J30tt progress

[elwesso]

Check out the new thread!

[drape123]

Sinan, congrats on getting it all running... watching the video was reminding me about how i felt the first time i drove mine..

the power is incredable! just wait till you get all the bugs worked out and you let loose... prolly need bigger tires to hold all the power to the ground.

about the EGR temp sensor: a quick fix is to get a 100K Resistor from a local electronics store (cost 10 cents) and stick it in the connector to ecu for the EGR temp.

that will solve the CEL.

ok guys sorry for the delay in the surprise, it should be posted withen the next couple of days (maybe even tonight.....), i hope that you like it

[95-J30tt]

ok guys, i've been spending a couple of hours aday to get the car to idle right, i removed the Idle Control and cleaned it (using WD40), cleaned injectors again, diagnosed the injector wiring, relocated the ground to the engine itself instead of the chassis, adjusted the TPS (i got the Transmission to finally shift, but the rpm goes down sometimes when changing gears at above 2300 rpm, i have no idea what that is.....), and when i'm at a red light, the engine feels like it wants to stall, rpm fluctuates up and down between 400-800 rpm randomly (i would say every second it would happen twice)

i'm getting code 51 when i run the ECU codes, i've tried every possible method to diagnose it, but no luck, i've cleaned the injector connections and pins several times, ohmed the injectors and all are withen spec (12.6-12.7 ohm)...... any suggestions on what i should try next would be appreciated....... drape, thank you for the resistor method, it works great, now i'm down to only one code to get rid of the CEL.....

[J30Guy612]

Glad to see you are getting down to the last few problems man

Are the BOVs installed now? If they aren't that could be messing with your idle...

Good luck!

[95-J30tt]

i tried the CAS method to test out the injectors, they fired right up (all six, same sound intensity, checked each one three times to be absolutely sure), so i turned on the car (it took a couple of cranks), and tried the screw driver method, and checked all injectors twice, first at idle (idle doesnt exist yet in this engine), and the second time with reving the engine to 2000rpm (just to be sure)......... the engine is still not idling at all, when i let go of the gas, the engine is about to stall, then the rpm goes crazy, up and down, i'd say twice every second, from 1000 down to 300 and back up again and so on

so i took out the IAA unit, and the air regulator (for the third time), cleaned thoroughly with WD40, resistance checked out on all three components.... installed it back with a new seal for everything...... started the engine..... idle is still going crazy (when i start the engine, the rpm goes up to about 1200 for 5 seconds and she sounds smooth, and then all goes back to crazy), removed the AAC connector to set the idle to 600rpm, but it was already there ( when the connector is removed, the engine shakes and is about to stall, but it stays on).... i started doubting the coolant temp sensor, i ohmed it, cleaned the connectors, and put it back, but nothing changed......

swaped the TPS back to the J's stock one, now the engine ran a little better, adjusted it (the minimum i can go is 0.5 volts on both TPSs). if i set it to 0.5, the engine stalls, so i left it at .52, now engine barely runs (not shaking as much) and rpm is around 800 +- 50......

take her for a drive just to see if that work paid off..... nope it didnt, still drives like an old mustang, everytime i come to a stop with the transmission on D, the engine goes crazy (with the same symptom, RPM going up and down, if i dont assist the engine, it stalls)

on the way back, the engine started to sound louder, get it home, and notice that my exhaust pipes are almost fully broken off (on both sides, before the cats), the engine is still acting crazy, so i turned her off, waited till she cooled a little (you never know....loool), and here i am

any suggestions on what to check for??, i'll leave the exhaust pipes fix till the weekend, but even when the pipes broke off, the idle was not fixed at all

[drape123]

sinan, have you checked for a vacuum leak? if there is any leak ANYWHERE in the intake/turbo piping tract, your car will run crapppy...

easy way to check is to blow compressed air in your intake, block off half the pipes to intake with PVC butt ends (2" i think), and blow 10psi of compressed air into the motor/intercooler piping. if there is a little hole in an intercooler or anywhere else, the air reading will be off and it will run crappy...

if that comes back ok, grab a can of SEAFOAM. napa sells it for under $10. what you do is disconnect the brake booster line and let it suck all the sea foam into the motor. it will smoke like crazy but i swear it is the best way to clean your motor out.

