I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[azsr20det]

hello there i just picked up a 91 180sx with a sr20det. (redtop, just put in, then the car was traded in, and discovered by me)

now heres my noob questions.

1.im not too familiar with turboed cars. more specifically what should my gauges be reading i wish there was a facepalm icon for this but yea.. (whats a safe psi, airfuel ratio, water temp)

2. what kind of oil / gas am i suppost to put into this?

3. what all should i check up on before smashin around in this thing?

4. most everything mechanically has been replaced. how do i tell if the diff is welded or lsd or stock?

5. what do i need to fix the power stuff (windows + locks)

6.may be a rediclous question but is there any easy way to put coupe tails on a hatch? :oops:

7. where can i get a new dash?

im sure ill have more as time goes by
please go easy haha

[PyR0NiAk]

hello there i just picked up a 91 180sx with a sr20det. (redtop, just put in, then the car was traded in, and discovered by me)

now heres my noob questions.

1.im not too familiar with turboed cars. more specifically what should my gauges be reading i wish there was a facepalm icon for this but yea.. (whats a safe psi, airfuel ratio, water temp)

2. what kind of oil / gas am i suppost to put into this?

3. what all should i check up on before smashin around in this thing?

4. most everything mechanically has been replaced. how do i tell if the diff is welded or lsd or stock?

5. what do i need to fix the power stuff (windows + locks)

6.may be a rediclous question but is there any easy way to put coupe tails on a hatch? :oops:

7. where can i get a new dash?

im sure ill have more as time goes by
please go easy haha

1) Your AFRs should start at like 14-15 during cruising, then move toward 12-11.5 as you hit the throttle harder. Water temps should be below 180. Do you know if the turbo is stock? I'd keep boost below 12 psi until I was sure of what all was done to the car.

2) I recommend Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10w30 for your engine oil. Gas, you should use at least 91 octane. (Most places only sell 87, 89, and 93 so this is going to leave you with 93.)

3) Just drive it. Check for leaks. Does it idle well? Any noise from the engine? Do the wires look like they were just put together with some crimp connectors or did someone take time to solder it and heat shrink/tape it?

4) If it's welded, you'll know it. Everytime you take a slow turn, you'll hear your inside rear tire chirping. SOME of the SE models had an LSD as an option, and all of the HICAS (all wheel steer) models had an LSD. I don't recommend you test your LSD right now, but the best way would be to do a burnout. Wait a couple of months before you go really slamming your throttle. At least put 500 miles or so on it.

5) I have no idea why those wouldn't be working. Doing the swap shouldn't interfere with them.

6) This is a bad idea. There's no way it would be easy, and besides, it would most likely look like crap.

7) Check our classifieds forum. There's an interior section. Expect to pay good money for a non-cracked black one though.

P.S. Your 240sx hatch is NOT a 180sx...

[FU-Kitty]

I just bought a 95 S14 SE, I haven't done much research prior to buying this car except for the past two nights without much luck. It's very clean with maintenance records since new. It has 186K but doesn't look like it or run like it.
The only thing that bothers me is a rumble in the rear of the car. I'm suspecting tires but they have about half thread left but had some edge wear. The car has been sitting since Dec. so maybe flat spots have set it. I drove it maybe 20 miles and still could hear it.
It's stock and new shocks were installed recently.

So, I figure I'll get them balanced and maybe that will help?
I don't care much for the 5 lug stock wheels and thought 350Z wheels would be cool BUT I'm not sure what would fit or what size tire to use with them.
I intend to keep it stock except for the wheels.
Any help on the best size stock tire size and anything about 350Z wheels would make my day. Thanks

[93sxboy]

ok guys i am lookn at buying a 93 240sx se model and its all stok except it has ksport coilovers and a cold air intake thats all i was wondering what i should look for that are bad things it had the ka24de and its a 5 speed thank you any help is good

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I just bought a 95 S14 SE, I haven't done much research prior to buying this car except for the past two nights without much luck. It's very clean with maintenance records since new. It has 186K but doesn't look like it or run like it.
The only thing that bothers me is a rumble in the rear of the car. I'm suspecting tires but they have about half thread left but had some edge wear. The car has been sitting since Dec. so maybe flat spots have set it. I drove it maybe 20 miles and still could hear it.
It's stock and new shocks were installed recently.

