New owner, couple of small issues

[Destrto]

I definitely have something wired wrong, because i noticed today that my radiator fan mounted behind the ac condenser stays on all the time.


My next question after doing some research. Since I do technically already have a fan that is wired to turn on when the temp reaches a certain degree. Would there be any harm in splicing straight into that connector for my other radiator fan?

[Destrto]

Hey guys, long time without posting here. I figured instead of opening a new thread and cluttering up the forum I would post in here.

So, I'm having sudden rough idle and driving issues. Now, before you say "search is your friend" I have searched through the forum already quite a bit. I have taken note of all the tests and possible causes that have been posted so far in those. I'll try to give as much info on the issue and what I've tried up till now to help you guys help me troubleshoot as much as possible.

-I have checked the TPS, it comes back at .45V.
-I checked base idle, it's as close to 650-750 as I can get it. (Done with the yellow connector removed)
-I have removed the coil plugs one at a time to check for any idle changes. I hear a drop idle with every one.
-I have replaced the spark plugs with NGK pfr6g-11. The first week after doing this it ran great, idle smoothed out even more so than it was before.
-The alternator has been replaced recently. Not sure if that's relevant to this issue.

Now, more specifics about the issue. This is on an Auto, by the way, for those that don't remember.

It, honestly, sounds like a dead cylinder issue. Like a spark plug or injector going out at times. I can let the car sit and idle and hear it happen every minute or so. Similar to how you'd hear an accessory kick on and off. However, I have made sure that everything on the car is off and it still occurs the same. (Lights, heat/air) One minute, the idle is fine and smooth. The next minute the idle dips and gets rough. It sounds like a hollow echo coming from one of the cylinders and I can visibly see the engine shaking slightly from the drop in idle. But, like I mentioned, removing the coil plugs one at a time,I can hear the idle get worse with each one. I was hoping to get lucky there and not notice a change when unplugging one of them that would point me in a direction to look. At a cold start, what normally happens is it usually raises idle up to about 1500RPM for a minute or so and then eases down to about 1000RPM and stays there whenever im at idle parked or stopped at a light. Now when I cold start the car, the idle stays around 500-650 until it warms up. I have to give it steady throttle to keep the RPM up or it will die. Also, it wants to drop idle when in Drive, while slowing down below 25Mph. I can physically feel the engine run rough as though it wants to stall. But, once it's in neutral or park the idle comes back up to around 1000RPM and gets steady, most of the time. I'm giving you the idle numbers, because that's what it has always ran at for me when I was not experiencing these issues.

EDIT: Does anyone happen to have the photo or a link to the one NoLimitZ32 has in the sticky at the top of the page? It sounds like that might need to be my next step, but I can't see the photo. Even though I believe my PTU is the old style.

[NolimitZ32]

You need to put it on a thermo-couple with adjustable controller so you can zero in on the correct temp, running the fan all the time (as in running your car too cold) has drawbacks, the engine is designed to run at optimal temps that why engines have thermostats. Secondary you probably will need to find a switched power source but that so you don't have to pop your hood every time you get out to shut it off. The fuel injector control circuit (on of the big white wires on the underhood side of the fender, you'll have to check the wiring diagrams) and the fuel pump are both ignition switched. There are others but I don;t know them off the top of my head.

[Destrto]

You need to put it on a thermo-couple with adjustable controller so you can zero in on the correct temp, running the fan all the time (as in running your car too cold) has drawbacks, the engine is designed to run at optimal temps that why engines have thermostats. Secondary you probably will need to find a switched power source but that so you don't have to pop your hood every time you get out to shut it off. The fuel injector control circuit (on of the big white wires on the underhood side of the fender, you'll have to check the wiring diagrams) and the fuel pump are both ignition switched. There are others but I don;t know them off the top of my head.

Thanks for some extra insight on this. I ended up finding out that when I had the fans set up through the toggle switch, it was not getting 12 volts. And thus not running at full speed. I have since replaced this setup with the stock clutch fan until i can get together the proper items to complete it correctly. I'll keep your info on hand though when that time comes.

EDIT: To follow with my last post on the idling issue. I have since checked the ecu for codes using the connector under the dash. It came back with 55, so no immediate codes found. I also went ahead and checked the O2 for codes. Both left and right sensors came back with normal readings. blinking frequently during testing.

Also, more specifically, the idling issue is at its worst during a cold start. It no longer increases idle until the car warms up. It starts and drops immediately to less than 500 RPM or so. Too low for the alternator to maintain charge.

