Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

Post by **idahotuner** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:13 pm

yeah well the thing was i took everything out and forgot to take the shims out. my mistake. i did label everything and keep track of everything. i just forgot to take the shims out. and it looked liek they were part of the retianers.

well this could be a small part of the bigger problem too.

get this fixed. i will bleed the lifters again. and that should help out part hopefully.

Post by **Slideways^Jordan** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:55 pm

Yeah i know what you mean the guides and are simple to take out if you use a magnet.

man i hope that fixes the problem.

Post by **idahotuner** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:02 am

well i am going to hit up autozone and see if i can rent a micrometer. and a shim measurer.

Post by **idahotuner** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 4:14 pm

well guys we got good news and bad news. bad news i couldnt find that tool to rent any where so i am going have to buy one to reshim my valves. i did get a digital caliper. to actually measure the shims.

other good news. did a pressure test and found about 7 leaks in my intercooler piping and at the throttle body. i moved the boost gauge to come of the egr vacuum nipple. i had the gauge sitting in the engine bay so when i pressurized it i could see how much was in it. so when i started it from the inside i was unable to see the vacuum.i changed the oil to get the flooded fuel out of the oil. and when i primed the engine again after changing it. i heard the oil pump prime. then i hooked up the fuel pump and let it prime.turned her over and she started right up and the idle drop right down to 700rpms and the ticking wasnt near as loud any more. and the engine was purring sounded great. actually.......

i still need to pull it apart to do the shiming. but other then that i think i may have just a few little adjustments to make. and we will have her running great.

Post by **offroadbob** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:12 pm

Very Good to hear! hopefully everything continues to keep going smoothly for you!

(yea i know I don't comment very often.. I guess I would rather read than look like a complete dumb a$$ when I do comment, even though at times very brief)

Post by **White Comet** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:46 am

quick question, are you saying the boost gauge is currently hooked up to the nipple on the tb meant for emissions?

Post by **addisonblck** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:51 am

sweet...get er on the road man...lol

but i do have a question.....

1st Are the cams on a KA and a SR similar?

if so......if i was to take the valve cover off my car(ka) ,leavin the cams exposed for maybe 30mins(covered by a thin line of paper towels), would i need to bleed the vavles?

if so....

how the hell do u do that...? lol im a fool i no but.... every village need there idiot.

Post by **Didderson** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:18 am

addisonblck wrote:sweet...get er on the road man...lol

but i do have a question.....

1st Are the cams on a KA and a SR similar?

if so......if i was to take the valve cover off my car(ka) ,leavin the cams exposed for maybe 30mins(covered by a thin line of paper towels), would i need to bleed the vavles?

if so....

how the hell do u do that...? lol im a fool i no but.... every village need there idiot.

Nah man, KA's are easy. They're cam and bucket design. No rockers to mess with. That's the only thing the KA and CA have over the SR IMO.

Post by **idahotuner** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:23 am

White Comet wrote:quick question, are you saying the boost gauge is currently hooked up to the nipple on the tb meant for emissions?

yeah i am saying that because i had the fpr line Teed off and the boost gauge coming off that but when i did the pressure tester air was coming out of the erg nipple like crazy so to take car of it i took the T out of the fp line and hook the boost gauge up to that. so i have no tees anywhere in my vacuum line set up.

Post by **addisonblck** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:24 am

sweet.....ive been searchin all morning for answers found sum but nothin certain......but im now positive that not only is my tensioner nasty but i gotta get rid of the guides and ive got some of my valves messin up.

booo for me.

Post by **idahotuner** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 12:41 pm

throw that thing out and geta SR man haha

Post by **addisonblck** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:29 pm

silly idaho...sr's are for kids...lol

i joke i keed! lol ive actually been lookin into...but i need the movitvatio of an engine detination ....plus i aint get paid all that much. lol

Post by **White Comet** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:32 pm

idahotuner wrote:
yeah i am saying that because i had the fpr line Teed off and the boost gauge coming off that but when i did the pressure tester air was coming out of the erg nipple like crazy so to take car of it i took the T out of the fp line and hook the boost gauge up to that. so i have no tees anywhere in my vacuum line set up.

iirc, you arent supposed to use that line for vac stuff. i woudl just plug it with a vac cap

Post by **idahotuner** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 5:19 am

no reason no to it works jsut the same as the other nipple on the intake manifold.

Post by **Didderson** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:03 pm

idahotuner wrote:no reason no to it works jsut the same as the other nipple on the intake manifold.

Idaho, i've been there done that. I ran my BOV suction vacuum line from that nipple and it doesn't see really any vacuum at idle. you're supposed to T off the FPR line in order to run a bov suction tube (not release). keep in mind this is only for Greddy type s or w/e valves. if you have the newer HKS SSQV then you only need the 1 vac line from the big nipple.

Take a look at your throttle body and note where the nipples come thru the casting. the emissions line doesn't end up behind the TB. Therefore it won't read correct vacuum at idle because even at idle turbo spins mild boost or w/e. it has to be on the intake plenum side of the TB to read true vacuum and boost.

