I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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shmex
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adrians_s13 wrote:if you're talking about January 5th and 6th... I might be able to attend... I think I work that weekend
Nooooo!!!!! Dangit. i was lookin forward to meetin ya...hehehe. Dangit. Didnt they change the dates because theyre might be rain??? i dunno i thought i read that somewhere. maybe on ziliva?? i dunno. Anyways hopefully you can attend it...i wanna see you rip it up dude.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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TBarry wrote:sooo when i bought my 1996 240sx, the dash was cracked from the air bag going off on the passenger side, and i got a new one off the guy i bought it from, but im having some troubles with taking the old one out, is there a guild or an easier way to do it? \thanks
I've never had to remove a dash, so I can't really give any specific advice... but maybe there is something in the factory service manual about it? There are probably some diagrams anyway. I posted a link to free downloadable factory service manuals on the previous page of this thread.

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Snott Rocket
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Does anyone know if the plate between the engine and trans on a 5 speed model is absolutely necessary? If so, what exactly does it do? I've been told it's an inspection cover, but in order to even see it you have to split the engine and trans anyway. Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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hmmm, tough question.

It might be some sort of gasket or something so that stuff in there doesn't rust, and water/oil doesn't get on the clutch and cause it to slip. Are you missing yours or something? I would immagine it would work without it, but it is probably there for a reason.

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Snott Rocket
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Yeah, mine's missing. I bought a car that was converted to manual, and I went to put a clutch in it and saw that shield is missing. What you say about it keeping water out makes sense. Looks like I'll be spending some time in the junkyards.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah man, you might want to give a dealership a call and see if they have one. It will save you the time of dropping a transmission in a junkyard anyway. That and they might be able to tell you its exact purpose. Good luck.

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Snott Rocket
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I didn't even think about calling the dealer, thanks!

s14tan
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ENSANE wrote:can someone tell me the difference between the 200sx and the 240
TheGift wrote:40
Zomg thats still funny.

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Snott Rocket
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OK, Nissan refers to the part as "Plate - Engine, Rear". It's also no longer available, and I couldn't find a tech that knew exactly what it does... Oh well.

gordonliu
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I am about to start building my head. the head is for a blacktop sr. my goal with the overall setup will be 300whp. I want good usable torque, and I would prefer to be able to pull this off with the minimal amount of boost necessary to make that much power.

I had heard that by running different duration cams, tuning, exhaust, intake, injectors, turbo, etc that you can make very high (around 260) at the wheel with stock boost (8psi is stock right?)

what camshaft manufacturer and what parameters are advisable for my goal here?

I plan on building the head in general, so what other components are necessary/necessary? If I never plan on drifting and maybe dragging like 2 times a year, do I need solid lifters? (dont want to have to reshim periodically)

any other advice in terms of the headwork I plan on doing or any other tips on how to make nice reliable EFFICIENT numbers (efficient as in boost:hp or other similar figures, not MPG) is greatly appreciated

s14tan
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I got excited when i started reading that but you lost me when you said essar...

smurf13
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ok i have fresh paint and i was wondering if im going to roll my fenders do i need a heat gun to prevent the paint from cracking? thanks in advance

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I wanna say no, but it can't hurt. Why didn't you roll the fenders before said fresh paint?

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kornaz
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Papa, get on AIM NOW!! Lol, sorry, and shmex - no rust on cali cars. I bought mine, 95 240sx, 2nd owner, the car is a NorCal, not a single rust spot. So no worries about rust, lol. We're dry. :D

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kornaz
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smurf13 wrote:ok i have fresh paint and i was wondering if im going to roll my fenders do i need a heat gun to prevent the paint from cracking? thanks in advance
Yes YOU DO. Otherwise it will crack. Most likely. 98%sure. Better be safe than sorry, right? And papasmurf is always right!

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kornaz
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nwmrkt wrote:also other than the model trims are there any differences between the years of the zenki s14? Like electrical, engine things, etc?

Thanks
95 zenkis are OBDI, late 95 (which is considered 96 model) are OBDII. Search for specs.

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shmex
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kornaz wrote:Papa, get on AIM NOW!! Lol, sorry, and shmex - no rust on cali cars. I bought mine, 95 240sx, 2nd owner, the car is a NorCal, not a single rust spot. So no worries about rust, lol. We're dry. :D
Yeah aren't we!!! Hahaha. How bout chassis displacement....I guess you could call it that. When there's rust, is that the only way the chassis bends??? Or becomes unstraight??? Oh and I just gotta wait for some checks to clear in the bank and I'm off to getting the 240. Duce says you guys hang out and ivited me to meet you guys and learn some things....well see you soon. If you wanna hit me up on aim its westlospcr...always on cuz I have a kick. thanx for the info...glad to know were dry...what bout the women thoguh??? Hahaha. Just kiddin.

