Got my Oil Analysis results

[Falkdesigns]

I'll attach a scan. Looks pretty good! 8k miles on oil, "suitable for continued use". Viscosity number is comprable to new Amsoil synthetic, and the TBN number is still quite high (the woman there said thier TBN is usually a little lower than other places). Once again, Amsoil impresses me. I've got Redline in there now, and since I don't really pay for it, I'll change it again after 6 months and send a sample of it. The woman I spoke with told me I sould have left the Amsoil in the car as it was still in exceptional condition, and for my car having 88k the numbers are great. My dad just bought a Porsche Boxster, the dealer told him they ONLY change the oil at 1 year or 15k, and that Porsche would NEVER recomend that if there would be problems from it. But those of you compelled to change synthetic oil at 3k can continue to waste your money.

[PalmerWMD]

TBN is still acceptable IMO has some reserve left but not gobs of reserve.

The oil thicked up to a 40 weight though.Tells me some oxidation of the base oil has been taking place.

Overall a very good result. lots of ZDDP left too ( AMSOIL kick a$$ in that dept even though its costs them their API certification).

Did you do mostly highway?

Fred..

[qship96]

Iron,lead,and copper are slightly elevated compared to my results with mobil 1 on a PPM/mile scale,tbn looks good for 8,000 miles-silicon{dirt} looks good-are you using factory air/oil filters?I wonder if some of the differences are due to any differences in the 4.1 to 4.5 liter versions?overall seems to be a good result.I am going to get another analysis on this batch of mobil,then refill with redline once again to compare the 2 oils-my gut so far tells me the mobil performs equal to the redline if not better{as far as tests show}for 5-6000 mile changes.some feel redline protects better,even though its wear numbers are elevated in tests.

[PalmerWMD]

Iron,lead,and copper are slightly elevated compared to my results with mobil 1 on a PPM/mile scale,tbn looks good for 8,000 miles-silicon{dirt} looks good-are you using factory air/oil filters?I wonder if some of the differences are due to any differences in the 4.1 to 4.5 liter versions?overall seems to be a good result.I am going to get another analysis on this batch of mobil,then refill with redline once again to compare the 2 oils-my gut so far tells me the mobil performs equal to the redline if not better{as far as tests show}for 5-6000 mile changes.some feel redline protects better,even though its wear numbers are elevated in tests.

redline always seems to show elevated Iron levels.Some say Redline uses a mineral additive that has iron in it but teh formulation ius poropritory.

Still its hard to tell what that elevated iron in Redline analyses comes from...

Even so redline is incredible robust and resistant to oxidation, IMO to a greater extent than M1 or MSOIL

[Jeff Williams]

I want to send my oil out for analysis. I should ahve sent out the first batch. It is about time to change the oil. I bought the Amsoil 7,500 mile synthetic. It has been close to that.

Is this a great company to usefor teh analysis? Anubody got another one they prefer?

[PalmerWMD]

Oil Analysers is one of the big 2 companies.Then there is also Blackstone which I think is slightly cheaper but they dont include one of the values as standard I think it was TBN.

Fred..

[qship96]

Fred, what is strange to me,also a big fan of the chemistry used in redline oil,is that my last analysis of both showed better numbers for mobil over redline,and these were back to back,similar driving style and OCI.metal numbers,across the board were lower with mobil,tbn was stronger,and strangely,redline thickened out of grade where the mobil didnt-more testing to be done!

[qship96]

I have always used Blackstone,and for the sake of consistancy,will continue-TBN test is a 10.00 add on to the 20.00 standard test.my concern with Oil Analyzers is that i believe they are not independant of Amsoil corporation-there is some tie in i believe-fear of biased reports or paranoia?

[PalmerWMD]

I want to see someone run the new Belgian castrol Syntec 5w-40.

After Castrol fixed its 0w-30 grasde with the importation of german SLX 0w-30 an excelent oil maybe they'll do it again with this Belgian 5w-40.

Looks like the entire range of Castril is ebing replaced with better product away from group III sold for group IV prices.

The Belgian 5w-40 Syntec is said to be at least group IV.

Fred..

[qship96]

Fred,is it as difficult to find on the shelf as the german ow-30? p.s. hear they are now also making the 0w-30 in the USA,different from the german{great} one-must look carefully at the label!

[PalmerWMD]

Fred,is it as difficult to find on the shelf as the german ow-30? p.s. hear they are now also making the 0w-30 in the USA,different from the german{great} one-must look carefully at the label!

I found the Beligian Syntec 5w-40 today at autozone and the german Syntec can be found usually at autozones too.

Much has been wreitten here on these pages about the german 0w-30 suffice it to say thats its vert stable and a thick 30 almost a 40 weight.

yes you gotto check the labels it gets trickier even some of the USA stuff is better now too look for the ACAE A3 ( not A1) thats the true parameter now as some of the german stuff is mixed with the USA stuff on the shelves.

[elwesso]

I want to see someone run the new Belgian castrol Syntec 5w-40.

