+1 for that...Kalypso123 wrote:post more pics with more step by step details.
Kalypso123 you are going to email me about how you did your signiture....
Right?[email protected]
+1 for that...Kalypso123 wrote:post more pics with more step by step details.
The differences you posted has less to do with one is an Aristo engine and one is a Supra engine and more to do with Aristos are only available in the JDM and the Supra 2JZ is available in both USDM and JDM.cwtt wrote:Good luck with your swap! You do realize that is an Aristo motor, not a Supra motor right?
There are differences (turbos, injectors, cams, oil pan, water pump etc)
Doubled? maybe. Im not buying the $500 "600hp" intercooler, or the hks ssq blow off, or the $400 radiator, or have an expensivie *** performance shop do all the work. all work will be done here at my shop with quality parts for under 6k and that includes the car... heres a quick run down of what i've maped out as far as cost for this project1. car-$5002. motor set-$18003. r154 transmission $2504. 1j bellhousing and flywheel $8005. wiring free6. timing belt water pump misc seals $200(like 212.00 from dealership i already have everything)7. rukus racing mounts $2258. custom driveshaft $3509. j30 rear diff- free (have a j30 in the back of the shop for parts)10. intercooler, piping, blow off valve $300 (give or take $100 probably give)11. clutch line, rad hoses, fuel lines, flywheel bolts $10012. stage 2 clutch $35013. and we'll say $500 for any other misc. things that i left out. keep in mind this is just to get it in the car running with the stock twins which is a total of $5375.00.. thats really not all that bad its only outragously expensive if someone else is doing the work. And when i decide to upgrade and go for higher numbers im looking at about $4000 which almost half of that is going to the turbo itself adding only another 1k if i decide to buid the block.. if you account for everything you'll have no suprises! im pretty prepared trust me thanks for the heads up tho i just wanna have a lil fun, show it off, sell it down the road and move on to something elsesilvia_ks_69 wrote:hey man. good to see another 2J swapper on here. this is a big project ur undertaking as ive found out over the last little while and especially today when i got quotes for hooking everything up in the bay and wiring in the standalone. i dunno wut ur plans are for power wise/application but if u plan on upgrading to make some substantial numbers like mine (500whp) then ur budget might as well be doubled. im not tryin to scare u or anything but ya it sucks when u run outta money and ur car is still on stands. trust me. anywayz welcome and ill be followin ur build so do it up right
email you about how I did my signature? which onethis one? this is a 3d model I made in Maya 8.0 and rendered in mental rayrcabrita wrote:+1 for that...
Kalypso123 you are going to email me about how you did your signiture....
Right?[email protected]
Probably because they will sound stupid after you realize they don't really know **** about it....cause they didn't do it themselves.Steve2jz240 wrote:That you really dont find much here in atlanta, most are so arrogent, rich with mom and pops money and dont wanna share ****.
My request is that you cover the fuel system and battery relocation.I am not sure how I will end up doing my fuel lines and also I want to know about the batt. setup.Steve2jz240 wrote:anyways let me know if there are any specific pic you guys want or whatever..
naw not forgotten at all. Exhuast is not expensive at all i actually own a snap on welding machine just not very good a welding. The shop next to ours does all of our exhuast work, cat convertors, mufflers, and such for a custom straignt 3in from the downpipe back will run me $125 (not stainless steel) minus the muffler so your right i did miss that. and i've got 2 50gallon drums of antifreeze and several 50gallon drums of oil i really think i covered most of everything little nic naks i can pick up at autozone and then we have a commerical account with them so 30percent is our discountxpicer wrote:bro im not sure but i think you migth be forgetting a mufler, and lil misc things here and there , coolant , oil ........
No problem that what i was going to tackle today the fuel system shouldn't be to bad i believe i just have to relocate the filter to the oppisite side of the car and for the battery just run.... i can show u better than i can tell u.. thanks for checking in tho!rcabrita wrote:My request is that you cover the fuel system and battery relocation.I am not sure how I will end up doing my fuel lines and also I want to know about the batt. setup.
