I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[rob912]

very noob question but what does 56k mean? i see it all over the forum

[dahveed]

its a warning for people with slow internet that there are a lot of pictures in the thread, so clicking on it could cause you to crash and whatnot.

so my hatch wont start anymore again! but the horn still works, lights(they popup extremely slow though) and other electronical things still function, albeit a little bit more sluggish. when i turned the key it made a clicking noise, and sounded like the engine wanted to start. yesterday it didnt turn on anything at all, had to jump it. D: my dad still doesnt want to take it to a shop to get it checked out either...

[UndftdSole]

noob question but i was wondering if theres clearance on z32 brakes on steelies?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

hello am also new to this web site ... But i am having trouble whit my sr20 its non turbo would that have any ting to do whit my problem? . And need some help .One of my major problems is that when i start it because it starts and then it just dies i don't know why at first i thought it was the alternator and then i replaced it but the same problem persists. can anyone help me?

I already posted a response to your question. Please forgo your laziness and read responses before making duplicate posts. After all, that is how forums work.

noob question but i was wondering if theres clearance on z32 brakes on steelies?

Vertically, yes, but you will need spacers to get the spokes/dish to clear.

^ Thanks Smurf. 18x8 I'm assuming right?

Yup

Ok, thanks for that info. .... I'm prety sure it's open but I bet I'll just look inside and find out for sure sometime. I'd hate to buy some VLSD if I already have one

I'll take a picture of mine tomorrow when its bright out. It is pretty easy to distinguish between the 2.

alright sorry for lacking commas, lol, i ordered the motor, and rebuilt as soon i got it. Its got eagle rods and pistons w/ hks sleeves. went for the first start and it was running fine (at idle) took it to a shop in delaware for tuning but the timing tensioner went on it. pulled the head and checked internals...everything is ok. was just wondering what someone would pay for it.

For a freshly rebuilt, fully assembled shortblock with forged internals, you should be able to fetch almost $1000. Figure $700-900 if it looks good, has been decked, basically ready to slap a head on it it and go (includes front timing cover/oil pump, etc).

very noob question but what does 56k mean? i see it all over the forum

Way back in the day when Dinosaurs roamed the earth, people used phone lines to connect to the internet. Their computers would literally "dial up" a server, and connect like that. 56k was the speed limit for this style of connection. When it first came out, it was blazingly fast. Rent the movie "Hackers". You will hear them talking about how awesome a computer is with a 28.8k modem, which was the 56k's inferior predecessor.

so my hatch wont start anymore again! but the horn still works, lights(they popup extremely slow though) and other electronical things still function, albeit a little bit more sluggish. when i turned the key it made a clicking noise, and sounded like the engine wanted to start. yesterday it didnt turn on anything at all, had to jump it. D: my dad still doesnt want to take it to a shop to get it checked out either...

So what have you done so far? If you had to jump it, and it worked after that, it meant your battery was dead. If all your electronics worked with the car running, it means your alternator is working, and your battery is shot.If you have a new battery, but this is still happening, then you have something drawing from it, which drains it slowly until you try to start, and it doesn't have a charge left.

[dahveed]

yeah, i bought a new battery about a month ago. all was well up until yesterday.

EDIT: and now my zenki is having problems starting too! when i turn the key everything electrical turns on, but not the engine! maybe after 10 turns it finally starts! my friend that has a '93 vert has had the same problem, he said it was a wire that was in the steering wheel column? its getting pretty annoying that i have two cars and they both have trouble starting now haha.
Modified by dahveed at 7:00 PM 11/13/2008

[PapaSmurf2k3]

the one that takes 10 tries to turn over is most likely a starter. Try swapping batteries in the other car and see if the problem follows it.

You should take your car to Autozone and get the atlernator system tested.

[wessharkey]

ok that helps a fair bit thankswhat are the biggest differences between 180sx, 200sx and 240sx

[PapaSmurf2k3]

the engines, and the countries in which they were sold.

[needfaster240]

This thread is for the new members so that they are able to ask a "repetitive" question. ANYTHING that is 240 / 180 / Silvia related.

This is only for questions and specific answers that may be related to any 240 / 180 / Silvia.

This is for newbs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

ALL MEMBER RESPONSES SHOULD BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.

____________________________________________

THE 240SX Info/Introduction/FAQ Thread (Combined)

240sx How-to ARTICLES



THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!How do I search? You click that button.

So you are new. You can read the Stickies (which we are working to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.

