Did you replace your master cylinder too? You might have to pull that out and back off the fork section on the rod, thus giving your master cylinder more travel, which means it can move more fluid.odmoht wrote:ooookive bleed it with that straw technique and worked good.but i still have the same pedal travel, about a good 2-3 inches till it hits metal and i still get about 3inches of "play", i can pull up on the pedal and get that much distance.also does the white plastic piece on the spring help alot? cuz when i got my pedal it was really busted. i poked at it n it fell off.
Those bolts are studs, and I'm pretty sure they are part of the upper spring seat. You might be able to remove the strut and see if you can get the old stud out, and put a new one in though.tmwnn wrote:Quick question :
I was installing a rear strutbar in my 93 hatch, and one of the bolts broke.
I've been looking online, but I don't know if I can just replace the one bolt, or if I have to buy what the FSM calls "upper spring seat"?
thank you
Modified by tmwnn at 12:01 AM 9/8/2009
yes it can. pull em out and gap them to .044s14derrick wrote:i just checked i have the g poweer ngk plugs.
it says they are not pre gapped. can that cause my car to die at startup until i give it gas?
DEFINITELY replace the rear main seal. The oil pan gasket is a little more of a pain in the a** to scrape off the pan, but I'd do it if you have spare time/money.Dazzla wrote:hey guys, doing a 5speed swap at the moment.
my rear main seal (between transmission and engine) does not leak, but should i replace it anyway? also is this a good time to replace the oil pan gasket?
OK I will do the main seal then. Are their any other seals that I should be replacing at this time?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
DEFINITELY replace the rear main seal. The oil pan gasket is a little more of a pain in the a** to scrape off the pan, but I'd do it if you have spare time/money.
I'm gonna put in the clutch that came with it as this will be my first real manual car, so it should be enough to learn on at the least. I've got a new throwout bearing.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Don't know if you are putting in a new clutch, but you probably should, along with throwout bearing. You also might want to look into getting a stronger clutch fork pivot bolt. http://www.splparts.com has them.
Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to go another route and just spray some WD-40 around the hose and PCV valve?Kalypso wrote:
If im not mistaken about the PCV valve and what you're referring to.
I think the best thing, is too remove the entire intake manifoldit seems like a big job, but takes 20 mins, if you have the tools.
the best way to reach something is to disassemble it, or the parts around it.
2g00d4u wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to go another route and just spray some WD-40 around the hose and PCV valve?
And also. What is considered an ideal idle for an SOHC? 600-800 RPM?