I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[Nytovaok]

thank you. mine's a base model so i guess it's open.

next question, is ther an air/fuel ratio gauge install anywhere on the forum for a single cam? i searched and searched and searched and could not find one. i think what i might actually need though is to find out where the signal wire is for the o2 sensor
Modified by Nytovaok at 12:07 PM 4/13/2010

[PyR0NiAk]

thank you. mine's a base model so i guess it's open.

next question, is ther an air/fuel ratio gauge install anywhere on the forum for a single cam? i searched and searched and searched and could not find one. i think what i might actually need though is to find out where the signal wire is for the o2 sensor

Modified by Nytovaok at 12:07 PM 4/13/2010

My sohc got tossed in the dumpster, so I didn't spend much time on it. Therefore, I can't tell you where the signal wire is. Check an FSM. I can tell you how to install a wideband though. I recommend you order the AEM wideband from Enjuku Racing. It comes with everything you need. Your ignition wire will get wired in with the fuse that is the 4th one up on the left side. (The fuse box on the driver's side behind the kick panel.) Then you can ground it with one of the dead pedal bolts. As far as the sensor itself, the kit comes with a bung you can have welded into your exhaust somewhere. Then the actual sensor screws into that bung just like any other O2 sensor does. Any more questions, feel free to ask. Between myself, papasmurf, outtowinpahc, and speedeast, questions don't tend to stay unanswered too long in this thread.
Modified by PyR0NiAk at 10:01 PM 4/13/2010

[TroubleBound]

I feel stupid asking this but i can't some up with anything by searching except for the cam timing, i am wondering how i adjust ignition timing on my SR? I mean...it doesn't have a distributor...right? Sorry...

[PyR0NiAk]

Crank at the 2nd notch from the left. Cam keys at 10 on intake side, 12 on the exhaust side. Then take the cam angle sensor out and you'll see 2 notches. line it up where the left notch matches the dot, then when you insert it, it'll rotate where the other notch matches the dot. It should be centered.

If I confused you or you want more clarification, here's a good guide.

http://www.frsport.com/How-To-....html

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Between myself, outtowinpahc, and speedeast,

I feel stupid asking this but i can't some up with anything by searching except for the cam timing, i am wondering how i adjust ignition timing on my SR? I mean...it doesn't have a distributor...right? Sorry...

I'm no SR expert, but I was pretty sure that SRs had coil pack style ignition systems, meaning the ignition timing is completely controlled by the ECU. There is no mechanical distributor to turn in order to change your ignition timing.

[PyR0NiAk]

Between myself, papasmurf, outtowinpahc, and speedeast, questions don't tend to stay unanswered too long in this thread.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

[cmilla]

oil filter question. i have a s15 sr20 i went to my local nissan dealership and got oil filter part number 15208-53j00. it is to small to even thread on. what part number do i need? i found 15208-65f00 and was going to try that next. any help would be appericated thanks!

[PyR0NiAk]

Go to the SR forum. There's a parts guide that is stickied. Go to page 7.

[cmilla]

thanks checked it says i have the right part number its making no sense. o well

[TRobJunior]

I just got done with my 1st swap & my car runs like crap, I cant go above 4k rpm, I searched & everything I get says check for leaks, I did have an exhaust leak that I fixed but the car still runs the same..... 1 thing I did notice is that when I unplug the maf sensor the car ran close to perfect.

