for you.

[Destrto]

Bit of an update for anyone still following. Just to keep you guys up to date.

The hesitation and lack of acceleration was caused by a bad 02 sensor and plug. Previous Owner had the 12+ and Sensor wire swapped on the connector. So both 02 sensors had gone bad on one side due to that. Local shop said they got that fixed up no problem, and for a decent price (Finally a car these local shops will/can work on) and everything is right as rain. Car has power again, gets up and runs like it should. And should get better gas mileage as well!

He also mentioned that he found that the knock/detonation sensor was bad, but he didn't fix it, because it showed to be around 8 hours labor and not directly related to the 02 sensors.

Looking on the forums, I found a relocation kit for cheap that I will be going with to fix that on my own.

So, overall, good news all around!

[centralcoaster33]

That is good news! I've seen the relocation stuff for the knock. Seems like an okay idea to avoid the hassle of the OEM location. I'm very glad you're up and running properly again!

[Destrto]

That is good news! I've seen the relocation stuff for the knock. Seems like an okay idea to avoid the hassle of the OEM location. I'm very glad you're up and running properly again!

Thanks! Me too. And I'm so relieved that it was a simple, fairly cheap fix. I did just a little bit of research on the Knock sensor relocation. I haven't run across anyone that it hasn't worked for. And for less than $40, it seems like a pretty good fix to me.

Now I can start looking at making some minor upgrade/replacement to things. Biggest issue I still have is the camber in the front is pretty bad right now. I don't know for certain of the main culprit, but new upper control arms should be a good start.

On the list so far--

Front/Rear Sway bar bushings
A/C belt
2-pass Radiator
Radiator hoses
Solid Motor mounts
Front Upper control arms
Front/Rear Brake Rotors - (Finished)
Front/Rear Brake Pads - (Finished)
Cone Pop Filter - (Finished)
Front Bumper
Shift Improvement Kit - (Gotten mixed opinions on this)
Transmission flush/filter
New tires

[Destrto]

Quick question for anyone. What is the plastic lip piece located right above the battery called? And follow up to that, where can I find one?

[centralcoaster33]

Which one, the one under your wiper blades? AKA Windshield Cowl... online, junk yards, online, part-outs, dealership?

[Destrto]

Which one, the one under your wiper blades? AKA Windshield Cowl... online, junk yards, online, part-outs, dealership?

yes, that one. The one that fits on top of the battery, on the passenger side. So, it's known as a cowl?

[Destrto]

Quick question for you guys, while I'm waiting on a new knock sensor and oil pressure sensor to come in.

Is there any sort of delete or reduction that I can do to the air intake assembly? I've removed the stock airbox, and added a pop filter already. But now there is all of this excess piping in there.

[centralcoaster33]

Yes, not just any cowl, a "windshield cowl". Google that with 1990 300zx and you'll get pictures and parts you can buy. I'm not familiar with the 300zx intake system. I imagine if a pipe is there that is not connected to anything, then you could remove it. This guy has a pop filter on his, see the third picture down (I realize the topic is different, but the third photo may help).
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan ... moval.html

[Destrto]

Yes, not just any cowl, a "windshield cowl". Google that with 1990 300zx and you'll get pictures and parts you can buy. I'm not familiar with the 300zx intake system. I imagine if a pipe is there that is not connected to anything, then you could remove it. This guy has a pop filter on his, see the third picture down (I realize the topic is different, but the third photo may help).
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan ... moval.html

Thanks, I'll check that out.

My next dilemma. Replacing the knock sensor. I'm not seeing any connectors that match any of the photos online. Anyone have a more specific photo or input on which one it is?

[Destrto]

Crisis averted. I found the plug for it. Previous owner just moved it. It was bundled up with the 02 sensor connector.

I had to take the end connector off of the extension that came with the relocation kit, because it was nowhere near the same style as what was on the car. It was'nt going to fit. So I swapped the stock connector from the harness on the car to the extension and it plugged in fine.

I'm guessing there won't be any noticeable difference in the way it drives? Except that now I no longer throw code 34 for it.

[Destrto]

Alrighty, so the new Oil pressure sensor I bought does not work. I get voltage to it, but nothing on the dash. The old one half way worked, but in the struggle to get it out, I've mangled it all up and I'm pretty sure I've broken the connectors on the inside.

Any thoughts on that? Or just return it for another.

