NA to TT Swap : My Quest For Boost : Build Log

[abazz009]

ok so small update, i usually like to update with pictures of parts, but thanks to itsa300zx, and Dcaff300zx, iv looked more into the JWT line. and about 99% sure they are JWT sport 700's. my reasoning is well the inlet flanges are identical. i found someone selling a set on TT.net forever ago and mine match right up

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... -More.html

also found this Install guide which, every modification detailed in that PDF has been preformed to my engine, i noticed the shaved down engine mount support forever ago and now know exactly why it was done.

http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/TU ... 00INST.PDF

should receive another box of goodies (all my timing stuff) in a few days, im going to be relocating my knock sensor,found mine was pretty trashed so going to order another.

one thing iv been trying to decide is which adjustable fuel pressure regulator to use. originally i planned on using a tomie type-S but from what i read it should only be used with pretty much stock boosted cars... which giving all the stuff done to this engine im far from stock boost .

im going to follow a post by CZP since i will be running a walbro 485, he used a tomie type-L, when i asked if a type-S would work he said it should...but now im thinking of getting an Aeromotive 13129. it claims support to up to 1000hp.. which is well over what i would need at a decent price tag

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/de ... ol-system/

https://conceptzperformance.com/aeromot ... _16337.php

[itsa300zx]

WHy relocate the knock sensor, your engine out isn't it? oem location is best.

[abazz009]

WHy relocate the knock sensor, your engine out isn't it? oem location is best.

yeah its out, and i know that the stock location is best. i was just worried about down the road if for whatever reason i have to replace it again, i dont want to have to take the entire engine apart again. i figured leaving it in in a different location would be better then getting rid of it all together

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forum ... ation.html

[itsa300zx]

IMHO, it's a no brainer to install OEM location, when and if it fails, then relocate.
They rarely fail, chances are it won't need to be replaced for another 20 years.

I like to error on the side of caution, if the knock sensor fails to work at relocated position, you'll be pulling the engine for rebuilt.

Just my 0.03 Canadian cents.

[abazz009]

i suppose your right, if it gives me trouble down the road then i will just do the re-located then...

so today i stripped some junk off the car,these are those extra piping, one side was all jacked up due to the previous owner hitting something, i also took out the other splash guard since the other one i took off forever ago was destroyed. so now its all symmetrical. and should leave me plenty of room to mount up my Intercoolers when i do finally get to that step.
20170303_114111 by sounderror, on Flickr

i still would like to remove these pipes but since they are faux pipes they are plugging the hole. once i find large enough silicon caps i will be removing them also
20170303_114009 by sounderror, on Flickr

so all my timing stuff has arrived, nothing special its your typical 60k timing kit, with Ramsey Z idler studs, spark plugs, and accessory belts. now i get to work on that!! despite all the information on doing the timing belt im a bit stressed about it. the last time i attempted a timing belt i screwed up somehow and i never could get that car running right. luckily that was a non-interference motor so no real harm came to it till it got totoalled. this engine is a different story if i screw up, im doomed
20170303_125228 by sounderror, on Flickr

i ordered a new knock sensor today.. still on the fence about what FPR to get..still need a catch can,oil cooler,boost solenoid,boost pressure sensor,

iv been painting parts and curing them.. when i have access to the oven, Gf hates the smell (dont blame her) but i have to do that while she's not home lol

[abazz009]

so timing really is my downfall it went all great at first, im at the tensioning timing belt part. and when i turn the engine whether it clockwise or counter-clockwise the belt starts hanging off the edge of the tensioner, or the belts goes so far in it rubs on the tensioner.

20170309_113910 by sounderror, on Flickr

as you can guess im pretty much lost on how to fix this problem, iv re-started a few different times, even tried putting the old tensioner back on, as noticed my new on has this nice big crack in it....
20170309_115209 by sounderror, on Flickr

[itsa300zx]

just swap new bearing and hydraulic cylinder from new to old tensioner body. See if you can return the new cracked body for refund.