When I made this following video this is the 1st time the car deid when I plugged the maf back in.

http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r164 ... V05509.flv

[NYIntensity]

No swap, starting problems here on a KA24E (Zenki). The fuel pump's working, plugs check out fine, starter goes and goes. She just won't start. Sometimes the CEL will come on, giving me code 13 (CTS). I've been doing a LOT of reading about my symptoms though (after running between 2-3k RPMs and then pressing the clutch, it'll drop to ~600 RPMs and seem to stutter a lil; sometimes if it's having trouble idling and I stab the gas it'll bog down but then rocket back up), and I think it may be an ignition coil issue. I just want to get advice from people who have my car and have worked on it a lot; I'm not trying to replace "everything but the block" to figure out this issue. I have, however, replaced the plugs, wires, disty, and rotor. Suggestions?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

No swap, starting problems here on a KA24E (Zenki). The fuel pump's working, plugs check out fine, starter goes and goes. She just won't start. Sometimes the CEL will come on, giving me code 13 (CTS). I've been doing a LOT of reading about my symptoms though (after running between 2-3k RPMs and then pressing the clutch, it'll drop to ~600 RPMs and seem to stutter a lil; sometimes if it's having trouble idling and I stab the gas it'll bog down but then rocket back up), and I think it may be an ignition coil issue. I just want to get advice from people who have my car and have worked on it a lot; I'm not trying to replace "everything but the block" to figure out this issue. I have, however, replaced the plugs, wires, disty, and rotor. Suggestions?

CTS meaning Coolant temp sensor?

Does the car kinda smell like fuel when you are cranking it? Your coolant tempt sensor might be telling the car that its -40 degrees out, and to dump fuel in like nobody's business. Also make sure to smell your oil. If it smells like its got gasoline in it, replace it.

[motorsndesigns1307]

quick question...just wanted to know if any1 knew about or near the price to engine swap a 96' 240sx with the rb26dett? i think its the 96' model that can be swapped not sure.

uhm okay so the first person that answered you kinda overpriced you....
i have a 95 and am doing a rb25 swap and paid 2700 for my motorset...and they started up the engine for me to make sure it ran like it should....

so if you end up paying close to 10grand you should be getting it dropped in also..otherwise your getting ripped off
and yes you can swap an rb26 into a 96


the guy i bought my engine from though said that japan is trying to put a stop to skyline parts being imported into the us specially since taxes are going up on anything imported...but you should still be able to get one for under 5000

[NYIntensity]

Yes, CTS meaning coolant temp sensor. I replaced it (it had smelled like fuel) and the code 13 went away until I stepped on the gas. The CEL would come on, but only while pressing the throttle. I had a friend give it a little gas while I checked the ECU, and got code 13 again, so I went ahead and replaced the ignition coil, too. So far, I haven't had any problems at all. I guess the IC was just on its way out; that would give SOME explanation to the poor idle. FWIW, I did use a multimeter on the old CTS; it had WAY too much resistance when hot (over 2 k ohms). The harness checked out fine. Just wanted to give an update/close out my problem. Thanks for the help!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Thanks for posting up the follow-through!

[PyR0NiAk]

quick question...just wanted to know if any1 knew about or near the price to engine swap a 96' 240sx with the rb26dett? i think its the 96' model that can be swapped not sure.

uhm okay so the first person that answered you kinda overpriced you....
i have a 95 and am doing a rb25 swap and paid 2700 for my motorset...and they started up the engine for me to make sure it ran like it should....

so if you end up paying close to 10grand you should be getting it dropped in also..otherwise your getting ripped off
and yes you can swap an rb26 into a 96


the guy i bought my engine from though said that japan is trying to put a stop to skyline parts being imported into the us specially since taxes are going up on anything imported...but you should still be able to get one for under 5000

Yes, an RB26 swap will cost you nearly 10,000 if done with name-brand parts. Think of cost of specialty tools that are needed. Maybe having to rent a hoist. The price of a front mount, a good BOV, water pump, thermostat, having the wiring harness chopped and spliced for you, new plugs, a couple of gaskets, fluids, motor mounts, a driveshaft, a clutch, and other things make swaps cost a LOT. I only gave 2k for my SR20, but I guarantee by the time it was all done and over paying for the space rental at the hobby shop, along with the other things I mentioned, I most likely spent over 4k.

As far as the part where you said "I think it's a 96 model that can be swapped." I'm going to say this with as much respect as I possibly can. Try to avoid answering questions in this thread until you have done some more research. 95-98 have no actual chassis differences. Only differences are 96-98 are OBDII. Therefore, dropping an RB26 in a 96 would be no different than dropping it in a 98.

