I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[Michaelmoore]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The mating marks are for installation only. Once you start turning it, they don't matter anymore. You can still get it back to top dead center when the #1 piston is at the end of it's compression stroke. Once everything is together with the mating marks in place, you're golden. Don't worry about the mating mark meeting back where they're supposed to be. Good luck.

Thanks a ton. We thought maybe they didnt matter anymore afterwards but didn't want to do anything else until we were sure.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So I live in CA, and have a newer friend interested in parts off a 300zx 2+2 im parting out. Hes helped me a few times with my s14 for pretty much free and wants to know what he can get the 5 lug conversion, front brakes, vlsd and axles for. Im not sure on pricing for all that so there's my question? haha. I want to give him some sort of deal for helping me out but Im also looking for some coils for my car so...

In good condition, I would throw $400 at him. ($80 each axle, $100 for the VLSD, $100 for front brakes, $250 for conversion = $610 without a multi-item discount most people give)

I'd say a little bit more... vlsd should be worth more than $100. I'd say at least $500 if everything is in really good condition.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Im at the very end of my 5 speed conversion but I cannot get the transmission onto the shaft on the back of the engine. The pilot bearing was replaced and put in all the way and the teeth fit fine through the clutch and bearing. I think something is in the way but Im clueless. I have already removed the clutch/ flywheel 3 times to try different things. Any help/ advice is appreciated.


Edit: The car is a 90. The engine is from a 98 and the transmission is from a 91. From what Ive searched, I should not have any problem with this combination. It appears that the transmission gets caught on the nipple that holds the dust plate on and also that the bolt holes do not line up correctly. I called it quits recently since it was getting dark. Again, any input is appreciated.

The only thing I can think of is that your alignment dowel is bent/damaged/mushroomed. Usually you just have to kind of rock/twist the transmission til everything lines up nice nice. Maybe remove the alignment dowel and just go by the bolts?

[rootS13]

That might be it. I was starting to think that maybe I was sent the wrong clutch or that the clutch wasnt aligned correctly. It sucks that I cant work on it until Saturday. Ill let you know.

[Zenki504]

COILOVER QUESTIONS...... today i installed a set of powerd by max coilovers on my S14 they are very stiff and bounce ALOT!

My questions are...

How many miles will it take for them to settle?

Will the car get lower once they do settle?

Should i adjust them or check the adjustments after a certain amount of miles?

[Wolamute]

hey, (<~~~ uber nub)

i, like most people in the import scene.. dont have a large amount of income.

where should i start? oh and if the moderator reads this, feel free to delete my thread, im sorry for vandalizing.


*edit. by start i mean.. from bone stock to ka-t (t28).

[PapaSmurf2k3]

COILOVER QUESTIONS...... today i installed a set of powerd by max coilovers on my S14 they are very stiff and bounce ALOT!

My questions are...

How many miles will it take for them to settle?

Will the car get lower once they do settle?

Should i adjust them or check the adjustments after a certain amount of miles?

They really shouldn't be bouncy man... are the dampers adjustable? Not much you can do about them being stiff... sounds like you chose the wrong coilover (spring force too high). Them "settling" won't have the big effect you are looking for.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

hey, (<~~~ uber nub)

i, like most people in the import scene.. dont have a large amount of income.

where should i start? oh and if the moderator reads this, feel free to delete my thread, im sorry for vandalizing.


*edit. by start i mean.. from bone stock to ka-t (t28).

I'd start off by doing things that are going to need to do in the future anyway, but will improve the car/reliability right now, such as the clutch.

There IS going to be a point where you'll have to drop some relatively big money and just "take the plunge" if you will. You gotta pay to play.

[speedeast]

COILOVER QUESTIONS...... today i installed a set of powerd by max coilovers on my S14 they are very stiff and bounce ALOT!

My questions are...

How many miles will it take for them to settle?

Will the car get lower once they do settle?

Should i adjust them or check the adjustments after a certain amount of miles?

By "bounce ALOT" do you mean the coilovers, or the car in general? With coilovers it's going to be a very stiff, rough ride. Jst trying to clarify...

[skylet414]

hey question.. so my s13 is making a loud squeaking when i turn, also the steering is gettin stiffer like the powering steering is goin out or something.. but when the car is turnd off theres no squeaking noise. a buddy said it might be the ps belt but i would like to get ur guys input on this. thanks

[Michaelmoore]

hey question.. so my s13 is making a loud squeaking when i turn, also the steering is gettin stiffer like the powering steering is goin out or something.. but when the car is turnd off theres no squeaking noise. a buddy said it might be the ps belt but i would like to get ur guys input on this. thanks

Thats exactly what it is, your belt is worn out and its squealing when theres a load put on it. I'd bet money it will go away with a new belt.

