NC SC CHAT

[scs13]

ill have to take some pictures of the carpet my brother did, it looks awesome and it didnt take long. he bought two rolls of carpet from walmart for 20 dollars, 10 dollars for foam and some spray glue.

i thought s14 seats bolted straight up?

[Black on Gold]

Dont think so. Anyways, Tomorrow im going to stop by a local shop and get a price quote on painting the car minus the body work. I'll just do that myself.

My Upcoming mods are the Meagan Racing Springs, Zenki lip and then Wheels looking somewhat like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

[Zee]

Good job on the carpet it looks good, even as far as great for a DIY project. Tell me how much your paint is gonna be because I am very interested.

[GoinTopless240]

Hey Zee,Do realize that the hubs you see for $550 (and yes http://www.enjukuracing.com/ does sell them - they are a bit more for an S-14) does include NEW bearings and are pressed in already. Also keep in mind that these fit in your exsisting spindles...read - NO MODIFICATIONS NEEDED. That being said the brakes do need to be modified with a) getting new rotors that are 5-114.3 bolt pattern or b) have old rotors redrilled to correct pattern. Personally I have heard of a bunch of guys doing this, but I have to thing the rotor's balance would be off, not to mention strength (at hub area). I'm swapping mine this way and putting larger rotors and caliper bracket extentions. I may go aftermarket later, but this will do for now.

Used stuff seems like a good idea, but you don't know what shape the bearings are and new bearings will eat up what you saved and then some (unless you have a press and can press them in yourself)

Good luck with your project

[maxima278]

Hey Pat, my brother in law does body work, and I'm trying to get everyone on here to use him, so why not bring it down here? Just get the car sanded properly, do the best you can on the dents, remove the moldings, lights, etc, whatever you want removed, and he'll give it one last once over for you (within reason) and I don't imagine you'll pay more than $300-$400 including paint for him to tape it and spray it. Or of course you could drop it off as is and pay a lot more.

I did mine like that, but that was before he started painting, so I had another guy do it at his dads shop, but I think Thomas will do a much better job. The other guy was supposed to go over my body work but didn't, so you can kind of see imperfections. I'm eventually going to let Thomas redo it. Shoot me an email if you want me to get you in contact with him.

[Black on Gold]

Yea, get me in contact with him. I'd like to repaint it the same color ofcourse with the roof being black

[Zee]

Yeah Re-drilling rotors is down right dumb. That could compromise strength to the point of them breaking (also why it is not recommended to go with Slotted and Drilled rotors). Anyway I found a stage 2 rotor kit with everything but Calipers on EnjukuRacing.com from StopTech for $549.99 I am going to see if I can't find a better price somewhere else, but for now that is what I have found.
Modified by Zee at 7:07 PM 4/22/2007

[Black on Gold]

What does everyone think?

[GoinTopless240]

I saw the rims you were looking at.... are you sure about that offset? +40... I would check into that a bit first.. I always thought with an S-13 that +28 worked pretty well for the fronts... I would check those numbers a bit before you purchase them... They state they are not responsible for incorrect offset.. I would hate to see you get the shaft on those... As far as style.. they seem pretty close to your old ones just gold.. You could just have yours painted and polished.. at least the offset already works.. +40 sounds like a FWD offset. I would think they would sit too far in and would look like Adult shoulder pads on a 10 year old.. (your fenders being the shoulder pads)... Hope it helps..

[GoinTopless240]

Did you mention that you had timing chain rattle?.. I know that the timing chain can wear a hole in the cover (where the thermostat is) and cause coolant in leak into the oil and vice versa). As long as you didn't let it go for too long, you may be ok to just get a new cover. If you hear a knock, knock, knock on start up - pull it. Knocking on startup usually means the main bearings are gone (at least the oiler main). Once she knocks, it usually means rebuilt. I would do a pressure test to make sure head gasket is bad first. Pretty easy thing to do and may save you some headaches...

Good luck..