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kornaz
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shmex wrote:
Yeah aren't we!!! Hahaha. How bout chassis displacement....I guess you could call it that. When there's rust, is that the only way the chassis bends??? Or becomes unstraight??? Oh and I just gotta wait for some checks to clear in the bank and I'm off to getting the 240. Duce says you guys hang out and ivited mNo e to meet you guys and learn some things....well see you soon. If you wanna hit me up on aim its westlospcr...always on cuz I have a kick. thanx for the info...glad to know were dry...what bout the women thoguh??? Hahaha. Just kiddin.
No man. No Cali car has any rust. Even if it's a 89's. Unless it's been parked since then, or like 10 years ago. Or if it came from other state. At least this is my experience. So don't take it for granted, but i haven't seen a single Cali 240 with any rust. ;]

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PapaSmurf2k3
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kornaz wrote:Papa, get on AIM NOW!!
I'm pretty much always on. I might not be at the computer, but its on
kornaz wrote: And papasmurf is always right!
Thats what I try telling people. They are just starting to come around.

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DJButton
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Thats what I try telling people. They are just starting to come around.
The truth is hard to grasp sometimes... especially when it is so unbelievable.

WilkesEP3
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I have a quick question to ask: I am about to purchase a 92' 240sx SE coupe, though the only big problem is a broken odometer. How much do you think this would cost to fix, and what is your general advice? Thank you!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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sounds like you'll have to replace your gauge cluster. That might cost you around $100ish to fix yourself, more if you have someone els do it. My general advice? Leave it alone.

Check the rocker panels and strut towers/wheel wells for rust. How many miles were on the odometer when it broke? How long ago did it break? (basically... do you have any idea how many miles are on the car now?)

WilkesEP3
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So just leave it alone?? He says it broke at around 140,539, and has put no more than 1000 on it since. I am thinking of going with a custom gauge dash at some point anyways, and I guess you don't have an odometer then either...but I will be checking out the car next week. So aside from strut tower/wheel well rust, what else should I be checking for? (something about engine guides was in the newbie section?)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Timing chain guides. Chances are they are making some noise (with 140k on it). Timing chains are a pretty expensive job to do, it will sound kinda like a rattling spray can upon startup. You could remove the upper guide with no ill effects (to get rid of the noise). Supposodly, the chain system is supposed to last the life of the car.

Other general things to watch out for when buying a car:Before you start it up/take it out, pop the hood and feel to make sure the dude didn't have the car running and all warmed up before hand. In most cases, cars run better when they are warm, so some people do this to make the car seem better than it is. If it is his daily, this might be unavoidable, (as in, it will be warm, but he didn't do it intentionally). If he seems like a shady dude, ask if you can come back and start it up after it has been cold.

Have someone look at the motor when you are starting the car. If the motor shakes excessively upon startup, it probably means bad motor mounts.

If possible, also see if someone can stand at the back and check for blue smoke upon startup. This would mean that it is burning oil (either leaking head gasket, or leaky valves, whatever. If it blows blue smoke while you are driving, it means worn piston rings).

If the car has HICAS (Nissan's 4 wheel steering) it has a limited slip differential. Another way to check this is to see if the diff cover has an orange sticker on it.

Don't be afraid to crawl under the car and check for rust anywhere and everywhere (floorboards and everything). Good luck man!

gordonliu
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are there any GOOD wiring walk throughs for the s13 sr20 - s13 chassis swap?

yeah frsport and heavythrottle bla bla bla. they dont even mention the lower harness.

I mean are there any walk throughs that have pictures of the connections on the motor and chassis?

any place that spells out exactly what to do for the transmission plugs and what to do for the SOHC?

the information is very disjointed and unclear on the lower harness.

JDM-Silvia
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Nevermind, got it undone
Modified by JDM-Silvia at 11:42 AM 12/30/2007

nwmrkt
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Hey another question, im looking at a s14 (auto) and i would be looking to do a manual swap...no im a really anal guy so this is a really simple answer, its just something to give me closure haha. Are there any cons to doing to manual swap? The car will behave as normal? There is no cutting that will affect the rigidity or anything of the sort?

Thanks!

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adrianfromthecastle
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nwmrkt wrote:Hey another question, im looking at a s14 (auto) and i would be looking to do a manual swap...no im a really anal guy so this is a really simple answer, its just something to give me closure haha. Are there any cons to doing to manual swap? The car will behave as normal? There is no cutting that will affect the rigidity or anything of the sort?

Thanks!
LOL you'll be fine.

I'd actually recommend getting autos for older cars, then swap to manual. The engines are generally "less abused"

nwmrkt
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adrians_s13 wrote:LOL you'll be fine.

I'd actually recommend getting autos for older cars, then swap to manual. The engines are generally "less abused"
lol thanks man, i know its a easy question its just im super anal and need closure haha.

WilkesEP3
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Thank you very much for the response! Yea, hopefully I can pick up the car next week!


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