[Destrto]

Alright, next up for issues.

The wiper washers seemed to have stopped working suddenly. Looking at the front washer tank, i see 3 connectors. 1 is red, and looks to be the main power connector. And the other 2, grey and blue, look to go to each pump on the reservoir.

I get 12V out of the red connector. But jumping that connector to either of the pump connectors, does nothing. So I'm not sure if that's just telling me the pumps have both gone out, or that they don't just get 12v power to work.

Anyone have any ideas? Is there a fuse im looking for that controls the washer pumps?

[Destrto]

Just an update to the thread.

Received the 2nd new Oil Pressure Sensor, got it installed and it worked!

Went in and removed the leftover air intake tubing that was hanging loose and not being used. Just to free up some space.

Got the AC belt replaced as well. Probably the easiest belt replacement I've ever done on a car. For it being so tight packed, it was very easy to get the belts off and back on.

Installed a new Ignition Solenoid, under the driver side fender. No noticeable change in the way the car performs or starts, but I guess it's good to replace OE with new.

Next on the list will be Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms, Front torsion bars, and Front Inner tie rods. Mainly to fix the camber being so bad currently. And also because the driver side inner tie rod is bent.

[Destrto]

Quick question guys, did any of the 300zx's come with traction control? Is there any way to tell, if they did?

Also, where would be a good idea to start looking if I believe the previous owner has disabled the Check engine dash light?

[centralcoaster33]

I don't know TC, maybe someone else can tell. My initial research says no, there was no factory traction control. I also found there may be aftermarket systems that could be added. TC works in conjunction with ABS, so you'd at a minimum need that ABS system to have the TC system. Got ABS?

So, when you put the key in the ignition and turn it to on, but do not start the car. Your CEL should illuminate. When you start the car it should go out, that is, unless you have a code, then it would stay on. So, does your bulb light up properly with key in, turned to "On" and the engine is not running? That is a test for the bulb in the cluster. Next place to look is the back side of the cluster. You have to remove it to see. If the bulb never ever lights up, it's either burnt out or it's been unplugged. You can buy replacements or you could pull another bulb from say the oil light or fuel light or seatbelt light. If it does light up like it should with the engine of and key on, but it does not light up like it should for codes when the engine is on, then you'd see extra wires to that bulb on the back of the cluster. That means the previous owner took a separate system and used it to trigger the bulb in an attempt to fool a testing station.

[Destrto]

I don't know TC, maybe someone else can tell. My initial research says no, there was no factory traction control. I also found there may be aftermarket systems that could be added. TC works in conjunction with ABS, so you'd at a minimum need that ABS system to have the TC system. Got ABS?

So, when you put the key in the ignition and turn it to on, but do not start the car. Your CEL should illuminate. When you start the car it should go out, that is, unless you have a code, then it would stay on. So, does your bulb light up properly with key in, turned to "On" and the engine is not running? That is a test for the bulb in the cluster. Next place to look is the back side of the cluster. You have to remove it to see. If the bulb never ever lights up, it's either burnt out or it's been unplugged. You can buy replacements or you could pull another bulb from say the oil light or fuel light or seatbelt light. If it does light up like it should with the engine of and key on, but it does not light up like it should for codes when the engine is on, then you'd see extra wires to that bulb on the back of the cluster. That means the previous owner took a separate system and used it to trigger the bulb in an attempt to fool a testing station.

I'm not 100% if I have ABS or not. I just notice that in wet weather, it "seems" like when my tires start spinning, they act like some type of TC. Where they will stop or one side will stop. Or when I try to force a burn out, it'll start and then quickly stop once the tires begin to spin. It's weird.

Yes, I do see the CEL light when I initially turn the key. And yes, it does go out seconds after the car is started.

I'll check for extra wires behind the dash there. The shop that worked on my car, when fixing the 02 sensor, mentioned that the ECU was throwing the code for bad 02 sensors and Code 34 for the knock sensor. But I never saw the CEL on the dash come on. That's what prompted my curiosity about how it could be disabled, etc..


While on the subject of lights, sometimes when I'm hard on the gas on the highway, I'll see the Transmission light on the dash come on and flash a few times. It eventually goes out, but it usually only happens when I'm playing lead foot.

For context, I DO have the Dropping resistor removed in the passenger fender well.

[DCaff300ZX]

Sorry, haven't looked in for a bit but glad to see you solved some issues.

