New 93 Q45a owner

[maxnix]

I recommend reading the previous posts. There are OEM transmission heat exchangers on either end of the radiator. Follow the hoses. There never has been an OEM ATF cooler, per se.

[elwesso]

Correct.. No external transmission cooler... The stock "cooler" is more/less a heat exchanger.....

[redmanfx]

Sorry, I'm a redhead and I thought everyone knew where the Condensor was... My mistake. The cooler I just installed in Between the Condensor and the radiator. It will get plenty of air and is a must if you ask me. Especially if you have an 92 or earlier because we don't have grills.....

redmanfx92 Q45a

[slsmag]

I don't have a keyless remote, and the dealer wants $175 for it and $90 to program it.

Buy a replacement for model year on eBay for between $10 and $25.

To program the remote on my 94Q I use this provedure:

1) Get in the car, close and lock all doors.2) Use remote trunk release to open the trunk3) Insert and remove the key from the ignition in and out at least 6 times within 10 seconds4) Unlock and then lock the DRIVERS SIDE door lock5) Press the lock button on the remote

the hazard lights will blink, and you're done!!!

Here's what you're doing:

You lock the doors and open the trunk to get to the mode.......Then when you do the key thing, it erases the old code.....whenyou lock and unlock the door, it is ready to accept a newcode...... then you press the button on the remote to send thenew code, and then you are done......

To program more than 1 remote, simply repeat the last 2steps......

[qball]

thanks slsmag! you just saved me about $250. Are ALL Infiniti dealers as bad as Infiniti of Charlotte, as far as parts pricing goes? I mean, come on, $175 for a remote, and $90 to "program" it. That ought to be a crime. I did get the name and home phone# of their Q45 mechanic. He works on Q's only and has been there for 12 years. Gonna call him this weekend to see if he moonlights.

[redmanfx]

thanks slsmag! you just saved me about $250.

Ditto...

Redmanfx92Q45a

[redmanfx]

Well I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and the rubber hoses attached to the fuel filter on both sides. Now I can't go over 3,000 RPM at all! Massive hessitation starts and forget about go past 3,000. I don't understand because it wasn't major surgery or anything.

I had to Take off the top of the airfilter box, which happens to be broken(I need another), and remove the Charcoal emissions cylinder to get to the oil filter. Got that on and put all back. No problems there. Changed the oil.

The fuel line hoses were trash, so I replaced them with the fuel filter and then this problem starts. My Q had no problems before and ran great. When I tried to start it, it wouldn't start. It kept turning over but wouldn't start. The Check engine light is now on. When it did start it had massive hessitation and almost died. How does air in the fuel lines hurt the Q? After running 20 miles home it runs a little better, but still won't budge over 3,000 rpms and wants to die if you try.

I disconnected the battery cable for about 10 minutes and put it back on and still have the same issue. I'm pissed!:mad: This was simple so what's the problem here? I also here a hissing noise like some vacuum line is leaking, but none are. It almost sounds like a fuel injector spitting fuel.

Any Ideas what the hey happend?

redmanfx92 Q45a

[redmanfx]

OK I have come across Camshaft Position sensor info on another thread. Exactly my problem of not being able to go over 3,000 RPM. I did remove the carbon on charcaol canister today. Which is it carbon or charcoal? Anyway I'll read up on the CPS. I don't think I messed with the CAS either, but I'll check.

Could also be the MAF connection as well, Right? I'm guessing. Where is the CPS? I'll research more....

Love the search tool at the bottom of these threads!!!

Redmanfx

[qball]

Oil spot in the driveway this morning. Does anyone know what the hll is just in front of the rear wheel passngr side that could leak oil/grease? It's not near the suspension, which is behind the wheel, but just in front of the rear wheel close to the exterior of the body. It seems to have a thin boot of some sort on it. What is dat?

[redmanfx]

Oil spot in the driveway this morning.

Are you sure it wasn't just condensation or dew running down through the works? Also check the suspension oil lines that run in the vacinity for active Q's. Could be brake fluid as well.

Different subject,

Found out that the CAS and CPS are the same thing. Will work on it Tomorrow. May need new MAF connector due to this one being a.a.a. old.

redmanfx

[qball]

It was thick oil of some sort, for sure. It's not ActSusp fluid as I don't have an "A" model, and it's nowhere near the suspension. If you lay on your back, stick your head under just in front of the rear wheel, it's right there at the inside front section of the wheel well, just where it starts. It's so close to the outside of the car I saw the spot as I was walking toward the car. I guess it could be brake fluid, but it's dark brown, almost black, and thick. Wouldn't brake fluid be red?

[redmanfx]

qball, I'll check into it today when we check my undercarriage and AC clutch.

My car started with no issues this morning and I can run well past 3,000 rpm. I guess the system reset itself over night. No check engine light or anything. Runs great again.

redmanfx92 Q45a

[qball]

Good for you redmanfx! Glad to hear your situation corrected itself. Kind of scary though, I'm sure.

No oil on the pavement this morning for me, just a single drop that hadn't fallen. Guess whatever reservoir this came from is empty. I hope not. I have to to drive 2 hours to Greenville, SC tonight and back and don't have a choice not to go. I don't think that its brakes, suspension, or rear end, but could be related to any of those given its proximity.

[redmanfx]

The car acted up again! This time it died on the road and just shut down. It took a while to get it started again. Then it died again on the way home. When it acts up I can't go over 3,000 RPM and this hissing noise really kicks up under the plenum.

