Thats what i hear , but with the press and everything we got at the shop it wont be that bad. But there are always gonna be hang ups. Just like when we put that diff in the other night. This one driveshaft bolt took us 20 minutes to get loose.cracker wrote:Good luck with that bushing install. I did that on my S13, and it was a HUGE PITA.
NSX's arnt much to worry about on track, usually for the time attack tuff they have TT some fancy suspension and aero, but no decent drivers.cole_bie wrote:Check out the JIC silvia, if it can set lap records against things like the nsx, then their setup must not be to bad
You dont need coilovers to road race , and "stiff" is hardly ever the best way go. Research for a nice spring/shock combo.jt15833 wrote:what kind of recomendations do you guys have as far as coilovers? With alot of 240's being geared towards drift it seems stiff coilovers are desirable. Is this the same with roadracing? some of the brands im looking at
SPL KTSSilkroadBuddy clubPart shop maxStance
Thanks!
Strut bars explained (video)jt15833 wrote:also the whole large front sway vs stock/none rear sway bar, im assuming this doesnt apply to the rear strut bar? Since it has nothing to do with the wheels?
Slappy wrote: Research for a nice spring/shock combo.
it's a track car and will probably see a fair amount of street before it is completely done. yea, i was thinking 17"s as well, but i want something that is going to look nice too. i'm going for a set of deep dish wheels. and yes, i've been looking for used ones.cracker wrote:What are you setting the car up for?
Are the wheels for street tires or R-comps?Are they going to be your DD wheels?18's are HEAVY, Is there a specific tire you want and they only come in the size you need in an 18?
Is this a street car that might see some track time or a track car that might see some street time?
I would probably say go with 16's or 17's. They are usally lighter, which means lower rotating mass and unsprung weight as well as better braking and acceleration. And tires are cheaper as well.
Might try and find some wheels used on the cheap. I bought my "race" wheels for $200.00 for all four, and they had tires on them, they were complety heat cycled out, but they were able to be driven on.
yes. yes, i think you could be right :\i guess i'll be lookin for a set of steelies after all.cracker wrote:Sounds like maybe you need a set of street wheels and a set of race wheels to me.
If you are just starting out --buy some decent high performance street tires until you get addicted. You will learn more sliding around on street tires than R compounds.Touge’ wrote:
and i'm not gonna lie, i have no track time whatsoever. i got this car as a way for me to start getting into some scca events and eventually TA if i can find any events around here. sooo..... any support/help/whatever would be appreciatedThanks!
yea i think that would be a good idea.where might i be able to find a "rule book" for time attack, auto x, scca.. all that jazz??91rs13 wrote:
If you are just starting out --buy some decent high performance street tires until you get addicted. You will learn more sliding around on street tires than R compounds.
I would have a spare wheel and tire or 2 though.
You might also consider what classes you want to run in AutoX and or Time Attack/time trials --there are limitations depending on what club(s) you run with.
also in the NortheastTouge’ wrote:
yea i think that would be a good idea.where might i be able to find a "rule book" for time attack, auto x, scca.. all that jazz??