[Ace2cool]

Have you checked, cleaned, and/or replaced the IACV?

[Ace2cool]

Also performed the base idle setting procedure on the IACV?

[Destrto]

Also performed the base idle setting procedure on the IACV?

Replying to both of your comments. Yes, I have done all of that. I removed the connector, following the guide. Set the idle to ~750. Plugged it back in. I could hear the idle jump up slightly and settle back down as it's supposed to. Worth noting, it does do this on every cold start. Maybe 3/5 times.

I also tried another IACV unit, however I believe it may have been non-working, because it made things much much worse. After putting mine back on, it began functioning correctly.

What I'm noticing, is that it's intermittent currently. The last few days on a cold start, the car idles a bit higher like it is supposed to till things warm up. However, driving down the road a bit, while coasting at slow speeds, it still feels like the car has trouble holding steady Idle. It'll act like it wants to hesitate or stumble. But as soon as I give it any kind of throttle again it steadies up and drives fine.

Also, if it's worth knowing, I'm not currently experiencing any hesitation issues or stumbling while driving down the road 30 or higher, regular road speeds. The stumbling only occurs when I'm coasting slower than, say 10 MPH, like through a parking lot.

[Destrto]

I'm also currently on the hunt for any vacuum leaks. From what I've read, the stumbling while coasting could be a vacuum leak too.

If anyone has any other suggestions to help me narrow down what may be happening, it would be appreciated

[Ace2cool]

Hesitation can definitely be vacuum related. Look at ffrpwner's "everything you need to know" thread in Z32 general and look at the device used to check for vacuum leaks about halfway down the post. Super helpful tool if you have a compressor. Turns a vacuum leak hunt from a wild goose chase to a pinpoint endeavor. Even couplings that seem to be right could have a crack or something, with as old and brittle as this rubber is getting.

[Destrto]

Hesitation can definitely be vacuum related. Look at ffrpwner's "everything you need to know" thread in Z32 general and look at the device used to check for vacuum leaks about halfway down the post. Super helpful tool if you have a compressor. Turns a vacuum leak hunt from a wild goose chase to a pinpoint endeavor. Even couplings that seem to be right could have a crack or something, with as old and brittle as this rubber is getting.

Hey thanks for reminding me. I've checked there for a lot of other info. I'll have to take a look at the info in there for vacuum leaks. I found a rubber cap that fits over the air intake. I just need to figure out a way to mcguyver it to work and try my luck with it.

So far, I have put new connectors on both the Fast Idle plug, and the IACV plug. Put on a fresh gasket to the IACV and tightened it back down. Checked the IACV with 12 volts to ensure functionability. The rpm at idle still acts intermittent. Sometimes, when i unplug the IACV connector the rpm drops and gets a little rougher, and other times it doesn't.

Also, it does sound like there is a slight air leak noise, but so far I've been unable to locate it. Still looking.

[Destrto]

Ok, Performed a vacuum leak test the best way i could. I used Carb cleaner and sprayed all around the hoses and intake plus around the rear. Noticed no change in idle when i sprayed anywhere.

However I hear a slight kissing noise that sounds like it is coming from the rear of the engine. But spraying best I could back there gave no change in the idle. So, I dont know if there is supposed to be that noise there from something, or if I just have a different type of leak going on.

To try to better explain what the car is doing now... At cold start, it idles normally. Idle raises to about 1200 -1300 RPM for a few minutes, then slowly makes its way down to a little under 1000 as it warms up. BUT. Once the engine warms up and the idle settles down, it starts to sound like there is a miss. Once that happens, I also notice that the idle starts to hunt a bit. Where it will rise from ~850 to 1000-1100 for a few seconds, as though its compensating for an accessory being on, then settling back down again. I have made sure to test this by turning off all the accessories on the car. Same activity. Then it repeats this process as it runs. It's pretty rhythmic. Repeats every 10-15 seconds.

It also still acts like it has trouble maintaining idle while coasting at low speeds. 10Mph and under. When I let off the pedal entirely and let it cost along, the idle dips and becomes unsteady, and it feels as though it wants to stall. Similar to what a vacuum leak would cause. But again, I've been unsuccessful so far in finding one.

[Destrto]

Quick update for those still following. I tried the other method of performing a vacuum leak test and was successful in finding a couple leaks. I used a rubber test cap used in plumbing, with an air nozzle from my compressor. Attached it to my intake piping and voila!

