NA to TT Swap : My Quest For Boost : Build Log

The Nissan 300ZX (Z32) general community discussion forum
abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Hey everyone Heres my story.....

about a year ago i saw a red 93 300zx NA, which was rough all around but not terrible the guy i bought it from started to fix it up, he started with a suspension re-fresh.. new injectors ect.... but working on this car put him into debt (auto title loan) so thats where i came in a bought the car and took over bringing the car back to life.

Heres the earliest picture i have of it

Image20160401_134640 by sounderror, on Flickr

At this point i had just removed the bubbling tint on the front windows, and was removing the rats nest of wires from an audio system that was no longer there. i wish i had a picture of the wires i removed but it was a hack job to say the least.

Next i fixed its idle problem, which was a busted coil pack boot, replaced spark plug seals, a few other seals, cracked coil pack connectors, cleaned the IACV system added the Z1 Hoses, under plenum water hose delete, along with half a EGR delete, charcoal canister delete, you know all the normal deletes.ran great through the summer heat no real issues

Image20161203_113536 by sounderror, on Flickr

Just some more pictures before i type more story

Image20161203_112954 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20161203_112908 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20161203_113406 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20161203_113458 by sounderror, on Flickr

Deleted the rear wiper....
Image20161023_104026 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20161023_105648 by sounderror, on Flickr

and the interior is torn out as i was working on fixing the AC which is on hold at the moment...

Image20161203_113124 by sounderror, on Flickr

now about a month ago i decide to do a compression test because i was about to do the full 120k maintenance and drop a bunch more money into it. i find i have low compression on 3 of my 6 cylinders. at this point i was just considering doing an engine rebuild since a TT swap was out of my budget since the only motors where the imports which you know how those go lol... (also shout out to Nolimit for giving his guidance on this issue)

So as i prepare and read up on this engine rebuild i see an ad on Craigslist... its very vague "300zx engine for sale, ran when i pulled it" $300 . from the pictures i noticed it was a TT engine, but he made no mention of that in the ad. so i get in contact with him and make a date to well buy it.....at that point i figured it was to cheap to pass up. this led me on a 2 hour drive to Phoenix in a truck i had rented from home depot. so i show up and he loads it up into my truck then says he has intercoolers and piping which he wants $50 for so i figured well stock side mounts why not so i pay him then he just starts collecting tons of stuff stuffing it into box's and bags. at this point i have no idea what all was givin to me and i didnt much care i just wanted to get home...

so its about 12 at night and i finally get everything into the back yard where it sat for the night. next morning i went and inspected what i had just spent my money on so now for the pictures!

Image20161203_110404 by sounderror, on Flickr


lightweight pully. +1
Image20161203_110418 by sounderror, on Flickr

yellow top Nismo fuel injectors (555cc), upgraded fuel rail???
Image20161203_110459 by sounderror, on Flickr

Z1 powersteering hose....
Image20161203_110536 by sounderror, on Flickr


Image20161203_110550 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20161203_110603 by sounderror, on Flickr

As you can tell some stuff is bent... such as these (not sure on what they are called) on both sides but this one is worse

Image20161203_110629 by sounderror, on Flickr

Now i started going through the boxes to find Dual Pop, with dual MAF, also greedy side mounts not the stock like i originally thought...

Image20161203_111255 by sounderror, on Flickr

A beat up koyo Rad and CZP top bracket..

Image20161203_111459 by sounderror, on Flickr

a bunch of stock piping Z1 hardlines, AC condenser fan and a pair of T-Top bags,

Image20161203_111839 by sounderror, on Flickr

a spare plenum that someone started grinding down to be polished

Image20161203_112031 by sounderror, on Flickr

and a set of headlights with HID (unknown color Temp)
Image20161203_111343 by sounderror, on Flickr

Defi gauges in pillar pod (unsure if they are legit defi or not they look in between fake and real) Turbo timer, boost controller,HKS BOV's, Tuned ECU its tough to make out but it was possibly tuned 2 different times why its torn off is unknown guess i will find out eventually. one little box is for the stock suspesion in a TT no use to me, then the medium box i have no clue what it is.. lol

Image20161203_115203 by sounderror, on Flickr

heres the engine harness..

Image20161203_115215 by sounderror, on Flickr

thats everything i got with my engine purchase as you can tell i got way more then what i paid for very lucky :dblthumb:

also picked up this TT front bumper $100

Image20161203_112044 by sounderror, on Flickr

and my black friday shopping on both Z1 and CZP, Walbro 485, TT performance clutch kit with all the upgrades and the TT flywheel. Shim plate for starter, the Z1 engine mounts, the Z1 shortshifter, then those connectors where things i never got around to installing on my NA so those will be added to my TT harness.

