I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Why
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thank you OutToWinPAHC for the link it has tons of great useful info for me

rzerob if 97'sand 98's are the same why would 98's be rare to come by? I am looking four a kouki just as a newer model and either way am lookin to put a vertex kit on it.


odmoht
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they are rare because they there weren't that many made in America as opposed to the other years and models.why not just get a 95-96 s14 zenki with low miles?

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tmwnn
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Car: '93 240sx

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Quick question :

I was installing a rear strutbar in my 93 hatch, and one of the bolts broke.

I've been looking online, but I don't know if I can just replace the one bolt, or if I have to buy what the FSM calls "upper spring seat"?

thank you
Modified by tmwnn at 12:01 AM 9/8/2009

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PyR0NiAk
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RB25 fans work... FYI

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PapaSmurf2k3
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odmoht wrote:ooookive bleed it with that straw technique and worked good.but i still have the same pedal travel, about a good 2-3 inches till it hits metal and i still get about 3inches of "play", i can pull up on the pedal and get that much distance.also does the white plastic piece on the spring help alot? cuz when i got my pedal it was really busted. i poked at it n it fell off.
Did you replace your master cylinder too? You might have to pull that out and back off the fork section on the rod, thus giving your master cylinder more travel, which means it can move more fluid.

Also, I don't bleed mine with the bleeder valve open (unless I am doing a 1-man gravity bleed). With the clutch box removed and the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder tight: Pump the clutch a bunch of times, hold it to the floor, crack the bleeder screw. It probably takes more than just 5 pumps, but after a few times bleeding it, you should start to get pressure in the pedal.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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tmwnn wrote:Quick question :

I was installing a rear strutbar in my 93 hatch, and one of the bolts broke.

I've been looking online, but I don't know if I can just replace the one bolt, or if I have to buy what the FSM calls "upper spring seat"?

thank you

Modified by tmwnn at 12:01 AM 9/8/2009
Those bolts are studs, and I'm pretty sure they are part of the upper spring seat. You might be able to remove the strut and see if you can get the old stud out, and put a new one in though.

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Dazzla
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hey guys, doing a 5speed swap at the moment.

my rear main seal (between transmission and engine) does not leak, but should i replace it anyway? also is this a good time to replace the oil pan gasket?

hydroman75
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Car: 1989 240sx

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Hey Guys, I could really use your advice:

I have a 1989 240sx - was with my dad when he bought it in 1991. I inherited the car when I went to college, and it was my only transportation until a month ago when I bought a new Mazda RX8. Now I can FINALLY play with the 240. Only problem is, I've never done anything like this before. I definitely have the enthusiasm, but I am blazing a completely new trail here for myself if I begin working on this car.

I want to make it a beast, but I want/need to start VERY small. Baby steps here. My question is: what would you recommend is the safest way to begin working with the 240? What upgrade do you feel is (at the same time) easy and rewarding?

Thanks!
Modified by hydroman75 at 12:27 PM 9/9/2009

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Dazzla
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Coilovers are #1...you will fall in love with your car to another level.

I bought my car 2 years ago. Coilovers last month were my first real upgrade and since then I've gone crazy in the month or two.

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Jay420sx
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^^ Is right! I bought my 240 with coilovers and it is so much fun to drive, suspension is a good place to start.

s14derrick
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i feel really stupid now. i just swapped out spark plugs and wires. also put in a new positive battery terminal. now when i start the car it will start right up but then the rpms drop and it dies. if i give it a little gas and rev it over 1k it will stay started. i used oem ngk wires and plugs.

i forgot to check the gap on them, they were ngk platinum plugs. do i need to gap them could that be causing it to die? also a little bit of oil got into the combustion chamber because of a bad valvecover gasket when i swapped plugs. could that cause any problems?

s14derrick
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i just checked i have the g poweer ngk plugs.

it says they are not pre gapped. can that cause my car to die at startup until i give it gas?

