

Thank you! I'm like beyond beginner, is that a problem? I can't seem to find the event thread for the one you are talking about. Those guys all seem really experienced.troskinatior wrote:YEP! Well its not a school but there teach you how to drift and everyone helps you out. Its clubloose in englishtown nj. The next event is in 32 days. heres the link-http://www.clubloose.com/clubloose/phpbb/index.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSiPNXTgK0U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhdKZCLM_t8
There was also a event on friday in ny. It on the clubloose event subfourm
Dude happened at 75, and wont compress, scary. Did you try another caliper, if not try depressing the piston and see what happens, it it depressed then just replace the failed caliper.troskinatior wrote:okays. I was driving down 195 at around 75mph today around 8am to go to drift camp and all of a sudden it sounded like a huge tractor trailer tuck was passing, the steering wheel saw shaking, then it started to veer to the right so i pulled over and saw the right front brake was smoking. When we got home i pulled of the cailiper and every thing looked ok except the metal bracket peace between the pision and the pad was missing. Now Im trying to put the caliper back on and I can't compress the pistion enough to get the pads over the rotor. So how do you compress it? I know it isnt seized because I hit the brakes when the cailiper was off and it was moving. I tryed to compress it with a pipe wrench with the brake booster cap off but I barely did anything. Are you suspose to compress it with the bleeder valve off? If you do, do you need to bleed the hole system? And does any one know how it can just stick out of nowhere?
And can someone please help me, the last couple of times I posted on this thread I got ignored.
Tried A hammer... didn't work. I used A pipe wrench... Didn't work. I bought A C-clamp... I bent the s*** out of it.OutToWinPAHC wrote:Dude happened at 75, and wont compress, scary. Did you try another caliper, if not try depressing the piston and see what happens, it it depressed then just replace the failed caliper.troskinatior wrote:okays. I was driving down 195 at around 75mph today around 8am to go to drift camp and all of a sudden it sounded like a huge tractor trailer tuck was passing, the steering wheel saw shaking, then it started to veer to the right so i pulled over and saw the right front brake was smoking. When we got home i pulled of the cailiper and every thing looked ok except the metal bracket peace between the pision and the pad was missing. Now Im trying to put the caliper back on and I can't compress the pistion enough to get the pads over the rotor. So how do you compress it? I know it isnt seized because I hit the brakes when the cailiper was off and it was moving. I tryed to compress it with a pipe wrench with the brake booster cap off but I barely did anything. Are you suspose to compress it with the bleeder valve off? If you do, do you need to bleed the hole system? And does any one know how it can just stick out of nowhere?
And can someone please help me, the last couple of times I posted on this thread I got ignored.
http://www.clubloose.com/clubloose/phpb ... php?t=3711 Heres the event that was on friday, I didn't go but looks like alot of fun. And the closest event at englishtown is on may 26, Thats for mostly beginners because its in a parking lot but when you become good enough you get bumped up into B-class and can drive on the road course. You can drive on the road course when your in C-class (the lowest you can go) but you can only drive in the back course. The best drifting event on the east coast and POSSIBLY the usa is on may 29 and 30, theres going to be pros there 100+ drivers and a bar at the track. I'm also a beginner and may 26 will be my first event!!!Dire91 wrote:Thank you! I'm like beyond beginner, is that a problem? I can't seem to find the event thread for the one you are talking about. Those guys all seem really experienced.troskinatior wrote:YEP! Well its not a school but there teach you how to drift and everyone helps you out. Its clubloose in englishtown nj. The next event is in 32 days. heres the link-http://www.clubloose.com/clubloose/phpbb/index.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSiPNXTgK0U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhdKZCLM_t8
There was also a event on friday in ny. It on the clubloose event subfourm
Yea its gonna be awsume!!!Dire91 wrote:^ Alright thanks a lot man. Good luck, maybe I'll see you there if I get my car setup properly.
You are NOT supposed to open the bleeder valve. The fluid is supposed to compress enough to allow it to go back in. I think that caliper has had it and I would get another one. I have calipers I took off of my 1990 240sx HB if you want one.troskinatior wrote:Tried A hammer... didn't work. I used A pipe wrench... Didn't work. I bought A C-clamp... I bent the s*** out of it.
When the car was in the air I pumped the brakes and my brother said the pistion was moving back and forth, so I don't think its seized. When you try to compress it do you just push it in? Or do you need to open the bleeder valve?