So currently:
The Z32 has ABS, behind the passenger seat there's a small panel that can be removed to bleed the ABS when doing brake work...be sure to remember that as you surely will need brakes done and may do them yourself.

No traction control in the Z32, period. You CAN however buy it from a few sources that can tailor it for the car, I was able to google locate a source easily when I looked years ago.

Your report of the CEL lighting upon start confirms the CEL system then is correct and in operation. The possible explanation for not getting a CEL code but the shop seeing codes is that the ECU saves ALL discrepancies (codes) sensed by the sensors as stored codes which the shop can download from a port, but generally the ECU reports only failure codes via CEL and not intermittent codes...and O2 codes are usually intermittent at first until the unit actually fully fails which you usually only find out at emissions time. Has to do with the fact they are an intermittent sensor anyway, the way they operate, plus the fact there are a lot of sensors reporting down the pipeline constantly so therefore priorities exist and that affects code reporting as well. So keep in mind that sometimes it's worth getting the ECU stored codes read when/if odd things occur.
One last possibility is that the "voltage always on" mod has been done, as both of my cars have had done by me to avoid the electrolysis damage caused by voltage always on at the injector terminal, and this makes the ECU only report codes once while the car is running or ignition on, then wipes the ECU code memory. If I miss a CEL code thrown I never will know the code until it presents again, and I either am able to read the blinks while driving, or I leave the ignition on and poll the ECU with the screw and read the CEL blinks for the code.

Going back to your oil pressure sensor issue, be aware that the stock gauge is notorious for zero readings when there in fact is correct pressure. This can be either the gauge itself, or the sender and a weak gauge. You may once again see fluctuations and even very low readings when the engine has been running for long periods such as traveling distances...if so just check your oil level to be safe and if correct, feel safe and suspect the gauge. I found that using a slightly lower weight oil (10/40 vs. 10/30) in my very high mileage NA helped stabilize the gauge readings, which at times would still occasionally peg and hold at zero. The engine would be a little sluggish warming up cold mornings of course, but ran fine when warm. Not recommended for healthy engines as you may blow seals under hard acceleration...my NA had small gasket leaks already just not bad ones, so I never found any issues.

The trans light is odd, perhaps the pump is about to fail (common) and the sensor notices the band pressure loss when in high performance. Check the A/T oil and if it is low, brownish, or has any kind of burnt, acrid smell it needs changing ASAP. DO NOT have the trans flushed by Nissan or anyone! They will try to insist on that procedure (more income for them) but it WILL very quickly kill the trans, a well-known issue to many longtime Nissan guys and confirmed by a transmission specialist shop I was able to use for a few years...I've lost one within a week when a shop mistakenly did what I asked them NOT to do, and I've seen almost a dozen other Nissans from friends/etc, suffer this same fate. The problem as I see it is that the trans has only a catch screen for debris, which the back flush forces back into the trans instead of out and which needless to say would be disastrous to a worn transmission, or any transmission really. Nissan WILL NOT admit to this saying debris is removed and instead blames your old trans for dying. Have the fluid removed and replaced ONLY and by someone other than Nissan, and be very strong about that so they are sure to do only that. A good shop can easily handle this. Friction-reducing additives are recommended for the older trans, they really helped mine for a few years before the new shop I had to use killed it the first time around with the "mistake" flush.

Last, be sure to download the FSM in the "everything you need to know about the Z32" sticky...it has answers to many of your questions and best of all, tests and checks for various issues and that have often solved my issues.
Good Luck!

[Destrto]

Sorry, haven't looked in for a bit but glad to see you solved some issues.

So currently:
The Z32 has ABS, behind the passenger seat there's a small panel that can be removed to bleed the ABS when doing brake work...be sure to remember that as you surely will need brakes done and may do them yourself.

No traction control in the Z32, period. You CAN however buy it from a few sources that can tailor it for the car, I was able to google locate a source easily when I looked years ago.

