I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[OutToWinPAHC]

hi i was wonderin if anyone can help me, i have a 98 240sx and i am in desprate need of a gas tank for it. it is my daily driver and i have not been able to drive it 2 mths and its beging to be a prob....i have looked every where but have had no luck...PLZZZ HELP!

Part out thread, or call a used car parts place

[tmwnn]

i have a few questions
- i bought the energy suspension master bushing kit, since then i was talking to someone that said he wouldn't install poly bushings anywhere on the car as they tend to bind up. is that true?

-are the subframe inserts from the ES kit any good compared to the full bushings or the solid aluminum bushings? i really dont want to spend more money on bushings, but if the inserts are no good i'd rather just get the right ones now.

Yes, poly bushings can bind.

However, most people agree they are an awesome upgrade for our cars, seeing how 20 year old rubber bushings are absolute garbage, and I've never really read about horror stories from them binding...

The ES kit should come with enough lube for the job. You can also get the lube separate. If you do install, make sure you lube the hell out of every poly bushing. If you feel they bind in the future, then just remove them (the easy ones, like sway bar) and lube them more.

However, if you ever plan on running coilovers then place the bushings on hold, since you are gonna have to install adjustable suspension arms to keep a decent alignment. You'll find that a lot of the most difficult to install bushings (like tension rods and rear arms) are no longer needed since they are replaced by the heim joints of the new arms, so you wont use even half of the ES kit. You can buy the sway bar, subframe, steering rack, and front control arms bushings for a decent price separately if you shop around and that way you wont end up with a bunch of unused ones.


As for the subframe inserts, they are different from solid aluminum collars. They are just some poly inserts which go in around your stock ones. I have them on my car, very easy to install. Maybe made a slight difference. But if you want to do it right, then either: Get solid inserts (not collars), or get PBM subframe risers (if you wanna drop your car a lot while keeping a somewhat decent suspension geometry.) Both of these products require dropping your subframe and completely replace your stock ones. Be aware that ride and noise will be harsher since they are solid.

Another, less frequently seen option is getting Nismo subframe bushings. They are expensive and hard to find and require dropping the subframe as well, but are supposed to be less harsh than solid aluminum ones.

[charat]

do i need to pull the engine out if im just rebuilding the head?

[OutToWinPAHC]

We'll why are you rebuilding the head? Is it Ultra warped? Normally no, just check the decking to make sure its straight.

[hatedinthemind]

Im doing a rear 5 lug conversion on my s13. If i use s14 rear rotors, can I use my s13 calipers?

I think there the same

[OutToWinPAHC]

Yes as long as you match Abs to abs and non to non

[hatedinthemind]

sweet thanks

[Skyline_BNR34]

Where do the heater hoses connect to the motor on the SOHC KA? The previous owner took out the under hood AC system and took off the heater hoses also, and at quick glance me and my dad couldn't find where they connect to the engine, and searchs of google haven't helped me one bit.

Also, since the AC system is out under the hood, the parts I would need include these, AC Compressor, AC Condenser, AC Lines, and AC Drier? And all belts and O rings?

[SpeedshifterNC]

I just traded my 96 Z28 for a 93 240 turbo. I'd like to reinstall the ac so I need the same parts as Skyline_BNR34. First time with a 240 so any help locating these parts is appreciated.

[Yasko]

I have a S14 ka24de and I have some timing chain rattle. I removed the top guide but I'm still getting rattle. My question is, if I leave it, is this something that could damage my motor? or is the only negative effect going to be a rattle?

[venom90s]

would there be any problems if i ran my car without a thermostat for summer?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've heard stories both ways, but the Engineer in me says no, you'll be fine... The main argument is that coolant would flow too quickly through your radiator and not cool down enough, but I don't so much buy into that (as the temp of the coolant increases, so does the efficiency of your radiator through a greater difference in temperature).

Besides, if that happens, just throw a thermostat back in. Good luck!

[venom90s]

I've heard stories both ways, but the Engineer in me says no, you'll be fine... The main argument is that coolant would flow too quickly through your radiator and not cool down enough, but I don't so much buy into that (as the temp of the coolant increases, so does the efficiency of your radiator through a greater difference in temperature).