[abazz009]

well i just swapped the old body in,, but my timing belt still "walks" after a few rotations, and i dont know how to fix it and there is zero information on this problem for this car. and since noone else knows i guess im gonna put it back together and hope for the best. all my marks line up the auto tensioner gap should be about right. i dont have one of those measuring tools, but i used a ruler.

20170310_110229 by sounderror, on Flickr

20170310_110235 by sounderror, on Flickr

[DCaff300ZX]

UH, I'd under NO circumstances run that motor with the belt "walking" as you indicate...there's some issue that needs fixed or you will be fixing FAR more as you know. I would be VERY concerned with your parts supplier due to that cracked housing...WTF? Everything I got for my build was inspected 100% and returned/replaced/not used if found to be in non-compliance in ANY way, and there were a few, things that these suppliers will slip past you since most of us can never know....but that a Z32 pro will. Examples are crappy small hoses, clamps, connectors, etc.
Personally I am like you in that I do 99% of my own work....but the t-belt is not one of them, too much risk there and so a pro does it and also bears the repair/replacement risks when/if there's an issue. I wanted the front of my motor BULLETPROOF and have that, therefore no worries moving forward with my semi-heavily modified engine.
I hope others chime in here, PLEASE don't ruin your work with a hasty move like that and find someone with Nissan Z32 tbelt experience, I myself know a couple in my area and you should, too.

[abazz009]

honestly i dont want to pay some professional to do it, iv failed at a timing belt in the past and i need to conquer my fear of doing this bit of maintenance that has to be done so frequently it shouldnt be this tough. especially with the engine out of the car... no special tools theres a write up, youtube videos, i need to do this for my pride!

from here my only hope is that someone can give me some guidance on this issue. everything was replaced except the idler pulleys. my only guess is those are bad, or i some how got bad Ramey Z idler studs . iv taking off every pulley and re-installed it, re-did the belt probably going on 50 times now, i,ve both followed the guide on wiki to a T and just tried myself. watched the various youtube videos, but nothing seems to be helping

but no i dont know of any Z32 people i see a Z32 maybe once a month at best, wish i knew some..... but i dont do that whole social media thing, and a craigslist ad seems a bit sketchy...

*update*
Ok i figured it out, the reason the belt was "walking" so dramatically was.....im a bit embarrassed to say but i had a washer under the tensioner which was throwing it out of wack... now i get to struggle with getting the tension gap just right which i will go buy one of those tools and mess with it later...

[NolimitZ32]

Those injectors are definitely chopped. Check out this site for flow-ratings and some injector basics http://witchhunter.com More specifically this page http://www.witchhunter.com/subarumod1.php. And check out this thread about the sti yellows being modded https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showth ... ?t=1222836

[itsa300zx]

honestly i dont want to pay some professional to do it, iv failed at a timing belt in the past and i need to conquer my fear of doing this bit of maintenance that has to be done so frequently it shouldnt be this tough. especially with the engine out of the car... no special tools theres a write up, youtube videos, i need to do this for my pride!

from here my only hope is that someone can give me some guidance on this issue. everything was replaced except the idler pulleys. my only guess is those are bad, or i some how got bad Ramey Z idler studs . iv taking off every pulley and re-installed it, re-did the belt probably going on 50 times now, i,ve both followed the guide on wiki to a T and just tried myself. watched the various youtube videos, but nothing seems to be helping

but no i dont know of any Z32 people i see a Z32 maybe once a month at best, wish i knew some..... but i dont do that whole social media thing, and a craigslist ad seems a bit sketchy...

*update*
Ok i figured it out, the reason the belt was "walking" so dramatically was.....im a bit embarrassed to say but i had a washer under the tensioner which was throwing it out of wack... now i get to struggle with getting the tension gap just right which i will go buy one of those tools and mess with it later...

What special tool do you need to measure the tensioner gap? I just used a 3-5mm allen keys as gauging tools.