[savageK5]

Hey guys,

New here and to the Nissan world. I picked up a 90 240sx. 800 bucks got me a running car with a circuit sports 3 inch catback. After much body work and subframe repair.. it was time to start having some fun with the motor. Picked up a set of Pacesetter headers the other day. Installed them tonight, removed the PAIR contraption all together, fired the car up and it sounded beautiful. Snappy throttle response. I just let it sit there at idle to bake off the paint on the exhaust. about 10 minutes later i went to open the throttle body manually under the hood and it bogged out and shut off..

Its got spark, fuel and i didnt change the timing at all. I tried plugging the vacuum lines and the selenoid back in for the PAIR, and finally thought, "well.. its getting spark and fuel it should fire.. maybe its getting to much fuel?" Pulled the O2 sensor for haha's. When i transfered the sensor from the old manifold to the header the tip was white.. when i pulled it after installing the headers it was black.

Im replacing the o2 sensor regardless..

Any ideas as to what might have happened? Could it just have been a bad o2 sensor?

[savageK5]

Scratch that figured it out! Oil from the K & N cone coated the mass airflow sensor throwin it off causing it to dump rediculous amounts of fuel into the cyclinders.. win!

[Telusethegoose]

Im at the very end of my 5 speed conversion but I cannot get the transmission onto the shaft on the back of the engine. The pilot bearing was replaced and put in all the way and the teeth fit fine through the clutch and bearing. I think something is in the way but Im clueless. I have already removed the clutch/ flywheel 3 times to try different things. Any help/ advice is appreciated.


Edit: The car is a 90. The engine is from a 98 and the transmission is from a 91. From what Ive searched, I should not have any problem with this combination. It appears that the transmission gets caught on the nipple that holds the dust plate on and also that the bolt holes do not line up correctly. I called it quits recently since it was getting dark. Again, any input is appreciated.

Im not sure if its the same as 90s but I just replaced the clutch in my 95 while it was on jackstands and putting the trans back in was a pain. we had to rotate the transmission until the bell housing for the starter was facing towards the ground otherwise the spline wouldnt slip in correctly due to the bell housing hitting the firewall. after we got the spline in, we put the lower starter bolt into the transmission hole and rotated the whole thing into place. On 95s if you dont put the bolt in before you get everything else bolted up you wont be able to put it in due top the firewall (again).

hope that helps you out a bit? the firewalls might be different in 90s vs 95s though so you might not have any of those problems.

[240coop]

Hello! First off let me tell you what I have. I have a 91 coupe with an SR. ok so it is on stock suspension but I want to lower it with just coils right now. (don't have the money for a nice set of suspension right now) I want to know if the SR is really 300 pounds lighter to the KA and if it is...then how will that affect the ride height? I want to drop it an inch and a half. but don't want it to just end up being an inch in the front or something. I need some advice. thank you.

[New2Nico]

I know this is the infamous problem with s13's... But I figure id post my own problem... and see if anybody has an idea of what the problem is. I have quite a nice sr20det with a gt2871r turbo... etc etc...

Anyways I picked up a car to do the swap in. its a 1990 hatch. Second day of driving it, and I start the car up, its dark outside, I flip on my headlights, and only the left headlight goes up, and turns on... the right headlight wont go up, and the light itself isn't on either... then when i turned my headlights off... the light turned off... but the left one stay up. So basically LEFT UP, RIGHT DOWN...
looks completely ridiculous, so hoping I could get it dealt with..!

Thanks
new

[five1oh]

I have a stock '91 240sx Hatchback with 130k miles on it, and I have a problem I could use help with. It started with some idling problems...at first, a few months ago it would just stall from a cold start without gassing it for maybe 10 seconds. It normally idles at around 1k, now it's about 400-500 and the engine gets shakey, and the acceleration is a little sluggish. I checked and all spark plugs are firing. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

[New2Nico]

I know this is the infamous problem with s13's... But I figure id post my own problem... and see if anybody has an idea of what the problem is. I have quite a nice sr20det with a gt2871r turbo... etc etc...

Anyways I picked up a car to do the swap in. its a 1990 hatch. Second day of driving it, and I start the car up, its dark outside, I flip on my headlights, and only the left headlight goes up, and turns on... the right headlight wont go up, and the light itself isn't on either... then when i turned my headlights off... the light turned off... but the left one stay up. So basically LEFT UP, RIGHT DOWN...
looks completely ridiculous, so hoping I could get it dealt with..!

