I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
BB1LOVIN
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i was thinking the same as well.Would the fitment be flush? Also would i need to change the ecu?


tyler240
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Ok, Im very new to 240's but am in the process of buying one. A 1993 240sx coupe, its a manual and in decent condition but no motor. Will be a new project car for me, and will be doing the SR20DET swap sometime. My questions are:

What would be a resonable price for the car I mentioned with no motor?

How much would a SR20DET swap cost? Id obviously do it myself, but want to know what to expect financially.

This seems like a very good forum/club and I plan to learn alot here.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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BB1LOVIN wrote:i was thinking the same as well.Would the fitment be flush? Also would i need to change the ecu?
Fitment would be flush, and you shouldn't need a new ECU. Auto ECU's don't have a speed limiter BTW.
tyler240 wrote:Ok, Im very new to 240's but am in the process of buying one. A 1993 240sx coupe, its a manual and in decent condition but no motor. Will be a new project car for me, and will be doing the SR20DET swap sometime. My questions are:

What would be a resonable price for the car I mentioned with no motor?

How much would a SR20DET swap cost? Id obviously do it myself, but want to know what to expect financially.

This seems like a very good forum/club and I plan to learn alot here.
If the shell is clean (no rust, good interiour, no leaks, good glass, and if it has a good rear end (some form of limited slip)), you can expect to pay $1000 or maybe more, depending on your area. If the paint sucks, its got some rust, the interior is dirty, etc... you probably want to pay about $500.But it can fluctuate (think about what kind of suspension the shell has, etc).

SR20's can also vary depending on if it as a redtop/black top, S15 SR20, etc.

For a red top, wiring harness, ECU, expect to pay about ~$2000-2500. Make sure you buy from a repuatable source, like a NICO sponsor.

tyler240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Fitment would be flush, and you shouldn't need a new ECU. Auto ECU's don't have a speed limiter BTW.

If the shell is clean (no rust, good interiour, no leaks, good glass, and if it has a good rear end (some form of limited slip)), you can expect to pay $1000 or maybe more, depending on your area. If the paint sucks, its got some rust, the interior is dirty, etc... you probably want to pay about $500.But it can fluctuate (think about what kind of suspension the shell has, etc).

SR20's can also vary depending on if it as a redtop/black top, S15 SR20, etc.

For a red top, wiring harness, ECU, expect to pay about ~$2000-2500. Make sure you buy from a repuatable source, like a NICO sponsor.
Wats the big difference between the red/black top SR20's?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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tyler240 wrote:
Wats the big difference between the red/black top SR20's?
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=277672

Someone should really add that link to the 240 FAQ/Introductions thread.

ballin..
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hey . i am thinking about buying a 240sx.What is the average price of one of these. Not full stock but just a good price for a good enough one to drift in and do abit of street racing without putting anything in it. ??

Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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$100 to about ~$9000

Don't street race. Look what happened to Marty McFly.

ballin..
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alright thanks. well i mean just like little drags with my buddies.

yeah well i still got 1 year till i can drive. im just waitin for the right price and car.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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well, as you can immagine (as with most things), you kinda get what you pay for. You can probably find a beat up old S13 that looks like crap, but runs and drives, that you can drift with (at which point, you won't care if you kiss a wall or whatever, cos the car is already messed up). That would be the $100 scenario.

The $9000 scenario is a semi-nice S14, lightly modded, etc. Just do a little research, and find out your wants and needs.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:The $9000 scenario is a semi-nice S14, lightly modded, etc. Just do a little research, and find out your wants and needs.
dude... for $9k I'd build such a bad asss s13... like the badest one around...

:sigh: one day...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You'd be surprised how fast 9k would dissapear into a 240.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You'd be surprised how fast 9k would dissapear into a 240.
rolling chassis $500z brake + 5 lug swap $600coilovers + misc arms $2500sr front clip $2000used "ballerish" wheels $1700--------------------------------=$7300

that left over $1700 can go to aero/ paint/ bodywork or misc bolt ons for the sr.

Thats how I see it at least.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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don't forget building the motor, for that reliability factor (or the option of going for big power).Paint will suck up a ton of that cashdont forget a limited slip differentialnew clutch

dude, it piles up, and adds up. Don't get me wrong... 9k will get you a sweet ride

TBarry
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i have a quick question about my 1996 240, i need to get a new front bumper and i was wondering if a s14 kouki front bumper would work? i was looking at nismoparts.com and they didn't have a zenki front bumper. just wondering.... i know i would have to get dif. turn signals but is that all i would need?

thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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IIRC, you will need new headlights, a new hood, and new fenders as well.I don't think one component can work without the other, unless it's custom made. (I could be wrong though)

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aformerfriend
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Hey there. Got an '89 240sx stock with SOHCJust a quick question, I have been wondering what I could do to my SO to boost its performance without doing anything drastic.I'm not looking for insane performance or anything.Just to have a bit of power here and there.Any ideas?

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:don't forget building the motor, for that reliability factor (or the option of going for big power).Paint will suck up a ton of that cashdont forget a limited slip differentialnew clutch

dude, it piles up, and adds up. Don't get me wrong... 9k will get you a sweet ride
James... don't you know I got the hook up LOLImma bargain shopper, the stuff I listed I overextimated for ballpark figures, not to mention I've seen pretty dope project cars sell for cheap. Like last month on Zilvia, I saw a rolling chassis forsale, came with 5 lug swap, z brakes, vlsd, gutted, coilovers, and arms for $3.5K. All it was missing was an engine. I can't wait to finish college dude, so I can actually have time to work on a real project, lol
aformerfriend wrote:Hey there. Got an '89 240sx stock with SOHCJust a quick question, I have been wondering what I could do to my SO to boost its performance without doing anything drastic.I'm not looking for insane performance or anything.Just to have a bit of power here and there.Any ideas?
honestly, I'd ditch the sohc and boost a dohc.