[abazz009]

Those injectors are definitely chopped. Check out this site for flow-ratings and some injector basics http://witchhunter.com More specifically this page http://www.witchhunter.com/subarumod1.php. And check out this thread about the sti yellows being modded https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showth ... ?t=1222836

very cool i wasnt able to find such good information, unfortunately it pretty much points to chopped yellow tops=crap and shouldnt be used on OBD2 cars. granted mine isnt an OBD2 but if those numbers carved into the injectors are flow numbers then they are all over the place and thats nowhere near good. this project has been all up and down. on moment i think everything will be fine the next im feeling like im wasting thousands on nothing....

the tool i was referring to that i didnt know what it was called before are feeler guages. i have my tension currently set to 3.8mm which is between the 3.5-5.4mm its supposed to be. which is the closest iv been able to get it. though now when i turn the engine with the breaker bar it screeches (which it just started doing) should i be worried about this? heres a link to a video of the sound its about 30 seconds long

https://flic.kr/p/SgUrhu

*update* its defiantly the passenger side intake pully, i moved it slightly by itself and it screeches. i also took it off again, no change to the sound. tension gap set to 3.98mm now

[abazz009]

small update, just go the engine mostly back together (squeek has mostly disappeared after putting some oil in it), still need some things put on, i somehow lost one of those upper coolant hose clamps, so i will need to pick up some more hose clamps, then mainly everything else that needs to go on will be taken off my NA engine, Alternator, Ac compressor, Power steering pump and a bunch of little things IACV system, vacuum ports, missing brackets, nuts, bolts, ect... so basically im at the point where then NA engine needs to be pulled. and since this has taken me so long... its starting to get hot outside (great). but i will have some help with the engine pull, and when i drop the new one in, he has experience with this sort of thing so i feel fortunate that he is willing to help just because. so hopefully soon i will be filling this thread with what you guys want to see a bunch of pictures of progress!! lol

New knock sensor Vs, the old cracked one, re-installed in stock position.
20170311_124223 by sounderror, on Flickr

And the engine as it looks now, when i was removing the crankshaft bolt the engine has some serious twist on the stand, i didnt bother with trying to straighten it out, im just hoping that those bolts holding the engine on there arent bent. over-all the wrinkle came out well, most worried about how it will stand up to time, and future wrenching. (i know im missing a timing cover bolt it will be remidied as this engine came with missing bolts)
20170312_123249 by sounderror, on Flickr
20170312_123320 by sounderror, on Flickr

[frapjap]

Wow man, looking good!
Congrats on finding that washer- sometimes is the simplest things, but still, better than finding out later on the hard way.

Can't wait to watch this evolve more.

[NolimitZ32]

Witchhunter talks specifically about obd2 cars because the majority of turbo Subarus in the US start out as OBD2s, the spray pattern is affected regardless, injectors are supposed to atomize the fuel for more even combustion, its never a good idea to have a stream of fuel vs a fine spray. Will it hurt, probably not but you wont be able to tune it as finely as it should be and you will always have to err on the side of rich which could over time cause issues due to wash down.

[DCaff300ZX]

Having in the past bought carbs that had special fuel atomizing features, plus just understanding as NoLimit said that fuel atomization vs. no atomization is a key element to making good power, it always has amazed me that crappy alternatives like cut injectors ever happens- it's as if that person just says "WTF, who cares"
Doing things right vs. any other way just always pays off for doing right, even if it takes longer to do, since the other ways will have you back at it in the future anyway. Better to have the right thing the first time rather than some hackjob after the third trip through.
Goes for parts as well as labor on your car, and really everything else in life...