Image20161203_120300 by sounderror, on Flickr

i think all im missing for the swap is an oil cooler.... and maintenance type stuff... or at least thats what im hoping... (input welcome)

oh and a bought an engine stand which the engine was supposed to be on in the pictures but i never bought and bolts to attach the engine to it anyone know the size i need? so gotta figure that out.

Image20161203_112559 by sounderror, on Flickr

i know pretty much nothing about the engine i bought, the guy bought it from a running car which he drove and apparently pulled the engine out afterwards, he said the guy wanted more power so probably a V8 swap, the guy i got it from was going to swap it into some older truck then lost interest... so it has sat for about a year, in his garage. he said that it was rebuilt by the guy he bought it from at some point (who knows) and the car it came out of had 190k so idk, im hoping on the rebuild being the truth.... from the mods i would say its very possible but i wont know till i crack it open and inspect it....oil cap is clean and from what i can see inside looks extremely clean but im a noob when it comes to engines..


Ronie300zx
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:34 pm
Car: Nissan 300zx red N/A

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nice you came up big lol I just came up on a twin turbo engine myself for $800 I'm in the process to start getting parts for it to install it in my NA

everpresentnoob
Posts: 152
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:29 am
Car: 1990 300zx Base. Manual and abused by previous owner....

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You wanna sell a set of stock Headlights? Dont need bulbs or anything... But Im sick of my JDM crap that has the projector cut off going the wrong way...

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Ronie300zx wrote:nice you came up big lol I just came up on a twin turbo engine myself for $800 I'm in the process to start getting parts for it to install it in my NA
thank you, sounds like you also got a good deal! did you plan on starting a build log? if so let me know i will for sure follow it.
everpresentnoob wrote:You wanna sell a set of stock Headlights? Dont need bulbs or anything... But Im sick of my JDM crap that has the projector cut off going the wrong way...
yea i will sell a set but the passenger side one has a rock chip in it which you can sorta see in the pictures

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Wow, looks serious and you did come away with some great stuff for $300, even if you do need a lot of TLC here and there.
Go slow with your swap/build and be SURE you're good with all of the little details, it will make ALL of the difference with whether this works well for you or not- unlike the guy you got this all from.
Also, a Z32 guru to at least talk to will go a LONG way towards helping you with the little stuff that's so hard to question about here, and methods to do some things easier (VG30DETT experience) along the way and possibly add to your enjoyment such as some careful exhaust porting and more...good luck!

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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DCaff300ZX wrote:Wow, looks serious and you did come away with some great stuff for $300, even if you do need a lot of TLC here and there.
Go slow with your swap/build and be SURE you're good with all of the little details, it will make ALL of the difference with whether this works well for you or not- unlike the guy you got this all from.
Also, a Z32 guru to at least talk to will go a LONG way towards helping you with the little stuff that's so hard to question about here, and methods to do some things easier (VG30DETT experience) along the way and possibly add to your enjoyment such as some careful exhaust porting and more...good luck!
thank you, defiantly alot of TLC all over the place, apparently i like punishing myself. unfortunately i dont know any other z32 anyone. so im sure this build will be full of frustration.... i was hoping to find some help on here but like you said its not always easy to describe or get help with certain things.

No updates yet, still have to make my way to homedepot or ace hardware to buy some bolts to get the engine on the stand.

thanks for stopping in!

everpresentnoob
Posts: 152
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:29 am
Car: 1990 300zx Base. Manual and abused by previous owner....

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Sent PM about headlights.

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
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Nice buy on te engine stuff, those DP are worth twice what you paid:)
Reminds me of the TT I bought for my swap for $600. In the trunk, it had over $600 of OEM engine/gaskets parts.

You need M10x1.5 bolts 4-5" long?

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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itsa300zx wrote:Nice buy on te engine stuff, those DP are worth twice what you paid:)
Reminds me of the TT I bought for my swap for $600. In the trunk, it had over $600 of OEM engine/gaskets parts.