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240tunerguy
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s14derrick wrote:i just checked i have the g poweer ngk plugs.

it says they are not pre gapped. can that cause my car to die at startup until i give it gas?
yes it can. pull em out and gap them to .044

s14derrick
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thanks for the response thats my guess to. i should have checked the gap instead of throwing them in

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240tunerguy
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no prob. i always check the gap, even if they are pre gapped, ya never know

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Steady_One_S13
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Hey guys, I just acquired a differential from a 1996 300zx n/a with an automatic transmission.I checked the Z32 FSM and it doesn't tell me much whether the diff has a LSD or not. My question is... is the diff from a n/a 300zx, w/ an automatic 4spd transmission, an LSD?Just need clarification. Got the diff for 49.99 at a local salvage yard.Thanks in advance.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Dazzla wrote:hey guys, doing a 5speed swap at the moment.

my rear main seal (between transmission and engine) does not leak, but should i replace it anyway? also is this a good time to replace the oil pan gasket?
DEFINITELY replace the rear main seal. The oil pan gasket is a little more of a pain in the a** to scrape off the pan, but I'd do it if you have spare time/money.

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Dazzla
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
DEFINITELY replace the rear main seal. The oil pan gasket is a little more of a pain in the a** to scrape off the pan, but I'd do it if you have spare time/money.
OK I will do the main seal then. Are their any other seals that I should be replacing at this time?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Don't know if you are putting in a new clutch, but you probably should, along with throwout bearing. You also might want to look into getting a stronger clutch fork pivot bolt. http://www.splparts.com has them.

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Dazzla
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Don't know if you are putting in a new clutch, but you probably should, along with throwout bearing. You also might want to look into getting a stronger clutch fork pivot bolt. http://www.splparts.com has them.
I'm gonna put in the clutch that came with it as this will be my first real manual car, so it should be enough to learn on at the least. I've got a new throwout bearing.

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Dire91
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I want to hear peoples opinions on the Buddy Club Spec 2 Exhaust vs. the HKS Hi Power Exhaust.Also the the HKS the can is really big so if the car was lowered wouldn't it get the s*** scraped out of it?

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EnjoiNismo
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I personally haven't heard buddy club spec 2 exhaust.I have the HKS hi Power exhaust and i love it.But yes the can is pretty big, and if your lowered your going to have to watch where you drive. But its not that bad.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I've never paid for aftermarket exhaust, I just make my own. Mine comes off my turbo (3"), goes into a Magnaflow resonator, takes a right turn, cuts down to 2.5", and dumps out of my driver's side rocker panel, kinda like a viper.

Total cost? ~$80 for the resonator, $80 for the pipe and exhaust shop work... the rot hole in my rocker panel was free, but I did patch up around it.

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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so here it goes..

i was looking in some 240sx ka24de cams specs and from 91-98 varies ..

91-94 240/24895-98 232/232 there is a difference between those years , does that mean that if i got a stock ka 95 and a stock ka 94 in a race. The 94 will beat the 95 cuz the cams???????is that true??

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PapaSmurf2k3
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no, cos the 94 is a convertable and an automatic, and heavier.

Supposodly, only the 91 had the more agressive cam package, all the other KA24DEs make their respective 155hp in a different way. But yes, if you swap 91 cams into your 95 or whatever KA, you'll have more power.

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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so u think that is worth buying performance cams .. without turbocharging ...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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dollar for dollar, pound for pound, your money is best spent on forced induction.

However, if you come across a 91 in a junk yard or something, and can get the cams for like $20 or whatever, I'd snatch them up.

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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did u get performance cams for ur 91 ka-t???/

2g00d4u
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Kalypso wrote:
If im not mistaken about the PCV valve and what you're referring to.

I think the best thing, is too remove the entire intake manifoldit seems like a big job, but takes 20 mins, if you have the tools.

the best way to reach something is to disassemble it, or the parts around it.
Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to go another route and just spray some WD-40 around the hose and PCV valve?

And also. What is considered an ideal idle for an SOHC? 600-800 RPM?

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240tunerguy
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2g00d4u wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to go another route and just spray some WD-40 around the hose and PCV valve?

And also. What is considered an ideal idle for an SOHC? 600-800 RPM?


750 rpm +/- 50 rpm. its in the fsm


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