Got oil changed today...

[qship96]

I took a sample and will post results in about a week when I get them back from Blackstone for you all--Redline 10w-40 and 60u00 filter in use 97 days and 7103 miles.I am interested in the results as I normally do 4500-6000 max on the 90 day intervals.Replaced with Redline 10w-30 for the Fall quarter and then will go to 5w-30 for Winter as usual.

[Haitian_King]

Wait. You can't use the same oil grade year round? I just got my oil changed like 3 weeks ago. I have to change again at 90K. Should I switch to the 5w-30? What's the difference.

[96Qowner]

Here are some old oil threads:

zerothread?id=102133

zerothread?id=105012

zerothread?id=104103

zerothread?id=131359

[StarPD]

I took a sample and will post results in about a week when I get them back from Blackstone for you all--Redline 10w-40 and 60u00 filter in use 97 days and 7103 miles.I am interested in the results as I normally do 4500-6000 max on the 90 day intervals.Replaced with Redline 10w-30 for the Fall quarter and then will go to 5w-30 for Winter as usual.

One oil analysis is only to establish a baseline. Barring extreme condtions, like a wiped bearing, a single analysis won't tell you much.You have to do regular analyses to get a trend over time to monitor engine wear. If Blackstone is like the oil analysis outfits I've dealt with, they will add your current sample to all prevoius ones into a chart, so you can track the amount of the different particles present in your oil. FWIW, oil samples need to be taken with the oil hot, at full operating temp, and you need to NOT take the sample from the first relase if you are taking it when you change oil. Instead, let some come out before you obtain the sample. This doesn't apply if you are suctioning the oil sample out, except that you still need to make sure the oil temp is hot, (like after driving 20 minutes).

Also, be advised that different oils have different amounts and kinds of metal in them for performance (of the oil) reasons. If you change brands or kinds of oil, (like going from regular Mobil conventional to Mobil 1, or changing from Mobil 1 to Redline) you have to start your charts all over again. Oil weight doesn't make a difference though, so you can shift from summer to winter weights if you want and continue your chart, as long as you are still using the same brand and type of oil.

Don't be shocked if you see large amounts of metals in your oil. Some mmanufacturers use metals in their oil to protect vulnerable components. If that happens, check with Blackstone. They are probably familiar with the additives and metals each oil company uses in their different oils. One way to assure you of what's standard for your oil is to submit a sample of fresh clean unuied oil to use as a true baseline. Then you can REALLY tell how your oil, and you engine, are performing and wearing.

One final tip. Watch for the silicon content. It's dirt. If there's a significant amount, it means you are either ingesting dirt from somewhere, or your oil filer isn't doing its job. There will be SOME silicon, but it shouldn't be much. Again, Blackstone can advise you of what's too high.

Keep us posted, okay?

Good luck.

[Haitian_King]

I was looking for the short answer, but what the hey.

[96Qowner]

[qship96]

George,well aware of your points made in your post,I have done numerous analysis on the Q-all from Blackstone and some interpreted by Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis

[StarPD]

George,well aware of your points made in your post,I have done numerous analysis on the Q-all from Blackstone and some interpreted by Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis

Cool.Glad you have it covered.Others may not be aware of some of these things though. Usually, when I post things like this, they're intended for more than the direct recipient. I know I learn things from posts made to others, so I hope my posts help everyone else too.

I never intend to be talking down to anyone, but we must remember that everyone else doesn't know things that we might ourselves. That's one of the things that makes this such a great place. There is such a wealth of information, always helpful to newbies and neophytes, but also to more experienced guys. Not too many guys know EVERYTHING, and we can all learn something. I try to do that every day, and I also try to share what I've learned with others. I think that's pretty much the reason for the forum in the first place.

Take care.

[qship96]

Good point George! all is good. Have you been doing oil analysis as well? I do them about 2x/year somewhat addicting! I have recently bought 6 cans of BG 44k for a great price but have not used any yet as they tend to skew the analysis results!

[StarPD]

Good point George! all is good. Have you been doing oil analysis as well? I do them about 2x/year somewhat addicting! I have recently bought 6 cans of BG 44k for a great price but have not used any yet as they tend to skew the analysis results!

No oil analysis any more. I used to be a fanatic about it on my Suzuki GS1100s and 1150s, and my ZX 11 Ninjas. In fact, I got an oil analysis every time I changed the oil at 3,000 miles. Based on my experience with my '94 Q45t and my recently new to me '05 Q45, I don't figure I need it. The '94 at 105k didn't use a drop of oil, it looked clean at every OCI (3000 miles) and got 19-20 mpg city and over 26 mpg highway. The '05 uses about a quart every 7,000 miles, which is pretty good for a VK45 (which are noted for high oil consumption due to the re-designed and thinner rings), and I get around 18 to 19 mpg city and 24 to 25 mpg highway. Oil at OCI of 3,000 miles looks almost like it did when it went in. Plus, I have an 84 month 100,000 mile extended warranty on the '05.

I used nothing but M1 in the '94, M1 EP in the '05.

That being said, I highly recommend oil analysis for anyone that has even the slightest suspicion of engine problems of any kind, or has bought a used Q that may not have had proper maintenance. It's the best way to know for sure how your engine is wearing, and what may be causing any excessive wear.