Magnefine transmission and power steering filters

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Infinitiguy19
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Hey I am going to be putting in a power steering and transmission filter in my car pretty soon. I did some research (like I do for EVERYTHING):

http://www.v6performance.net/f...60257



And from all my searching I haven't heard anything bad about these filters. So if it does turn out to be a waste well that's $25 for two filters down the drain, I have spent more money worse.

I see why Qship96 loves this stuff, Hopefully I am as happy and pleased as him.


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Infinitiguy19
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Paul Wall wrote:So if it does turn out to be a waste well that's $25 for two filters down the drain, I have spent more money worse.
That 2 for $25 auction thing was an auction I lost.

But I got a 3/8 Magnefine filter for $16 shipped to my door thanks to: dreamer_cs from Ebay. I plan to use it as a transmission filter on my car which should hopefully help a little. I also want to add a power steering filter too.

My questions:

What size is the power steering return line hose?

Which is the oil return line for the transmission? I found this but no one verified Subzero's statement: zerothread?id=307063. On the 1994-1996 Q45 that topic applies but does anything change on the 1990-1993 as far as transmission oil lines go.

I plan on taking pictures of the install and maybe even a how to video on the power steering and transmission Magnefine filter install.

maxnix
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A better investment, especially for urban driving, might be the Z32 PS fluid heat exchanger.

Passenger side is the ATF return.

qship96
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Why not both? Clean and cool fluid is about as good as it gets!!!!

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cientortas
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I installed a spin off type oil filter assembly for the ATF.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-10678/

The new filter fits nicely in the bracket that holds the factory ATF filter in 94-96 G50s. This is simple, effective, and allows you to easily replace the filter once a year or so. You can also tap in an ATF temp sender with this setup.

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Infinitiguy19
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maxnix wrote:A better investment, especially for urban driving, might be the Z32 PS fluid heat exchanger.

Passenger side is the ATF return.
qship96 wrote:Why not both? Clean and cool fluid is about as good as it gets!!!!
Good idea but I am in New England so is that such a good idea?

Do you guys know the size of the return hose for the power steering?

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goody90q45
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Paul Wall wrote:Do you guys know the size of the return hose for the power steering?
If you're talking about the return hose at the PS reservoir.........

What follows is pretty technical, almost rocket science, so read closely. The nipple diameter measured on the reservoir is 10mm (about 3/8"). The hose ID (hole) will be the same. The hose OD is 18mm (about 3/4") which means that the hose wall thickness is 4mm (about 1/8").

Bring your calipers ($17 shipped on Ebay, probably cheaper at Harbor Freight) to the auto parts store and ask for power steering hose. Measure what they bring out to make sure it's the right size before you bring it home.

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Infinitiguy19
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That post make Dennis look dumb. . Seriously though I was looking at the suction hose rather than the return hose.

Good news is in that case that for the people who have a aftermarket transmission cooler (Should be most of NICO) then all you need is the 3/8ths filter. I bought one for $16 shipped then I went to a Aamco Transmission shop and bought another one for $12. Aamco is THE worst transmission shop I have ever seen!!! Well I have only been to that one but God help the cars that go there.

Anyways I order some BG power steering flush fluid so I will flush it and install the filter.

But on the transmission lines, Which is the output and which is the input?

For the people that don't have the aftermarket cooler for what ever reason is the OEM rubber hose the same size (3/8)?

Pictures of install will follow as a thank you to NICO and its kind members.

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Infinitiguy19
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Well I couldn't fix the electrical problem so I took a break and installed the Magnefine filter today on the return line for the power steering. It was a scary experience because all my life my parents doubted me and told me to let others do the things for me ("because they know more"). But I got it on.

I was cared at the fact after re assembly I heard the power steering pump whine and I shut it off after a 1/2 a second of hearing it. But I assume thats far to late so I will be bleeding the system tommorow to make sure there is no air in there. I will also re check the fittings on the power steering lines as well as look for puddles.

But my only fear is the filter breaking the plastic case that is. Do you guys think thats at all possible if you change it every year?

Either way I am holding off on putting a Magnefine filter on the A/T till I am satisfied with the current. And because a power steering pump and rack is far less than a new or used transmission installed.

I forgot another downside to this filter: No more oil changes from the top, at least pulling the filter out from the top will be even more a pain if not impossible.
Modified by Paul Wall at 5:51 PM 2/20/2010

maxnix
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Paul Wall wrote:I forgot another downside to this filter: No more oil changes from the top, at least pulling the filter out from the top will be even more a pain if not impossible.
Changing the filter from the top eventually causes pain to the MAF connections and one cannot inspect the bottom of the car for wear and leaks from the top.

