I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[s14derrick]

maybe not to sure. the jdsperformance dvd showed me. but i wasnt paying attention because i already have the manual one for my swap lol

[Dazzla]

i hear that there is a flap or something that needs to be cut or bent to use the A/T plate on a manual.

Does anyone know what bolt i need to bolt my clutch pedal to my car. i have it all finished for my swap but i dont know the bolt i need. im horrible at this kinda stuff

Here are the bolts you need for a s14 auto > manual swap: (I have this printed, I just have to goto Nissan and order it all!)

Bolts = 08131-0601A / 60mm length / 4 needed Washers = 08915-2401A / 4 needed

Bolt = 08131-0701A / 70mm length / 1 needed Washer = 08915-2401A

Bolts = 08124-0301F / 35mm / 2 needed Nuts = 08911-2401A / 2 needed

Bolt = 08124-0601F / 65mm / 1 needed Nut = 09811-2401A / 1 needed

Bolt = 08071-0251A / 25mm / 1 needed

Starter Bolts = 01121-03751 / 95mm / 2 needed

[s14derrick]

which one of those bolts the pedal to the car. i have one place up under the dash that i need a bolt

[Dazzla]

ok guys for wiring the m/t into the s14 I've got a few questions.

1995 s14automatic ECU1. I have a s14 speed sensor plugged into the transmission, what plugs into the speed sensor? Do I have to wire anything from this speed sensor to the ECU?

2. I have to wire the neutral switch and the reverse lamp switch. Do I wire those to my ECU or my fuse box? I will be using my Auto ECU does that make any difference as far as the wiring goes?

I've seen the guides online, but i'm a complete n00b at this electrical stuff.

What kind of plugs do you use for wiring these? Where do I go to buy them lol

[odmoht]

not sure if i can help but i used a MT lower harness??i am also using my auto ecu, i think it will throw a CEL. forgot what i read haha.on the VSS ur suppose to have a wire coming out of it and it connects to the lower harness.

[diggles240]

Dazzla- you can use the a/t trans harness. The s14 speed sensor does not have a tail/plug like the s13 sensor. Read this:

speed sensor identification

Wire the neutral and reverse to the ECM and read the link that Salem posted for ka24development.com. It covers the wiring issues. Again, do not wire the 5th position switch to an a/t ECM.

Look at the a/t lower harness and find/reuse a plug for future removal of the transmission rather than hard wiring those sensors. This should not be difficult to accomplish.

[odmoht]

=O i didnt know thatwould you still have the "jump" the neutral sensor from the a/t harness?

[Dazzla]

Dazzla- you can use the a/t trans harness. The s14 speed sensor does not have a tail/plug like the s13 sensor. Read this:

speed sensor identification

Wire the neutral and reverse to the ECM and read the link that Salem posted for ka24development.com. It covers the wiring issues. Again, do not wire the 5th position switch to an a/t ECM.

Look at the a/t lower harness and find/reuse a plug for future removal of the transmission rather than hard wiring those sensors. This should not be difficult to accomplish.

Do you have MSN? There's alot of little things I'd love to get clear since you are the person who has been able to make the most sense to me!

#1 But now I'm confused about the speed sensor wiring. What does the speed sensor plug into, and how? I'm assuming that the wire running to my auto speed sensor will directly plug into my new s14 speed sensor, correct?

#2 I seem to have a sensor on the top of the transmission. I think this is the CAS? Is it the same thing as the speed sensor? Same plug that connects to my auto CAS, now connects to the m/t CAS?

#3 Will their be any unused plugs from the auto transmission that I will need to cut off or close off once I put in the m/t transmission?

EDIT:

Does anyone have a Nissan part # for the "boot": Do I even need it?



Modified by Dazzla at 11:38 PM 8/27/2009
Modified by Dazzla at 11:48 PM 8/27/2009

[canadiantogueking]

so I am confused, with aftermarket suspension and wheel's the widest I can go is 205?! 2nd. Do you need to have different rated tires to get up to high speed such as 150-170mph?

[1991SE240SX]

hello all. so yea...im a newbie and have a problem. first-a little into on me and my car.....im 25 and have owned many sweet cars but have wanted a 240 for the past 6 years. I spent the last 4 years searching for my dream ride with no luck. Until Feb of this year-i went to a police auction and found my baby. And i got the winning bid of $600.