Thanks allot and to you sir
well ya thats the thing u can budget pretty well if u keep it basic. but like i went top of the line with alot of parts to try and reach the numbers that im going for and ya somehow the budget is no longer in existence, when u start doing that it becomes very hard to account for everything because misc. things add up very quickly. dude if u kno wut ur doin then more power to u man. i wish i had as much knowledge as most of the guys doing this swap cuz it would save alot of money and it would be a little more satisfaction of knowing i did all or almost all of the work myself....but wut can u do, im learning. newayz keep it real look forward to updatesSteve2jz240 wrote:
Doubled? maybe. Im not buying the $500 "600hp" intercooler, or the hks ssq blow off, or the $400 radiator, or have an expensivie *** performance shop do all the work. all work will be done here at my shop with quality parts for under 6k and that includes the car... heres a quick run down of what i've maped out as far as cost for this project1. car-$5002. motor set-$18003. r154 transmission $2504. 1j bellhousing and flywheel $8005. wiring free6. timing belt water pump misc seals $200(like 212.00 from dealership i already have everything)7. rukus racing mounts $2258. custom driveshaft $3509. j30 rear diff- free (have a j30 in the back of the shop for parts)10. intercooler, piping, blow off valve $300 (give or take $100 probably give)11. clutch line, rad hoses, fuel lines, flywheel bolts $10012. stage 2 clutch $35013. and we'll say $500 for any other misc. things that i left out. keep in mind this is just to get it in the car running with the stock twins which is a total of $5375.00.. thats really not all that bad its only outragously expensive if someone else is doing the work. And when i decide to upgrade and go for higher numbers im looking at about $4000 which almost half of that is going to the turbo itself adding only another 1k if i decide to buid the block.. if you account for everything you'll have no suprises! im pretty prepared trust me thanks for the heads up tho i just wanna have a lil fun, show it off, sell it down the road and move on to something else
wel im not going to sit here and lie because i do have doubts about keeping my budget i got so many misc. things, hoses, brackets, filters, electrical wires, bolts here around the shop i should be ok for the most part.i see you guys concern tho.. UPDATE: well today and yesterday were pretty damn rough and busy. The engine came out ok as usual but installing that monster engine was a ***** no doubt (i was told it was going to be).. i mean it really took some work but the finished product was quite nice.. it sits as far back as possibe not allowing use of the heater core's bottom hose.. i was also told that it would be hell trying to work on the engine while its in the engine bay but you would be suprised at the amount of room i still have to work.. here are a few pictures of how i relocated the fuel filter and the picture of the cables are battery cables for my bmw525i (that battery is in the trunk and basically i just ripped the cables out and used them)silvia_ks_69 wrote:
well ya thats the thing u can budget pretty well if u keep it basic. but like i went top of the line with alot of parts to try and reach the numbers that im going for and ya somehow the budget is no longer in existence, when u start doing that it becomes very hard to account for everything because misc. things add up very quickly. dude if u kno wut ur doin then more power to u man. i wish i had as much knowledge as most of the guys doing this swap cuz it would save alot of money and it would be a little more satisfaction of knowing i did all or almost all of the work myself....but wut can u do, im learning. newayz keep it real look forward to updates
well its like this... the flywheel stays on the engine just as normal but you dont bolt anything to it without the transmission being bolted to the engine.. what you do is while the transmission is off you slide the pressure plate onto the output shaft of the transmission like thisthe pressure plate is held onto a tubelar shaft via a snap ring that acts in cojunction with the clutch slave cylinder. its alot easier to understand when its in your face. next you simply slide the clutch disc onto the shaft as far back as it will go. then take and bolt up the transmission to the engine. once thats done there is a big hole in the side of the transmission bellhousing, thru that hold you have to line up the holes on the pressure plate to the flywheel im going to find you a pretty good diagram toosupreamS14 wrote:I use my myspace to post pics and they come out as big as they are. I also crop them with paint when they are too big.
Again could you shine some light on how the clutch bolts up as you said that it dont go on the most common way?
how did u make your extension?silvia_ks_69 wrote:the only way the shifter setup is gunna change is if u push the engine back as FAR as it will go, cut out the firewall or make an extension on ur shifter which is wut i did.