You need M10x1.5 bolts 4-5" long?
are they? damn thats awesome! i hadnt much looked into them all i know is they are either third generation or 4th generation haven't looked much more into it yet. thanks for posting up the bolt sizes! and it sounds like you also got a good deal!

now on for my very small update...


figured out the bolt size i needed from searching around, then went to home depot and bought 4 grade 8 at 80mm in length..... total of just over 10$
Image20161210_093607 by sounderror, on Flickr

2 of those home depot bolts started to bend as soon as i put weight on it... so i bailed on using those. and searched around town until i was able to find grade 10 bolts which i did eventually find at a place called meryls.. also spent less then 8$ (ignore the cheap angle grinder for some reason i thought i needed it). also 80mm is to long i ended up using a ton of washers i would recommend 3 70mm and 1 80mm. i bought 3 80mm and 1 100mm because one of the mount holes goes straight through so i used a nut to torque it down tight.
Image20161214_143850 by sounderror, on Flickr

Now the engine is on the stand! havent had any time to do anything else, today is my last final at class... then i should actually start getting things done! :dblthumb:
Image20161215_100810 by sounderror, on Flickr

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Ok i have been slowly making progress so i saved up a bit of work nothing drastic!

i started by removing the plenum the water piping is still there, which i plan on cutting all out, also noted that both the EGR system and the PCV sytem have been deleted by the previous owner which is fine by me since i would of did that anyways.

Image20170105_123101 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20170105_124737 by sounderror, on Flickr

cracked open all the valve covers, but have no experience to tell me how this looks seems nice and clean? all i know is removing gasket maker is a pain!

Image20170107_113625 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20170107_120322 by sounderror, on Flickr

Spark plug tunnels out,a few of those seals are possibly old that lost pieces and were reused, which one was missing all together along with the runner seals on the top, oh and 1 bolt short. i will be replacing all that rubber as soon as it comes in.

Image20170107_120353 by sounderror, on Flickr

Pulled all the plugs, they all look (somewhat) equally fouled, not much experience there but from what i do know if they all look the same thats usually a good sign, also they arent the typical NGK plugs, they are actually Bosch r6 fr7kii33x iridium. any thoughts on these plugs? i was planning on replacing them with the standard TT: PFR6B-11B but should i worry about that now or after the first start?

Image20170107_120344 by sounderror, on Flickr

painted the valve covers with the VHT wrinkle plus i really like the look of that stuff and most of the engine will be painted with it,

Image20170113_121104 by sounderror, on Flickr

Now some deletes weren't fulling done like the under plenum water lines, and im pretty sure this is the PCV line that runs around the back of the engine, if someone would verify that for me i would be greatly appreciative as i dont want to just cut s*** off then realize later i need it lol (which i have done)
Image20170113_120929 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170113_120959 by sounderror, on Flickr


Also both heater core lines are screwed!! this one rusted out and has a hole in it, and the other is all bent up, so now i need replacements, anyone parting out a car? i have yet to find a single TT being parted out locally, maybe i will give Z1 a call, i know Concept Z sells brand new ones..... but i would rather save some money on some nice used ones..

Image20170113_122844 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20170113_122918 by sounderror, on Flickr

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NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
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Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
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Couple things:
1. I would stick with the OEM plugs, the VG requires a longer nose plug than most standard plugs for proper spark delivery.
2. A properly functioning PCV system is essential to proper engine operation. I would recommend sourcing and installing the entire PCV system back in with an aftermarket catch can as these engines are known for dumping oil into the PCV system under hard cornering.

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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[quote="NolimitZ32"]Couple things:
1. I would stick with the OEM plugs, the VG requires a longer nose plug than most standard plugs for proper spark delivery.
2. A properly functioning PCV system is essential to proper engine operation. I would recommend sourcing and installing the entire PCV system back in with an aftermarket catch can as these engines are known for dumping oil into the PCV system under hard cornering

Cool i will defiantly go for the OEM plugs to prevent any issues there, as for the PCV system less then 100 would put that back in place with the Z1 pipes and fresh valves or less since i have 2 sets of used PCV valves. i thought that installing a catch can was more of a deleted PCV system thing? iv read through all the delete/ reroute PCV threads on TT,Wiki,ect. it does seem to be a touchy subject, some thinking its necessary, others thinking its perfectly safe to delete. but i wont cut off the pipe and hold off on that for now, since the plenum isnt going back on for a little while longer.


ok so, picked up some long reach hex keys and started removing the timing cover, i was hoping for a kevlar belt :P i know it will need to be replaced anyways (even if it was a kevlar belt) but i am trying to do the bare minimum at the moment..... since i have nothing but i strangers word telling me this engine runs great... so i planned on worrying about 120k maintenance after i had got it in the car and started.