Besides, if that happens, just throw a thermostat back in. Good luck!

oh ok i see what your saying thanks for the help

[venom90s]

would i need a ballast resistor if i were to install a msd 6al and a blaster coil?

[Crazyirish]

See if this thread helps
how-to-plug-and-play-msd-6a-6al-t317445.html

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've never heard of one being used, but you might be able to find the answer through a NICO search, although I'm not too sure how many people run MSD 6als and blaster coils here...

[Skyline_BNR34]

I've heard stories both ways, but the Engineer in me says no, you'll be fine... The main argument is that coolant would flow too quickly through your radiator and not cool down enough, but I don't so much buy into that (as the temp of the coolant increases, so does the efficiency of your radiator through a greater difference in temperature).

Besides, if that happens, just throw a thermostat back in. Good luck!

Not to say you're wrong, but during the summer your thermostat will most likely never close like in the winter. Remember most thermostats open around 170 degrees, and on a nice hot day of 80+ your engine will probably never cool down to below that temperature to allow the thermostat to close again.

In the winter though, if you don't run a thermostat you have the risk of the motor not heating up enough to sustain any heat, especially for the heater core and engine causing it to be hypercooled.

But I see what you could also mean with the thermostat making the coolant flow less since it is essentially a bit of a roadblock for the coolant to slow a bit, but I don't see how that has any effect on how the radiator works either.

Basically what I'm saying is, it shouldn't have any effect at all until the winter time, you engine shouldn't get any hotter and theoretically any cooler either, because all the thermostats do is open at a certain temperature.

[venom90s]

See if this thread helps
how-to-plug-and-play-msd-6a-6al-t317445.html

i read that thread before but it didn't say if he used a ballast resistor but your help is greatly appriciated

I've never heard of one being used, but you might be able to find the answer through a NICO search, although I'm not too sure how many people run MSD 6als and blaster coils here...

i did do my search on nico and google but i didn't find anybody using a ballast resistor but i looked again at the installation instruction from msd and it turns out its not needed now i feel stupid cuz it was right in front of me all this time . there's probably very few using a msd setup, practically all the threads i found were two years old or older. thanks for the help anyways

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Not to say you're wrong, but during the summer your thermostat will most likely never close like in the winter. Remember most thermostats open around 170 degrees, and on a nice hot day of 80+ your engine will probably never cool down to below that temperature to allow the thermostat to close again.

In the winter though, if you don't run a thermostat you have the risk of the motor not heating up enough to sustain any heat, especially for the heater core and engine causing it to be hypercooled.

But I see what you could also mean with the thermostat making the coolant flow less since it is essentially a bit of a roadblock for the coolant to slow a bit, but I don't see how that has any effect on how the radiator works either.

Basically what I'm saying is, it shouldn't have any effect at all until the winter time, you engine shouldn't get any hotter and theoretically any cooler either, because all the thermostats do is open at a certain temperature.

Um, the thermostat DEFINITELY closes in the summer. Even if its 100 degrees out, the engine will get below 170, given enough time (with the engine off). Now, if you're talking about with the engine on, then yeah, it will drop below that as well. The thermostat's job is to open enough to regulate the incoming temperature to whatever the thermostat is set to.
If you ran no thermostat whatsoever, the temperature of the coolant of your engine becomes a function of the ambient temp, your cooling system's efficiency and ability to cool the fluid, and the amount of heat that the engine produces. Most vehicles have reserve cooling capacity, so you can floor-board it all day long in the summer without the risk of overheating.

Example 1: You have a 190 degree thermostat. You come out in the morning and start your car. Its 80 degrees outside and you haven't driven your car since the night before. Your engine is at ~81 degrees. Your thermostat is closed. You drive around, and the temperature of your engine steadily rises til it hits 190 degrees, lets say it takes 4 minutes @ 40 mph. Your thermostat opens and you start circulating coolant through the radiator. It passes through the cooling system and re-enters the engine via the lower radiator hose @ 85 degrees. The engine re-warms it back up to 190 degrees, and the cycle continues.

