1992Q45A.....how does your Stillen exhaust sound???
also many areas have 2 year emission stickers which helps when considering getting rid of the CAT's so only every 2 years do you need to put back on the CAT's. Depending on overall HP & 1/4 times...I might somehow put back on the CAT's, but I know it will be difficult to use 1 aftermarket CAT vs. 2 OEM CAT's.
Headers, O2 sensors, JWT ECU, & air/fuel ratio question
Dead silent at idle, with a throaty roar at wide open throttle.
Rob: btw, thanks a mil for that link. Not only was I able to get the front bumper cover, I got the grill part and the emblem.. Basically my front end is going from ghetto fabulous racer, to clean sleek street car... Oh yea and 4 window regulators.. all for 300 shipped
When I get the brakes on it, I'll take a vid, and we can compare sounds...
I want to go with the new exhaust, simply because of the gutted cats.. I don't know how much of a difference it will make, but on the F50 it's quite a bit.. The Mid east F50 pumpts out 360 hp, due to lesser emissions requirements.. So I'm hoping for maybe 5-10 additional HP with the gutted cats..
Can't wait to see your dyno.. Man the waiting and expense on these cars is unreal..
Rob: btw, thanks a mil for that link. Not only was I able to get the front bumper cover, I got the grill part and the emblem.. Basically my front end is going from ghetto fabulous racer, to clean sleek street car... Oh yea and 4 window regulators.. all for 300 shipped
When I get the brakes on it, I'll take a vid, and we can compare sounds...
I want to go with the new exhaust, simply because of the gutted cats.. I don't know how much of a difference it will make, but on the F50 it's quite a bit.. The Mid east F50 pumpts out 360 hp, due to lesser emissions requirements.. So I'm hoping for maybe 5-10 additional HP with the gutted cats..
Can't wait to see your dyno.. Man the waiting and expense on these cars is unreal..
your exhaust sounds just like my exhaust....you can't hear it inside the car at idle and at cruising 60mph there is just a very faint hint of the exhaust....but at WOT....it sounds like the biggest can of Whoop A$$ that you have ever heard. For some reason...I like the raspy crackling sound after the headers were added. I get the crackling sound after I left off the gas from a WOT run.
regarding the ebay link...congrats on getting all the parts you need. My first item I ever bought off of ebay was the differential core back in February and since then I have bought several other items....ebay is good.
regarding the ebay link...congrats on getting all the parts you need. My first item I ever bought off of ebay was the differential core back in February and since then I have bought several other items....ebay is good.
Ahhh....I must say the silence is bliss....no more damn 747's sounds coming from my car.
Okay....here is the kicker as this one had just about everyone fooled here on the board. I did have a 4.08 gear installed. We did the driveshaft/wheel turn test and it came out eactly 4:1.....4 turns of the driveshaft equal 1 turn of the wheels. Unbelievable...the wheel spin acceleration off the line is exactly the same right at about 1 solid revolution and nothing more and nothing less than it had before/with/after the 4.08. I can't figure it out if everyone else is having wheel spin issues with stock tires or upgraded tires with a 4.08 from a dead stop why I am not experiencing anything different. I can feel difference in acceleration but now it comes down to the extra shift in the 1/4 for those pluses/minuses of the 4.08 or no 4.08. The car still overall accelerates good, but how good is difficult to judge until I get to the 1/4 track again.
Dyno results did not happen as they were testing and tuning some fast & furious RX7 thingy forever and at 6pm I had some HappyHour drinks to catch up on.
Now the real mind teaser is why my trap speed was so low at only 93mph with the 4.08. I would have thought that the 4.08 would have given me a higher trap speed.
Either way....it is good to have the car back and not sounding like a 747. Maybe I will go with a 4.36 rearend instead of a 4.08 since the increase in rpms was not really all that noticeable loud or different.
From the confusion of the 4.08 and my frustrations...I totally forgot to ask about the EGR thing. I will check out my car later this weekend to see if it is hooked up.
Okay....here is the kicker as this one had just about everyone fooled here on the board. I did have a 4.08 gear installed. We did the driveshaft/wheel turn test and it came out eactly 4:1.....4 turns of the driveshaft equal 1 turn of the wheels. Unbelievable...the wheel spin acceleration off the line is exactly the same right at about 1 solid revolution and nothing more and nothing less than it had before/with/after the 4.08. I can't figure it out if everyone else is having wheel spin issues with stock tires or upgraded tires with a 4.08 from a dead stop why I am not experiencing anything different. I can feel difference in acceleration but now it comes down to the extra shift in the 1/4 for those pluses/minuses of the 4.08 or no 4.08. The car still overall accelerates good, but how good is difficult to judge until I get to the 1/4 track again.
