My 500rwhp SR Build thread...

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Solow240sx
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Car: sr20 powered 91 240sx

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They have a very good reputation, when i did my research i didn't find any one with anything bad to say about them, also the machine shop i had do my machine work said they really like to using them. So i figured i would give them a try..


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Solow240sx
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Car: sr20 powered 91 240sx

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Ok guys just a little update, I just ordered my flywheel. So i should have the motor back in the car next week sometime.

Also i should be done with polishing the intake manifold by the end of the weekend, other than that i have just been sanding my fingers to the bone!!!

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kentuckyslider
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Yes I do have resistors. I would go with the 96lbs msd's and a top feed rail. You don't want to max out your injectors and be at the beginning of your effeceincy on your 35R. I would get with Phase2 on this setup. JGY has not had good results with anything topmount or more than what I've got. You can get the fuel rail, 96lbs injectors, and resistors from JGY but I would go with Phase2 and full race for everything else. JWT has not had good results with their lightning MAF and 96 lbs injectors, I would get a Power FC D-jetro for tune. One more thing..... sooner or later you better get a Z32 transmission and adapter plate and a twin disc clutch if you're going for 500+ whp. This is what 350whp and drag tires does to 2nd gear in the SR and KA transmission...... I did a KA swap and I have a extra KA transmission for backup.

MastaYu
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Solow240sx
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WOW, You lost me bro! So your saying that you are running the jgy injectors, and rail but you would not recommend them?? All that i am running from JGY at the moment is pulleys and the 10.4lb flywheel, And they that will be all i will be running from them unless thats where i get my injectors and rail, Also the car will deff be tuned with a power fc or if i can spluge a AEM ems which has electic boost controler and 2 step launch control built into it. As for the transmission i have a spare KA trans as a backup for now just incase, not sure what i will be doing transmission wise in the future, i guess well see when i get there!

Kalypso
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^

well thats good to know

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kentuckyslider
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I also have their pulleys, flywheel, fuel rail, and msd 72lbs. injectors. I would not recommend them for any top mount setup past the parts mentioned above. The D-Jetro and a GT35R twin scroll from P2M and Fullrace is where I will go if I go top mount.

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Solow240sx
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Ok also i wanted to ask you how do u like the JGY Rail and MSD injectors?? I am think thats the way i will go fuel wise. Don't worry i will deff. be going with a fullrace turbo set-up haven't made up my mind completely yet either gt3076r or 35r i still am waiting on fullrace to email me back about when each set-up should hit full boost, I do not want the car to be super laggy i no i no matter what it will be laggy tryin to get 500rwhp but i would like to hit full boost before 6,000rpm, lol..

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2_Liter_Turbo
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kentuckyslider wrote: One more thing..... sooner or later you better get a Z32 transmission and adapter plate and a twin disc clutch if you're going for 500+ whp. This is what 350whp and drag tires does to 2nd gear in the SR and KA transmission......
Dude! Do you not preload your drive train when you launch?!?! Either that, or you just have amazingly terrible luck! My buddy Greg's 10 second S14 runs a stock SR transmission for the past 3 years. His still works fine.... I will agree with the clutch though, lol. They go through clutches like crazy!

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Stripes
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Hey if you don't mind me asking, how much did you spend on internals for this motor?I am planning on building my sr with a very similar selection of parts and I have a list adding up near $1,700 for internals.

Kalypso
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^ whats in your list?

UPDATE + MOAR PICS

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Solow240sx
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Touge, i'll have to all my receipts up for ya, your talking about just the bottom end??

Heres the full mod list so far, im going today to work on it alittle, so i will get some more pics!

Drivetrain

red top SR20DET CP Forged 86.5mm-8.5x1 .20 over pistons eagle forged H beam rods with arp bolts Acl race rod and main bearingsARP main studsWet Magged & polished crankBalanced rotating assemblyApexi 1.5mm headgasketARP HeadstudsJim Wolf bronze Valve guidesGreddy rocker arm stoppersTomie 270 procam, 12.5mm lift camsBrian Crower Valve springs and titanuim retainersNew OEM oil pumpNew front and rear main seals All new OEM gaskets Greddy intake manifoldJGY Lightweight polished pulley kitCircuit Sports aluminum coolant reservoir tankGreddy oil catch canMegan 3" downpipe Apexi N1 3" Catback Z32/300zx MAFS S15 gt28r turbo (sold)Braided turbo linesBraided clutch lineACT ClutchB&M short shifterNismo motor/transmission mountsGreddy front mount intercoolerGreddy FMIC pipingGreddy type rs blow off valveApexi power intake kitKoyo polished radFlexalite dual 12" Electric fansWalbro 255lph fuel pumpNismo adjustable FPR Suspension/BrakesNismo power braceTein pillow ball tension rodsZ32/300zx front crossdrilled/slotted rotors & calipersBraided front brake linesPolished Master cylinder heat sheildSynthetic brake fluid Interior/electronicsGreddy profec spec II electonic boost controllerGreddy Full Auto Turbo Timerdual gauge pillar podNismo shift knobSecchi Drift turn knobAutometer boost/oil pressure gaugesRelocated trunk mount batteryAlpine type s 6.5's and audibahn 4x6 plates in the rear

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kentuckyslider
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ElNegro wrote:
Dude! Do you not preload your drive train when you launch?!?! Either that, or you just have amazingly terrible luck! My buddy Greg's 10 second S14 runs a stock SR transmission for the past 3 years. His still works fine.... I will agree with the clutch though, lol. They go through clutches like crazy!
Yeah, I preload and slip the clutch in 1st, but it's 2nd gear that's weak. I am sure you know what a 400whp 240 does when you bang 2nd gear on street tires and that picture is what it can do to 2nd on wrinkle walls. I will have to say my sr transmission was old and badly worn and the bearings whined like crazy. I did a KA to SR swap and it is performing nicely. For the money I will keep a backup KA transmission as long as they're available.

