Not sure about the rust. Ill ask.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:Does it have any rust?
Anyways, I'd still try to talk him down to around 3K.
No rust at all is what he said. I thought about sellin seperate but havent gotten any bites at 3700. Might lower it to 3500 or somethin.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:Rust will be a HUGE factor. If it's rusted out, walk away immediately.
I'd say if you don't get around $3500 for the Jeep in the trade, just sell it seperately. My dad has one similar as far as upgrades.
Lol well any help is good to have. I really appreciate it. I know 240 basics..but am no expert. I know way more about Jeeps..and a good deal about Hondas thanks to all my friends lol.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:Idk, I'd still say around 3K max. I don't really know what the deal is with his typing and grammar though.
Anyways, I'm no expert. Smurf should be around soon and he'll chime in and give his advice, which is always better than mine, lol.
Good luck!
Yeah Im kinda steerin away from the white hatch now. After you pointed a couple things out. Looks like the front bumper is a diff white then the rest of the car. The side skirts are horrible. I looked up the value on NADA and the price i like 2100 bucks. He seems pretty set on gettin 3.5 out of it too. Not gonna throw away 1500 bucks for nothin.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I'd stay away from that SOHC white hatch... its kinda giving me the heeby jeebies... Definitely not worth 3 grand... 2.5 MAYBE. It DOES have some nice bits and pieces to it (5 lug swap, seats, etc). You could always just go and take it for a test drive though... don't know what's going on with that shift boot and E-brake cover. Its also missing its wheel well liner.
And then there is the vert... wonder why it has a pignose bumper. Probably been in an accident. I'd say go for it if it had the stock front bumper and already had the 5 speed swap done. If you're looking for a "get to know my car" project, you could pick it up and do the 5 speed swap. Again, the car is DEFINITELY not worth 5k. Maybe 3.
Things to look for in a used 240:http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=181881
ESPECIALLY look for rust under the rocker panels.
Oh so overpriced 240's are everywhere? Lol i only meant it cause most people overprice EVERYTHING around here.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:Get used to it. Unless the seller of the 240 has been living under a rock for the past few years, it'll most likely be overpriced. You just gotta find the best of the worst if you know what I mean.
Another thing to think about would be to drive somewhere and get the car. Like a state where rust is not a problem. 240s are abundant in CA and most have little to no rust. Good deals can always be found round there. I waited and searched for a while until I found a clean, unabused one in San Diego. Within a week we drove out there and trailered it home.
Well I was thinking that I'll knock off all the rot, grind down the rust, paint, and get a steel plate that is a little bigger than the problem area and weld it over. Do you think it will change the integrity at all (surely its better than rot).d!ck wrote:grinder would help you find the extent of the rot but if you are just going to cut it out anyway it could be a waste of effort.
Now that you put it that way, I think I'll do that. Thanksalfsnissan wrote:If your going to even mess with the rust and bad metal. Take it all out and replace with good. Why do it half a$$?Ok I see that you do want to do it right but why weld plate over the area? I would properly fit the plate in the area and do some good welds, clean and paint the area. Never know you had done anything there. Thats just me.
Check our sponsors for pricing, you'll need a wiring harness, ECU, transmission (or bell housing), and radiator (I think).loulour6 wrote:im in florida just bought my first nissan what should i pay for a sr20det swap and what else do i have to buy to make it go forward and reverse lol. i assume radiator and lines but what else and where would i go ive been hearing alot from jdm of miami is that the best prices ?? any help would be great
Are you talking about the single slammer? My manifold didn't use lock washers (KA24DE), but it had some kind of thickass washer/shim on them. You COULD use lock washers, but you'll probably only be able to use them once... after they heat up, they'll be toast. I can't remember what the thread pitch was, maybe check the FSM?breadbox wrote:Exhaust stud question.
What size are they length and thread size?
I am considering using antiseize and allen headed bolts. Does exhaust hardware include washers or lock washers?
-Anybody?GranTurismoDriver wrote:How do I install an "over-fender" like this? I've seen some that have what look to be rivets holding it into the body but others look smooth. How can I achieve the smooth look?
Thanks for the advice...PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Crap, sorry dude, I thought I answered that.
I'm not 100% sure on how they secure them in the first place, but I thought it was screws or rivets or something... and then they just bondo over them before paint.