Dyno results did not happen as they were testing and tuning some fast & furious RX7 thingy forever and at 6pm I had some HappyHour drinks to catch up on.
Now the real mind teaser is why my trap speed was so low at only 93mph with the 4.08. I would have thought that the 4.08 would have given me a higher trap speed.
Either way....it is good to have the car back and not sounding like a 747. Maybe I will go with a 4.36 rearend instead of a 4.08 since the increase in rpms was not really all that noticeable loud or different.
From the confusion of the 4.08 and my frustrations...I totally forgot to ask about the EGR thing. I will check out my car later this weekend to see if it is hooked up.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
4.36 is a GOOD ratio to match the 2.784 [1st gear] in 90-93 transmission 4.36 x 2.784= 12.1385 vs oem 9.85. It multiplies torque by 36.5%.........yielding ~~1820/10 mph or a 6500 rpm shift at 35-36 mph............2nd gear at 6500~~=64 mph BUT 3rd gear ~~= 655/10mph or 97.7 mph @6550 rpm.
The 2004 M45 and Q45 have a combined 1st gear ratio of 11.1, however 2nd gear [1.544 x 4.36=6.73] would br 5% higher.
So a 4.36 +JWT 90 Q might be 2% quicker to 30 but 2% slower from 30-63 mph. Then 2% slower to 100 mph
3rd gear 4.36 x 1.0= 4.36 .........vs 1.471 x 3.133= 4.61
The 2004 M45 and Q45 have a combined 1st gear ratio of 11.1, however 2nd gear [1.544 x 4.36=6.73] would br 5% higher.
So a 4.36 +JWT 90 Q might be 2% quicker to 30 but 2% slower from 30-63 mph. Then 2% slower to 100 mph
3rd gear 4.36 x 1.0= 4.36 .........vs 1.471 x 3.133= 4.61
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AZhitman
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There will be 2 Q's with 4.36's, as mine whines (although not as bad as Rob's).
We talked today about having them both done... My ECU should be here in 2-3 weeks, and I'll be doing the catback as well.
No need to gut the stock cats as we now have test pipes which eliminate all 4 cats - for those of you using your car "FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY".
We talked today about having them both done... My ECU should be here in 2-3 weeks, and I'll be doing the catback as well.
No need to gut the stock cats as we now have test pipes which eliminate all 4 cats - for those of you using your car "FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY".
okay guys....I am currently scanning in a ton of time slips...just call me "time slip junkie" as I could not take it any longer and drove 90 miles North to the track again for some more 1/4 ET's and now we have a real comparison between a 4.08 and a 3.54.
The good news...I guess is that my gas mileage on the way back cruising at 90mph with only 2-3 WOT runs was 19.5mpg. The bad news is the bastards did cut my EGR line and now my car really smells like rotten eggs. It never did until tonight on the way up there and I got the check engine light. How hard would it be for them to re-hook up the EGR line? Is the EGR line just a tube that somehow sucks some exhaust emissisons back into the engine and can they easily cut and well this connection onto the header? I have got to get rid of that smell....no girl in there right mind will ride in my car with it stinking like a damn rotten egg.
I will post the time slips in a new thread.
I am seriously thinking about a 4.36 gear, but will need to evaluate a few more things first.
The good news...I guess is that my gas mileage on the way back cruising at 90mph with only 2-3 WOT runs was 19.5mpg. The bad news is the bastards did cut my EGR line and now my car really smells like rotten eggs. It never did until tonight on the way up there and I got the check engine light. How hard would it be for them to re-hook up the EGR line? Is the EGR line just a tube that somehow sucks some exhaust emissisons back into the engine and can they easily cut and well this connection onto the header? I have got to get rid of that smell....no girl in there right mind will ride in my car with it stinking like a damn rotten egg.
I will post the time slips in a new thread.
I am seriously thinking about a 4.36 gear, but will need to evaluate a few more things first.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Unfortunately to make the EGR work you must have back pressure in the form of the precat, however the JDM engines oem exhaust have the EGR tube connected in the normal place and the back pressure is created by the main cat.......because they have no precats.The cruise vacuum will suck the exhaust in...........just amount will vary from oem design.I suspect they are using different software to hold the valve open longer /more frequently [the egr valve is pulsed by ecu thru a solenoid [controlling vacuum].
Something is better than nothing to keep the engine from melting.
The Sulfur is from the fuel [excess] has no where to burn [no cats to react in].............find better low sulfur fuel.