Please refrain from post whoring in this thread. If you want to post whore, go to Gen Chat and get in the v<^ forum game.

If you are a long standing member, and do not wish to answer questions that have probably been asked before, PRESS THE BACK BUTTON ON YOUR WEB BROWSER NOW.

serous tech question....... i have a 240 w/ka24e. head gasket is blown got it back together except the block slipped out of the timing chain. the tensioner is fully extended. can it be reset with out pulling the front cover??? or do i have to replace it????

[PapaSmurf2k3]

serous tech question....... i have a 240 w/ka24e. head gasket is blown got it back together except the block slipped out of the timing chain. the tensioner is fully extended. can it be reset with out pulling the front cover??? or do i have to replace it????

If you think you can get to it, and route the chain the way it needs to go, the tensioner CAN be reset/pushed in without pulling the timing cover. Basically, just push on it. It might be easier to just to take off the timing cover though. You DO NOT want to mess up the valve timing on KA. They are interference motors, and your pistons will slam into you valves. Good luck. Let me know if you have any more questions.

[needfaster240]

thanks for the help now all i need to do is find a place to pry on so idont break anything.

on chrysler and mitsubishi motors you have to push in the oil relief to collapse the tensioner. it just pushes in ?
Modified by needfaster240 at 7:08 PM 11/15/2008

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It just pushes in.

Just one of the many reasons why Nissan is better than Chrysler.

Not only do they push in (on the DE), but there is a little hole that you can put a little thumb tack or pin in to hold it open while you route the chain etc.

[hydro]

Any signs of abuse I can look for when I check out a car with a sr20det redtop with 80k?

Thanks

[trouble racer]

well tanks for all of the answers and suggestions for my 240 ....But what i end it up doing is replacing the alternator because it was bad! now am having some more problems again!! now each time i leave it over night and i go to start it in the morning my battery is draind so some one has to jump start me every time so i have no idea what that problem might be my 240 has a sr20 non turbo... the light that works in the dash board which is the one of the brake stays on even if the brake's off.

[240lookis]

is it safe to run only two of the four camber bolts on coilovers to allow for more camber in the front. i am talking about the bolts on the camber plates. i just want to be able to adjust them further over to give me more negative camber.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Any signs of abuse I can look for when I check out a car with a sr20det redtop with 80k?

Thanks

Bald rear tires. Do a compression check and make sure all cylinders read about the same.

well tanks for all of the answers and suggestions for my 240 ....But what i end it up doing is replacing the alternator because it was bad! now am having some more problems again!! now each time i leave it over night and i go to start it in the morning my battery is draind so some one has to jump start me every time so i have no idea what that problem might be my 240 has a sr20 non turbo... the light that works in the dash board which is the one of the brake stays on even if the brake's off.

Replace the battery, and you probably have a short on your E-brake switch... not a big deal.

is it safe to run only two of the four camber bolts on coilovers to allow for more camber in the front. i am talking about the bolts on the camber plates. i just want to be able to adjust them further over to give me more negative camber.

I wanna say no. There are 4 bolts there for a reason. Do it at your own risk.

[240lookis]

I wanna say no. There are 4 bolts there for a reason. Do it at your own risk.

i just went outside to do this and see the effects and after removing the 2 bolts that were against the strut tower, the camber plate doesn't move anymore anyways, so i just put them back.

[needfaster240]

It just pushes in.

Just one of the many reasons why Nissan is better than Chrysler.

Not only do they push in (on the DE), but there is a little hole that you can put a little thumb tack or pin in to hold it open while you route the chain etc.

now i have a misfire. the wires are right and the timing is good(according to my timing light that broke while trying to figure it out). injectors seem to be firing. i will put a noid light on the to check the circuit. am i missing anything???

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Is this an E or DE engine?

I have more experience with DE, but how bad is the misfire? Is it consistently not firing on one cylinder, or is it every now and then? Is it backfiring through the throttle body, or exhaust?

[needfaster240]

no back fire just a dead hole! im am going to do a compression check on it tonight when i get off work. i do fear the worst........

how hard is a dohc swap?????lol

i also have an electrical issue i need to see if you can get me to a good starting point..............ka23e

[willcharl]

hey im a noob and i need to get some posts in so i can post in the classifides. anyways can you wet sand the head lights on an s14 to get rid of that fade/yellow?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

hey im a noob and i need to get some posts in so i can post in the classifides. anyways can you wet sand the head lights on an s14 to get rid of that fade/yellow?