After Castrol fixed its 0w-30 grasde with the importation of german SLX 0w-30 an excelent oil maybe they'll do it again with this Belgian 5w-40.

Looks like the entire range of Castril is ebing replaced with better product away from group III sold for group IV prices.

The Belgian 5w-40 Syntec is said to be at least group IV.

Fred..

The probelm is (especilaly when doing a TBN) that they may not always use the EXACT type of oil..... meaning that the syntec 0w30 may or may not be the german stuff...

Thats the reason i didnt have the analysis done on my syntec batch... Which incidentally I can no longer find at my autozones, i look everytime im there...

I think redline is still a great value...

[metaverse3]

Something I have always debated with the local shadetree monkeys and Riceboi's.. Run a good filter..amsoil 10W-30..change oil every 7-8k miles...rinse and repeat. I run my cars past 6k on either a bosch or WIX gold filter. Never had an issue in the last 8+ years. When I tell them an oil change costs $30-$40 on average, they balk..yet, they are already doing 3 oil changes at $20 a pop..and I spend one trip in the shop for every 3 trips that they take.. With my driving, that is about 2 oil changes a year... For that matter, I have also pushed Dino oil (pennzoil high mileage) with BG MOA on every oil change 5k miles..no issues there.. Even on the 93 J30 the maintenance log recommends 7500mile oil changes and this is factory info. Buy good oil and filter, and throw out the 3k brainwash programmed by dealers and shops alike for years to the masses.. Walk into the brave new world of 5k+ oil changes...

[Falkdesigns]

TBN is still acceptable IMO has some reserve left but not gobs of reserve.

The oil thicked up to a 40 weight though.Tells me some oxidation of the base oil has been taking place.

Overall a very good result. lots of ZDDP left too ( AMSOIL kick a$$ in that dept even though its costs them their API certification).

Did you do mostly highway?

Fred..

Very little freway miles, 1 road trip to Vegas, but mostly L.A. city. I use an Amsoil filter (sdf13 IIRC) and factory air which was replaced last summer. They said the TBN numbers they get are generally a little below what some one else might show. They charge 20 bucks, that includes everything above. IMO, I'm happy with what I see. The lady said I should have left my oil in the car and just put a new filter on.

As for the oil thickening up to a 40 weight, they say (both Amsoil and Redline) on the bottle that it's comprable to a higher weight dino-oil.

[qship96]

the oil thickening just barely moved the viscosity into the 40 weight zone,not a big issue-less than half a point lower,and technically it would rate at the top of the 30 weight scale.oil is still servicable at your TBN,and able to fight off acids till it gets to 1.0,so the lab is correct,there was still life left in the oil,it just depends how much metal wear particulates you are comfortable with circulating through your engine-i think you changed it at the right time.

[Q45tech]

Then a Q [older one] is NEW the bearings are really really tight. Why we can get 300,000 miles with excellant new oil change habits.

By 200,000 miles [100,000 mile with bad habits] they are like a US V8 with 50-60,000 miles. After 200,000 miles the ring wear allows blowby and the oil needs changing more frequently..........gets black quicker.

I have gone back from Mobil 1 to conventional and now change every 4,000 miles with MOA [due to my 6 week interval]. At 279,000 miles things are loose [bearings, rings, chains, cams, wrist pins]. She is on borrowed time after 15 years...........who knows when something will finally let go from accumulated stress. Still not using much oil [< a quart] but double what the Mobil 1 allowed.

What you did early matters most.

[PalmerWMD]

The probelm is (especilaly when doing a TBN) that they may not always use the EXACT type of oil..... meaning that the syntec 0w30 may or may not be the german stuff....

Wes its says on the back of the bottle which kind it is.

Fred..

[PalmerWMD]

As for the oil thickening up to a 40 weight, they say (both Amsoil and Redline) on the bottle that it's comprable to a higher weight dino-oil.

They are talking about the HT/HS value not viscosity.

It its ok the results were good.

I think you changed at right time also.

Fred..

[Falkdesigns]

When the oil drained from the pan it was sort of watered down Coke color, not really dark. It also didn't loose a drop, as I check it every time I wash it (every week) and it was always spot on. I know this cars complete service history from new to 58k and again from 72k, so theres a small gap, but this car is very mint. The motor and underside of the car look new. When the car is running, you have to really listen to know it and there are no vibrations whatsoever. Current mileage is 88k, I put about 10k a year on cars, figure I'll drive it for another 3 years and sell it with around 118k and every reciept for service and parts. I take better care of my cars than I do myself

[elwesso]

Wes its says on the back of the bottle which kind it is.

Fred..

I understand, but im saying the oil they may compare it to may not be the exact one you get.. They may just grab any 0w30 castrol syntec and make sure its not the german stuff.........

Then a Q [older one] is NEW the bearings are really really tight. Why we can get 300,000 miles with excellant new oil change habits.

By 200,000 miles [100,000 mile with bad habits] they are like a US V8 with 50-60,000 miles. After 200,000 miles the ring wear allows blowby and the oil needs changing more frequently..........gets black quicker.