Why not just remove the nut from the factory manifold and see if it fits in the header? Use some heat and some elbow grease to get it out. Or just try and see if the new EGR tube will fit in it (you are going to need to buy a new EGR tube anway, seeing as how you cut the old one). If it doesn't fit, then you should probably contact the header manufacturer and ask what is going on.ghostboy wrote:I recently removed my stock header and unfortunately had to cut the EGR tube. i live in NY so i cant leave it cut or cap it. i was looking at the stock header and it looks like the screw at the end of the tube is going to be too big to fit in the new headers. am i just paranoid or is it bigger because on my the new set the o2 sensor can fit in(what is supposed to be) the EGR tube bung and regular o2 bung?
Can you take a quick pic or two of the sensor and the hole it's gotta go in?gigabit240 wrote:So I had a quick noob question. I got a 1990 240sx m/t speed sensor for my 1992 m/t 240sx. I tried putting it in but three pieces around the sensor didn't let it slid in. I know that they work exactly the same and the gear ratio isn't any different. So how could I fit it in there? I don't care if i break this sensor because I only got it for 10 dollars. Is it possible I could just grind the prongs off and slide it in there? Or is there something else preventing it? Any help is appreciated! Thanks
Mine went right in with a some force. I used a '90 KA speed sensor on a s13 blacktop SR. You may need to have the transmission in neutral. Not sure if that would affect anything.gigabit240 wrote:So I had a quick noob question. I got a 1990 240sx m/t speed sensor for my 1992 m/t 240sx. I tried putting it in but three pieces around the sensor didn't let it slid in. I know that they work exactly the same and the gear ratio isn't any different. So how could I fit it in there? I don't care if i break this sensor because I only got it for 10 dollars. Is it possible I could just grind the prongs off and slide it in there? Or is there something else preventing it? Any help is appreciated! Thanks
I've never driven a 240sx, is that a noticeable amount of whp when behind the wheel?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:MAYBE 180 at the wheels.
Its noticeable, but you'll get your doors blown off by even the most basic turbo setup.E_Cruz1989 wrote:I've never driven a 240sx, is that a noticeable amount of whp when behind the wheel?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:MAYBE 180 at the wheels.
Should be under www.240sxtech.comkevin26k wrote:im sorry to do this but i need help finding a write up. i cant seem to find it with the search and its not in the stickies, i need the full 5 lug swap and 300zx brake upgrade for a s13 or possible the parts list needed so i can start rounding up the stuff. i know im missing it somewhere, thanks.
d!ck wrote:If you want to get out of the whole ordeal for cheap, what you need to do is drive a ways and find the body parts at a yard or through craigslist cheap.
if you don't want crappy looking headlights that yellow and haze up quickly there are aftermarket options out there for you like final konexxion or JDM glass housing lights. i guarantee this will still be cheaper than piecing a complete kouki front end as you have to deal with:
parts availability is next to none, you think finding zenki stuff is bad...
high demand - everyone wants it, and they are willing to pay. front end swap is expensive, might as well sell the zenki and find a whole kouki rather than just trying to get the front off of one.
if kouki is your thing go for it. be prepared to spend more and wait longer. if its worth it, you will make it happen.
Everybody's clear on which is which, right? As far as original parts, I can find Zenki all day long. To the aftermarket effect, I can find Kouki all day long. Y'all need to pick a new search engine or something.240skitzo wrote:I find your information to be incorrect regarding the availability of kouki parts. I can go to just about any web site and find tons of kouki parts even stock parts. now zenki is a whole different story i cant find zenki parts to save my life.
That was a good idea. I just took a hammer to it and it went right in! thanksPyR0NiAk wrote:Mine went right in with a some force. I used a '90 KA speed sensor on a s13 blacktop SR. You may need to have the transmission in neutral. Not sure if that would affect anything.gigabit240 wrote:So I had a quick noob question. I got a 1990 240sx m/t speed sensor for my 1992 m/t 240sx. I tried putting it in but three pieces around the sensor didn't let it slid in. I know that they work exactly the same and the gear ratio isn't any different. So how could I fit it in there? I don't care if i break this sensor because I only got it for 10 dollars. Is it possible I could just grind the prongs off and slide it in there? Or is there something else preventing it? Any help is appreciated! Thanks
This statement worries me, lol.gigabit240 wrote:I just took a hammer to it and it went right in! thanks