Image20170114_130239 by sounderror, on Flickr

the upper water pipes themselves werent too crusty, but there is some build up here any recommendations on flushing/cleaning the cooling system with the engine on a stand?, i also removed the thermostat which has no nissan markings just an F.T and 62 degrees C

Image20170114_130253 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20170114_130419 by sounderror, on Flickr

Image20170114_130424 by sounderror, on Flickr

thats all for now, unfortunately its raining outside so i can really get anything done,

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NolimitZ32
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The PCV system in a nutshell burns off the gasses created in the crankcase when 1. oil is heated during operation, and 2. combustion gasses escape past the rings. In essence you can vent a PCV system to atmosphere but you open the crankcase to minimal moisture infiltration and you pollute the environment. Both are minor but IMO if there is anything you can do to cut out even the most minor source of air pollution since its very likely that you're running no cats especially if you're TT and already dumping a ton of crap into the air.

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DCaff300ZX
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I can't fathom the idea of doing 120K inside the car, when you have a pic of the motor just begging for the new belt and RameyZ studs, etc....you must have sadistic tendencies.

abazz009
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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been slowly doing things mainly de-greasing the engine, started taking bent stuff off and been making a new shopping list which adds up real quick! lol

decided to flip over the engine to remove the oil pan, i was curious what the bottom end looked like, though honestly iv never taking an oil pan off before and it was a pain, the RTV was like glue! some other notes i lost a bit of clean coolant while flipping it over which has made me feel better about the cooling system in general.

i had checked for play in both turbos they both had little to no play in them from what i read thats a good sign, though one turbo leaked out a little bit of oil,which since they both didnt do it im assuming is a bad sign. any input there would be great.
Image20170204_101713 by sounderror, on Flickr


heres what i was greeted with with the oil pan off, pistons, rods ,look to be new, bolts say "eagle ARP 2000" on them the rods have "S8 11 06668" on them i couldn't see any marking on the pistons but they looked as brand new as the rest of it. i googled the numbers on the rods with no luck, any clue on what brand they are?

Image20170204_104129 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170204_102937 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170204_102855 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170204_102313 by sounderror, on Flickr

also decided to open up the ECU to make an attempt at figuring more about the tune, its an ash spec, not sure what the 810CC is telling me,(im guessing somthing to do with the injectors) but 5spd is obvious, also the "DI" im guessing is for the dual intake, 93 oct, which is gas that i wont have easy access to, and the Dw #1 inj have no clue what that means, i will have to get it re-tuned or a new chip all together just because i need the octane to be 91, i want something i can actually drive places not a race car..

Image20170129_095322 by sounderror, on Flickr

so thats where im at as of now, will defiantly be making another big parts purchase soon, timing stuff,silicon lines,new pipes, ect.. also will be pulling the transmission out of the car soon as i need some flywheel bolts so that i can remove the drive pully, i dont have an inpact gun

itsa300zx
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Rods are Eagle brand, you can see the stamp on your photo of the bolts.
Ash spec can reflash the chip for $50 to any parameters you need.


Odd that the eprom 810cc inj size do not match what you say on the yellow top 555cc inj.

Maybe DW means Detchwerks redrilled 810 size injectors; because 810cc is not your standard off the shelf size. (555, 615, 740 are normal)

SleepyN/A
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This is awesome man keep us posted

abazz009
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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itsa300zx wrote:Rods are Eagle brand, you can see the stamp on your photo of the bolts.
Ash spec can reflash the chip for $50 to any parameters you need.


Odd that the eprom 810cc inj size do not match what you say on the yellow top 555cc inj.

Maybe DW means Detchwerks redrilled 810 size injectors; because 810cc is not your standard off the shelf size. (555, 615, 740 are normal)

Cool thank you, i had googled the numbers on the bolts to find you could just buy the bolts,which did make me wonder, but since i didnt totally disassemble the engine i will just assume that the engine was rebuilt at some point (nice to know that wasn't a lie)
The injectors are yellow and have a part number of "a46-00" and what looks like a UI. looking at the nismo 555cc on CZP they match up.
https://conceptzperformance.com/nismo-1 ... _p_847.php
and heres my pictures
Image20170208_144721 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170208_144746 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170208_144815 by sounderror, on Flickr


on the metal casing of the ECU where you would typically find all your tuning information has been either torn off or black out with a marker. the blacked out ones are jim wolf technologies and you can see, "POP Upgrade package,90-94 300zx Turbo, use with 555CC injector"