She is a 1991 SE coupe with a KA-DE, Auto, 90k miles, working HUD, only rust is on passenger rocker panel, previously a non-smoker car, brand new Yokohamas, and surprsingly clean paint job(Gun metal metallic with NICE clear coat)

Car has always ran like a champ. and has never let me down....until as of the past 2-3 weeks.

so i have done mass researching and what not and know that 240's are known for the infamous idle issues. But my prob is a lil more hectic than that. I have a crazy idle prob(after the car warms up). it will be at the normal 600 RPM mark and then go up to almost 2k then down as for as 100 RPM. Followed by shaking pretty hard.....and black smoke coming out of my exhaust. Seems like i have to double foot it at lights jus to keep it from stalling out. the smoke isnt super thick.....but its enough to leave a black tint on my bumper above the muffler.

thought it was a vacuum leak, but after a good look over and some starting fluid, it checked out ok. i pulled my plugs to check their condition-and they have a black sooty deal all over them(except the little platinum diode). then.....after all that, was told i had a leaky injector(dont know why it would only do it when it was warmed up....i thought an injector would be bad right off the bat) so i ripped out the entire s13 unit(fuel rail, injectors,lines,and FPR) and switched in a slightly used s14 unit. everything was working fine...until 3-4 days later when the symptoms slowly crept back into view.

I had it in my driveway idling(and it was idling like dog shyt) and hit the cat with my breaker bar and it stalled the car instantly. I hit it hard as hell too. WTF?? ive always suspected a cat prob because since ive owned the car......after driving around for a while-id get whiffs of a sulfery stinky smell(some strong & some light). but not to the extint it is now. After i hit the cat-it seems to feel like a better car. But once it warms up...the sluggish feeling starts. would a cat cause that many problems tho??

I run codes reguraly and 99% of the time ive gotten a 5-5 readout. The 1 other time i got 3-3 or 3-5(not sure) readout and it had something to do with the exhaust oxygen sensor according to the FSM i have. So....i went and got a new bosch o2 sensor. seemed to be fine yet again and couple days later......de ja vu'. i rulled out the MAF just because that would not let me rev up past 2500,right? i was thinking maybe a faulty IACV??? maybe ignition coil???

heres a list of parts i have-might be a cause or lead to the prob......

-S14 Injen Intake(didnt know there was a diff when i bought it from a friend. Finding out only diff is the s14 lacking the breather tube connection for tube off the valve cover. Worked fine for me, got a Spectre mini-filter and put it on the valve cove. Ran perfectly fine and problem free for 6-7months)

-NGK Platinum 2 spark plugs

-NGK S14 blue spark plug wires. 8mm i think??....(only have 4-plug wires......still have o.e. ignition coil wire on coil and Dist.)

-AVI removed

-Megan Front Upper Strut Bar (3-hole mounting plates, not 2-hole. whats the diff???)

-Reg maintained oil changes w/ Lucas 4cyl formula every 3k, Lucas fuel system cleaner, fresh Trans fluid w/ Lucas ATF conditioner and stabilizer.

-Premium Gas only(usually 91 oct....sometimes 94)

-knockoff 5Zigen Fireball muffler(ghetto as fuhk 2.5" piping. From almost cat-back.....)

thats about all i can think of worth mentioning. any info and/or feedback would and will be greatly apprciated. thanx to all that can help.

[diggles240]

Do you have MSN? There's alot of little things I'd love to get clear since you are the person who has been able to make the most sense to me!

#1 But now I'm confused about the speed sensor wiring. What does the speed sensor plug into, and how? I'm assuming that the wire running to my auto speed sensor will directly plug into my new s14 speed sensor, correct?

#2 I seem to have a sensor on the top of the transmission. I think this is the CAS? Is it the same thing as the speed sensor? Same plug that connects to my auto CAS, now connects to the m/t CAS?

#3 Will their be any unused plugs from the auto transmission that I will need to cut off or close off once I put in the m/t transmission?

EDIT:

Does anyone have a Nissan part # for the "boot": Do I even need it?

Sorry, I do not have MSN or whatever. I will try to answer your questions, but I seriously believe the best thing to do is purchase the 5 Speed Swap DVD from JDS Performance.

#1: The m/t speed sensor plugs into the a/t harness as shown in this pic (you can see the a/t VSS in the background):



#2: The sensor on top of the bellhousing is the CKPS (or CAS, as you refer to it as). It does not have anything to do with the speed sensor. It is basically OBDII crap. I know your car is a '95, but it still has a lot of OBDII junk on it. Review the transmission diagram in the FSM for the location of all sensors. Just take the CKPS from your a/t and mount/connect it to your m/t bellhousing. Be careful with it though and remove it before removing the transmission. They have been known to be damaged easily.

#3: The easiest thing that I can say is review this link for wiring questions. Or, review the link that Salem provided for ka24development.com.