[abazz009]

Well i defiantly dont like that fact that the injectors are cut and i completely agree with you guys, i would never do that to them. unfortunately its not in my immediate budget to replace them with a 810cc alternative (which are redrills not sure if thats much better) but they will be replaced somewhere in the time space of a year. unless i get some killer deal on an exhaust that can pass emissions...but im not holding my breath

so for the last 3 days iv been working twords pulling the NA engine, day one was spent disconnecting everything holding the engine in the car,and draining all my fluids... at this point the only thing holding the engine in was gravity and the transmission..
20170316_130743 by sounderror, on Flickr

i also pulled of the PS pump, and alternator and put them on my TT engine, i was surprised to see the difference in the mounting brackets heres some pictures if you
curious
20170316_105520 by sounderror, on Flickr
20170316_112951 by sounderror, on Flickr

out came the exhaust because its has to be takin out to remove the driveshaft. my carrier bearing is totally screwed so that will need replacing. or maybe i will get a 1 peice DS
20170317_132508 by sounderror, on Flickr
20170317_132514 by sounderror, on Flickr

the transmission came out pretty easy, i struggled with the top 2 bolts and used all sorts of swivels and extensions. which is what other people suggest.. all i needed was the socket wrench i had them both out in all of 5 mins. one side i was able to get from the top, then the other from the bottom.but that was probably because i had just about everything out of the way at this point.
20170318_104717 by sounderror, on Flickr

then came out the engine, again it was much easier then i expected, as i have never did anything like this before
20170318_114107 by sounderror, on Flickr


and heres the bay, it needs to be de-greased, that and the trans bay, im exhausted but im happy of all the progress ive been able to make, hopefully the rest continues to go smoothly
20170318_114133 by sounderror, on Flickr

[DCaff300ZX]

Congrats on your progress!
In the beaten-horse category, I really can't suggest firmly enough that you need to address those injectors, and now is the time versus later with a plumbed engine...same as 120K service...plus the fact it will not run right with those injectors and basically will ruin your efforts until you replace them. There actually are a couple of options in the 800cc range to use, my Z guy was set to use some Subie units of the correct configuration and has been done often enough and passed muster here with NoLimit who has a ton of experience in this area, but then we came upon a set of good Bosch 800's from a GT/R project to use plus we also used the not-used RB25 ECU from the GT/R for my ECU setup. Since I did not do the work I can't comment on the injector installation procedures, but looking at them I can't tell the difference from OEM other than the different connector being of the upgraded variety so it seems very similar to the OEM setup in that area, and they work GREAT.
Cost was reasonable at $5-600 (can't remember exactly, maybe even less) and moved us past those two issues, and with room for more power since 700cc is plenty for my build and I have an "extra" 100cc capacity available.
BTW, unless upgrading the engine power there's no need to go so large with the injectors (you mentioned looking for/wanting 800cc?) so I assume you are upgrading turbos, ECU, etc.? Sorry if this was already covered earlier. If not the stock TT injector size (370cc) is plenty for up to 375 HP, and 400-600 cc's plenty for up to 500 HP...so money and trouble can be saved right there finding a set of good used upgraded injectors, quite possibly right here at Nico in a part-out or otherwise...
Hope this helps!

[abazz009]

no its ok beat that horse till its good and dead lol, i defiantly would of never cut the injectors. at this very point i wont be replacing them for at least the next 8-10 monthsish, as this project goes on im having a very tough time seeing back on the road for another 3-4months at which point it will just be driving to and from class so literally less then 150miles a month (unless of course it runs terrible due to cut injectors like all the information iv been provided states) replacing the ecu with a different one (unless it can use the stock efi harness) is a bit to much for me right now. when i get to the point of buying new injectors they will probably just be some standard ones that are easy to incorporate. my reasoning for wanting to get an 810cc injector is.. thats the tune it had when i bought it and since i couldnt afford new injectors i kept that tune in hopes it will run fine and down the road i didn't want to have to spend another $50 to get a retune when i could just buy injectors of that size. but yes the turbos are upgraded, ECU is upgraded,internals are upgraded,have a boost controller, HKS BOVs, greedy sidemounts, upgraded Downpipes, personally im not looking at any HP that pump gas cant provide. and since all this stuff came with my original purchase why downgrade it. (even though running pump gas is downgrading it)

so i continued on removing everything from the bay
20170326_102748 by sounderror, on Flickr

deleted stuff like this clutch bleed line, and the anti-theft horn (which sounds like a clown car horn)
20170326_102740 by sounderror, on Flickr