Image20170208_151357 by sounderror, on Flickr


Now the bigger one which has been torn off and actually looks like it it was on there before the JWT one, really isnt legible at all. but you can make out what looks to be Detchwerks.........and a little farther "NIS"

Image20170208_151518 by sounderror, on Flickr

Now i will be getting in contact with ash spec,and hopefully they will be able to give me a full run down on the tune thats on the installed chip, with making the change to 91 octane fuel. hopefully soon the "DW #1 injector" will be a solved mystery!
SleepyN/A wrote:This is awesome man keep us posted
thanks you for joining in will defiantly be sharing my experience

abazz009
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Ok so no word from Ash spec as of yet i only emailed him 3 days ago which im sure he is busy though i am anxious to hear back from him. since itsa300zx told me about the possibility of re-drilled injectors iv been worried about that(from what iv read they are not good)... so i decided to take out injector #1... from here iv learned that i have new style injectors (lol probably should of already knew that) another thing i noticed while taking it out is that all my injectors have "hand" numbers carved on them?? i googled that with no real results so anyone know what these numbers are telling me? they are as follows
Inj #1- 178
Inj #2- 140
Inj #3 - 73
Inj #4 - 97
Inj #5 - 47
Inj #6 - 50
and heres a picture of the first one
Image20170211_101959 by sounderror, on Flickr

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NolimitZ32
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Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
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Post a picture of the injector tip. A lot of subaru guys will cut of the tip which essentially turns the STI yellow tops from 520 to something around 850. Doing so destroys the spray pattern and is pretty easy to tell if it's been done. Do some research on that.

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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NolimitZ32 wrote:Post a picture of the injector tip. A lot of subaru guys will cut of the tip which essentially turns the STI yellow tops from 520 to something around 850. Doing so destroys the spray pattern and is pretty easy to tell if it's been done. Do some research on that.
hey no limit, heres some pictures of the tip, they dont look to be modified to me. but that modification sounds horrible lol i couldnt imagine cutting up an 800$ set of injectors. i only ended up finding one picture of a modified injector "sti yellow" but heres my pictures and the picture i found

Image20170213_101620 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170213_101626 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170213_101642 by sounderror, on Flickr


http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/31 ... or_tip.jpg

also to reply toy our other post, i do plan on running a catalytic converter in my exhaust, i do have to be able to get it past emissions,when the time comes. also thanks for helping i do appreciate it.

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frapjap
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Sweet thread man! Mind if I put it up on our facebook site to see if some others might be able to help you out?

abazz009
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frapjap wrote:Sweet thread man! Mind if I put it up on our facebook site to see if some others might be able to help you out?
thanks for joining in! and yeah thats cool with me i personally dont use facebook, but if it helps bring people here for advice im all for it! :dblthumb:


also yea im guessing they where cut :frown: (comparing pictures more carefully) which doesnt make me happy but i suppose that would explain the 810cc tune, so i guess i will have to stick with a tune like that as i cant afford to replace the injectors....

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
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[email protected] wrote:
frapjap wrote:Sweet thread man! Mind if I put it up on our facebook site to see if some others might be able to help you out?
thanks for joining in! and yeah thats cool with me i personally dont use facebook, but if it helps bring people here for advice im all for it! :dblthumb:


also yea im guessing they where cut :frown: (comparing pictures more carefully) which doesnt make me happy but i suppose that would explain the 810cc tune, so i guess i will have to stick with a tune like that as i cant afford to replace the injectors....
You are prob right, IIRC the 550cc yellow inj had 4 small holes at the tips. Those are definatly opened up.
I'm curious as to how they idle

abazz009
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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yeah hopefully they idle normal... i have no experience with cut injectors, but i guess when i have it up in running i will lol... anyways i chatted with Coz at CZP hoping to find some answers so that i can get a new ECU chip. he told me my injectors arent nismo but instead are AUS 550CC injectors, which is a disappointment but since they sell them they cant be all that bad!
https://conceptzperformance.com/aus-inj ... _15233.php

he also wasn't sure on what those carved in numbers meant, all he said is it was for "testing purposes" and his guess about the "Dw #1" was that DW means "Detchwerks"
i also asked if the year mattered for the tune and he said "not really" so i guess i can just say the engine is a 93 even though i dont know what year it actually is.

ash spec still hasnt gotten back to me and i feel doubtful that he will at all.. but on the bright side i got some new parts in the mail today! still waiting on some more random bits from ebay, then i will be ordering another batch of stuff from CZP soon.


nothing to fancy just bits and pieces to replace what was bent or rusted out, along with silicon so that i never have to worry about replacing them again. also the conversion bracket for the radiator. just missing a few other things for the swap such as an oil cooler, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator,boost solenoid and a catch can.