[odmoht]

Would anyone happen to know the color code for the Work VS-XX extreme gold?
need to repaint my wheels, want to do the original XG, but can't really find anywhere.
any help is appreciated!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

^ That is a pretty involved question. You might want to post that as a separate thread, as well as with a picture or 2.

[speedeast]

Would anyone happen to know the color code for the Work VS-XX extreme gold?
need to repaint my wheels, want to do the original XG, but can't really find anywhere.
any help is appreciated!

Work wheels refers to it as simply "XG" but they don't offer a paint. You would have to take it somewhere and have it matched to get it perfect. Good luck.

[speedeast]

^Same question: This is the closest match DIY paint I've found:

http://www.importimageracing.com/mm5/me ... re_Code=ii

[odmoht]

hm...thing is the wheels already stripped of the paint and I can't really take it anywhere lol
I'll keep on looking and probably start a thread later.
Thanks for the suggestions !

[OutToWinPAHC]

Now are you trying to make non works look like works? Because aren't works powercoated? Did you try LPC

[odmoht]

oh, forgot to put that i actually have the vs-xx's =p
they were originally XG, but paint was really bad and chipping.
i want to get as close as possible to XG as i can.
i don't know about the powercoating.
whats LPC?

[phobs]

Anyone know if the Z32 rear lower control arms are the same as S13's besides the ball joint?

EDIT: Yes it is, found the answer.

[Bueno]

I have a 89' hatch with a DE swap that needs to be rebuilt. There are so many rebuild kits out there I was wondering what you guys thought would be the best one. Also my goal HP for this build is 250, how hard would this be to attain with out a turbo?

[speedeast]

I have a 89' hatch with a DE swap that needs to be rebuilt. There are so many rebuild kits out there I was wondering what you guys thought would be the best one. Also my goal HP for this build is 250, how hard would this be to attain with out a turbo?

You're best off piecing your own rebuild kit together if you want quality. As far as 250hp... that's very attainable. Why not turbo though? If it's because of the monetary factor, then you're not going to be getting 250hp NA real cheap. What kind of budget are you working on? There is a decent rebuild kit on ebay by user "domesticgaskets" that has EVERYTHING for the motor: all bearings, all seals, new pistons and rings, oil pump, water pump, the works for real real cheap. They have a lot of good feedback; although, I have no experience with their brands (primarily NPW I think). It's less that $400 for all of that shipped. But like I said, if you want 250hp NA, don't cut corners, buy the good s*** and let us know what your budget is and we'll clue you in.

[Bueno]

My budget is 3000 dolars solid. I pretty sure I'm not gonna be getting 250 on that budget. My cousin has been working in a machine shop for atleast 10 years now so any machine work will be free. The reason for NA build I have no exeperiance with turbo motors. I might consider it in the future though. But right I'm not looking for big power, just to get this motor running right and to make a good step to big power. As far as the $400 eBay kits...well they just won't cut it .

[PapaSmurf2k3]

250 from an NA KA is going to be kinda difficult. We've had a quite a few people try on here, but I don't remember anyone getting above 210, and it took a LOT of money. The best way to get that much hp from that engine would be to rev the piss out of it, in which case the KA is already working against you, being oversquare.

So yeah, really high compression, bore it out as much as you can, get a nasty set of cams, get the head to flow as much as possible, and build it all for high revs.

[NYIntensity]

My budget is 3000 dolars solid. I pretty sure I'm not gonna be getting 250 on that budget. My cousin has been working in a machine shop for atleast 10 years now so any machine work will be free. The reason for NA build I have no exeperiance with turbo motors. I might consider it in the future though. But right I'm not looking for big power, just to get this motor running right and to make a good step to big power. As far as the $400 eBay kits...well they just won't cut it .

For 3k you could turbo it and learn somethin....just sayin