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aformerfriend
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What all would be possible to boost a DOHC?And how much would one run for?

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adrianfromthecastle
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aformerfriend wrote:What all would be possible to boost a DOHC?
huh? I don't get what youre asking.
aformerfriend wrote:And how much would one run for?
as far as the engine goes, it really depends on who you know and where you go. I've seen ka24de's sell for $200 to as much as $700 (honestly, I wouldn't pay more than $500 on a ka24de).

As far as the tubo kitting goes, its highly debateable and dependant on what you choose to toss in.

If your serious on boosting a KA, I would recommend lurking /asking around on the turbo KA forums. Those guys know their stuff.

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aformerfriend
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I don't want to buy a KA.I was just wondering if anybody had any ideas on boosting stock motor.

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adrianfromthecastle
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aformerfriend wrote:I don't want to buy a KA.I was just wondering if anybody had any ideas on boosting stock motor.
well, if you do want to boost your sohc, I'd start out by testing it to see if it's boost worthy. Get a compression test and all the necessary precautions. 2nd, turbo manifolds for the sohc aren't gonna be cheap. I don't think chinese companies make any manifolds for the single cam, lol.

what turbo are you planning on using? what's your goals? what's your budget?

these are all things to consider

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aformerfriend
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I just might rebuild my motor so it'll be reliable and ready for the summer.Thanks for input.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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adrians_s13 wrote:what turbo are you planning on using? these are all things to consider
hehe, he doesn't know that, that is why he is here!

Anyway, pleanty of people turbo their SOHC KA's and get decent results. If I were you, I would go with a budget setup. Get a T3 turbo of some sort, a manifold that will fit it, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and a new fuel pump. Set the boost to 7psi, and have fun. Later on down the road (or now, if you have the cash and the know how to do it), you might want to do an intercooler setup.

But, like adrian said, make sure the motor is boost worthy. Is it burning any oil? Do a compression check, make sure they are all within spec, and are close to each other (in relation to compression).

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JULES_S13
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hey ladies and gents i need to change the inner and outer tie rod ends on my s13 i bought all 4 moog parts and all i need to do is install i also have the inner tie rod end tool and the grease gun as instructed that i would need by a friend does any1 have a step by step or a walk through for me?

thanks... jules

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I just did this a couple months ago...

First, you are going to have to either remove the carter pin on the end of the tie rod, or put an impact socket around it, and just spin that ***** right off (quicker, better way).Next, try pounding on the side of the spindle to get the tie rod end out of it. If this doesn't work, try using a rubber mallet on the bottom of the tie rod (pounding it out). Since you have new tie rod ends, you could use a metal hammer here too, but usually you don't do that because it ruins the threads.Next, remove the outer tie rod from the innter tie rod. This is pretty self-explanitory. You will have to remove the boot to get to it.

Lastly, remove the inner tie rod end from the rack and pinion. This was a littly funky for me. There is a weird clamp type thing at the end of that, that I pryed off and removed with a screwdriver. From there, it took a little elbow grease to actually remove the inner tie rod.Install is pretty much reverse of removal. You will have to put that clamp thingy back on, and re-bend the ends to conform to the new inner tie rod.

Like I said... its pretty straight forward. I feel like I forgot to mention something though. Anyway, if you have any questions, or if you get stuck, try and take some pics and post them back up here.

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adrianfromthecastle
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JULES_S13 wrote:hey ladies and gents i need to change the inner and outer tie rod ends on my s13 i bought all 4 moog parts and all i need to do is install i also have the inner tie rod end tool and the grease gun as instructed that i would need by a friend does any1 have a step by step or a walk through for me?

thanks... jules
well, heres a link on how to install aftermarket inner/outer rods

http://splparts.com/doc/SPLTieRodEnd/default.htm

make sure and get an alignment right after installation

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shmex
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Hey what's up. So I just got a 90 fastback and I wanna upgrade the suspension to coilovers...

I was told that I can't just slap the coilovers on so what I'm wonderin is, what are the componenets needed for the coilover swap????

Thanx.

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adrianfromthecastle
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shmex wrote:Hey what's up. So I just got a 90 fastback and I wanna upgrade the suspension to coilovers...

I was told that I can't just slap the coilovers on so what I'm wonderin is, what are the componenets needed for the coilover swap????

Thanx.
well you can if you want...

but if I were you, I'd get rear upper control arms and depending on how low you wanna go, I'd get front inner and outer tie rods (aftermarket ones with the spacers at the outer rod ends) to change your caster and bump steer. When you lower your car, the rear camber dials in and front tow goes out, make sure you get an alignment asap after installation.

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ChickenWyng
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My brother just gave me his '91 240 and I am having idling and starting problems. At first it would start up and run fine but the tachometer would dip down when I was slowing and sometimes cut the car off. I changed the fuel filter and that didn't change anything but now the car won't start at all unless it has sat for a couple of days. I believe I might have to change the fuel pump, but I'm not for sure. If it does sound like the fuel pump, can anybody direct me to a tutorial or video on how to do it? I'm not a grease monkey but I learn fast so I have a feeling I might be able to do this with the proper guidance. Any help would greatly appreciated and thanks.

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shmex
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adrians_s13 wrote:well you can if you want...

but if I were you, I'd get rear upper control arms and depending on how low you wanna go, I'd get front inner and outer tie rods (aftermarket ones with the spacers at the outer rod ends) to change your caster and bump steer. When you lower your car, the rear camber dials in and front tow goes out, make sure you get an alignment asap after installation.
Any suggestions on reliable arma and tie rods???


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