For the front, you could use an angle finder, or just do some math (trig) based off measurements taken. The rear... I guess they are SOMEWHAT adjustable, but I doubt you could get 2.5 degrees out of them. You could take it to an alignment shop and tell them what you want, and they should be able to do it for you (or get it as close as they can).240pr06 wrote:hows it goingis there anyway of getting any negative camber out of stock rucas if so how would i go about adjusting these?? also on the front camber plates on my coilovers how do i know how much degrees im running i know it has a 0 but no other numbers and i need to run about 2.5 degrees of neg camber up front, thanks for any help.
FANTASTIC!ViciousCesar! wrote:i was just on ebay looking for the little black side 'covers' for my right headlight and i came across the 'halo headlight conversions'. i immediately LMAO'd, but come to think of it, i've never actually seen anyone sporting these!
Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. I have no idea what it is lol.alfsnissan wrote:
Is this what your talking about? I thinks its only a wire connector. Someone else know for sure?
Sounds like a bad MAF to me... shouldn't have anything to do with any overdrive button. Check your MAF wiring. Is the car throwing a check engine light?GaMBiTx wrote:hey i resetted the and it still caps outis that normal for 1st gear to cap out at 15mph at 3000 rpm,2nd gear at 25 mph at 3000 rpm...seems like i can't rev any higher
is that the maximum speed for the gears??Auto to manual swap was done on it.
Still using auto ECU...but that should work fine....do i need to unplug something or loop it together???Does it have anything to do with the OVERDRIVE button being on or off before it was pulled.
That's just a wiring harness... why its brown, I have no idea. It didn't come like that from the factory.thatguybryan wrote:
I'm wondering 2 things: What is the brown thing in the center of the side of the motor right in the middle? It's right in between the 2 cam caps. Second of all, does it look normal? I've tried to find pictures of other KA's to no avail, and I can't figure out wtf this is! Thanks to anyone that helps.
I traced it to the distributor and then the other side went somewhere to the intake side of the motor if that helps.
Yup, I know when I got my head rebuilt, they had to use shims for the valve adjustments.gordonliu wrote: I am wondering if shimming is necessary if you are using the stock hydraulic lifters
When I say "shimming" I mean adding shims of different thickness, as you are required to do when you use solid lifters.
I was under the impression that the whole point of the hydraulic lifters (in the stock arrangement) was to avoid having to do this, and therefore make head maintenance worry free/nonexistant.
I read a thread recently mentioning that you have to do it even with the stock lifters.
any advice?
I'm no SR expert, but that sounds about right. My KA is around 18-20 in.Hg.Steady_One_S13 wrote:Hey what's up papasmurf?
Is 17 in.Hg (vac) normal for my sr20det? I just got a new turbo boost gauge and the old one read approx 15 in.Hg. She idles perfect and runs smoothly.I did check for leaks, but could not find anything.
If the rotors I have say that they are 28 mm, does that mean I need 30mm calipers? These are rotors off a '91 z32.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Are they the 30mm brakes, or 26mm brakes?
I ran my 240 a while ago and notice that it idles about 17-19 in.Hg. There's notmuch of a difference when I break, only when I step on the gas. Then, it goes to 20 in.Hg. and back.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I'm no SR expert, but that sounds about right. My KA is around 18-20 in.Hg.
Does yours go down any lower when engine braking? Mine goes as low as 23 in.Hg.
D2 Coilovers.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:What is done to it suspension wise? Coilovers? Depending on the interior, I'd say around $3000, maybe less. If you want more spcific answers, more pics would definately help.
And it looks like it has q45 brakes, which is a plus.