I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[HeadAblaze]

Im at the very end of my 5 speed conversion but I cannot get the transmission onto the shaft on the back of the engine. The pilot bearing was replaced and put in all the way and the teeth fit fine through the clutch and bearing. I think something is in the way but Im clueless. I have already removed the clutch/ flywheel 3 times to try different things. Any help/ advice is appreciated.


Edit: The car is a 90. The engine is from a 98 and the transmission is from a 91. From what Ive searched, I should not have any problem with this combination. It appears that the transmission gets caught on the nipple that holds the dust plate on and also that the bolt holes do not line up correctly. I called it quits recently since it was getting dark. Again, any input is appreciated.

Im not sure if its the same as 90s but I just replaced the clutch in my 95 while it was on jackstands and putting the trans back in was a pain. we had to rotate the transmission until the bell housing for the starter was facing towards the ground otherwise the spline wouldnt slip in correctly due to the bell housing hitting the firewall. after we got the spline in, we put the lower starter bolt into the transmission hole and rotated the whole thing into place. On 95s if you dont put the bolt in before you get everything else bolted up you wont be able to put it in due top the firewall (again).

hope that helps you out a bit? the firewalls might be different in 90s vs 95s though so you might not have any of those problems.

I had this same problem, now, just to give you a good visual, I'm 5'10 and 135 lbs, so not big at all. So I did my clutch on my 90 sohc about a week ago, my buddy bailed on me, so I had to put the transmission in by myself. The car sits like 3 inches off the ground, so it was on 4 jack stands. What I did, and was recomended to do by a good guy I know Eli, was to drop the exhaust to where the manifold is still attached to the head, but everything else is hanging. That should angle the motor perfectly to where the transmission slides right in without the dang firewall getting in the way. I got mine in almost all the way, about an inch left to go, then just started puttng the bolts in to pull it together the rest of the way. I don't know if this will acually help anyone out, but it made it very easy. Oh yeah, I also has the assistance of 2 jacks as well, one on the bell housing, and the other on the end.

[irishman9308]

do they make a dual exhaust for the 240 and what body kit would work with it or would i have to do some custom job on it?

[speedeast]

Dual exhaust on the 4-cylinder? In order to maintain back pressure the tubing would be so small that it would be impractical. And to date, I have yet to find a rear bumper that was made for dual exhaust in mind. You could probably find one that seals the back up and you can dump the exhaust under the bumper. Unless you have a V6 or larger creating a fair amount of power, dual exhaust is pointless. If you're doing it for looks, it would make more sense just to strap an exhaust tip up in the back. After considering all of that you're going to look under your car and see that the fuel tank makes it impossible, so now a fuel cell is a mandatory change.

I guess I'll end with: why?

[irishman9308]

Dual exhaust on the 4-cylinder? In order to maintain back pressure the tubing would be so small that it would be impractical. And to date, I have yet to find a rear bumper that was made for dual exhaust in mind. You could probably find one that seals the back up and you can dump the exhaust under the bumper. Unless you have a V6 or larger creating a fair amount of power, dual exhaust is pointless. If you're doing it for looks, it would make more sense just to strap an exhaust tip up in the back. After considering all of that you're going to look under your car and see that the fuel tank makes it impossible, so now a fuel cell is a mandatory change.

I guess I'll end with: why?

i woud be sticking with the 4 cylinder and yes for looks, i just like the look of dual exhaust systems and with the fuel tank it makes the exhaust tip not fit right? (sorry i just got this car and i'm still learning all about it, so i have no idea what you mean when you say fuel cell)

[PapaSmurf2k3]

He is saying that the stock fuel tank will get in the way of running your exhaust... but you might be able to figure something out. Just get it up on a lift and go to town. If you can't get around your stock fuel tank, you'll have to remove it and add a fuel cell to your trunk instead (like what speedeast said).

[KYZAAC]

i installed a greddy knock off intake manifold on my SR, i need help running some of the lines. When i got the SR there were no fuel lines, they were just capped off .
There's 2 ports under the throttle body, i think one line goes to the small port on the FPR, And the other for the BOV, does that sound right?
Where does the line from the bigger port on the FPR go?
There are 2 more fittings on the back of the manifold, one for the brake booster, the other is a swivel fitting, where does this go?
The PCV, where is this line going to go?
Thanks for any help!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Post pictures and/or repost that question in the SR forum.