Double triple check the O2 for brand newness.......that is all that stands between you and very very lean [at cruise] conditions.
OFF ROAD HEADERS MEANS OFF ROAD no highway cruising allowed.
Lack of emission testing/regs in FLA means they dump all the bad gas there........remember the gas from a month ago eating the fuel senders - high sulfur reacting with silver contacts.Since the winds blow all the pollution out to sea and its flat.
The only solution maybe to revert to oem cats or install just cats no precats because eventually the cats will heat up on the highway and start working ----- SOME.
Even the M45 transmission/diff gear is being redesigned to better match the V8..........I am optimistic that they will get to a 100 mph quarter mile [on a perfect day].
Something is better than nothing to keep the engine from melting.
The Sulfur is from the fuel [excess] has no where to burn [no cats to react in].............find better low sulfur fuel.
Double triple check the O2 for brand newness.......that is all that stands between you and very very lean [at cruise] conditions.
OFF ROAD HEADERS MEANS OFF ROAD no highway cruising allowed.
Lack of emission testing/regs in FLA means they dump all the bad gas there........remember the gas from a month ago eating the fuel senders - high sulfur reacting with silver contacts.Since the winds blow all the pollution out to sea and its flat.
The only solution maybe to revert to oem cats or install just cats no precats because eventually the cats will heat up on the highway and start working ----- SOME.
Even the M45 transmission/diff gear is being redesigned to better match the V8..........I am optimistic that they will get to a 100 mph quarter mile [on a perfect day].
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HeavyDuty
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95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
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Rob,
The EGR bung is just that, basically a nut that would need to be welded to the system, but as Tech said, it needs pressure, on my 88 5.0 coupe, it was installed on the pass side after the precats. It's a very specific thread, though, you need the original one from your pipes, or from a junkyard, or, you might try HotShot.com, IF they'll sell you one.
You could fashion a similar setup on yours by installing two Random Technology *METAL CORE* cats as close to the head pipe (collector) as you can, then weld a bung and try to use sections of the old EGR tube at the valve & on the pipe, using flexible tubing (they make special heat resistant stuff just for that) in between. You won't notice any loss in power with the Metal Core cats & might pick up a little torque.
Don't have them attach the EGR tube back where it was. And don't bother trying to bend it to fit elsewhere. It's stainless & almost impossible to bend.
Even if you're working with a stock manifold & unmolested valve locations, it's tough to get that tube on sometimes.
I still think in order for the 4.08 to get a fair shake, you'd need the correct speedo gear in there.
As long as we (you) are doing mega buck mods, and you now have an opportunity to do whatever gear you want, consider an even taller gear & a GearVendors.com under/overdrive.
It allows for automatic engaging of an underdrive, then overdrive ratios to give you 8 forward gears from a 4 spd transmission. And they're rated to some ungodly hp, like 1400+!!
I believe it would drop your cruising rpm's 25% in 4th with the overdrive engaged......soo.....go ahead & install a 4.xx or 5.xx rear if available, then enjoy a nice low cruising rpm for highway drives.
(I say highway speeds because unless you're in a traffic jam, you're at least driving 60mph in So Fla.)
I'm in the middle of installing one on a big block 72 Buick. It turned 3000rpm @ 60 in 3rd (final gear in a TH400) with a 3.73 final drive, now it's expected to turn 2250 at 60.
I hope my underdrive % figures are right, check the site, sorry, gotta run.
The EGR bung is just that, basically a nut that would need to be welded to the system, but as Tech said, it needs pressure, on my 88 5.0 coupe, it was installed on the pass side after the precats. It's a very specific thread, though, you need the original one from your pipes, or from a junkyard, or, you might try HotShot.com, IF they'll sell you one.
You could fashion a similar setup on yours by installing two Random Technology *METAL CORE* cats as close to the head pipe (collector) as you can, then weld a bung and try to use sections of the old EGR tube at the valve & on the pipe, using flexible tubing (they make special heat resistant stuff just for that) in between. You won't notice any loss in power with the Metal Core cats & might pick up a little torque.
Don't have them attach the EGR tube back where it was. And don't bother trying to bend it to fit elsewhere. It's stainless & almost impossible to bend.
Even if you're working with a stock manifold & unmolested valve locations, it's tough to get that tube on sometimes.
I still think in order for the 4.08 to get a fair shake, you'd need the correct speedo gear in there.
As long as we (you) are doing mega buck mods, and you now have an opportunity to do whatever gear you want, consider an even taller gear & a GearVendors.com under/overdrive.