It sounds like I'm losing air from the front and rear EGR ports on the plenum. I know the front port is leaking air for sure, because I placed my fingers around it and I could feel air escaping. Turns out one of the bolts stripped the threads on the plenum. I tried finding a bolt with slightly coarser threads to try and get some grip and tighten it down a little, with some RTV sealant for added effect. I know it won't last, but it has stopped the leak from that location for now, so that I can focus on the other one in the rear.

Since I don't currently have a way to drop the engine to do an EGR delete, is there a way to cap those off or even access those ports without having to remove the engine from the bay?

[centralcoaster33]

Whoo hoo! Glad you found some leaks to fix. I've been following, but don't know the answer to the EGR access. These other guys will know for sure though. Keep it up!

[DCaff300ZX]

As for EGR, I'd search the EGR delete threads ( I seem to remember some done without engine removal?) and use that info for my work, also the OSM is a friend with diagrams and the actual procedure in order to help you with what needs to happen. Never been there myself luckily as mine is still functioning correctly and not leaking, but was also serviced and upgraded harness applied (one failure area).
If going delete, be sure that your local emissions won't give you a real headache come tabs time as you probably won't pass without the EGR in many states.

[Destrto]

As for EGR, I'd search the EGR delete threads ( I seem to remember some done without engine removal?) and use that info for my work, also the OSM is a friend with diagrams and the actual procedure in order to help you with what needs to happen. Never been there myself luckily as mine is still functioning correctly and not leaking, but was also serviced and upgraded harness applied (one failure area).
If going delete, be sure that your local emissions won't give you a real headache come tabs time as you probably won't pass without the EGR in many states.

Yea, ive been taking a look at the OSM and looking through old threads regarding EGR deletes. The one I found that mentioned doing it without removing the engine I think just said it was a PITA. I've also found some great youtube videos from TwinTurboTim (i think thats his name) and even he had the car up in the air doing the EGR delete.

[Ace2cool]

It's borderline impossible, but it can be done. Once you get the bolts threaded out as far as they will go, they will hit the firewall and still not be free. Those b***hes are ridiculously long for no apparent reason. If you really are determined, you can get a hacksaw back there and cut the bolt heads off and possibly slide the EGR unit off the backs of the bolts and then turn the bolts out with long pliers. Again, this is borderline impossible but it has been done before. Or keep turning the bolts out with pliers and remove them and the EGR unit at the same time.

What I did with mine was cut the tubes at the back side of the plenum, fill the tips of the tube with high temp RTV, and then bend them over with duck bill pliers until I pulled my engine, and then removed it properly once the engine was out.

[Destrto]

It's borderline impossible, but it can be done. Once you get the bolts threaded out as far as they will go, they will hit the firewall and still not be free. Those b***hes are ridiculously long for no apparent reason. If you really are determined, you can get a hacksaw back there and cut the bolt heads off and possibly slide the EGR unit off the backs of the bolts and then turn the bolts out with long pliers. Again, this is borderline impossible but it has been done before. Or keep turning the bolts out with pliers and remove them and the EGR unit at the same time.

What I did with mine was cut the tubes at the back side of the plenum, fill the tips of the tube with high temp RTV, and then bend them over with duck bill pliers until I pulled my engine, and then removed it properly once the engine was out.

Yea that's the consensus I seem to be finding myself. I would just cap everything off, but where the bolts thread into the plenum on the passenger and driver side rear are stripped. Which is where it seems my only option now is to remove the system entirely. Now, I haven't started calling around yet, but Arkansas is not an emissions state. So i might get lucky and find a shop that can just rip it all out and weld those ports closed. It's a bit trivial at this point though, I think.

[Ace2cool]

Just get some block off plates and tap the holes with a helicoil

[Destrto]

Just get some block off plates and tap the holes with a helicoil

That'll be easier said than done, considering I cant get both my hands and a tool down there at the same time. Haha.

[Ace2cool]

Oh that's a plenum pull for sure. Just do the water delete while you'rein there, and the job goes from a 4 hour round trip to like 45 mins.

[Destrto]

It looks like I'll have a chance to remove it on my donor engine, seeing as mine decided to lock up on me afer an oil change.

Why does nobody seem willing to provide what the specs are for the thread or pitch of the EGR bung plugs? Out of all the threads and replies from people who have done them, no one has offered that info?

[Destrto]

Asking in here in case someone can get the answer quicker than i can search.

Is the flywheel the same size between NA manual and automatic?