[KYZAAC]

i'll take a few pics tomorow, until then i'll try the sr forum.

[KYZAAC]

i was just out in the garage and im pretty sure i got it figured out.
PCV to rear Swivel Fitting
fuel rail - rear port closest to firewall -to- fuel filter
front port (fpr) -to- hardline that goes back to the tank

[speedeast]

One way to think about it that may help. On the compression stroke, air sneaks by into the crank case. In order to prevent building up of pressure in the crank case, there are vent lines that connect to the crank case somewhere and lead to your intake manifold. The PCV valve (or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) allows air to escape the crankcase lines, but prevents air from going back in.

The fuel rail should have two fuel lines, and one vacuum line on the FPR. The incoming fuel gets hooked to the fuel line furthest from the FPR. The FPR limits fuel pressure by allowing fuel to pass back to the tank, because the fuel pump produces more pressure than necessary.

Good luck.

[HeadAblaze]

Does it always do it at a certain speed, or certain RPM? Check your engine grounds.

yes i does.

I have the same problm, bu for me, its the plugs on the transmission. I couldn't get them unplugged to drop my transmission, so I just temporarily cut them off. Well after doing that, the speedo doesn't work, same with mileage, and when I get on the car a little, at around 5k, the engine will cut completely off. All I do is push the clutch back in to bring the rpms back down and it turns right back on. I'm just really too lazy to get under the car and fix it. But yeah, check those plugs.

[thefallen]

I hav a 95 s14 lowered on coils about 2 in, i wanna get the 117 in xxr 522, what offset should i get to hav them look nice but not rub the fenders, also what tire size should i get, wheels sizes/offsets/etc are difficult to understand please explain

[nk4e]

I was cleaning out the contacts from the headlight combo switch and two of the white plastic pieces fell out of order and I do not know how they go back it otherwise my hi-beams are in all the time.

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[PapaSmurf2k3]

^ Not exactly sure, I've never come across that, but you could just put it back together with a 50-50 shot, and if you're high beams are on all the time, just take it apart and put it back together the other way.

[speedeast]

I hav a 95 s14 lowered on coils about 2 in, i wanna get the 117 in xxr 522, what offset should i get to hav them look nice but not rub the fenders, also what tire size should i get, wheels sizes/offsets/etc are difficult to understand please explain

Depends on wheel width. They only have a few different offset options. For 8 inch wheel, go for +35mm offset; for 9.5 inch wheel, go for +25mm.

[Michaelmoore]

Are the s14 5 lug hubs a direct bolt on to an s13?

Like if I were to go get just the hubs off of a parts car could I just swap them and be done? Or do I need any of the other braking/suspension parts?

[KYZAAC]

One way to think about it that may help. On the compression stroke, air sneaks by into the crank case. In order to prevent building up of pressure in the crank case, there are vent lines that connect to the crank case somewhere and lead to your intake manifold. The PCV valve (or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) allows air to escape the crankcase lines, but prevents air from going back in.

The fuel rail should have two fuel lines, and one vacuum line on the FPR. The incoming fuel gets hooked to the fuel line furthest from the FPR. The FPR limits fuel pressure by allowing fuel to pass back to the tank, because the fuel pump produces more pressure than necessary.

Good luck.

thanks for the info man! it's alot easier to do things, when you actually know why your doing it lol

[speedeast]

Are the s14 5 lug hubs a direct bolt on to an s13?

Like if I were to go get just the hubs off of a parts car could I just swap them and be done? Or do I need any of the other braking/suspension parts?

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/insta ... rsion.html

thanks for the info man! it's alot easier to do things, when you actually know why your doing it lol

I feel ya.

[OutToWinPAHC]

The rear NA z32 hubs bolt right on / Same for S14 rear hubs. The front are a different design / knuckle all together and do not work (though anything is possible with fab)

For the front you need
S14 5 lug hubs
S14 Knuckles
S14 LCA's or S13 LCAs with S14 LBJs pressed into them
You then need a reducer for the S13 shocks / coils since the S14 knuckles use a larger strut to knuckle bolt.

Or just good old conversion hubs with OE bearing (s13 bearing that is)

Not search cause there are people who who have re-drilled the 4 lug hubs for 5 lug, and J30 hubs can be modded to work, but there is a safety concern with the locking ring I believe.

[Michaelmoore]

Alright sweet, thanks.