Yes. Wet sand then buff. There are a few write-ups floating around on NICO if you want to see a how-to about it.

no back fire just a dead hole! im am going to do a compression check on it tonight when i get off work. i do fear the worst........

how hard is a dohc swap?????lol

i also have an electrical issue i need to see if you can get me to a good starting point..............ka23e

Not too bad. Do the compression check, and let me know. The only other thing I can think of is if one of your plugs is shot, or one of your injectors.

[needfaster240]

Not too bad. Do the compression check, and let me know. The only other thing I can think of is if one of your plugs is shot, or one of your injectors.

that electrical issue is the battery light stays on and the head lights go dim and bright as well as the light and then at low rpms/ idle the p/brake light comes an and buzzes. im leaning towards alternater and/or the connections at the alt or the starter. the battery tested good and the connections are good there.

[needfaster240]

Not too bad. Do the compression check, and let me know. The only other thing I can think of is if one of your plugs is shot, or one of your injectors.

ok id did the compression check.... a little background. awhile back i did one and #1 @ 93 #2 @ 91 #3 @ 95 #4 @96. yes that is barely enough to burn gas. last night 1 2 3 4: 148 151 147 149

which leads me to an ignition problem. when i pulled the plugs 2-4 were dry #1 was fuel soaked. swapped 1 & 2 plugs and didnt follow put timing light on it it is @ 15deg btdc spark light cums up with fire in that hole. so at this point im pretty sure its not mechanical. i would like to think the wires cap and button are good since i just put them in around 20k miles.

[240pr06]

hows it going im wanting to replace my s13 map lights with some white leds, i know that they lights are 158 but does anyone know where i can buy some good ones? i didnt want to start a whole thread on this and i searched but found stuff about other car any help would be great thanks guys.

[frapjap]

that electrical issue is the battery light stays on and the head lights go dim and bright as well as the light and then at low rpms/ idle the p/brake light comes an and buzzes. im leaning towards alternater and/or the connections at the alt or the starter. the battery tested good and the connections are good there.

I would be inclined to say alternator and/or connections at the alternator, but most likely the alternator. Good job on diagnosing it yourself!

ok id did the compression check.... a little background. awhile back i did one and #1 @ 93 #2 @ 91 #3 @ 95 #4 @96. yes that is barely enough to burn gas. last night 1 2 3 4: 148 151 147 149

which leads me to an ignition problem. when i pulled the plugs 2-4 were dry #1 was fuel soaked. swapped 1 & 2 plugs and didnt follow put timing light on it it is @ 15deg btdc spark light cums up with fire in that hole. so at this point im pretty sure its not mechanical. i would like to think the wires cap and button are good since i just put them in around 20k miles.

Yeah, that compression is fine. Is it cylinder #1 that cuts out/misfires? It could be a leaky injector. Also, stock timing is 20* BTDC.

EDIT: Damnit, apparently I'm logged in as Frapjap...

[needfaster240]

I would be inclined to say alternator and/or connections at the alternator, but most likely the alternator. Good job on diagnosing it yourself!

Yeah, that compression is fine. Is it cylinder #1 that cuts out/misfires? It could be a leaky injector. Also, stock timing is 20* BTDC.

EDIT: Damnit, apparently I'm logged in as Frapjap...

thank you! i was a diagnostition before i made it behind a desk!!! but some times you just have to go back to basics. such a rooky mistake. it was the connection at the injector. (the car sat for years before i got it.)but it runs like a champ! thanks for all your guys help. we will talk again because i will be putting an sr20det in around spring time. but i have to get the suspension right first.

as far as the alternater, im hoping it the connection. when its right it give it sooo muh more power.

[pr1m021]

why do we need 10 posts before posting in classifieds

[qat727]

why do we need 10 posts before posting in classifieds

It's intended for a variety of purposes. The main one is to eliminate some of the spammers from joining and immediately clogging the classifieds. Thought process being that if someone can make 10 reasonable posts in other areas, they will probably be able to behave in the classifieds.

Ten is low enough that it's reasonable to think that you can build your post count in a fairly short time, and high enough that someone will probably notice if you're being a dumb@ss.

Also, a lot of folks who would have immediately posted in the classifieds and left have ended up sticking around because those 10 posts showed them that NICO is a dang good forum with some pretty nice folks.

[mattv2099]

Is it possible to put a z32 300zx front end on a 240sx? I've searched but found nothing.

Not that I am going to do this. I am just curious and would love to see the results and read a build thread.