So, I figure I'll get them balanced and maybe that will help?
I don't care much for the 5 lug stock wheels and thought 350Z wheels would be cool BUT I'm not sure what would fit or what size tire to use with them.
I intend to keep it stock except for the wheels.
Any help on the best size stock tire size and anything about 350Z wheels would make my day. Thanks

You should also check to see if its a wheel bearing.
350z wheels should bolt right on, with no problems.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

ok guys i am lookn at buying a 93 240sx se model and its all stok except it has ksport coilovers and a cold air intake thats all i was wondering what i should look for that are bad things it had the ka24de and its a 5 speed thank you any help is good

Check for rust around the strut towers, in the wheel wells, and on the rocker panels. You also might want to do a compression check.

[FU-Kitty]

You should also check to see if its a wheel bearing.
350z wheels should bolt right on, with no problems.

Thank you, I'll do a good overall check of everything sometime this week and the wheel bearing tip is a good one.
I went to 350Z-Tech looking for the wheels but didn't see the ones I have lined up, I trying to get more info on the size and style. I want to keep the same size tire front and back. Again, any help would be super.

[93sxboy]

well im just meetin the guy atmy work in the parkin lot so i cant really do a comprsion check lol but i will look for rust and wat kind of stuff motor wise should i look for thanks

[speedeast]

well im just meetin the guy atmy work in the parkin lot so i cant really do a comprsion check lol but i will look for rust and wat kind of stuff motor wise should i look for thanks

This is probably too late, but look for oil leaks. Check the oil and see how thick it is. Also rub it in your fingers and feel for particles, that's bad. Do the same for transmission fluid it it's an automatic. Roasted/toasted or homemade wiring and stuff is a no-go in my book.

[billabong093]

Hey guys, im just getting into doing suspension work, i have a new s13 and figured i'd start there for once. I was looking into replacing pretty much everything (energy suspension bushings, Rucas, tension rods, toe rods, tie rods, front lcas, etc..). But the thing is, im a suspension noob. Basically i want my car to have a new suspension and obviously improve handling/durability/longevity. What would you all recommend me getting? and i know all these suspension components are adjustable, but i dont know the first thing about tuning a suspension so is this the wrong stuff for me?

thanks

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well what are you looking to do with the car? Do you plan on keeping it a street car, or are you going to turn it into a track car?
If you are going to keep it a street car, you probably don't need all the stuff you've listed. If there is a shimmy in the wheel or something (and your tires are in balance), then you might have to replace some of the stuff (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc), but otherwise you should start out with some coilovers and some rear upper control arms so you can adjust your camber (and not eat through tires like its your job). You'll notice the biggest difference from that. After that, maybe thicker sway bars, and a bushing kit. Remember, you're going to need an alignment after you do pretty much anything to the suspension.

[240skitzo]

I'm working on my Zenki it was in a front end collision and needs the hood front bumper fenders and headlights replaced i been going back and forth trying to decide if i should keep it with the zenki front end or do the kouki front conversion. untill i started lookin at the S15 i came across a site selling the whole s15 conversion kit for a good price including everything but the headlights. I was wondering if it was a direct application to do the S15 conversion or is more modifications needed

[dickie]

If the S15 parts are not specifically made for a conversion, which should be noted in their description, you will have cutting and welding to do to make them fit.

personally i prefer a clean zenki over any conversion

[240skitzo]

If the S15 parts are not specifically made for a conversion, which should be noted in their description, you will have cutting and welding to do to make them fit.

personally i prefer a clean zenki over any conversion

yea i like the zenki look too. but i need a new set of headlights. If i had cancer and only a few days to live and the only way i could pay a doctor to live would be to get him a nice set of zenki headlights i would probably die. I will most likely do the kouki conversion

[motorsndesigns1307]

Yes, an RB26 swap will cost you nearly 10,000 if done with name-brand parts. Think of cost of specialty tools that are needed. Maybe having to rent a hoist. The price of a front mount, a good BOV, water pump, thermostat, having the wiring harness chopped and spliced for you, new plugs, a couple of gaskets, fluids, motor mounts, a driveshaft, a clutch, and other things make swaps cost a LOT. I only gave 2k for my SR20, but I guarantee by the time it was all done and over paying for the space rental at the hobby shop, along with the other things I mentioned, I most likely spent over 4k.

As far as the part where you said "I think it's a 96 model that can be swapped." I'm going to say this with as much respect as I possibly can. Try to avoid answering questions in this thread until you have done some more research. 95-98 have no actual chassis differences. Only differences are 96-98 are OBDII. Therefore, dropping an RB26 in a 96 would be no different than dropping it in a 98.