hope this helps

i tried the CAS method to test out the injectors, they fired right up (all six, same sound intensity, checked each one three times to be absolutely sure), so i turned on the car (it took a couple of cranks), and tried the screw driver method, and checked all injectors twice, first at idle (idle doesnt exist yet in this engine), and the second time with reving the engine to 2000rpm (just to be sure)......... the engine is still not idling at all, when i let go of the gas, the engine is about to stall, then the rpm goes crazy, up and down, i'd say twice every second, from 1000 down to 300 and back up again and so on

so i took out the IAA unit, and the air regulator (for the third time), cleaned thoroughly with WD40, resistance checked out on all three components.... installed it back with a new seal for everything...... started the engine..... idle is still going crazy (when i start the engine, the rpm goes up to about 1200 for 5 seconds and she sounds smooth, and then all goes back to crazy), removed the AAC connector to set the idle to 600rpm, but it was already there ( when the connector is removed, the engine shakes and is about to stall, but it stays on).... i started doubting the coolant temp sensor, i ohmed it, cleaned the connectors, and put it back, but nothing changed......

swaped the TPS back to the J's stock one, now the engine ran a little better, adjusted it (the minimum i can go is 0.5 volts on both TPSs). if i set it to 0.5, the engine stalls, so i left it at .52, now engine barely runs (not shaking as much) and rpm is around 800 +- 50......

take her for a drive just to see if that work paid off..... nope it didnt, still drives like an old mustang, everytime i come to a stop with the transmission on D, the engine goes crazy (with the same symptom, RPM going up and down, if i dont assist the engine, it stalls)

on the way back, the engine started to sound louder, get it home, and notice that my exhaust pipes are almost fully broken off (on both sides, before the cats), the engine is still acting crazy, so i turned her off, waited till she cooled a little (you never know....loool), and here i am

any suggestions on what to check for??, i'll leave the exhaust pipes fix till the weekend, but even when the pipes broke off, the idle was not fixed at all

[elan]

Quote »has anyone had experiance with the irridium ix spark plugs?, the pic to the right is the new NGK Irridium IX and the one to the left is the original plugs that i took out of the engine....[/quote]I had Denso Irridum spark plugs for a year. I put NGK Double Platinum which is stock and have noticed more smooth idle and better low rev torque. It's said that it's better to stick to the stock , though NGK Irridium might be close to DP in their properties.

[DustinZ]

I am curious about the speed sensor calibration on the TT trans. I know the tt runs a 3.70 and the J runs 3.90. I am doing a tt trans and z32na engine swap on mine and have found alot of differences. I can't find the speed sensor for my tt trans anywhere and I have j30, z32 n/a auto, and z32 n/a 5speed sensors and none will fit. Does anyone have any ideas on this or a spare sensor from a swap? Drape or 95-j30tt any ideas?

DustinZ

[DustinZ]

Oh the tt yoke is the same as the z32 5 speed but the 5 speed does not have the outer dust sheild. The Q45 has the same yoke and dust sheild but it is a bolt on yoke with a rubber isolater. The oil dipstick tube can be easily relocated by taking off the pan and shoving a small rod up from the oil pan of the motor to pop out the plug in the Z32 block and then switch locations of the plug and dipstick. You guys already got the oil filter pedastal removal for the filter relocation to fit and of course thread the oil filter receiver from the j into the z32 block.

DustinZ

[elwesso]

Dustin, have you tried swapping just the pinion gear onto the Z32 speed sensor... Im sure the speedo sensors are different but the pinion gears should be swappable. When Q guys do the 4.08 swap they swap a J30 pinion gear onto the speedo sensor.

quesiton- are you saying the Q45 and 5 speed Z32 have the same yoke? Or were you talking about Q45 and AT twin turbo Z32?

So if thats correct, the only thing different between the Z32 5 speed driveshaft and the Z32 AT driveshaft shoudl be length, right? The 5 speed driveshaft is a bit shorter?

[swimshark]

hey a code 51 means there is no problem. i have scantechnissan for my J30 and when it reads 51 it automatically translates "no malfunction" for me.

[elwesso]

Thats not true... 55 is "no malfunction", 51 is INJECTOR CIRCUIT.

