NA to TT Swap : My Quest For Boost : Build Log

[abazz009]

Hey so a buddy of mine had a mid 90's impala ss that he replaced the fp with a 255 and it did what yours did every few months and it did it without blowing up. it melted contacts in and outside the tank and it didnt matter what gauge wire we ran to it, something melted one way or another. only car id ever seen that would consistently do that.

As for your car, from what i can guess is that you have had a slow fault and your bulk head might not be the only part of the circuit thats done some burning. I would do two things; i would test for voltage at the power wire to the pump while its disconnected and while the pump is out, i would power it up to make sure that it runs and all is gravy.

As for your float, id be happy to pull one out of one of my parts cars and send it to you

Well damn! sounds like im gonna become a pro at taking out the fuel pump if that becomes the case for me, i followed this guide on CZP im pretty sure i posted it already but maybe not

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/de ... -addendum/

i see in a new comment on that article someone else also had an issue with there well nut connection burning up, which is what mine did sorta... it never made contact with the bulkhead though, he added another fuse right in line with the power for the pump, also another comment a little lower suggests just re-running the power wire directly from the battery (while still using the stock relay to control it) he suggests 10 or a minimum of 12 which sucks cause i have an abundance of 14 gauge hangin around doing nothing lol.... but if i do end up still getting power that far (which i wasnt before but that could be because the positive lead of my multi meter is a bare wire... i need to go get a new one that has alligator clips!)should i even bother?

so since i need to get new leads to be sure on the one test, i did the pump test, just a brief tap to power and it came on so thats all good

that would be awesome i will message you and send you some money via paypal , I was considering using a ping pong ball, or making one out of thin sheets of brass, but an original is much better

[Destrto]

Even though you've already cut those hangars off, there were supposed to be little bushings there that they fit into that bolted up to the back end of that transmission dampener. I noticed them while going through my own engine removal.

[abazz009]

Even though you've already cut those hangars off, there were supposed to be little bushings there that they fit into that bolted up to the back end of that transmission dampener. I noticed them while going through my own engine removal.

i know i had those but there was abosolutly no way it all lines up, so cutting them is what i ended up doing


Not much of an update, to solve my float issue i bought some stuff called Seal- All its advetised as being fuel resistent so i just made a patch let it cure and put it pack on using metel zip ties, as for the fuel pump connection im using larger well nuts (3/4inch) which i then ran wire directly through added some rubber plugs and filled it in with that seal all crap, doesnt look great but i shouldnt have to worry about the well nuts melting.

20171229_111727 by sounderror, on Flickr

built a boost leak checker, found a 2 pretty large leaks, fixed those, need sand my boost leak checker plugs a bit more as im getting leaks from those, making finding any small leaks impossible. car runs and idles fine but its smoking. i let it run 15 mins 2 seperaste times still smoking and reving just makes the smoke thicker the smoke defiently has a blue haze to it so im guessing its you know pretty much game over for this build. wil continue to to boost leaks tests, comperssion tests, and all that stuff then leave either good news or bad news lol

[abazz009]

had to re-set my fuel pressure it was way high at about 50psi, so i set it back down to 43ish and at idle it falls down to 40.re-set my TPS thats at .46v. car isnt smoking anymore but has a tough time starting have to give it 2-5 cranks, idles at about 900rpm. it bogs hesistates backfires if i give it immidiate throttle but if i ease into it it acts fine, its still on jack stands should probably get it some fresh gas. still having trouble with checking the timing the mark doesnt stay in one spot and jumps all around making adjusting that impossible, still havent did a compression test mainly because i dont want to see low numbers, the oil pressure gauge is all over the place on cold starts it goes all the way up too 120 befor pretty much falling all the way down to 0-60. i like to think its just the sender going bad since its been all over the place since i first bought the car . anywyas heres a video 9 (gotta click it) of the car running you can tell me what you think i should be doing to figure out what my issues are. im tired of taking the car apart and everytime i do i feel like im just chasing my tail as im no mechanic and the more i work on this car the more i realize i know abosulty nothing about it despite everything i have done to get it to this point

20171231_135341 by sounderror, on Flickr

[abazz009]

ok today i did my compression test, spark plugs out and nice and black these have no more the 30mins of run time on them and zero miles.. left to right 1-6
20180101_142024 by sounderror, on Flickr

as for my compression results
#1 Dry 110 wet 145
#2 Dry 118 Wet 150
#3 Dry 118 Wet 149
#4 Dry 119 Wet 149
#5 Dry 108 Wet 131
#6 Dry 105 Wet 150
obviously my dry numbers are below spec, but within 14psi of each other
wet is all within spec and also within 14psi of each other,

these numbers arent as bad as how my NA was, but i suppose it points twords a worn engine, question is does this condemn the engine?

[Ace2cool]

It does in fact point towards worn piston rings. But I didn't see anything inherently "wrong" in the video based on what I could see.

[abazz009]

It does in fact point towards worn piston rings. But I didn't see anything inherently "wrong" in the video based on what I could see.

yeah it rev'ed just fine, when i showed it in the bay, but it was when i reved it while sitting inside it that, it hesitates and backfires? but without the loud bang more of just a deep "putt putt" type of sound if you know what i mean, but it sounding fine is a plus im definitely just at a loss at what to do i cant get my custom made plugs for my boost leak checker to stop leaking. but i couldnt find any other leaks, if they exist they are probably extremely small but idk this is my first turbo car and i have no idea how small or big of a leak would start to cause issues.