Example 2: You have NO thermostat. You come out in the morning to the same 80 degree ambient temp, and your engine is again at ~81. You start the car and start driving. Coolant is IMMEDIATELY circulating through the cooling system. For a while the output coolant stays down in the 82-90 degree range, until the block and head and exhaust heats up, then it gets a little hotter, lets say 110 degrees going into the radiator. The radiator is still cooling it down to 85 degrees, and the constant flow of cold coolant is preventing the engine from really getting hot. You start racing the s*** out of the engine (producing MORE heat). The coolant coming out of the engine going into the radiator is now 140 degrees, dropping back down to ~85 after it passes through the radiator, and the cycle continues. Now add a turbo to the equation. You run 20 lbs of boost. You race the crap out of the car again. Same ambient conditions. The engine is now producing WAY more heat than it was when it was NA. The temp of the coolant is now 200 coming out of the engine, and going into the radiator. The thermostat is wide open to try and cool the engine (or there is no thermostat what so ever), but the radiator can't quite keep up like it could before... so the temperature of the coolant going into the engine is now 110 degrees. The engine then heats it up even more, and its now coming out of the block at 210. The greater difference in temperature between 210 and 80 degrees of ambient air (as opposed to 190 and 80) facilitates faster (more) cooling of the fluid, but not to the point that it can get back down to the ~85 it was at before.

Bah, I'd have to draw some pictures or something to really get this across, but do you sort of get it now?

[Skyline_BNR34]

I get it but I don't really agree with it. I just would assume, I know it's bad to do, the engine wouldn't really get super cool or really hot without it.

But what we really would need to do is find out the output temperature of the coolant in the engine and how fast a radiator cools the coolant before it passes out of the other side to really determine what would happen.

If we get that formula we could figure out both of them, but why make more work, right?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah its based on a lot of things, but what exactly is your argument? That a car running no thermostat in the summer will operate at the same temp as a car that is running one?

[Skyline_BNR34]

During the summer yea, maybe a bit cooler, but nothing to ruin anything in the engine, or to cause any problems.

In the winter I know it would run so much cooler. My thermostat was bad in my Golf during the winter and my god, did that engine never heat up once until I replaced it.

[venom90s]

what material is the stock header and exhaust piping made of? can the exhaust piping flanges be reused to be welded on with new piping?

[Gefhar]

I just blow my engine and I want to get new forged pistons and everything, so can you tell me where I can buy them, good quality and good price? Thanks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

what material is the stock header and exhaust piping made of? can the exhaust piping flanges be reused to be welded on with new piping?

The stock KA24DE manifold is cast iron, and the piping is aluminized steel I believe... although it could be some sort of stainless alloy as well. If the flanges are in good condition, I don't see why they can't be cut and re-welded...

I just blow my engine and I want to get new forged pistons and everything, so can you tell me where I can buy them, good quality and good price? Thanks.

Make sure your block/head aren't seriously messed up, but there is a "marketplace" link at the top of the page (right under the NICO banner). Those are our sponsors. There is also an "advertiser's marketplace" forum. Most sponsors run a NICO discount.

[venom90s]

ok thanks. if i wanted to re use the header flanges would i need to use cast iron for the header piping or can i choose another alloy? is the exhaust piping flanges made of the same material as the piping?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Cast Iron is pretty hard stuff man. Are you trying to make your own headers or something? Making the flanges would be the easy part...
Exhaust piping flanges should be just regular steel I think.

[venom90s]

yea i was considering it. i was thinking of just re using the stock header flanges.

[Skyline_BNR34]

yea i was considering it. i was thinking of just re using the stock header flanges.

I would say if you reuse the stock flanges any pipe that you can weld to it that is lightweight could work, but make sure you know which pipes could be welded to it or not, since some steel/alloys have different melting temperatures.

I'm pretty sure you can buy exhaust flange kits or something and the piping also.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If you want totally new, awesome, badass flanges, get a gasket, give it to a friend that has some sort of CAD software, and get him to mimic it into a drawing (give it about 3/8" thickness or so), and send it to www.waterjetcutting.com. Have them water jet it out, or laser cut it... BAM, a whole new set of flanges in whatever material that you want (which should be Steel).
These guys could also be used for any custom brackets you might want. Turbos, superchargers, etc.