Lonismo's RB S14

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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motoman399
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i will trade someone all non abs components for abs components :) i really really want it. i need the harness, computer, sensors, knuckles, diff, controller/pump. ill pay shipping and get you all the pre bent lines you need!


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Lonismos14
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If you come to ga and take all of that off sure. But i am to damn lazy to take all of that off. :yesnod

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TheRealNap0le0n
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kouki munster wrote:The ecu plug has to make a tight turn right at the hole in the firewall, and it is a lot easier to get the plug to make that turn with out the abs pump blocking your view and taking up space your hands need to work.

You're just pulling the engine harness, on non-abs cars there is only one thing to make it difficult, there is a little clip( I hope there is a special place in hell for the little Japanese engineer that thought that clip was a good idea) that holds the harness to the firewall behind the air box, I just wedge a flathead against the clip and give it a couple of hits to break it. On abs cars you have that clip but you also have to haggle with the abs pump for space to pull the harness.
as a person that works on cars for a living i feel for you there... there are alot of different unneccesary things designed into cars for no reason

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motoman399
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Lonismos14 wrote:If you come to ga and take all of that off sure. But i am to damn lazy to take all of that off. :yesnod
oh come on!! ill pay shipping both ways. does your car have an open diff?

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Lonismos14
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i believe its vsld. cause when i did a burn out in the dirt one time i had 2 marks

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Lonismos14
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So this weekend i started by installing my oem thermostat.
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Then the valve covers( I think they turned out good).
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Then used these gapped to .8 mil.
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Then put it all back together i think it looks PPURDY.
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CA18Magic
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Car: 1992 240sx Coupe/ 2007 Subaru WRX STi

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posting it here just in case you havent looked at my build page
Lonismos14 wrote:
Lonismos14 wrote:Hey when you changed the water pump did you have to take the timing belt off? :dblthumb:
So did you?
Oh, sorry.. Yes i did. But I kept the upper belt connected to the cam pulleys. How you might ask? lol I zip tied the belt to each cam pulley. 2 per cam towards the top so they wouldnt jump teeth. :dblthumb: Trick my dad taught me... In the picture below I removed the cam sensor bracket of course...

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TheRealNap0le0n
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stiff clamps with rubber on the ends works too... you know the kind for securing pieces together when welding or gluing together and such

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Lonismos14
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I just wanted to say :mad: SCREW THE ENGINEERS AT NISSAN :mad: It is a pita to get this damn harness out got everything unplugged the boot is actin like it is stuck in the firewall. Im going to get a beer :spitout: and use some manpower :eek .

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motoman399
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dang sure would be a lot easier to get it out if the abs wasnt there....... catch my drift (:

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Lonismos14
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Lol i got all of that removed im wondering if i have to take the dash out to get the rest of the harness out it just isnt coming. :facepalm:

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numbnuts240
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stroke harder.

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motoman399
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it tucks pretty hard behind the heater box if i remember right. push from the inside while pulling on the outside. may require 4 hands lol

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kouki munster
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There is a clip behind the air box a couple inches down from where the harness comes through the firewall, use a flat head screw driver and just break that clip with a little force. Its kind of hard to see, the easiest way to get to it is to slide the seat all the way back and get in the seat upside down and slid your head under the dash.

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Lonismos14
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Excellent thanks alot you guys are nothing but help. :biggrin: I just hate the design it was a b**** to get the abs unit out.

Hoffman5982
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that engine looks awesome. Make sure you clean the rest of the block up and paint the engine bay to set it off real nice. I was going to go with an rb25, but After thinking about it, Im going off to college in the fall and I need an engine thats easy to source parts and gets great gas mileage, so I decided to make do with an sr. Im not too happy about it, but I think the sr will be plenty for now. Take your time with this swap. What I was going to do with the rb, and still doing with the sr, is getting a master gasket set, oil pump, etc and pretty much do a mild rebuild. better to spend the money before hand than have it mess up afterwards and be stuck without a car again.
Just a suggestion. Good luck bro

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Noxy
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Hoffman5982 wrote:, so I decided to make do with an sr. Im not too happy about it, but I think the sr will be plenty for now.
Lol. I don't think I've ever seen those words said on this forum... You are my hero!