There is a console boot and the upper shifter boot- but I cannot seem to find the part number right now. And yes, you should have that part.

Hope that helps.
Modified by diggles240 at 1:07 AM 8/29/2009

[Dazzla]

That helps alot! So I should use the CKPS off of my auto transmission, not the one on my m/t transmission? Will it make any difference?

[DriftTwin86]

Can anyone direct me to a site or a write up of how to install a KA24DE A/C, Heater system? I can not seem to locate one and the FMS didn't seem to have an installation part to it for the A/C, I've also used the search feature here and came up with nothing. I could have missed it though.

Thanks ahead of time.

[diggles240]

That helps alot! So I should use the CKPS off of my auto transmission, not the one on my m/t transmission? Will it make any difference?

Use whichever one you do not break They both have the same part number.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

so I am confused, with aftermarket suspension and wheel's the widest I can go is 205?! 2nd. Do you need to have different rated tires to get up to high speed such as 150-170mph?

Pretty sure you can go AT LEAST 275 in the back and 245 in the front.

Yes, there are different speed ratings for tires. Z is the highest.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

hello all. so yea...im a newbie and have a problem. first-a little into on me and my car.....im 25 and have owned many sweet cars but have wanted a 240 for the past 6 years. I spent the last 4 years searching for my dream ride with no luck. Until Feb of this year-i went to a police auction and found my baby. And i got the winning bid of $600.

She is a 1991 SE coupe with a KA-DE, Auto, 90k miles, working HUD, only rust is on passenger rocker panel, previously a non-smoker car, brand new Yokohamas, and surprsingly clean paint job(Gun metal metallic with NICE clear coat)

Car has always ran like a champ. and has never let me down....until as of the past 2-3 weeks.

so i have done mass researching and what not and know that 240's are known for the infamous idle issues. But my prob is a lil more hectic than that. I have a crazy idle prob(after the car warms up). it will be at the normal 600 RPM mark and then go up to almost 2k then down as for as 100 RPM. Followed by shaking pretty hard.....and black smoke coming out of my exhaust. Seems like i have to double foot it at lights jus to keep it from stalling out. the smoke isnt super thick.....but its enough to leave a black tint on my bumper above the muffler.

thought it was a vacuum leak, but after a good look over and some starting fluid, it checked out ok. i pulled my plugs to check their condition-and they have a black sooty deal all over them(except the little platinum diode). then.....after all that, was told i had a leaky injector(dont know why it would only do it when it was warmed up....i thought an injector would be bad right off the bat) so i ripped out the entire s13 unit(fuel rail, injectors,lines,and FPR) and switched in a slightly used s14 unit. everything was working fine...until 3-4 days later when the symptoms slowly crept back into view.

I had it in my driveway idling(and it was idling like dog shyt) and hit the cat with my breaker bar and it stalled the car instantly. I hit it hard as hell too. WTF?? ive always suspected a cat prob because since ive owned the car......after driving around for a while-id get whiffs of a sulfery stinky smell(some strong & some light). but not to the extint it is now. After i hit the cat-it seems to feel like a better car. But once it warms up...the sluggish feeling starts. would a cat cause that many problems tho??

I run codes reguraly and 99% of the time ive gotten a 5-5 readout. The 1 other time i got 3-3 or 3-5(not sure) readout and it had something to do with the exhaust oxygen sensor according to the FSM i have. So....i went and got a new bosch o2 sensor. seemed to be fine yet again and couple days later......de ja vu'. i rulled out the MAF just because that would not let me rev up past 2500,right? i was thinking maybe a faulty IACV??? maybe ignition coil???

heres a list of parts i have-might be a cause or lead to the prob......

-S14 Injen Intake(didnt know there was a diff when i bought it from a friend. Finding out only diff is the s14 lacking the breather tube connection for tube off the valve cover. Worked fine for me, got a Spectre mini-filter and put it on the valve cove. Ran perfectly fine and problem free for 6-7months)

-NGK Platinum 2 spark plugs

-NGK S14 blue spark plug wires. 8mm i think??....(only have 4-plug wires......still have o.e. ignition coil wire on coil and Dist.)

-AVI removed

-Megan Front Upper Strut Bar (3-hole mounting plates, not 2-hole. whats the diff???)

-Reg maintained oil changes w/ Lucas 4cyl formula every 3k, Lucas fuel system cleaner, fresh Trans fluid w/ Lucas ATF conditioner and stabilizer.