[Black on Gold]

Well they do look a bit like the S14 wheels i have now. They're only 15's though. Thats the thing. Im just saying that thats the look im looking for

[gr8bryt]

Greetings everyone, I know that it's been ages since I've been on, missed you all a little bit. I get so overwhelmed trying to catch up on all that I missed; I know everything is already written up but just too lazy to read all the way back. It appears that we've got some new members on the board, WELCOME all new-comers! My schedule has just been really hectic lately with school ending soon and actively seeking P/T work. I could work @ Bugger King but I'm keeping my options open. I definitely wanna get started on my project but the fast food business seems a little degrading for me at this stage of my life. My 240 is sick, but still running fortunately. I need a new mid-shaft bearing and I'm still a little rich in my a/f mix. My idle is also a little lumpy. My wife will be graduating w/ her Masters Degree soon so hopefully she'll find employment and that way I can free up some funds w/o having to get a 2nd job. I hope everyone is doing well these days (cars and otherwise). Pat, those wheels would look really hot on your car in that color combination I'm definitely up for Formula D since it's just a hop, skip, and a jump from Cola. I've never been to one and this will be a good family outing, albeit I'll probably only be able to attend on Saturday due to work. I may take a vacation day on Fri. just to be able to see it all, we'll see. My wife's b-day is the 14th and then Mother's Day is around the same time so it will be kinda tight. I hope to see some of you there, but I'll also guessing there's gonna be a huge turn out. I'll post my cell # prior to going down and maybe some of us can get together. I'm gonna have to find a way to identify my car in the parking lot though. Just curious, is Road Atlanta anywhere as large as AMS(Atlanta Motor Speedway)? I didn't have a big problem finding my car when I went to NOPI in 2K2, but it was a long walk. Well peeps, I just wanted to check in and let y'all know that I'm still around....peace.

[Zee]

Ok guys here is something that I am kind of excited about I found a big brake upgrade for S13 and S14 they use Q45 Calipers so that will save you money and that is always good. comes with everything including rotors the shipping is kind of high, but for the price of everything is a lot better than any other place I have found so here you go enjoy and if anyone orders from them tell me how the customer service is.

http://www.frsport.com/_c_12.html

[maxima278]

Bryton, I was wondering if you were still alive, welcome back man!

Pat, that's a good look for your car. The stock ones have the same pattern, but size and offset trump everything. Bronze may contrast a little better though.

[dalzell240]

WERE stumped

we replaced the fan clutch, it idled fine, revved it up and held it at 2 grand still ran cool. took it for a spin, it spiked when we took the on ramp to the house so we shut it off and coasted through the stop sign, went to crank it DEAD BATTERY , so we pushed the car back home me my dad and a dude that stopped to help. anyways it nearly killed us cause it was slightly uphill, and a little less than 2/10 of a mile, and 74 degrees outside.

so we let it cool and tried to bleed the system, feeled up the overflow jug, and went to put the bleeder screw back in, BROKE IT IN HALF IN THE INTAKE and now we cant get it back out

[scs13]

you could try using an easy-out, the bolt is a little tough though. the same thing happened to my friend brandons car. he ended up just putting some rtv over it just to make sure it wouldnt leak.

[maxima278]

didn't you already say there was coolant in the oil? If so, then driving it any more is pointless. You need to replace the head gasket at the very least. I guess you could always check out the motor in the other car, if it seems healthy then use it.

[dalzell240]

its really hard to tell if theyve mixed or not cause the oil still looks like oil, and coolant still looks like coolant

[maxima278]

If they've mixed then you would know, because the oil on the dipstick would look milky.

Have you replaced the water pump yet? Seems like you did, but I can't remember. There's only so many things that can make it overheat. Another thing I would do is take the thermostat out and throw it away. You don't really need it. I drove my car for a whole year without one when I had a KA in it. scs13's brother now has that motor and I bet it still does not have a thermostat in it. One thing I'm still wondering, is if there is something stopping the flow of water. If you take the radiator hoses off, I wonder if you sprayed a water hose in one end if the water would make it out the other side...

