Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

[codyace]

1. Recheck all vacuum leaks, intercooler hoses, and intake manifold for leaks

2. Ensure your MAF wiring is correct.

3. with the hood up, sr20's are kinda noisy in the valvetrain...just one of those deals

4. Even if super rich via FPR, it would still run normally.

[idahotuner]

leaks might be an issue. i will check all of those.

we know the maf wiring is correct.

the hood is off. but it wasnt this loud before i rebuilt it. i think it is just the lifters.

it is still having a hard time starting i know i need to change the oil because it got some gas in it from flooding it.

i am going to unplug the iacv and see what that affects

[idahotuner]

my car start up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQA-2j3pmg8
Modified by idahotuner at 4:23 PM 3/4/2008

[idahotuner]

oh so my vacuum gauge is reading at like 3 vacuum. so we thing there is a huge vacuum leak some where most likely around the intake manifold. what do you guys think. you think that could be the problem. that would make since for the flooding of fuel. and could fix quita few of the problems hopefully.so i am going see if i can get it fired up and then go around the intake pipes with carb cleaner and see ifi can find the leak possibly.

[duffman1278]

What is that ticking noise in the video???? Doesn't sound right....is it just the bigger cams?

[Slideways^Jordan]

Nice update

It could be the vacume a normal vacume reading is going to be around 18 to 19 to 20 at idle so if its only pulling 3 their has to be a huge vacume leak somewherer upseting the air to fuel ratio cuaseing it to run very rich so start looking for vacume leaks around the couplers make sure their all tight then if that works and the idle isnt right then adjust IACV screw

And ben why is it ticking so load is it just the cams or did you bleed the HLA lifters properly

oh ok i know its just the injectors ticking on an off lol ok nv mind

[Didderson]

those injectors must be crazy ready for boost with a healthy noise like that

If your vaccum is 3 then that IS the problem. No iffs ands or buts. Like others said it should be creeping towards 20.

If you used the old vaccum line feed that was originally for the charcoal cannister for your FPR vaccum input you're wrong. that line doesn't really see vacuum so I'm hoping that's your problem. Cap off that line, it is the one that's bent 90 degrees. note: all vaccum lines on SR's come off of your throttle body. 2 up top which you use, and 1 bent one you don't use unless ur a nub running the EVAP system.

it doesn't see vaccum because its hole is in front of the TB, only seeing vaccum when throttle is open.

BTW check if your BOV is leaking. That would also cause a loss of air and or vacuum leak. Should be able to run your hand around it and not feel airflow.

Gettin' there man. GL

[idahotuner]

the ticking sound is a combination of injectors and hydraulic lifters. i am going change the oil friday weh ni worko n it again. and that will hopefully make the ticking not so loud. and i am going makea pressure tester. and check everything with that. so hopefully that takes care of the problem.

[Slideways^Jordan]

the ticking sound is a combination of injectors and hydraulic lifters. i am going change the oil friday weh ni worko n it again. and that will hopefully make the ticking not so loud. and i am going makea pressure tester. and check everything with that. so hopefully that takes care of the problem.

ok cool ill keep checking for updates

[idahotuner]

oh i am going to temporarily hook up my oil pressure gauge to see what is going on with that. the light goes off on the dash as soon as i crank it so i think i am getting good oil pressure

we are going hook up all my gauges when we change the windsheild at least that is what my dad says i want to do it sooner.

[White Comet]

why are you waiting til then? ts not a hard task to hook the gauges up with everything in

[Slideways^Jordan]

yeah its actually pretty simple to hook up all your guages

[idahotuner]

well i dont really know what the reason is for waiting my dad things it will be easier to run wires and sh*t for the gauge pod on the piller. but i dont think it really matters. when my dad gets back we will be hitting the body work hard core to try and get this finished so i can get her on the road. with us just focusing on body work we should be able to have it ready to paint in no time.

i still have a few things i need to order here i nthe next month or so. at least before it hits the road. main things are the coilovers and rucas. and hlsd. and wheels and tires. those are the next items on the list. should have them all by the end of this month. then it is just tinny little add ons.

and interior crap.

[Alpha_Maverick]

ummm... guys? If there was a *HUGE* vacuum leak, and it *was* running rich, it should've started up, and spun up to about 4k rpm. You might have a vacuum leak, but that is not your problem. Your cams are out of whack. pull the valve cover, and make sure that the cams are timed properly. In order to be down to 3 inches of mercury, your cams would be off by several teeth, not just "misadjusted" (not sure if you're using adjustable cam gears). BTW, that *may* help your ticking noise.

[idahotuner]

i know for a fact. DEAD ON. my cams are set properly. i made sure it was on tdc the silver links on the chained lined up with the cams at 10 and 12. i made sure of that. i did alot of reading. and yea i get what you say with the huge vaccum leak. it should still start up. but i have huge injectors and i think it floods it out before it can fire up. with a vacuum leak. causei have been able to start it with a intercooler hose pooped al lthe way off.