Please cap off the line man lol. I'm not gonna lecture anymore. If u need help w/ the setup give me an IM or something.

-Tom

Post by **codyace** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:52 pm

Either I'm tired and can't see it, or just can't read, but how exactly did you bleed your lifters?

I've always put them in a old bowl/cup (specifically an old plastic container from a chinese place that you get WonTon soup in) filled with cheapy oil. I let the soak for a bit, then, while submerged and sitting up straight, I stick a small allen into them and watch the bubbles squirt out...

I've done this on a few cars (even ones where the shims have scattered) and been lucky to not have any valvetrain noise

Post by **White Comet** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:42 am

Didderson wrote:
Idaho, i've been there done that. I ran my BOV suction vacuum line from that nipple and it doesn't see really any vacuum at idle. you're supposed to T off the FPR line in order to run a bov suction tube (not release). keep in mind this is only for Greddy type s or w/e valves. if you have the newer HKS SSQV then you only need the 1 vac line from the big nipple.

Take a look at your throttle body and note where the nipples come thru the casting. the emissions line doesn't end up behind the TB. Therefore it won't read correct vacuum at idle because even at idle turbo spins mild boost or w/e. it has to be on the intake plenum side of the TB to read true vacuum and boost.

Please cap off the line man lol. I'm not gonna lecture anymore. If u need help w/ the setup give me an IM or something.

-Tom

exactly the point i was getting at

codyace wrote:Either I'm tired and can't see it, or just can't read, but how exactly did you bleed your lifters?

I've always put them in a old bowl/cup (specifically an old plastic container from a chinese place that you get WonTon soup in) filled with cheapy oil. I let the soak for a bit, then, while submerged and sitting up straight, I stick a small allen into them and watch the bubbles squirt out...

I've done this on a few cars (even ones where the shims have scattered) and been lucky to not have any valvetrain noise

i dont remember him saying how he did it but thats the way i always heard to do it as well. ilikemy240sx covers bleeding the lifters in his build on how to build an sr20det head that can rev to 9k+rpms

Post by **addisonblck** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:48 am

howdy fellas....wondering if ya could point me in the direction of a ka bleed thread....looked all sat and most of today and came up with crap....?

Post by **idahotuner** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:47 pm

i coppied ilovemy240sx way to bleed the lifters.... and i went and looked at the hose set up and i have my FPR hooked up to that nipple. and boost gauge is hooked up to another one.

i think my injectors are leaking and that is causing the flooding. i am going to check them.

i love my 240sx hada long convo of stuff to check and fix. so i am going to go through that.

Post by **addisonblck** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:18 pm

sweeti keep findin all kinds of stuff for the sr but nuttin for me but im still lookin'

thanx bro

Post by **idahotuner** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:48 pm

addisonblck wrote:sweeti keep findin all kinds of stuff for the sr but nuttin for me but im still lookin'

thanx bro

hey buddy i bet the reason you arnt getting any info about your ka in this thread is because i am building and SR lol

so try the kat forums.. might find something there. i do like having you here. maybe get you to throw that ka out

Post by **Didderson** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 3:42 pm

addison I told u in another thread that you don't even have hydraulic lifters... so you don't need to bleed them lol. You have regular cam and bucket lifters. Simple reliable design .

PS why do u want the hood from a chuki. pig hood will work fine unless yours is damaged.

Post by **addisonblck** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 3:49 pm

lol srry....hehe didnt realize but yea mines beat. i just want a new hood...any will do.....as long as it fits.

idaho : my bad man...threadjackin not on purpose....and i would throw it out but im one poor airman..

Post by **idahotuner** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:32 pm

lol it is cool dude.....

well i have been a little lazy to work on my car. partially because i have been a little discouraged. having to pull the head back apart

if i had the tool i could do it in a day and get her done with. i guess i can pull it apart and test some other stuff. i kidna hope the injector leaking is the reason for the flooding cause that should be an easy fix.

Post by **White Comet** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:34 am

i hope its something simple like leaky injectors but i wouldnt imagine that brand new injectors wouldnt be working properly. either way, good luck trouble shooting

Post by **idahotuner** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:08 am

you an me both WC. and that can be the only place i am having a problem because fp is set low and it is still flooding. and plus it take the fuel pump forever to pressurize the system. which makes me think it is cause it is leaking around the injectors as well.

how can i get the injectors out without damaging them though?

Post by **JRPS13** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:12 am

where do you guys get these coilovers from?im from canada so id probably get these off the net

Post by **idahotuner** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:22 am

well i jsut ordered tires. fedral 595's 235/40/17 and 275/40/17 total is 359 shipped to my door. cant beat that.

Post by **idahotuner** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:38 am

JRPS13 wrote:where do you guys get these coilovers from?im from canada so id probably get these off the net

that is how i get everything is off the net. http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/news.php this is for the coilovers and RUCAS

Post by **idahotuner** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:46 am

ok guys i need input on how to tak e my injectors out and not destroy them in the process.

and here is a link to show how i am going to measure the valve shims http://www.sr20forum.com/techn....html

Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

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