[DustinZ]

I don't have a speedsensor for the tt auto trans. The splines are the same fot 5 speed n/a 300zx, q45, and 300 tt auto. The yokes are the same except, the q45 is a bolt on yoke, 300zx tt is a u joint yoke, and the 5 speed n/a 300zx does not have the dust shield. Oh yeah, of course length.

DustinZ

[95-J30tt]

i damaged the TT auto transmission speed sensor (wires are cut from where the sensor meets the wires), i hope that i didnt junk it, i'll look for it and update

[95-J30tt]

ok guys, just updating about the progress up to now.....

about the hesitation at idle..... i found that one of the coils is no good, i replaced it and she ran a little better, but it was still a rough idle.... then i did a vacuum leak test which revealed a big leak in the passenger side turbo intake (the line from the MAF to the passenger side turbo, there was a loose clamp, very loose clamp....loool), now she idles a lot better, and doesnt die when braking nor when at a red light..... i must say that it still has a minor hesitation still..... so i'm still on it untill she purrrrs......

Replaced the fuel filter (it is slightly bigger than the stock J filter), i also checked all injectors using various methods, all of which uncovered that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the injectors, yet i'm still getting code 51 when i run the ECU diagnostic....... can you guys take a pic of those two plugs (including the wires on either end) for me please (the ones in the picture here..... http://www.q45.org/Project%20J30tt/PICT0344.JPG ).... these are the connections to the injectors harness, mine seems to have an extra purple wire (it is not part of the harness, it was like this when i got the car).... you can see the wire on the right hand side of this pictur http://www.q45.org/Project%20J30tt/PICT0342.JPG ..... i'm thinking that this wire is what is causing the code to come up....

i fixed one leak (it was coming from the oil filter relocation kit)..... and now i'm left with one engine oil leak, which is coming from the oil cooler return line (the line that leaves the oil cooler and goes to the oil pan).... i'll be needing a hoist for that job, so i'll keep adding oil untill next weekend and take it to the garage....

i got a new battery, and now the engine starts from first crank, and checked the alternator, it is charging at 14.3 Volts at idle..... i also found that one of the starter terminals is not connected tightly, so got that tightened....

i have a major transmission fluid leak coming from the drive shaft yoke.... again i will keep adding fluid and take it to the garage next week to be looked at..... i need a confirmation, isnt there suppose to be a seal that is pushed in place by the drive shaft yoke???, the leak does not appear when i drive normally, but when i floor it, it leaks like there is no tomorrow...... so i'm guessing that the seal is gone, or the drive shaft is not pushing the seal suffeciently (again i'm only guessing), any help reagarding this is appreciated..... oh yeah and i got the transmission mount bolts in place (all 4 of them..... finally)

Any help is greatly appreciated..... thank you


Modified by 95-J30tt at 4:00 AM 3/24/2007

[elwesso]

Sounds like you're making progress!

Theres a seal around the output shaft of the trans... Probably needs replaced...

[95-J30tt]

i'd really appreciate it if you can take the time to snap a photo for me, the links to the photo that i need is in my last post above, i just need to know if there is an external wire that is connected to the injector harness, thank you

[VG30DE]

Just read through this entire post.

Amazing project

[95-J30tt]

ok just an update...... the transmission yoke is replaced, strangely, it was leaking for the first day after the replacement, and then it just stoped, no more leak from the transmission, i also fixed the leak from the engine, so basically, the car has no more leaks.....

the hesitation issue is still there when the engine is cold, but once it gets to operating temperature, it purrs, so i'm looking into that after exams, my idle is good (idles at 900RPM when warm).....

the boost controller is off untill i can manage to find the time to fully install the intercoolers.... so a lot more pictures to come about that install

a strange noise developed over the past couple of weeks from the driver side tire, when breaks are applied, a clunk is heard, and a similar noise reversing, however, the outer tie rod is new, the ball joint is also new, so i dont know where it is coming from, but i know that my tension rod bushings are torn, i'm replacing them in a week or so (i really doubt that it would make this noise), i would appreciate your input on what to check for.....

[VG30DE]

That tension rod bushing is definitely causing the clunking you are describing.