It allows for automatic engaging of an underdrive, then overdrive ratios to give you 8 forward gears from a 4 spd transmission. And they're rated to some ungodly hp, like 1400+!!
I believe it would drop your cruising rpm's 25% in 4th with the overdrive engaged......soo.....go ahead & install a 4.xx or 5.xx rear if available, then enjoy a nice low cruising rpm for highway drives.
(I say highway speeds because unless you're in a traffic jam, you're at least driving 60mph in So Fla.)
I'm in the middle of installing one on a big block 72 Buick. It turned 3000rpm @ 60 in 3rd (final gear in a TH400) with a 3.73 final drive, now it's expected to turn 2250 at 60.
I hope my underdrive % figures are right, check the site, sorry, gotta run.
Quote »Even the M45 transmission/diff gear is being redesigned to better match the V8..........I am optimistic that they will get to a 100 mph quarter mile [on a perfect day].[/quote]
Ah, so that is what they meant. They keep mentioning something about the transmission being reworked at the infiniti site, but it's still a 5 speed.
Finally the 100 traps the VK deserves
Ah, so that is what they meant. They keep mentioning something about the transmission being reworked at the infiniti site, but it's still a 5 speed.
Finally the 100 traps the VK deserves
thanks all for your help on this EGR thingy....
So what you are saying is that I can have some sort of flexible metal tube attached from the exhaust to the EGR selenoid? I am planning to add some good aftermarket CAT's *metal* that will hopefully create just enough back pressure while helping to protect my nose and the environment. I don't mind losing a little HP as now the car really runs so 0.1secs I can live with.
I will ask them about hooking up and welding a flexible hose from the EGR to the exhaust.
Wes...if the EGR thingy is what causes the smell....dude you need to get that fixed as no girl that I know of will put up with that smell. I could smell it all over my car and also somehow the smell was getting into my car cruising at 80mph. I needed to open the windows several times to get the smell out before I tossed my cookies. Damn....that shiet stinks.
So what you are saying is that I can have some sort of flexible metal tube attached from the exhaust to the EGR selenoid? I am planning to add some good aftermarket CAT's *metal* that will hopefully create just enough back pressure while helping to protect my nose and the environment. I don't mind losing a little HP as now the car really runs so 0.1secs I can live with.
I will ask them about hooking up and welding a flexible hose from the EGR to the exhaust.
Wes...if the EGR thingy is what causes the smell....dude you need to get that fixed as no girl that I know of will put up with that smell. I could smell it all over my car and also somehow the smell was getting into my car cruising at 80mph. I needed to open the windows several times to get the smell out before I tossed my cookies. Damn....that shiet stinks.
I think that we can say from Q45tech's evaluations and my real world experiences...the move to a higher gear (4.08) will reduce your trap speeds in the 1/4 mile by 3mph (96 vs. 93) with a 4.08, but the ET's differences even with the extra shift are really not significant 0.1secs or less..just look at my time comparisons and given my different launch techniques (tire burnout) I would say that the runs with and without a 4.08 are really equal ET's.
So the question is do you want to sacrifice about 3mph in 1/4 mile trap speeds for a little more fun on street stoplight races?
The 4.08 or maybe a 4.36 will add a huge plus in my book for street racing fun factor. There are not many streets where I would or could race the 1/4 mile on public roads...but for around town stop light to stop light and some freeway races...the 4.08 IMO is a definite must.
Just try telling the guy in the other car who beat you barely in the stoplight to stoplight race that you would take him in the 1/4 mile. Most street racers would probably have no idea what you are talking about and regardless....he still just beat you which is something that can't be denied. The 4.08 will help even out the odds in these type of races.
So the question is do you want to sacrifice about 3mph in 1/4 mile trap speeds for a little more fun on street stoplight races?
The 4.08 or maybe a 4.36 will add a huge plus in my book for street racing fun factor. There are not many streets where I would or could race the 1/4 mile on public roads...but for around town stop light to stop light and some freeway races...the 4.08 IMO is a definite must.
Just try telling the guy in the other car who beat you barely in the stoplight to stoplight race that you would take him in the 1/4 mile. Most street racers would probably have no idea what you are talking about and regardless....he still just beat you which is something that can't be denied. The 4.08 will help even out the odds in these type of races.
I went from lusting after the 4.08..
Now I am hating..
I have no idea what is in my car as well. Kryder said they swapped it in some race, and put back the original diff... Of course there recollections from 10 years could be off, as they couldn't find the spare diff.. I have no idea what is in my car
I hope this automobile mag article has 1/4 mile times. It can shed some light on this issue. I don't remember it lowering traps this much, 3+ is way too much for my personal tastes..