" try to avoid questions in this thread until youve actually done some more research '
hmm let see.... i didnt say " i think its a 96 model that can be swapped" let me say this with as much respect ...read back....carefully .... i said yes you can swap an rb26 into a 96.....
onto my next point, i said the engine shouldnt cost more then 5,000.... THE ENGINE.... i didnt say the swap.
i did say however if your paying 10k you should be getting it swapped also.....
soooooo before trying to bash someone please...read carefully
third point.... paying someone to do wireharness is a in my opinion a waste of money.... its not that difficult to do yourself... and i would suggest repinning as opposed to slicing it looks a lot cleaner

[billabong093]

Well what are you looking to do with the car? Do you plan on keeping it a street car, or are you going to turn it into a track car?
If you are going to keep it a street car, you probably don't need all the stuff you've listed. If there is a shimmy in the wheel or something (and your tires are in balance), then you might have to replace some of the stuff (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc), but otherwise you should start out with some coilovers and some rear upper control arms so you can adjust your camber (and not eat through tires like its your job). You'll notice the biggest difference from that. After that, maybe thicker sway bars, and a bushing kit. Remember, you're going to need an alignment after you do pretty much anything to the suspension.

Just a street car. I live on long island, tracks are far and few between. Im a "spirited" driver just looking to make my car as nice as possible. I was thinking coils, rucas, and bushings then. Thanks for the help.

[NYIntensity]

I'm working on my Zenki it was in a front end collision and needs the hood front bumper fenders and headlights replaced i been going back and forth trying to decide if i should keep it with the zenki front end or do the kouki front conversion. untill i started lookin at the S15 i came across a site selling the whole s15 conversion kit for a good price including everything but the headlights. I was wondering if it was a direct application to do the S15 conversion or is more modifications needed

The junkyard near me has three zenki's. Between the three of 'em, I can replace the front end of my car (mismatched colors, of course) for about $100. I may or may not get a deal from the money there because I think he's convinced I'm a fellow mexican.

[240skitzo]

yea i checked all the junkyards near me no zenkis like i said i would die before finding those headlights at least ones that didnt look all ugly i would prefer new ones. not many people around here have 240's ive only seen like 2 other ones on the road

[dickie]

If you want to get out of the whole ordeal for cheap, what you need to do is drive a ways and find the body parts at a yard or through craigslist cheap.

if you don't want crappy looking headlights that yellow and haze up quickly there are aftermarket options out there for you like final konexxion or JDM glass housing lights. i guarantee this will still be cheaper than piecing a complete kouki front end as you have to deal with:

parts availability is next to none, you think finding zenki stuff is bad...

high demand - everyone wants it, and they are willing to pay. front end swap is expensive, might as well sell the zenki and find a whole kouki rather than just trying to get the front off of one.

if kouki is your thing go for it. be prepared to spend more and wait longer. if its worth it, you will make it happen.

[odmoht]

How do I know if my tension rods are bad?
the adjustable pillow ball rods.

[speedeast]

How do I know if my tension rods are bad?
the adjustable pillow ball rods.

They rarely ever go bad... you only change them to make them "adjustable." But if there is any play in their fitment, then they are bad.

[odmoht]

how about the actual part where the ball joint is at?
there is a lot of free play, i guess you can say.
or is that normal?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

No, if there is free play, they should be replaced. Is there free play on both of them? You are going to want to verify that it isn't the lower control arm that has free play as well.

[WhiteZenki23]

hey papasmurf the last bottom left stud of my exhaust mani is broken deep which i cant get any grip.
What can i do to get it out???
PS ; will this affect me putting a turbo with one of the studs missing???

[PyR0NiAk]

Stud missing equals an exhaust leak... Try an ez-out to get it out...

[speedeast]

Stud missing equals an exhaust leak... Try an ez-out to get it out...

Ez-out ftw!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah if you can't get it with an easy out, you'll probably have to remove the entire manifold, and then go at it with a set of vice grips or something. If you have enough thread left, you might be able to weld a nut on to it or something and remove it from the head that way. Don't forget to buy new exhaust manifold gaskets if you go this route. You definitely want all of your studs if you are adding a turbo.

[odmoht]

free play on both rods
where would i go to replace them or can i do it myself?
rods are off the car

[speedeast]

You can do it yourself. If you buy new ones, you'll probably need new hardware for them as well. You can take the old studs out, but when I did, they didn't really even fit into my new rods. I got the studs off by rigging up a pulley puller and clamping it down to a socket that was bigger than the head of the stud.

[odmoht]

oh noo
not the studs.


the left part of the tension rods.
the half spherical ball, if this part has a lot of free play.
does that mean its bad..o.0