Deleted all the air-bag stuff as i plan on running a different steering wheel, it also freed up quite some room, and shaved a decent amount of weight
20170330_121348 by sounderror, on Flickr

started prepping for paint by roughing it up, originally i wasnt going to remove the brake booster but i ended up painting it off the car with the wrinkle paint
20170331_123405 by sounderror, on Flickr

and heres what it looked like after, i used rustoleum hammered paint, which im almost never unhappy with how it looks. i would say it looks pretty good, regrettably i didnt lay it on thick enough which i didnt notice until 2 days later when i started putting stuff back in the bay... luckily its easy to touch up, and in the future i just have to treat the paint like its rice paper...
20170406_122409 by sounderror, on Flickr

relocated that sensor whos name eludes me at the moment, and installed the doolz, which probably could of waited, but i was eager to get them out of my house, also put all my AC lines back together with fresh o-rings, i put in the AC sub fan which is the 2 speed TT version, i still have to add that relay and wire it up luckily there is a good writeup on this (here if your interested http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... sions.html) . my only concern is getting the Full relay with the pigtails, which i suppose any nissan within the 90's in the junkyard should work for this cause as i never see z32 parts cars and if i do they are N/A's
20170414_123210 by sounderror, on Flickr

i rewrapped most of the engine harness if f4 tape just to make it look nice iv blown through 120feet of it and i still need a bit more...
20170414_123228 by sounderror, on Flickr

now again im stuck with the intercooler piping, iv studied the diagrams and was able to find some semi- helpful pictures they should go into the car like this, problem is the Ac condenser is in the way of where the Recirc valves (or BOVs in my case would go)
20170416_124104 by sounderror, on Flickr

is the NA ac condenser wider then a TT one (when i searched they look the same some are just r-12 or r-134a though in a picture lower it does look much more narrow)? or am i just missing somthing else. the more i stare at those pictures the more it looks like it is.. i swore i remember reading somewhere that the NA ac system could be "massaged" to work in a TT swap. and if i need to actually find all those TT AC bits im screwed...

20170416_124133 by sounderror, on Flickr

any help would be appreciated heres what i have been staring at to try and figure it out.

[abazz009]

ok heres that post i was talking about apparently i need a TT Ac condenser, anyone selling one? so much disappointment...

ac-question-for-the-ppl-that-have-done- ... 70454.html

[DCaff300ZX]

Not sure about the NA/TT part, but when I repaired my front end the first time I needed to replace the condenser and a few lines and just used NA parts I was able to get in a junkyard. I say replaced but I never refilled or updated the system to R13 as A/C just isn't needed here in Wa. state much, so I can't comment on if it works, but it does all plug in correctly.
So that's an option if you are not planning on actually using the A/C.

[NolimitZ32]

NA and TT parts (condensor, rad, lines, etc.) are different. As long as the system is fully evacuated you can switch from R12 to R134a

[abazz009]

ok so progress has been slow to say the least. but more on that with the pictures . anyways i bought the Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator its a Tomei Type L with my defi pressure sensor installed. still need to order all the fuel line.
20170419_181616 by sounderror, on Flickr

took me about 2 weeks to find one of these then another 2 weeks for it to finally arrive at my doorstep.found it for cheap ($80) so i cant complain to much. the AC condenser is WAY smaller and heres the only picture on the net showing them side by side. it does fit with the NA lines (more on that later) but you need to bend some tubing to make it work.
20170504_075954 by sounderror, on Flickr

i mounted up my intercoolers and the piping, as for the intercooler piping 1 of the mounting holes is present so it can be mounted(like it would of been on a TT from the factory) but you will find that you need to bend some AC lines and the power steering hardline to get it all to work, PS line was bent out and up i did this on both sides... but the NA AC and the P/S lines are, so far working for me. but it all lines up nice just have to order some elbow type couplers and i should be golden!