I cleaned the MAF connector, but still didn't help. I waited 4 hours while trying to remove the ECU, which did not budge from the harness and is still firmly in place. After 4 hours I started her up and it started right up with no problems and no check engine light. Now I can hear the fuel pump.. Could that have been the cause of this whole thing. I mean before the oil change she was fine, but now she's a *****!

redmanfx

[qball]

wish i could help but i'm an idiot.

[Jesda]

Wouldn't brake fluid be red?

PS fluid? Of course, that would be red wouldnt it...

[qball]

Problems, problems, problems....Now I have to climb in through the window to get in my car, driver's door won't unlock. Also, when getting on it, power curve isn't smooth from 4-7k rpm. It's kind of "surgey". It'll start to take off really good, then I lose a little power, that'll build back up, then I lose a little power. Could it be that I just need a tune-up?

Any ideas?Anyone?Bueller?Bueller?

[elwesso]

Bueller..... Its so choice, if you have the means i highly recommend picking one up..

Sorry had to do it!

I would say you have the normal Q with bad maintenace... how is the idle???

[qball]

Ya know, elwesso, I wasn't even thinking about your whatever you call it when Bueller, Bueller popped into my mind. It was just the syntax of my thoughts. How weird.

I spoke with a Q45 mechanic tonight. From what I'm told he's been working on Q45's exclusively for 12 years. Got his home phone# from a mutual friend. Told him I needed someone who could moonlight for routine maintenance, check out this bad strut boot, tune up, fix my driver door lock so I don't have to crawl through the window. He said he'd call back in a day or 2. I'm sure he's going to try to check me out to make sure I'm not a set-up. Hope he can help me out. That would be a real sweet deal for me!!!

This same friend, a Mercedes 430 driver, told me that the surging in power when I kick it could be dirty injectors, and that this happened because, since its a new car to me, I've been kicking it alot and that knocked some crap loose thats clogging the injectors. Would "off-the-shelf" injector cleaner be a solution?Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[qball]

By the way, the idle has been really steady and smooth at about 550rpm, but the past few days I've had a little cam-shake, but not any real rpm fluctuation.

[elwesso]

if anything, BG44k is the solution.. A rail flush will help too, if thats the problem..

[qball]

whoa, slow down, me newbie. what are you talking about? b44K and rail flush?

[elwesso]

Sorry... I think off the top of my head too mcuh.....

BG44k is the best stuff (injector cleaner) you can buy.. $17/can from joe.. Infiniti of scottsdale (1888-216-5328, by memory by the way!)

A rail flush is where they run a solvent through the injectors (on the car) and it cleans them to perfectoin.. Better alternative, and then regular BG44k applications will keep them clean for a long time..... $100 or so..

[qball]

thanks elwesso. is BG44K available from other outlets, say locally here in Charlotte, like Autozone, or is this an exclusively Infiniti product or just available from IofS?

i have a date with this female rock dj in Augusta, GA this saturday and want things smooth, so i look smooth (know what i mean?) . I'm going to look goofy enough opening the door for her, then climbing through my window to get in the car.

[elwesso]

BG44k isnt available in stores, only BG dealers..... IofS is one place that deals it... There are other places that get it to, but its mainly mail order stuff......

THe best OTC stuff is techron, for about $7/bottle.....

We'll get your door unlocked.. Post another thread about it, i got a few ideas.....

[qball]

'preciate it, elwesso. i'll try the techron tomorrow (gotta fill up anyway), and if that doesn't do the trick i'll go for the BG44K.

new thread coming up! look for it!

[redmanfx]

OK. I just ordered a can of BG44K and will trying it out soon. I have a question on the plugs and coils. First, Haven't got the plugs yet Wes. Hopefully they will get here today. Second, I have a feeling the plugs haven't been changed in a while, so I'm wondering about the coils as well. The Q has a missfire every so often so I'm going to change out the plugs. What's the best way to check the coils? Should I install new ones since I'm not sure about them? Can I ohm them out? Can I get used coils from the parts threads, or should I say, is it worth it? Got about $700 bucks for this Knick Knack stuff.

I figured the dying RPM, car stalling problem was the fuel pump. I went and filled the tank and the problem is gone. Can't hear the pump now either. When the hessitation was going on I only had about 1/10 tank of gas left. Forgot these pumps need fuel in the tank. Too busy freakin' out I guess. I will be paying very close attention to any noise from it now. Have to go to a specialty shop to have ECU removed. It just won't budge? Very, very odd!!

Frank, who works with Joe wanted $169.00 for the Airfilter box. Way to much! Anyone have one?

qball, welcome to the little quirks club. Can't wait to see the end results from our money and time!!!

redmanfx

[qball]

thanks for the welcome redman. we're not too far from one another.

i had 2 GREAT weeks with my new Q before the little demons started appearing:devil :devil :devil

[redmanfx]

The Q just died! Can't start it. Don't even hear a sound when I try. The Q gets mad and even tries to keep the key locked up so I can't remove it from the ignition switch. I know some of you are smiling.

redmanfx

[elwesso]

Steve... I hope the plugs get there soon...

The coils should be fine, i would say the plugs are shot.. In the FSM I gave you there is a thing in it about ohming hte coils.. Ohm them all and if one or 2 is a lot different than the others replace it.....