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Infinitiguy19
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Couldn't agree with you more but its either do it from the top by myself or let the stupid monkeys at ANY shop do it. I have tried almost all the shops that specialize in foreign cars and Infiniti dealerships....I have ALWAY been dissatisfied.

Plus I believe in this: If you do it yourself and you mess something up you can only blame yourself and retrace your procedure to correct the problem(s).

But if the MAF sensor plug does eventually fail I will replace it because its still available as far as I know.

qship96
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I see your point about letting most shops touch your car{why I prefer to do my own ATF changes} but if you are going to continue removing the filter from the top, might as well prepare in advance for the inevitable and obtain a backup MAF and connector now, so you have them handy for when the time comes, and it Will come!

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extreme max
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i have a question somewhat related to this topic and i am sorry to just jump into your conversation

i have a 90 Q45 and my p/s hoses are bad. i am looking for them all over town but it seems they are a dealer item only. i am trying to find out if that is true or is another alternative to replace if not repair the hoses since the cracks are very fine/ small. any help appreciated and form of saving even more

qship96
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Dealer only, or to save $$$$$ you can take the bad hoses off and bring to a hydrolic hose specialist shop in your area who can make you new ones while you wait {look in phone book for a shop in your area}

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Infinitiguy19
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qship96 wrote:Dealer only, or to save $$$$$ you can take the bad hoses off and bring to a hydrolic hose specialist shop in your area who can make you new ones while you wait {look in phone book for a shop in your area}
That or you can also try this guy: zerothread/307781
qship96 wrote:I see your point about letting most shops touch your car{why I prefer to do my own ATF changes} but if you are going to continue removing the filter from the top, might as well prepare in advance for the inevitable and obtain a backup MAF and connector now, so you have them handy for when the time comes, and it Will come!
Were talking once every 3000 miles and I don't drive much in the winter. But 14+ year old plastic is brittle and extreme care must be taken.

But on a plus side I can now steer the car with my pinky finger which is scary. But I still have some more power steering bleeding to do.

silkysmoothyjud
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As far as changing the oil filter goes, I found out that it is totally WORTH IT to just unscrew the fan clutch (fan attached) from the water pump and remove the filter. My fan clutch screws are new and easy to remove. I discovered this on my third water pump. I used to hate to change my oil, now its simple as pie....

I just keep my PS flushed with ATF and use Lucas stop leak, 16 years old, works like brand new. I wonder what the filter would do if you added stop leak..

qship96
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What about all the filthy oil that leaks on hoses/block/etc when you unscrew the old filter??? If removed from below while on a lift it is easy to use a can of brake parts cleaner and a rag and clean everything well......and also inspect the entire underside of car for wearing items and rotate the tires/check brakes.

silkysmoothyjud
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I just jack it up and inspect. I'm more worried about getting burnt/dirty, arm scaped up, ect. I hit the brakes, if it stops, all good. Tires, I check for vibrations while driving, and whats my name? Oil on the block...It will leak down, easy to get most of it off with all that room. Members standards vary. Im not saying its right or wrong, but I sure am clean after Im done ten minutes later...

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Infinitiguy19
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C'mon I don't want a argument in a topic that has little to do with oil changes.

But I think if I were to undo the power steering reservoir (3X 10MM screws) and move it off to the side then I am sure I can change the oil by removing the MAF and air box again.

But again I agree with doing the oil from the bottom on a lift but at what price? I would like to be abale to look at the undercoat and spray some more where needed, look at all the rubber under the car....But if I am going to entrust minimum wage people to work on my car I am better off doing it myself.

I wish I was closer to T3 because I would be there everyday.

silkysmoothyjud
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When I take her on the next road trip to FL, I am gonna make an appointment to have em take a look at her. I wouldnt mind checking out Dennis' ride...

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Infinitiguy19
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Lucky you.

But I do have one question about the Magnefine filters: Each transmission and power steering system runs at different pressures. So if thats so how can they make sure the filter will go into bypass at the right time. Basically how do we know that the filter will go into bypass before there is fluid starvation?

Like Q45tech said; The PCV is matched to the engine so then the bypass spring should be matched as well right?

I assume this is why some are hesitant to add these filters to there cars?