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Stripes
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BottomEagle RodsACL Race main and rod bearingsCP 86.0mm pistonsOEM Gasket setARP main studs

TopTomei Solid Pivot setBC steel intake and exhaust valvesBC Titanium RetainersTomei 12.5mm Solid Pro camsTomei Type A valve springsTomei Pivot shims and guidesARP head studs

I don't know what else I need to do a solid lifter head, but I think I covered everything.

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Solow240sx
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Car: sr20 powered 91 240sx

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Im running HLA'S and not SLA'S for now if the car becomes full race, then i will go SLA's but i don't want the annoying tap all the time, since it will be a weekend driven car, also im not trying to rev to the moon or anything so i should be ok...

Im running cp pistons 86.5mm eagle rods arp main studsNew OEM thrust washersACL race rods and Duraglide mains, the race mains were on back order for like 6 months when i ordered my parts so i just went with the duraglides..

tomie 270 procamsbc springs & retainersjim wolf bronze valve guides

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Solow240sx
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im also running stock valves, and arp headstuds

Kalypso
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HLA / SLA

what are these acronyms for?

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Solow240sx
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ok guys heres a small update, im still waiting on the flywheel it should be here tuesday, and then i will be putting the motor back in the car, still need to figure out what to do for fuel and still saving towards my full-race set-up but with the holidays coming near i may have to wait till the new year...Anyways heres some pics so u can see what i've been up too...

Decided that i better figure out how to clearance the cams the right way, i no there are many, many sr owners that do not do this step but, i dont want to risk it, i went to grizzly and picked out a dial indicator that had a shaft almost the size of the HLA Hole, and brought it home, modified it alittle and it actually works great! I have been wrapping the end of it with electrical tape, so i do not scare the hole of the HLA and it fits nice and tight!



cams back out..

saved myself about $150, and it was very easy!!!!

Just alittle shot of the manifold its getting there, I have been sanding my fingers to the BONE!!!!!!

and a couple shots of its home...

va240dude
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Car: 1992 S13

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very clean body and workspace...looks like you have a nice set up. goodluck with the build and keep the updates coming.

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Stripes
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With the .2 over bore, did you have to do anything to the crank shaft? Also, how much did it cost you to get your block bored out to that? The main reason I decided to go 86mm and not bore over is because I have heard that you have to do something to the crank shaft.Also, how exactly does that tool you made work? I don't quite see what it does

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Solow240sx
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My book with my manual and receipts in it is with the car in my sisters garage im actually going over there in about an hour to finish the cam clearances, so i will let u no once i get back. Nothing needs to be done to the crank if u go with a .20 overbore, are you sure they weren't talking about machining the crank and going with bigger main bearings?? Do you have your motor all torn down?? And if so are u sure it doesn't need to be bored from normal wear?? I had to bore mine .20 over to clean up the cylinder walls.

The dial indicator if to measure from the valve stem them to the top of the shim or guide with it installed and, you have to make sure that they are within spec so the rocker arm rolls flat on the cam lobes...

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Stripes
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I don't remember what was mentioned about having to modify the crank but it involved boring the motor. It could very well have had to do with using bigger bearings.My motor isn't apart at all, hahaha. It's actually still in my car I just couldn't decide what to do with it, but I'm going to put my KA back in and build the SR. I never thought about having it bored because of wear on the walls. I'm glad you pointed that out.Thanks for explaining your dial indicator, I understand it much better now.

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kentuckyslider
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With the kind of time and money you're putting in this setup this is the turbo that I would get....... http://store.forcedperformance...Turbo

It looks like it is well worth the money for the extra low end tq and spool up time. Look at the dyno comparisons in the link. That is crazy. Get your full race mani and this turbo! If I go top mount this is what I will get.

As for SLA and HLA. SLA or solid lifters are for high revving race motors looking to go over 8500 rpm at the track. They require adjustment and I wouldn't recommend them for anyone who isn't building a track only trailered drag car with a 600+whp goal. HLA's or (hydraulic lash adjusters) are OEM on SR20's and self adjust to cam wear and have been proven to hold up to 8000rpm on our motors.

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Solow240sx
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Kalypso123, SLA stands for Solid Lash Adjuster, and HLA'S are Factory Hydraulic Lash Adjusters...

Kentuckyslider, that turbo looks very nice. I may have to do some more research on it..

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xdabsx
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your baller you might as well get a z32 trans and the mazworx kit so you dont have to worry about the trans.sr trans are weak i broke the input shaft dumping the clutch at like 3500 rpm and that was only with about 350hp

nice build btw looking clean love to see stuff done right

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Solow240sx
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Ok guys small update should have more by the weekend, Just wanted to post some pics of the flywheel that just came in, looks very very nice JGY came threw as they normally do with very fast shipping..


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positron1
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Friggin' sweet!!!

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Solow240sx
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Car: sr20 powered 91 240sx

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Ok guys small update its getting there, need a turbo set-up, injectors, and a standalone. Anyways got the motor in today And started hookin up some small stuff...

Heres some pics, really need to get some stuff powder coated!!

dont wanna scratch my fresh paint!!!


MastaYu
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nice its in

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positron1
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Clean and quite MEAN!!!!


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