I am going to do both of the them on my 93 next week as well. Please let me know how the install goes on your end!

What's up with some new video of the J30TT with some BOVs?

[95-J30tt]

i'm ordering the tension rods in a week, i'll go with the solid ones

no updates as of now, but waiting for exams to finish next week so i can unleash the small projects left to complete the drivetrain and cosmetics work...

drivetrain work:

adjusting the TPS and idle air control valve (it works now, but hesitating when cold) replace spark plugs (those buggers are expensive, 19$ a piece..... yes 19X6) install the intercoolers perminantley, and modify the BOV's flanges to fit the new set-up check for leaks, and install the oil dipstick (the tt dipstick doesnt work because the oil pan is of the J and not the 300zx) replace the tension rods replacing rotors with drilled ones and new brakes all around

cosmetic work: HID kit install infiniti G35 rims and tires (will have to wait untill august or so) full paint job (keeping the same color, also tinting the windows lightly) mount the extra t in the back (that is the only hint ), can you guys help me locate a gold t ??, i have gold emblems replace the driver seat (or repair the leather, it is not torn, but in a bad shape), along with the front door trims, i'd really appreciate it if you guys can help me locate ones in good shape, i have a beige interior clean up the wire and hoses mess in the back of the engine bay i'm hoping to complete the above list by the end of august, the lists are not in order, i'll follow the lists from the most important (intercoolers) to the least (rims).... work will start next week...... i have a feeling that a lot more pics an videos are to come to this forum soon

by the way, here is how my engine looks like as of a couple of weeks ago, i havent changed a thing yet (exams time is a slow and painful killer)

http://q45.org/gallery/v/PICT1665.JPG.html

i'd appreciate your opinions and input

[elwesso]

Joe at infiniti of scottsdale has the plugs for cheaper, you would definitely save including shipping to canada!! He has them for like $6US each... Call him up, youll use PFR6G-11

[johngriff]

I just wanted to chime in real quick, I noticed on page 1 that you are using range 5's.

And you are suggesting range 6.

You NEED 7's, with a tight gap .031-.026"and US spec iridiums? Those are a joke.If you want quality race plus IRIMAC 7's by NGK is where it is at.

Otherwise NGK-R's are just fine.

Warm Up idle.Sounds like the Map got trashed in the chip you installed, why did you chip again?Coolant temp sensor.Set timing.

Ok, and a quick explanation of a Injector Harness.

You have 1 power wire, and with the z 370cc high impedance injector, no resistors.

1 power wire splits to 6 power wires. This wire is activated by the ECCS relay. The 6 go to on pin on each fuel injector, respectively.

The other pin on the fuel injector is the Injector ground/signal. This wire connects directly to the ECU from the injector. When the ECU would like to open the injector, it gounds it.

You could wire up the harness in such a fassion, if you are getting a code 51 it sounds like you have a bad connection in the pins in plug (fuel injector) or in the ground wire, from the connector to the ecu.

TEST!!

Oh yeah, i just got a set of 17x8's for my brother 93j, and he said he did not want them, wanted to leave his j stock, and build a 240sx.

I am selling these wheels, they are very very very nice.

[95-J30tt]

thank you for the input john.... any pic of the rims??

[pbuddha]

What do you think about doing a tt converting a non-touring j30, ie w/o HICAS...bad idea?

[95-J30tt]

it would be exactly the same procedure......

[95-J30tt]

just updating, the tt transmission burnt 10 days ago, i got a new one, installed it today, it was a long procedure, but nothing too complicated, so i have the tt rolling again..... will be looking into what caused the issue with the old transmission, adjusting TPS again, and starting with the above list.... i'll keep you posted

[VG30DE]

So this is the 3rd transmission that has been in that car?

[95-J30tt]

yup.... LOL

[drape123]

Sinan, only thing that will really make the vg30 trannys die is overheating. check to make sure your transmission cooler is not clogged up in any way. make sure you are getting good fluid pressure too

just updating, the tt transmission burnt 10 days ago, i got a new one, installed it today, it was a long procedure, but nothing too complicated, so i have the tt rolling again..... will be looking into what caused the issue with the old transmission, adjusting TPS again, and starting with the above list.... i'll keep you posted