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Infinitiguy19
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Sorry to bring this up YET AGAIN (I know, I know) but since I changed the oil yesterday (Fun day) I didn't screw down the OEM intake (It started raining out of no where) so I had to do it today. I also snapped some pictures for my NICO friends:
Image
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zO ... directlink
Image
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/85 ... directlink
Image
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tG ... directlink

The above is the power steering filter, I still need to install the filter for the transmission. And possibly a bigger power steering cooler.

Please pardon the disgusting filthy engine bay, I need to get around to cleaning it

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The maximum pressure on the AT cooler lines is ~ <35 psi [lots depends on ATF brand and temperature].

I feel the main reason the 94-96 Q AT out lasted the 90-93 was inline filter. It sure maintained the ATF color longer.

qship96
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Where did you find a black mobil 1 filter......I thought they switched to grey a few years ago?

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Infinitiguy19
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Q45tech wrote:The maximum pressure on the AT cooler lines is ~ <35 psi [lots depends on ATF brand and temperature].

I feel the main reason the 94-96 Q AT out lasted the 90-93 was inline filter. It sure maintained the ATF color longer.
I am sure the taller gearing helped a bit too along with the duel coolers (heater) VS the single 1990-1992 Q45. But if the filter is allowed to clog up that could be than no filter. Of course you said all this so....

qship96 wrote:Where did you find a black mobil 1 filter......I thought they switched to grey a few years ago?
I just went down to Auto Zone and grabbed 5 QTs of Mobil 1 0W-40 and a filter. I was not aware at the time they switched over.
Do you think this filter has been sitting?
Is the color the only difference?

qship96
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Sorry Paul, my mistake...the current Mobil 1 filters are black, I think they use to be grey.....I get confused as I use Mobil 1 filters sometimes along with the Amsoil eao38, Nissan 60u00, and the Pure One......only one I am sure of the color is the ugly mustard yellow used on the Pure One!!!!!!! Hard to forget that ugly excellent performer!!!!

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Infinitiguy19
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qship96 wrote:......only one I am sure of the color is the ugly mustard yellow used on the Pure One!!!!!!! Hard to forget that ugly excellent performer!!!!
I hear you there but there surface is rough making it easier to remove by hand I think (I never used one). Amsoil is said to make a good filter so I will probably try that after the M1 filter.

I went back to Bob Is The Oil Guy and honestly just one look at that website and you would think its partially owned by Penzoil. I would ask them but I don't want to run the risk of getting banned.
Unlike most private motor oil web sites, Bob Is The Oil Guy is not about selling you something. It's about educating you so you can make informed decisions about the life blood of your engine: motor oil.
Ironically there is a permanent Pennzoil banner under that statement. Its not a Google ad either its a permanent banner. And a link to Frequently Asked Questions about Pennzoil ultra. I am sure its a good oil, but is it one of the worlds best?

Its sad that BITOG may be partially controlled by Pennzoil. But Autopia is now owned by a detailing product manufacture as well. It seems all the nice forums are now....

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Infinitiguy19
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I installed the Magenefine filter onto the transmission lines today after checking it over 10 times. I drove with no radio, sunroof and drivers window open and the under engine cover off all the way home to be sure I got it right. The funny thing is that the wheel well trim came off and dragged on the ground. I thought something went wrong with the transmission filter and I pulled over right away. Looked under saw the piece hanging. Still pissed but not as much.

I called up Magnefine themselves and a Tech did say the filter could be installed backwards and still not restrict flow (Bypass Valve AKA idiot valve)

Good news is doing a oil change is not that hard on this car with the car on the ground. The under engine cover makes everything harder though.

The line direction is listed in the service manual. It would be interesting to install a gauge before and after the filter to see if their is any increased back-pressure by the filter. The person I spoke with on the phone says its like adding another foot of rubber hose to the system.

Pictures will follow soon!

maxnix
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How soon?

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Infinitiguy19
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I should have added pictures of the installation a long time ago. I left the engine splash shield off so I will grab some tomorrow. I ran a magnefine transmission filter for a few months over a year.

I took it apart yesterday (Unscrewed it). I don't know if I should be dissapointed or glad that it was relatively clean. I don't like how they used a plastic flow director that directs oil to the magnet. When I pressed down on the plastic flow director it shattered into pieces. But I suppose if you change the filter at least every year and a half you have nothing to worry about. I saw the bypass valve thats built into the filter and I like that a lot. And it still worked!


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