20170504_095104 by sounderror, on Flickr

then the the other is pretty much a straight shot, im hoping to find a coupler long enough to avoid spending the money on the "Z1" silicon kit. this also shows how iv mounted my IC. just straight to where the tow hitch is nice and easy. though depending on the compler i may need to put a spacer to brind it farther out which would also require a longer bolt but im hoping that wont be necessary.

20170504_094825 by sounderror, on Flickr

as you can see the other side isnt connected to anything i need to get some bracket made up, it just needs to be twice as long as that one then it will mount where that other bracket is. i will have to browse the hardware store and see what i can find, of hit up someone with a plasma cutter/cnc machine

20170504_094840 by sounderror, on Flickr

installed my lightweight flywheel
20170507_092216 by sounderror, on Flickr

then my Z1 street performance clutch
20170507_095218 by sounderror, on Flickr

then as i was removing an uneeded mounting bracket on thes intercooler pipe it slipped and i put a small hole in it should of just let the bracket be... but i had to f*** with it . so now i need to find someone to patch this for me, which the hole is tiny and i assume wouldnt take much more the running a bead over the top but i will find someone locally and hopefully they can fix my mistake for less then $20.

20170507_112504 by sounderror, on Flickr

i was supposed to drop the engine in the car but it started raining... so more waiting all i know is i cant wait to get that damn engine out of my yard and in the car,

[abazz009]

Well the engine is in the car! hooked up all of the engine harness i noticed i have a few extra connectors, for my AIV,EVAP, and waste-gate solenoids. cant decide if i should cut those off or just tuck them away. the 2 related to the evap will defiantly get cut, but the other 2 are useless to me since im using upgraded waste-gates... decisions ,decisions....

anyways not much has happened iv noticed im missing accordion pipes, still havent fixed my hole in my intercooler piping and still need to order a bunch of other small junk (silicon couplers/pipes, Fuel line, tension fuel clamps, mounting hardware) . so probably wont have another update for a little bit as other large unexpected expenses have taken priority.

one note to anyone doing the swap or dropping in an engine, take off 1 downpipe it will make dropping the engine in much easier!

20170514_125359 by sounderror, on Flickr
not sure this was an update was worth posting but i am excited to have the engine in the car!

[abazz009]

Ok! so an update is long over-due i have been doing little things here and there but hadnt taken pictures so i will bring it up to where i am now!

firstly here are some of the parts i bought and installed (others already installed and never snapped pictures of) i was missing the accordion pipes so i just decided to get the Z1 silicon ones, they are nice though i wish they came with T-clamps and the option to not have ports on them. then finished off my bay with the rest of the Z1 silicon. almost every line and plug under the hood is now silicon except, the one power steering hose the "formed" one. im still kicking myself for not changing that one out when the engine was out but i guess when it gets to bad i will replace it. it does have brand new hose on it now. also in this picture is a metal door lock actuator as mine is broken so unlocking the car from the driver side will be nice haha...
20170603_085757 by sounderror, on Flickr

my intercooler piping is now completely plumbed! also i made this bracket, its just a 8inch straight bracket piece (for fences) that i modified, the intercoolers are now pretty stiff.

20170614_103738 by sounderror, on Flickr

i didnt buy the Z1 kit for the intercoolers i used generic ebay stuff, but the elbows did need modification to fit right, i spent just over $60 to piece it together with T clamps versus, the $124+ shipping now and would of still probably had to modify the elbows im not sure my intercoolers are mounted the same they are on others cars...
20170601_113855 by sounderror, on Flickr


i replaced my dust boot on the transmission im sure you can tell why lol....