[idahotuner]

friday i will do this stuff. doing a leak tester maybe adjusting the CAS while it is running i will loosen the screws and turn the cas: and see if it smooths it out i will do al lthat after i hook up the oil presure gauge: and change the oil i hope to get alot of the bugs worked out i have soem other thigns i am going try to liek starting it up with the IACV disconnected

[idahotuner]

ummm... guys? If there was a *HUGE* vacuum leak, and it *was* running rich, it should've started up, and spun up to about 4k rpm.

It is starting up and i ran it for 20 mins yesterday. by itself.

[idahotuner]

well guy i just ordered my PBM coilovers and RUCAS. can wait tell the shipment arrives.

[Slideways^Jordan]

Nice i would like to to know how your thoghts are on the PBM coils once you get the car running right an drivable.
Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 11:27 PM 3/5/2008

[JRPS13]

i myself would like to know how you like those coilovers, im waiting for my wheels to come in and then i will order some coilovers, i was thinking megan... any opinions?

[White Comet]

^ pbm>megan

[idahotuner]

i myself would like to know how you like those coilovers, im waiting for my wheels to come in and then i will order some coilovers, i was thinking megan... any opinions?

megans are cheep. for 120 dollars more why not get something that is quality. has alot of R and D to back it up. and it rack proven as well.

[codyace]

3" of hg? .....

I'd def want to get checkin on that timing...

I can remember building an engine once and lining up the links on the bottom wrong (my mind was off that day and placed TDC in the wrong spot). Car fired up, ran 'ok'...had issues ideling and the sort....and wasn't pulling much vacuum.....I went to set timign and we couldn't get the CAS to even get near 15....thats when I knew we had an issue.

As far as the car revving higher with vacuum lines off, that is hit and miss with domestics in my experience..SR's tend to want to idel lower and rougher....

Not saying its' a must, but def check otu http://www.blazt.biz and look into their NissanDataScan and cable. Invaluable tool.

Does it seem to rev at all or no?

[idahotuner]

it will rev it is just laggy.

and as far as vaccum. i want ot get it started up and monitor the vacuum gauge for a while. because it was just a thought and when i climbed in side to look at it. it looked liek it was n 3 and then i went ot rev it a little to see if the needle would move and it died. so i am going to check out soem stuff and see.

as far as timing.

when i was able to slide the cas dimples lines up it twisted when i slid it in to line up with the 15 degrees off TDC. it was idling pretty smooth when it had it running. it was just the ticking that kinda kept me from hearing the motor really well.

i bought motor oil last night 12 quarts for liek 17 bucks. or cheep stuff to run through it. then change it and run it some more. to try and get the flooded fuel out of the oil.

oh justa thought. maybe for the cams i am not suppose to have the timing off like that. because i remeber o nthe paper for installling them whe n itook it to he shop the gu ywas looking at it and he was liek they want to set the timing straigh up. not advanced or retarded. so i am wondering could that be it.

[idahotuner]

noisy lifters that will not quiet down= Check the oil pan for dents before starting your engine. Even the smallest dent can kill your engine!

i got that off the heavy throttle web site. i think my lifters are just noisy because of the deluted oil from flooding. we wil ltest this theory on friday.

also i remebered i havea head gasket that is 1.1mm instead of stock .8 mm you guys think that could throw anything off.

[idahotuner]

you know i was thinking . rmeber when i lost all my shims in th parts washer. and i had to figure out where they went again. i doner if i could have done that wrong. it doesnt seem like it. we measured al lte shims and they were all 3 mm. and i know i installed the right one on the right valves. so that is proabably not the reason. for the ticking

[Slideways^Jordan]

Thing is ben if their is any little bit of air in the lifters they cant be bleed by adding new oil and running the engine

any time you take the head off and the lifters are out they need to bleed properly did you bleed the HLA Lifters when you did the head and they need to be sitting strait up and not on their side.

Heres what it syas about the lifters in the FSM.AEM117b. Remove hydraulic lash adjuster and dip in a container filledwith new engine oil. While pushing plunger as shown in figure,lightly push check ball using a thin rod. Air is completely bledwhen plunger no longer moves.Air cannot be bled from this type of lash adjuster by running

[idahotuner]

yeah i know i bled the lifters liek that befor i put them back in but i thin kthe thing maybe that when we put the oil pan on we flipped the motor sideways it was only for like 15 mins or so. and it wasnt al lthe way sideways just tilted. but that was after we put the head back on. so i wonder if the lifters could have lost soem of there oil that way and that is why they are ticking?

[idahotuner]

ok so i found the problem for the ticking. it is the rocker armsremeber that incident wit hthe parts washer and amm my shims getting lost. well the guy meassured them and said they were all 3mm. BS .

so i am going ahve to pull my valve cover back off pul lthe cams out . buy this tool. http://www.sr20forum.com/custo....html and measure them and put them back in. that should take care of the ticking.

[Slideways^Jordan]

dude that sux but that tool is really awsome i think i might get one maybe for later use in the future.

Thats also why you should label all your guides and shims in sandwich baggies for exhuast side and intake side for all four cylinders.

damn that sux

well atleast you learned something from this i hope lol.