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Lonismos14
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Hoffman5982 wrote:that engine looks awesome. Make sure you clean the rest of the block up and paint the engine bay to set it off real nice. I was going to go with an rb25, but After thinking about it, Im going off to college in the fall and I need an engine thats easy to source parts and gets great gas mileage, so I decided to make do with an sr. Im not too happy about it, but I think the sr will be plenty for now. Take your time with this swap. What I was going to do with the rb, and still doing with the sr, is getting a master gasket set, oil pump, etc and pretty much do a mild rebuild. better to spend the money before hand than have it mess up afterwards and be stuck without a car again.
Just a suggestion. Good luck bro
Thanx :bigthumb: the bay/engine is going to be real clean. Although how i see alot of people paint there bays im not going to do that beause i have no rust and the paint still looks good. When i pull the motor im going to spray it down with awesome and pressure wash it. Might even wax the bay. :dblthumb:

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Lonismos14
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kouki munster wrote:There is a clip behind the air box a couple inches down from where the harness comes through the firewall, use a flat head screw driver and just break that clip with a little force. Its kind of hard to see, the easiest way to get to it is to slide the seat all the way back and get in the seat upside down and slid your head under the dash.
Thank you very much sir... That b**** was tucked all the way up there.

Got my impact so i am changing the front seal, waterpump, and timing belt then sending the harness to carl h.

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kouki munster
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Not a problem, it took me about an hour to get my harness out, it wouldn't have taken so long if I had know about that clip.

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Lonismos14
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UPDATE

So i didnt want any problems with the motor, so i tried to put as much new stuff as i could on the motor. This is me taking a picture of the teeth of the belt.
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I was very surprised the crank bolt popped off pretty easy.
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Out with the old.
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I put the gasket material on there nice and thick. As you can see the old one doesnt look that bad.
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In with the new. As you can see i went with bolts instead of nuts.
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On with the new belt.
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Yup new idlers and tensioners.
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I topped it off with painting the lower cover i see alot of people dont paint it but i did since it was off. Then i rotated the motor a couple of times to make sure the belt was on the correct. im kinda worried though cause i rotated the crank without the CAS in.
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WELL SEE YA GUYS I GOT TO GO EAT PIZZA. :wavey:

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motoman399
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looks good man. one thing, you dont need nearly that much sealant. only a thin layer is needed. they are two machined surfaces so the gaps are VERY thin. also dont buy that nasty red/orange sealant. get black or ultra black (kinda dark grey). the orange crap looks crappy lol

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TheRealNap0le0n
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no.... go get ultra gray. its more flexible so when alum parts heat and cool the RTV will stay sealed

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Lonismos14
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So what bout turning the motor over without the cas in. you think the timing will be off?

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motoman399
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anything but a nasty color was my point. and i dont think your going to have to worry about the aluminum parts heating and cooling THAT much. maybe on something that is really thin but not on a water pump or intake mani ect.

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ZootedS13
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ignition timing yes, but that already needs to be reset. base timing shouldnt be affected tho.

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TheRealNap0le0n
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motoman399 wrote:anything but a nasty color was my point. and i dont think your going to have to worry about the aluminum parts heating and cooling THAT much. maybe on something that is really thin but not on a water pump or intake mani ect.
you'd be surprised... at the nissan dealer we never touched anytihng except gray

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motoman399
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thats weird ive only used ultra black and never had a problem, ever. not saying your wrong, just saying i dont think that is the ONLY one you can use. you know.

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TheRealNap0le0n
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motoman399 wrote:thats weird ive only used ultra black and never had a problem, ever. not saying your wrong, just saying i dont think that is the ONLY one you can use. you know.
lol well i have like 4 tubes of the black RTV in my tool box so i've been trying to use them up... the red stuff is good for sealing exhaust leaks

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motoman399
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i was reading the packages on the permatex rtv red and ultra black, and from what i remember they have the same heat range it was like 450 or 500 degrees. i have always used ultra black for exhaust also (always meaning when i dont have a gasket or im too cheap) lol. im using a new kind now that comes in a aerosol can, looks like easy cheese. i dont know the name of it though. i really like it and its good to 500 degrees now too.

lonismo, sorry to put all this good info in your thread lol


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