[Limiter]

Hi all really like the site, Ive been browsing around a bit but here is my question. Would it be better to buy a 240 from someone who has already done the swap, or buy a 240 and do the swap myself (maybe pay someone but I am adamant on doing my own swap). The ones I have been looking at are from 4000$ to 8000$ with the swap one of them not running cause he doesn't have the tune for all the crap he threw on the engine (new turbo, intake, headers, pistons, exhaust etc etc). The ones I can buy are SR's but if I did a swap it would be a CA18. I'm lookin for around 300hp maybe 400 but I have LFS (lead foot syndrome) so having to pay speeding fines and deal with the cops isn't on my to do list. Oh ya the ones I would modify don't run past 93 in the model year.

One other thing can you get the spedo from an auto to read for a manual?? If i did the swap I want to still have A/C (gets hot here) plus the revs and speed readable on my dash.

[supa89]

hey guys recently i just blew my 240sx stock engine...so im thinking about to swap it with sr20det redtop...just wondering how much the labor gonna cost?

[KYZAAC]

i just noticed my fuel rail that came with my sr is bent, im upgrading to a circuit sports stock replacement rail, and planned to go with a megan racing fuel pressure regulator. is it ok to run this fpr on a basically stock sr? or is a rising rate fpr absolutely NEEDED? or is it needed for bigger turbo?
thanks

[irishman9308]

would it be cheaper to transmission swap a '98 s14 or try and find a manual one?

[speedeast]

i just noticed my fuel rail that came with my sr is bent, im upgrading to a circuit sports stock replacement rail, and planned to go with a megan racing fuel pressure regulator. is it ok to run this fpr on a basically stock sr? or is a rising rate fpr absolutely NEEDED? or is it needed for bigger turbo?
thanks

You should just get a good adjustable one and call it a day.

would it be cheaper to transmission swap a '98 s14 or try and find a manual one?

If you already own the automatic, then it's easier just to swap. It's an easy conversion. There are write-ups all over the place if you search the site.

[irishman9308]

what do you think would be the best transmission to get for it if i want to use my car as a daily driver but able to have fun/weekend drifter?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, realistically there's only 1 option, and that would be the 5 speed. The 6 speed was sold in Japan, but its rather expensive, and weaker than the 5 speed. Just put a better clutch in there while you're at it.

[speedeast]

Well, realistically there's only 1 option, and that would be the 5 speed. The 6 speed was sold in Japan, but its rather expensive, and weaker than the 5 speed. Just put a better clutch in there while you're at it.

+1

[irishman9308]

what 5 speed? the silvia 5 speed? or a different company/brand?

[boarding2008]

whats up guys. im glad to say i bought an s13 hatch. just got it yesterday . still geting used to the car and interior of where stuff is lol. im not new to cars by any means. this is my 5th car. my first 4 were all honda/acruas (fwd). i wanted something rwd, dependable and has good base for aftermarket parts. car only has 86k miles, its an 89'. only a few problems tho. the driver side headlight doesnt go up. i tried google searching but kept coming up with the opposite were it wont go down. im guessing its the motor thats shot. it makes an aweful noise if i push the button to have them go down. can i just get a replacement motor or does the whole headlight assembly have to come out.

second problem is that the passenger side seatbelt doesnt slide forward or back (it has the power sliding ones obviously) when i put the key in or when the passenger door is opened it clicks for about 15-30secs. i can grab the seatbelt clip and move it to the front and down the back. did it just fall off track? ive never had a car with either pop-up lights or sliding seatbelts.

last kind of a problem is winter is aproaching, i live in Western New York where we get a good amount of snow fall. the car is 100% stock. not lowered, no intake, nothing. i planned on undercoating the car to keep it in good condition. but what about tires and would a LSD of any type help me in the snow? im almost positive my car has an open diff. i dont see why it wouldnt. would a welded diff be any good in the snow. my friend has an extra one bc his 240 is underconstruction right now.

and last question is more about the nissan side of the import "scene". coming from honda/acura i was more into the "jdm/clean" side of the spectrum. i am building a civic hatch with a boosted single cam that will be pushing out 300+whp. i could never understand spending money on neon and lambo doors. but being that these cars are rwd and such. are MILD body kits acceptable or looked down upon. mainly just a front bumper, sides and rear bumper with either a typeX wing or wingless.

sorry for such a long intro btw haha.