Image20170216_120705 by sounderror, on Flickr

abazz009
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Ok got some more done also made another purchase so im waiting on that mainly a bunch a gaskets so i can put the engine more back together. iv been holding off on showing off the motor with all its new and painted bits.... but its defiantly looking pretty good!

anyways i cleaned and re-wrapped the alternator-transmission harness.... i used F4 silicon tape should hold up nicely and add a bit of protection. i only needed to make 2 repairs as one wire broke (single wire to oil pressure connector?) another i accidentally cut. and the third is just a ground that was cut so it needs a new eyelet. luckly iv been soldering for some time making all repairs easy just need to find the right size eyelet
before
Image20170218_083520 by sounderror, on Flickr
after
Image20170218_113523 by sounderror, on Flickr

i also started going over the EFI harness which is in really good shape, either the car was garage kept its whole life or it was replaced. i wrapped some bits with the F4 tape, also wanted to relocate the PTU so i made the appropriate adjustments.
Image20170219_113037 by sounderror, on Flickr
just look how new this wire looks
Image20170219_113007 by sounderror, on Flickr

and 40$ on ebay, to replace mine which is broken. parts cars are really rare for me and the ones i do find have all the same issues mine does.
Image20170223_120621 by sounderror, on Flickr

not much has happened, i was putting the car and jack stands and ramps.. when a jack stand tipped on me. so now im all paranoid and need to get bases for my jack stand so they dont sink into the dirt. i wanted to have the car running in about a month from now so we will see...

abazz009
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:13 am

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Ok so i got in my order of gaskets, a flywheel bolt so that i can get the Drive pulley off without pulling the transmission. also got a new ECU chip with a ( Twin Turbo || Manual || 1993 || 810cc || AUS || Federal 91 Octane || Dual or Doolz) tune....im a bit worried about the Doolz option as i have read it usually gives you hesitation and high speed stalling without doing a flow pot mod, but my original Y piece is cracked pretty badly. and you cant deny the Dual look way more bad a**...lol
Image20170226_083613 by sounderror, on Flickr

Ok so while trying to put on my turbo oil line gaskets, i realize they dont fit.... these are OEM gaskets.... because i thought my turbos where OEM... turns out they arent... which does make me happy! but wasted what 12 bucks? on the wrong gaskets.. sucks... according to item descriptions i need some garrett turbo gaskets which has a tighter bolt pattern.. which was my problem...

So what turbos are these?? i really dont know as the markings on them dont point to anything particular when i search..... they dont look like stock or any other "normal" turbo upgrades. the closest they look like are the famous "disco potatoes" but where the turbo inlet pipe connects looks different. but it looks the most right compared to the others because its a 2-piece.. instead of a solid if you know what i mean..
Image20170226_093550 by sounderror, on Flickr
Image20170226_093601 by sounderror, on Flickr

So i searched the waste-gate Actuator because those still have stickers on them, and they are 12-15psi ones which is what the CZP disco potato kits comes with. also the kit comes with braided lines, which are on my engine... another thing is i have a 5 bolt downpipe.... which is another thing pointing at them being Garrett GT2860R "disco potatoes"
Image20170226_093650 by sounderror, on Flickr

also the kit comes with fully silicon oil pan lines.. mine are still the stock hardlines.. but my passenger side has been cut so that they can still fit the stock sized small hoses that go to the oil pan.
Image20170226_104615 by sounderror, on Flickr

so does anyone know? regardless i know what gaskets i have to buy. but knowing what turbos they are should help with me figuring out where i want to put my boost levels. i was planning on running maybe 10-12psi.. but that was when i thought they were stock. granted it wont make a huge difference since iv read its not safe to run over 16psi on 91 octane. any help is appreciated thanks in advanced!

User avatar
frapjap
Posts: 13175
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy
Location: South Coast Massachusetts

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Well, thats a pretty sweet find if they're upgraded turbos!
I'm sure someone here will be able to ID them.

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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IIRC, that compressor inlet flange looks like JWT sport 700 turbos. (aka 2860 disco ))

User avatar
DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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I agree, it looks very much like my JWT 530's inlet and the oil feed line looks the same as well.


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