-Premium Gas only(usually 91 oct....sometimes 94)

-knockoff 5Zigen Fireball muffler(ghetto as fuhk 2.5" piping. From almost cat-back.....)

thats about all i can think of worth mentioning. any info and/or feedback would and will be greatly apprciated. thanx to all that can help.

holy crap man you wrote a book... you might want to make that into its own thread. I've had a catalytic converter go bad on me once... and it is pretty alarming how quickly things go south, and how bad they can get.

[1991SE240SX]

yea....haha-papa smurf. I figured id give as much detail as possible to help fix the prob. thats another reason why i listed whats parts i have, have replaced, etc etc. i took your advice and started my own thread about it. thanx man. later

[OutToWinPAHC]

With the proper offset you can go wide without pulling fenders or widebody.. I am going to a 285-40-17 in the rear on a 17x9+35 and 225-45-17 in the front but I could put a 245 up there..

[odmoht]

yeeeaah ok! having trouble with my clutch pedal. it always snaps back when i pull it up manually.tried to bleed it and only got about an inch of "stiffness" should i keep bleeding it or could it be a problem with my clutch pedal?oh, im finishing up auto > 5spd swap. if that helps anyone.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sounds like you need to keep bleeding it. Were you still getting bubbles when bleeding it? Maybe your master cylinder is airbound or something. Did you bench bleed it before putting it in?

[odmoht]

problemo solved ! uhhgg.thanks for all the help!!#!@$!@#!@!!#!@#!@!
Modified by odmoht at 2:24 PM 9/1/2009

[Ghast]

So what happens when Nice guy "A" decides to help out Dumb guy "b". When dumb guy "B" needs a jump start.

Dumb Guy "B" Places cables to his vehicle without nice guy "A" knowing.

Well nice guy "A" knows that you should never f*** up when placing clamps to terminals.

Dumb guy "B" admits to just guessing.

Nice guy "A" looks over at dumb guy "b"'s mistake and now realizes his car is acting f***ing wierd.

Ok guys my accessories are all working fine it seems like but the battery does not really want to hold a charge. But when i give power from another vehicle the battery still does not want to hold a charge.

Like i said it seems as though all of my accessories are working perfectly though.

Let me explain more in depth. With a running donor car hooked up properly to jump my car. My car acts as if it is not getting enough power. When i unhook the ground for awhile to reset the ECU and then reconnect everything on my car. The car started but then died about 5 minutes after. Car ran fine but accessories slowly started to dim along with my lights and everything, As if the battery was not holding charge.

Is it safe to assume that only my battery may have gotten killed in my neighbors stupidity (and my trust of not checking his work, even though i watch this guy build engines all day long, to not even think he could f*** up on jumping a car)

I do not want to make a thread. I just want some help. Thanks

[tom1012]

im trying to plan an intake for my sohc and i was wondering what the two vacuum lines on the intake pipe closest to the manifold run to? im not concerned with the ones coming off the manifold, jus the ones before it. Ive seen pictures of ppl who hav disconnected the one that runs to the valve gasket and im wondering if i can do the same? i jus remember that ive driven with that loose before and my car acted funny. So clear it up for me so i can get this done and done right. ty

[megaderk]

so i drive a '90 240sx with the ka24e engine and my Idle Air Control Valve is fried n stuck wide open so my car idles usually between 2000 an 2500 RPM in neutral.

im looking for a used one because new is expensive an over $200 and in one of my WTB threads a guy offered this.

"I dont have one at the moment for your ka24e however my friend used to have a 92 Stanza which is a ka24e, if its the same thing I can find out of he has his spare one, find out and I'll see how much."

are the 240sx and stanza KA24E engines the same thing?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Try the parts sites like Nissanparts.org, courtesy, and other and see if they have the part number then look it up for the other car and see if its the same.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I do not want to make a thread. I just want some help. Thanks

Sounds like your alternator is toast to me... maybe you cooked the diodes when the cables were hooked up wrong. Your battery probably wont last long either... you might want to replace both at once.

[odmoht]

uhg...having trouble after the 5spd swap.my car won't go past 4k rpms...im using an Auto ECU.i also loosened the 27mm crank pully nut on accident when i was trying to take off the AT flexplate.could that be another reason why my car is revving past 4k rpm?my friend said i could have messed up the timing..o.0

oh and i have a 92 hb, if that helps.

[Dazzla]

The ECU isn't a problem because alot of people use the auto one. I'm not exactly sure what it could be.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah, um, you are going to want to torque down on that crank pulley if you haven't already... that thing being loose is definitely NOT good.

[odmoht]

alright cool. car goes past 4k now.but since i loosened/ tightened the crank nut, will it mess up my timing?i dont kno much about the timing n stuff, 2 of my friends said the loosening of the nut could make my timing off...o.0

Thanks for the help mann