Your report of the CEL lighting upon start confirms the CEL system then is correct and in operation. The possible explanation for not getting a CEL code but the shop seeing codes is that the ECU saves ALL discrepancies (codes) sensed by the sensors as stored codes which the shop can download from a port, but generally the ECU reports only failure codes via CEL and not intermittent codes...and O2 codes are usually intermittent at first until the unit actually fully fails which you usually only find out at emissions time. Has to do with the fact they are an intermittent sensor anyway, the way they operate, plus the fact there are a lot of sensors reporting down the pipeline constantly so therefore priorities exist and that affects code reporting as well. So keep in mind that sometimes it's worth getting the ECU stored codes read when/if odd things occur.
One last possibility is that the "voltage always on" mod has been done, as both of my cars have had done by me to avoid the electrolysis damage caused by voltage always on at the injector terminal, and this makes the ECU only report codes once while the car is running or ignition on, then wipes the ECU code memory. If I miss a CEL code thrown I never will know the code until it presents again, and I either am able to read the blinks while driving, or I leave the ignition on and poll the ECU with the screw and read the CEL blinks for the code.

Going back to your oil pressure sensor issue, be aware that the stock gauge is notorious for zero readings when there in fact is correct pressure. This can be either the gauge itself, or the sender and a weak gauge. You may once again see fluctuations and even very low readings when the engine has been running for long periods such as traveling distances...if so just check your oil level to be safe and if correct, feel safe and suspect the gauge. I found that using a slightly lower weight oil (10/40 vs. 10/30) in my very high mileage NA helped stabilize the gauge readings, which at times would still occasionally peg and hold at zero. The engine would be a little sluggish warming up cold mornings of course, but ran fine when warm. Not recommended for healthy engines as you may blow seals under hard acceleration...my NA had small gasket leaks already just not bad ones, so I never found any issues.

The trans light is odd, perhaps the pump is about to fail (common) and the sensor notices the band pressure loss when in high performance. Check the A/T oil and if it is low, brownish, or has any kind of burnt, acrid smell it needs changing ASAP. DO NOT have the trans flushed by Nissan or anyone! They will try to insist on that procedure (more income for them) but it WILL very quickly kill the trans, a well-known issue to many longtime Nissan guys and confirmed by a transmission specialist shop I was able to use for a few years...I've lost one within a week when a shop mistakenly did what I asked them NOT to do, and I've seen almost a dozen other Nissans from friends/etc, suffer this same fate. The problem as I see it is that the trans has only a catch screen for debris, which the back flush forces back into the trans instead of out and which needless to say would be disastrous to a worn transmission, or any transmission really. Nissan WILL NOT admit to this saying debris is removed and instead blames your old trans for dying. Have the fluid removed and replaced ONLY and by someone other than Nissan, and be very strong about that so they are sure to do only that. A good shop can easily handle this. Friction-reducing additives are recommended for the older trans, they really helped mine for a few years before the new shop I had to use killed it the first time around with the "mistake" flush.

Last, be sure to download the FSM in the "everything you need to know about the Z32" sticky...it has answers to many of your questions and best of all, tests and checks for various issues and that have often solved my issues.
Good Luck!

Hey! Appreciate all the input. It helps get a better understanding from someone who's likely had to deal with similar issues to mine and get feedback.

The brakes, to me, feel great. I have good pressure at the pedal. There's no weak brake pressure or mushy feeling like there might be air in the line.

I understand about the CEL light. So that might be OK for now.

The oil pressure sensor has been working great. Only getting a bit eradic on longer trips. I consistently see 30 at idle, and just under the 60 mark during driving. The first gauge i got was infact bad, the membrane inside had been damaged.

The trans fluid and filter were changed by me a few weeks ago. Along with a trans cooler installed. It runs fine, as far as I can tell. The harsh shifting, from removing the dropping resistor seems to have eased up.

I've been looking into that thread for quite a bit lately. It's helped a lot with the posts I've been adding to this thread. And you guys have been great so far with adding extra suggestions and comments when I still have a question.

[DCaff300ZX]

All good news, and keep after it!

[Destrto]

Quick question about the front bumper. A lot of places have them separated by either 2door or 2+2. Are they interchangeable?

[Destrto]

Since all of my questions have been kept in here for cleanlines, I have another. I'm putting on an electric fan in place of my clutch fan... A lot of debate, i know. Spare me. What I'm having a tough time with, however, is finding a relay that I can wire it up to that only gets power when the ignition is on. I have a relay in the engine bay for Rad Fan, but it seems to get power all the time. I hooked up the fan to it, and it turned right on with no key in. Is there another relay I can tap into or a different way I can wire the fan to this same relay and not need a toggle switch?

Any helpful advice on this?