[Black on Gold]

Well, i was wondering about the FPR test. Is there any other way besides a gauge to use to test it? Dont really have one available and i'd hate to spend the 90 dollars for a OEM one or 150 on a Nismo unit when its perfectly good

[GoinTopless240]

Hey Pat,I checked the FSM and if you could rent a FPR from maybe Autozone or Advance or some sort of gauge to test it ... the pressure should be 43.4 psi.... I can't imagine with all the cars laying around that you can't find one. I would think that someone would have one laying around... I did some reading and needed to ask a couple of questions... 1) will the engine start... if yes, according to the FSM the engine speed will not rise about 2400 rpm when the computer senses a malfunction in the MAF. This is called fail safe mode. The computer falls into this mode so as not to run too lean a mixture..it doesn't know how much air in coming in, so it just adds enough fuel to prevent a lean condition from happening...

I hope this helps... if you give me a few details maybe I can help find the information for you in the FSM..

[scs13]

hmmm...i sure didnt know that....why was it overheating when you had it?

[Black on Gold]

1) will the engine start... if yes, according to the FSM the engine speed will not rise about 2400 rpm when the computer senses a malfunction in the MAF.

It will? or will not rise to 2400rpms? I believe your thinking about unplugging the MAF. Anyways, this is what i got from 240sx.org on the FPR

To check:

Release the fuel pressure in the system by removing the Fuel Pump fuse and start the engine. After it stalls, crank it a few more times to release the fuel pressure.

Install the fuel pressure gauge on the inlet side of the pressure regulator, start the car and check for fuel leaks.

At idle, the pressure should be approximately:

235kPa / 2.4 kg/cm2 / 34 psi.

Disconnecting the vacuum hose, you should see:

294 kPa / 3.0 kg/cm2 / 43 psi.

After getting your yah-yahs out over that test, connect a hand vacuum pump to the regulator and start the engine. As the vacuum INCREASES, the fuel pressure should DECREASE. If this is not the case, time for a new pressure regulator.

Anyways, here is an overview of what is going on. She cranks up just fine and idles great every now and then with very little black smoke out the pipe. Other times however, she likes to idle rough and hover up and down from 1300rpms to 700rpms and that is when there is ALOT of white smoke coming out and it actually goas around the car and flows RIGHT past me in the seat. Honestly, im stumped. It also seems i lose the most gas when starting up the car. I spent a quarter tank yesterday just going to and fro school.

I'll take a video with my phone when i get home from work tonight. Hopefully a visual will be better.

[Zee]

It will? or will not rise to 2400rpms? I believe your thinking about unplugging the MAF. Anyways, this is what i got from 240sx.org on the FPR

Anyways, here is an overview of what is going on. She cranks up just fine and idles great every now and then with very little black smoke out the pipe. Other times however, she likes to idle rough and hover up and down from 1300rpms to 700rpms and that is when there is ALOT of white smoke coming out and it actually goas around the car and flows RIGHT past me in the seat. Honestly, im stumped. It also seems i lose the most gas when starting up the car. I spent a quarter tank yesterday just going to and fro school.

I'll take a video with my phone when i get home from work tonight. Hopefully a visual will be better.

I have only seen something like that once, but I don't think it will apply to you for certain reasons (Can't Name Them, sorry), anyway that guy was running lean and that was the white smoke. Black smoke usually means you are running too rich. Not exactly sure how to solve this problem mostly because I wasn't the one who solved it, when it came up last time.

[Black on Gold]

Yea i knew that. White is also a blown headgasket

[maxima278]

Jordan, were you talking to me? If so, I left the t-stat out because I was inept at putting it in. I went through 2 before I gave up and threw them in the trash. I couldn't see how to put it in without it sliding down, and did not know which way to put it in. I decided to change it out when I dropped the motor in the car, but when I disassembled the place where it goes, it fell out before I could see how it was in.

I never found a good reason to have it in there anyway, the car never seemed to run cold.

[maxima278]

So Pat, are you no longer planning to go to Switzerland? I must have missed that post...

[Black on Gold]

Nah, im still going. =)

[Black on Gold]

Here you go guys:


Modified by Black on Gold at 5:39 PM 4/24/2007

[Zee]

Yea i knew that. White is also a blown headgasket

Figured you did, but just in case. I thought I would say it.