[NolimitZ32]

Automatics don't have a flywheel, they have a flex plate, the mounting holes size, thread, spacing on the crank are the same so if you're getting an engine out of an auto to put into an NA or vice versa you'll be fine, just reuse the flywheel/flexplate from your car.
As for the EGR bung, I did the research years ago, the oil drain plug for a mid 2000s diesel truck fits perfectly, I don't remember which one ford, dodge, or chevy, I want to say 7.3 powerstroke but not sure. That should get you closer.

[Destrto]

Automatics don't have a flywheel, they have a flex plate, the mounting holes size, thread, spacing on the crank are the same so if you're getting an engine out of an auto to put into an NA or vice versa you'll be fine, just reuse the flywheel/flexplate from your car.
As for the EGR bung, I did the research years ago, the oil drain plug for a mid 2000s diesel truck fits perfectly, I don't remember which one ford, dodge, or chevy, I want to say 7.3 powerstroke but not sure. That should get you closer.

Oh i see, good info. Reassuring that I won't have to replace anything in that regard.

And thanks for pointing me in the right direction for the drain plug. I'll have a look and see what i can find.


Also, since we're semi on topic. Would it be any easier, since I have an auto transmission, to pull the engine with or without the trans? i know that with a manual trans, you have to line up the clutch assembly. Is fitting together an auto similar, or any easier as far as that goes?

[Ace2cool]

Getting the engine out is far, FAR easier without the trans attached. Fitting an auto is a bit easier because you don't have to worry about the clutch disc getting off center from the rest of the assembly.

[Destrto]

Getting the engine out is far, FAR easier without the trans attached. Fitting an auto is a bit easier because you don't have to worry about the clutch disc getting off center from the rest of the assembly.

If I don't have to worry about aligning things with the auto, then I may forgo trying to pull the trans along with the engine. That'll cut out some worktime for sure. My only concern from there, though, is removing all of the trans bolts?

Another question. About getting the flex plate off to transfer it to my donor engine. Is there an easy way to keep the engine from wanting to rotate while I'm trying to loosen those bolts? So far I've been unsuccessful in keeping the crank pulley from turning with it on the engine stand.

[Ace2cool]

Bunch of extensions and 2 universal joints for the top left, bunch of extensions and one universal joint for the top right.



That's on a Supra, but it's the best image that shows what's going on. Just wedge something on in there and turn the bolts. However, IF we determine your engine is legitimately locked up, you won't really need to do that. For reinstall maybe. But right now you need to be tracking down possible hydrolock before we have any more talk about pulling engines.

FWIW, I've done my entire build thus far without the use of power tools. Hand tools only.

[Destrto]

Bunch of extensions and 2 universal joints for the top left, bunch of extensions and one universal joint for the top right.


That's on a Supra, but it's the best image that shows what's going on. Just wedge something on in there and turn the bolts. However, IF we determine your engine is legitimately locked up, you won't really need to do that. For reinstall maybe. But right now you need to be tracking down possible hydrolock before we have any more talk about pulling engines.

FWIW, I've done my entire build thus far without the use of power tools. Hand tools only.

That's where I'm at as well. Nothing but hand tools so far. Don't have access to power tools yet, besides a dremel.

I know the flexplate/flywheel on my donor engine doesn't have any openings in it to wedge anything in there. That's what made me curious of other options.

[Ace2cool]

I know the flexplate/flywheel on my donor engine doesn't have any openings in it to wedge anything in there. That's what made me curious of other options.

None at all? Really? Huh. Should have big holes in it. Like this: https://www.z1motorsports.com/piston-cr ... -6786.html

I guess you could try wedging a flat prybar in the teeth of the ring gear? That's really odd. Or just try the impact method and use a box wrench and a ball peen hammer.

[Destrto]

I know the flexplate/flywheel on my donor engine doesn't have any openings in it to wedge anything in there. That's what made me curious of other options.

None at all? Really? Huh. Should have big holes in it. Like this: https://www.z1motorsports.com/piston-cr ... -6786.html

I guess you could try wedging a flat prybar in the teeth of the ring gear? That's really odd. Or just try the impact method and use a box wrench and a ball peen hammer.

The donor engine is out of an Na Manual. So the flywheel/flexplate looks like a solid piece. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp- ... tPEALw_wcB Similar to that.

since it looks like I'll have to pick up some extra extensions to reach those top transmission bolts anyway, I might be able to tackle it by hanging a socket and breaker bar off the crank pulley.