High end power one me so many freeway races against high 90 trap cars back in the day.. I wouldn't trade that for the world!
Now I am hating..
I have no idea what is in my car as well. Kryder said they swapped it in some race, and put back the original diff... Of course there recollections from 10 years could be off, as they couldn't find the spare diff.. I have no idea what is in my car
I hope this automobile mag article has 1/4 mile times. It can shed some light on this issue. I don't remember it lowering traps this much, 3+ is way too much for my personal tastes..
High end power one me so many freeway races against high 90 trap cars back in the day.. I wouldn't trade that for the world!
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Q45tech
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- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
I warned them* in 2002 when I first saw the transmission ratios and diff gear ratio. The transmission was not designed as a ultimate drag racer but to provide economy mix for a V6. They jury rigged a suboptimal change by going from the 2.764 to the 3.133 diff in 2003 but it still didn't help that much with acceleration and hurt fuel mileage significantly! The FX45 has the same transmission but an More OPTIMAL 3.69 DIFF GEAR but mpg sucks because of the high cruise rpm even with big tires. EFFECTIVE 5th gear ratio with 30" tires is 2.7 vs 2.45 of the 90-96 Q....................200 rpm more than necessary a 10% mileage hit on highway cruise but the extra 400 pounds and losses from 4 wheel drive.
"The 5-speed [Q45] automatic, with its increased number of gear ratios, provides better acceleration and fuel mileage. Additionally, the new transmission is almost 50 pounds lighter than the 4-speed transmission it replaces." .........they were comparing it to 97-01 Q.
http://www.audiworld.com/news/00/zf/content.shtml
In the above note the gear span [6.0] vs the RE4R03A [2.784/0.694=4.01] vs the RE5 [3.54/0.834=4.25]........AT least the LS430 has a 4.5.
You would think the engineers don't talk to each other. Even I know you need a 5.3 span [or greater] to maximize acceleration while maximizing fuel economy. A 13:1 - 1st gear and a 2.45 top gear assumming a 2000 rpm 60 mph and 26" unloaded tires.
They must have been a sleep in class when that was discussed.
"Ratio span is the mathematical difference between the highest top gear and the lowest low gear. A wide span offers both a strong low gear for acceleration and an economical high gear for highway cruising.
The new CVT and 6-speed transmissions that Ford is developing allow a 6:1 ratio span - compared with about 4:1 in a 4-speed transmission. The result is strong acceleration from a dead stop, and good fuel economy."
"The 5-speed [Q45] automatic, with its increased number of gear ratios, provides better acceleration and fuel mileage. Additionally, the new transmission is almost 50 pounds lighter than the 4-speed transmission it replaces." .........they were comparing it to 97-01 Q.
http://www.audiworld.com/news/00/zf/content.shtml
In the above note the gear span [6.0] vs the RE4R03A [2.784/0.694=4.01] vs the RE5 [3.54/0.834=4.25]........AT least the LS430 has a 4.5.
You would think the engineers don't talk to each other. Even I know you need a 5.3 span [or greater] to maximize acceleration while maximizing fuel economy. A 13:1 - 1st gear and a 2.45 top gear assumming a 2000 rpm 60 mph and 26" unloaded tires.
They must have been a sleep in class when that was discussed.
"Ratio span is the mathematical difference between the highest top gear and the lowest low gear. A wide span offers both a strong low gear for acceleration and an economical high gear for highway cruising.
The new CVT and 6-speed transmissions that Ford is developing allow a 6:1 ratio span - compared with about 4:1 in a 4-speed transmission. The result is strong acceleration from a dead stop, and good fuel economy."
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Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
http://www.mbspy.com/7g.htm
4.38:1 first gear ratio, 2.86:1 second gear ratio, 1.92:1 third gear ratio, 1.37:1 fourth gear ratio, 1:1 fifth gear ratio, 0.82:1 sixth gear ratio and 3.41:1 reverse gear ratio
The 6 speed AT has a 5.34 span ratio with a 3.00 dif it would be 13:1 in 1st gear and 2.46:1 in 6th...........that German wasn't asleep.
4.38:1 first gear ratio, 2.86:1 second gear ratio, 1.92:1 third gear ratio, 1.37:1 fourth gear ratio, 1:1 fifth gear ratio, 0.82:1 sixth gear ratio and 3.41:1 reverse gear ratio
The 6 speed AT has a 5.34 span ratio with a 3.00 dif it would be 13:1 in 1st gear and 2.46:1 in 6th...........that German wasn't asleep.