I have gone back from Mobil 1 to conventional and now change every 4,000 miles with MOA [due to my 6 week interval]. At 279,000 miles things are loose [bearings, rings, chains, cams, wrist pins]. She is on borrowed time after 15 years...........who knows when something will finally let go from accumulated stress. Still not using much oil [< a quart] but double what the Mobil 1 allowed.

What you did early matters most.

I agree.. I take comfort knowing that my engine has had synthetic all since Fred had it and since Ive had it as well..... SHould live a nice full (and hard driven) life

[SOCAL91Q45a]

Well .. I get he unique opportunity to start with a NEW-ish motor. [on a q45 that is ..]

What filter do you guys recommend?

So AMSOIL / Redline / Mobile 1

What blend of Mobile 1 is recommended, and approx costs.

Amsoil - same question ...

Redline - same question ...

Thanks guys. Ive been a 3 k change it with Mfg'r recommended weights kinda guy forever. No specialty oil knowledge other than change regularly . Hook me up - the right wy pro favor.

SOCAL

[PalmerWMD]

Filters:OEM or NAPA Gold or Mobil1 or K&N in a pinch the Supertech filters are tons better than their low price suggessts.

Winter in SoCal Any full syn 10w-30 (preferable over 5w-30 as fewer or none polymeric thickeners vs 5w-30= less varnish) AMSOIL Mobil1 redline etc. Summer Since So Cal is so hot any of the hi end 40 weights.Syntec 5w-40 (The Belgian kind check on back) or Mobil1 0w-40 or any AMSOIL 40 weight.

Also the Syntec 0w-30 nay be considered as a year around oil, as its <much> thicker than a Mobil1 30 weight ,for summer use, but also start ups very nicein cold as its a 0w-x.

Also very stable lubestock, check the back of bottle must say "meets ACEA A3" must NOT say "meets ACEA A1" as that is a diffferent, lesser formulation

If on a budget:

Chevron Supreme 10w-30 in winter ( excellent oil for its 1.20 price, group II+ base oil) and in 10w-40 in summer same oil.Filter the Super Tech from Walmart.

Fred..

[Falkdesigns]

Filter: Amsoil only for me.

Winter / Summer in So Cal costal areas have very minimal temp differrence. Summer highs are low 80's, winter low's are hight 50's. The temp range here is only about 30-40 degrees. The hottest day of summer near the beach is never over 90. It definitely depends where in So Cal you live, as the temp can be 72 at the beach and 98 in the Valley, only 10 - 15 miles away. I have lived within a few miles of the beach for most of the time I've lived here, AC is hardly needed, same goes for heat.

[qship96]

Wes,when checking the TBN on a used oil analysis,the result isnt affected by the lab knowing exactly what type of oil it was when new.it is what it is!

[elwesso]

I thoguht I read on the website that it compares it with a new sample oil.....

TBN is the coefficient of how much life is left in the oil... Probably some sort of percentage...

[Falkdesigns]

The lady I spoke with told me my TBN was still quite good, and my viscosity was like new Amsoil.

[qship96]

Wes,the TBN result shows the oils ability to fight off acids produced in an internal combustion engine.can safely go down to 2-1 before the oil is shot{not able to effectivly lubricate and resist acids} many oils when new have different TBN values,some better than others,but when checking a used oil analysis the final number for TBN is what you look at,and hope to catch before it gets to low to not be effective anymore{2-1}.some engines,based on design,and more importantly,wear{blowby}{faulty emmission eq.}are much harder on the oil,hence the TBN drops quicker.if my engine showed a TBN rating of say 3.8 at 5,000 miles,your results may be totally different based on your specific engines wear,driving conditions,etc.

[PalmerWMD]

TBN=Total Base Number.

Its the number of milliequivalents of KOH (Potassium Hydroxide a base), of buffering capacity , per ml of oil, left in the oil ( against acid from products of combustion)

Fred..

[texasoil]

I hear lots of noise but no real useful information here. Oil is so cheap compared to fuel and hard parts. Are 3000 mile changes with premium conventional oil overkill? For certain. I would rather be far on th e'overkill' side than just a little on the 'too late' side. You would be amazed at the clear laquer and varnish left in many engines from 5000 mile changes. Leads to early performance decay from sticky and burned rings, etc. If you use a premium quality gasoline with good detergents, and a premium quality conventional oil and good filter, and the engine is in good shape, and you drive a minimum of 15 minutes at highway speed every start-then you can safely go at least 10,000 miles/change. Oil is so cheap.

[qship96]

problem is,how rare is the individual who drives 15 minutes at highway speed AT EVERY CRANK UP? not real word for most of us-and to change perfectly servicable oil too frequently is extremely environmentally unfriendly when you look at total number of vehicles in the world..........which leaves oil analysis to help determine change frequency in your particular vehicle and driving habits-some may need a change at 3,000,some 12,000...........pure guessing without doing an oil analysis.