20170603_090838 by sounderror, on Flickr

and now the transmission is all ready to be put in, new bearing and chromoly pivot ball in place!
20170603_093126 by sounderror, on Flickr

ignore the fact thats its dusty :p but this shows that almost everything is plumbed, i ditched the Z1 hardpipes (which i have for sale) in place of the genaric ebay silicone ones. i did this mainly to help prevent boost leaks and these are so much easier to take off!. they fit good though the ones that go to the the throttle body could of been at least 1/2 inch longer to make installing them easier. also my mishimoto radiator is in along with the Z1 hardpipe kit. the CZP cover rad cover/duct was ment for a TT... so the holes didnt match up... i just used some self tapping screws to mount it in problem solved! i have my defi coolant sensor mounted in the rad, also my adjustable FPR and fuel lines are all ran. which i know will probably piss off someone as i didnt use the spring type fuel clamps....which i agree i should of but that will be on the future replace list.. next time im in PHX i will pick them up from CZP . but the fuel lines are gates barricade. and yes i got rid of the hardline on the plenum. also the fuel filter is backwards so i could run the lines without any major turns that would kink the line, not the prettiest but oh well.
20170625_103944 by sounderror, on Flickr

heres where i mounted my apexi boost sensor
20170625_104129 by sounderror, on Flickr

and here is where i decided to mount my 19 row oil cooler, it does clear the bumper though just barely. i had to clip off some other the plastic that helps hold in that black grill. also for where the 90 degree fitting are i have to carve out some room for them. (which i will show you at some point). i still have yet to buy hose to actually plumb this up but i also need some reducers are the line coming from the oil cooler is much larger then the on from the stock oil tree..
another reason i put it here is to help diffuse (also because it didnt fit anywhere else) the air so that i can hopefully skip doing the flower pot mod. which i may be able to skip since i wont be rocking the JDM or any other large mouthed bumper cover.
20170625_104038 by sounderror, on Flickr


my boost solinoid is under the nose panel, but this gives you an idea of how crowded it is under there, and i still have to put back in the AC dryer which should fit. the BOV's where an insanely tight sight, hopefully they wont become a rattle. and you can see how i bent my power steering hardline to get things to fit... i also ran that extra wire up the the relay box so when i get that relay i can finish the 2 speed fan conversion. (the wires are soldered with a butt connector over them for that extra.. looking at them now i should go cover them in tape also...


and thats really it, i need to run wires from the sensors to gauges, i still need to install my fuel pump, plumb my oil cooler,my catch can, transmission still needs to go in (which iv attempted twice the car cant be put up high enough on the jack stands i have to allow me to fit the transmission on the jack underneath the car. also my jack doesnt jack the car up high enough unless i add blocks of wood. which we all know is stupid and has led to the car falling off the jack stands multiple times (no major damage luckily) . so i need both a larger jack and taller jack stands. or the want to just pay someone else who has the right tools to do it for me (which considering my experience with jacks and stands this far is most likely what i will be doing)

[abazz009]

Quick question (to anyone looking,, hopefully someone)! can i put power to the car without re-installing my transmission? such as my negative cable isnt grounded to the transmission like it normally would be, i dont think the transmission will go back anytime soon due to me failing at it multiple times, and i would like to work on some different things that require power in the car. thanks

[NolimitZ32]

Absolutely, just install the ground ti the block with one of the bolts.

[abazz009]

Cool thank you nolimit! was gonna do that then decided to give the transmission install another try! with no luck, not sure why i cant get it to go back in. the alignment tool still goes in just fine, i have a bit of oil on the tip and grease on the splines. its driving me freaking insane!! this is my fourth or fifth attempt. and i cant get it to go any further then this...

20170706_121100 by sounderror, on Flickr

and heres the back bracket

20170706_121107 by sounderror, on Flickr

i did manage to get one bolt in to help line it up better, but that hardly helped. even tried basically bench pressing it in, so anyone have any tips on getting the trans back in? i was under the car for about 4 hours today. getting the engine in took about an hour granted i did have help.

[NolimitZ32]

It takes a lot of finesse and 10 times as much cursing, this to me is the most dreaded part of the swap, I've done it 3 different ways and stabbing it from the bottom, to me, is the easiest way but you need help. Easiest way I have done it is with 3 people. 2 under the car lifting and one up top aligning.