Thanks
new

NVM TO THIS!! The headlight pin just popped out... discovered it when I manual cranked them.. Thanks anyways folks!
cheers

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I have a stock '91 240sx Hatchback with 130k miles on it, and I have a problem I could use help with. It started with some idling problems...at first, a few months ago it would just stall from a cold start without gassing it for maybe 10 seconds. It normally idles at around 1k, now it's about 400-500 and the engine gets shakey, and the acceleration is a little sluggish. I checked and all spark plugs are firing. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Does it run fine when its warmed up? You might have to clean your idle air control valve.

[five1oh]

I have a stock '91 240sx Hatchback with 130k miles on it, and I have a problem I could use help with. It started with some idling problems...at first, a few months ago it would just stall from a cold start without gassing it for maybe 10 seconds. It normally idles at around 1k, now it's about 400-500 and the engine gets shakey, and the acceleration is a little sluggish. I checked and all spark plugs are firing. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Does it run fine when its warmed up? You might have to clean your idle air control valve.

It runs the same warmed up, except for it doesn't stall when it's warmed up...the rpms are still relatively low and the car is still shakey and weak acceleration. Someone else also told me it could be the IACV, and said I might have to clean/check the fuel injectors and fuel filter, or running it with the TPS or MAF disconnected or something like that.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah... if the car has weak acceleration, chances are its something more than just an idle air control valve... seeing as how that's only really operating at idle. Maybe check to see if any of your engine grounds are corroded. Have you checked timing?

[DriftReadyS13]

here is the deal i have an s13.. just put 245/45/17 on the back. car still has 205/40 up front from when i got the car.. what would be a good size to run up front? 215/45 or 225/45?? the car will be gettng lowered 2 in with mr springs.. for now.. i just dont want the offset ot look too big, like it does now.. thanks for the input

[PapaSmurf2k3]

225/45s would probably look pretty good, but keep in mind you're going to have more sidewall in the back because you are running a wider tire, with the same sidewall ratio.

[Rosenrot]

Yeah... if the car has weak acceleration, chances are its something more than just an idle air control valve... seeing as how that's only really operating at idle. Maybe check to see if any of your engine grounds are corroded. Have you checked timing?


I agree with him^^^ I would check engine grounds, definitly check timing. Just an idea; i would also check the fuel system (ie fuel pump, fuel pump grounds, and fuel filter) i had a truck that did that once and it turned out that the fuel filter was clogged with all kinds of nasty crap (it was an 88 Toyota POS that had definitly seen better days). Moral of the story; dont buy a Toyota

[Rosenrot]

Yeah... if the car has weak acceleration, chances are its something more than just an idle air control valve... seeing as how that's only really operating at idle. Maybe check to see if any of your engine grounds are corroded. Have you checked timing?


I agree with him^^^ I would check engine grounds, definitly check timing. Just an idea; i would also check the fuel system (ie fuel pump, fuel pump grounds, and fuel filter) i had a truck that did that once and it turned out that the fuel filter was clogged with all kinds of nasty crap (it was an 88 Toyota POS that had definitly seen better days). Moral of the story; dont buy a Toyota

[KYZAAC]

i just got my valve cover back from being powdercoated, before i sent it there was a blob of rtv on the inside of the valve cover, buddy ripped it off before he baked it. im not really sure what it was there for to begin with. should i re apply or just leave it? heres a pic of it removed

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Does it go all the way through the valve cover?

[KYZAAC]

No it doesnt go right threw to the other side, but theres a hole cut under the clip, its like a piece of sheet metal that has the hole and a 2" gap from the sheet metal to the top of the valve cover.

EDIT: does anyone know what valve cover gasket will fit the sr20det? the gasket i got in my kit only has 3 halfmoons instead of 4. it doesnt say in the parts guide.
thanks

[Hijacker]

The gasket you have is probably for an S14. You need an S13 valve cover gasket. Most shops like Courtesy Parts or West Covina Nissan have that gasket. And the valve cover gasket is a JDM only part. There are no USDM crossover parts that can be used.

As for the blob of RTV, IIRC it was supposed to hold in a dripper for the baffle. I generally smack the hands of people away from my parts so they don't rip random stuff off.

[KYZAAC]

i never had a chance, i shipped it away and it was shipped back like that. should i slap another blob of black rtv?