[abazz009]

ok so, i just started going over everything again, i did manage to find one mistake and that was my spark plug gap,which was at .044 when it should of been at .035 so i changed that, cleaned up the plugs, went over all my couplers, fixed my boost leak checker couldnt find any leaks, it was holding pressure sort of, it would build up on its own if i let the air go into to fast, but it had to be leaking out somwhere because it wouldnt hold the 5psi if i stopped adding air but i couldnt find anything used the soapy water technique still nothing.. so maybe its something internal? i did hear a slight gurgle from inside the engine once but i couldnt get it to happen again and i had just had it started and idling for 10-15mins before. i went ahead and opened up my idle air screw all the way which should have it idling Way high instead it idles at 900rpm if i close it i cant get it to idle at all , car rev's ok no bogging or mis-firing, blow off valves make the "shhh" sound, have my boost set low on the EBC .50 and 40% duty cycle. car has been on and off smoking first few revs smokes pretty bad before it stops then its a non-issue. after a high rev the idle falls below 500rpm like oh im gonna die then it catches itself and its fine again. so against my better judgment i decided to take it around the block,seemed fine and it was just begging for me to give it a bit more gas. so i figure its been somewhat ok, so i take it to a wider longer road and go ahead and give it some gas, it defiently got going, then at the top of the shift a very load backfire, cars still fine at that point, so i make a u-turn and give it another go, same thing loud backfire (i watched my boost gauge and hit 5psi so its set really low,this time the car dies, which i couldnt tell till i came to a stop, at this point i cant get the car to restart, the first couple cranks a get a big puff of smoke before it stops again, never got it re-started had to push a few blocks home.luckly 2 very kind people felt bad for me and helped me push. so thats where i am, my plans from here are, checking the timing (which hasnt been working for me) the gun doesnt seem to be picking up the coil pack and i dont have any spark plug wires to destroy, to make a jumper. then i guess another boost leak check maybe i opened up where it was leaking to a point where i can find it, if i find nothing and have no sucess im gonna call it quits (for now, and focus on the car i should of been getting daily drivable) on this car and just eat the 7+k i have into it and let it rot away in the driveway and maybe just buy another one at some point , i hate that i love the z32's so much but there is no way i want to do another engine pull in a dirt driveway.

well thats that, unless i do have success on getting it working, or someone has an idea on what I should check ,thanks to everyone who lent their knowledge i really appreciated it. im sure i will be back at some point in the future when i have a garage...later

[Ace2cool]

Before you let it sit and let the battery die, at least check codes and see what you come up with? Did you verify timing? Sounds like it could be a timing issue just based one rewatching the video and what you described. Otherwise there's an air/fuel mixture problem. Didn't you do something with the intake? Dual Selin or something?

[DCaff300ZX]

Before you let it sit and let the battery die, at least check codes and see what you come up with? Did you verify timing? Sounds like it could be a timing issue just based one rewatching the video and what you described. Otherwise there's an air/fuel mixture problem. Didn't you do something with the intake? Dual Selin or something?

He had a Doolz with the dummy MAF, which IIRC needs the idle balancing circuit he may/may not have, or may not be functional.
I have to agree that winging it hasn't served the OP well, and now's a good time to at least look into the "better" way which has to do with codes and tests and the like that will tell you most likely right where your problems are, rather than guessing and losing track of things, as seems to be the case for the OP.
The Z32 is definitely a frustrating job to fix just about anything already, no need to pile on confusion and bad guesses.

[abazz009]

yeah i made a jumper wire for the spark plugs my timing is sitting at 15 degree's though its not idling on its own anymore so i was holding the throttle up to about (800-900rpm getting that reading any higher RPM and the timing retards which if i understand correctly is right?so that reading could be in-accurate), the oil pressure was jumping around like crazy going past the 120 on first start (which it struggles to start) then pretty much falling all the way to zero where it would eventually die. so i let it sit awhile checked my oil level couldn't get a reading on the dip stick so i took out some oil, then was getting a bit over half full, went ahead and added oil till i only had about 1/6 left to full on dip stick. this, of course, solved my oil pressure getting really high but it still drops to zero and dies. so after that i let it sit for awhile again and my dipstick is reading half full. after that i quit messing with it because where the hell is that oil disappearing too? iv checked for codes a few separate times but im getting "55" so the ECU doesnt see a problem, fuel pressure is set to 42ish according to my gauge, cant find any obvious boost leaks with the checker( though its not holding any pressure), tested all the coil packs, TPS is set to .45v, i did the wet-dry compression test, what other tests do i need to be doing? like dcaffsaid doolz with the dummy, just a tune on the chip to make that possible,it seems everyone has a different opinion on dual intakes,iv read about the balancing tube but iv only seen that for people who use 2 separate elbows for the intake, what do you mean by "idle balancing circuit "? if you mean a selin kit no i dont have that, im under the impression all i need is a tune with the doolz, and thats what iv read and been told. but i have seen the posts about people having issues but i was encouraged to keep the doolz vs going back to a single intake because i was going to last time i sent my chip back to be re-tuned. the doolz should "balance' the air themselves as the 2 pipes mix in the middle if you know what i mean. on another note i have the battery on a tender and it has plans to be moved to another car that will be drivable soon.