Gino's 300zx build

[car nut]

Haha tg I was wondering the same thing.

This is a badass build, you should be proud.

[Gino]

the stock lifters should be good up to 9500rpm, I don't plan on going past that

All the intake/intercooler piping will be custom and 2.5"

thanks guys!

[DCaff300ZX]

Glad to see you are still on track with your project, this seems like it will easily become among the top Z's on this site performance-wise...and like TG I wanna see that all crammed into that engine bay somehow!

[Pieceofsand]

this thread is just too much for a man with a blown engine to read

[Gino]

hah, if it makes you feel any better I haven't driven my Z in almost a year..

[nd_aussie]

whered you get that lip?on the front bumper

hah, if it makes you feel any better I haven't driven my Z in almost a year..

[Gino]

made it out of home depot garage door weather stripping

[tg]

the stock lifters should be good up to 9500rpm, I don't plan on going past that

All the intake/intercooler piping will be custom and 2.5"

thanks guys!

9500rpm on stock lifters =

if you want to go over 8000 safely you should be using aftermarket solid lifters. Hydraulic ones can start to float at 7500 ;\

[raremotive]

Hmm, quick ratio? Normal manual steering is about a 4 lock to lock. Your stock rack had a 2.7... Either your planning to do a lot of high speed or drag, your set. But any twists your going to put more work into it.

[Gino]

tg- i was always under the impression the stockers could handle ~8500-9k. I was planning on staying right around 8-8500. The one thing that keeps me away from solid lifters is the constant adjustments for valve lash. I don't feel like ripping the whole front of the motor apart every oil change or 2. I don't plan on sustained high rpms.

f8- my power steering never worked right anyways, it would work through one turn then it would be off. I have driven my car through twists with my power steering belt off and it was not bad. With a true manual rack it will be easier also. Not to mention the weight reduction on my car will also loosen that up a little bit as well. The only "tough" time is when parked, and even then with the OEM rack and no power It wasn't bad. Having a true manual rack makes things a lot easier than using a power hydraulic rack with no power.

[raremotive]

if you want to push a true quick ratio, you can try this out...

CLICK ME!

it's pushes your lock to lock to 2.5 which would be a 7% increase over stock while gaining weight savings. That's assuming that the manual rack pushes out the same length as stock.

[Gino]

that looks pretty nice actually. My main points for removing the power steering was actually for better road feel etc. The manual rack was custom built for the same dimensions as the OEM rack (same pivot point distances etc). I might have to see about getting one of those..

[raremotive]

Yes, same pivot point distance, but the inner push out length is what matters. I have been wondering about that myself. If the push out length is longer it also increases turn in rate as well.. it also gives you tighter turn radius, and more counter steer angle

[ztommyx]

nice build!

i believe you can spend over $20k on that motor easily...mine was over $20k and doesn't even include labor!

AND i'm a dealer with buying everything at dealer costs.

[VigorousZX]

You guys should put video up of your enginesspecially you Tommy, I want to see that glimmer on a side sweep pan

[Gino]

Yes, same pivot point distance, but the inner push out length is what matters. I have been wondering about that myself. If the push out length is longer it also increases turn in rate as well.. it also gives you tighter turn radius, and more counter steer angle

Ah ok yea I get what you're saying lol. I was mis-reading before (on my phone). I know the pivot points being the same is essential to not add bumpsteer. I believe the push length is around the same, if not slightly longer. I will measure that saturday when the car goes up to the shop to get the mounts fab'd up. Would be nice to have a slightly tighter turning radius lol. I'll also key the shop in on a steering quickener and see what they think.

I'll take a video of my motor once it's mostly together The color scheme will be the same as before only better and more simple lol. Black and gold baby! I was originally going for all polished and black but to many people do that now, I gotta be different!

[nd_aussie]

made it out of home depot garage door weather stripping

can you shoot me a close up of it. what material. like size and everything?

[ztommyx]

You guys should put video up of your enginesspecially you Tommy, I want to see that glimmer on a side sweep pan

it's not my thread and don't wanna hijack...but i've been thru my build for almost 5 years

i'll start my own build section.

[raremotive]

I will measure that saturday when the car goes up to the shop to get the mounts fab'd up.

I think stock is 2.34 inches
Modified by Rare_f8 at 12:39 AM 11/13/2009

[twinz1]

Finish the damn engine already! Im sooo jealous lol, i wanna see the dyno that i hope to god your getting on it , but great build

[tg]

yeahhhh so what is left on the project?

[Gino]

Well I need my heads back which will be this week, the shop had to get some extra stuff from supertech and theyre taking a little extra time to do some extra work. Other than that, fuel/oil lines, clutch, ATI dampener, low profile motor mounts, clocking the turbos, IC piping, and tune. So basically aside from the heads, little stuff.

Trailered the car to the shop to get the manual rack fab'd up. I decided against the steering quickener, for what i'll be doing with the car it won't really be necessary or that beneficial. The main down point in the manual rack is my wheel/tire size. But regardless, I'd rather have the feel and feedback of the manual rack then a half working power rack, and to be different (and yes I will also be getting a larger steering wheel which will help. Sparco Ring).

[MICRoS13]

Your gonna make supra owners jealous

[Gino]

haha, thats what i'm hoping!

[REDWINTERZ]

Well you're sure as heck making me jealous! lol What's the projected RWHP? (or at least what you want to get it to, realistically?)

[Gino]

realistically, mid-high 800 wheel, would love to see 900, but that would need a VERY efficient motor/set up (which is what I am trying to do, though). But realistically, there's a chance that it won't hit 900..(even though there's a chance it will. Garrett rates these turbo's at 460+hp, and Garrett also somewhat under-rates their turbos). But we will see. It is definitely getting dyno'd, no questions about that, when it gets tuned. low boost + pump gas (~18-20lbs), and hi-boost + race gas (36lbs)

If i do 23-24lbs on pump + meth I could possibly even see 700 on pump..

[Gino]

Well guys, quick update...after a closer look at the steering rack we (the shop and myself) have come to the conclusion the rack that was suggested is way wrong. The rack that I was told should work is a front steer rack (front steer means that the rack is on the front side of the cross member). The Z being a rear steer, this will not work. Not to mention the rack centered puts the steering shaft about six inches closer to the center of the engine bay. SO, i talked to flaming river and found the right rack and will be doing an exchange, so that might not be done until next week. My heads are almost complete, upon the initial install of everything it turns out the heads have to be cut slightly for the inner spring. We are only getting .375" of lift out of the inner spring, my cams need .385". We could remedy this by removing the seat locaters, but would rather just cut the heads to accommodate so we can still use the seats.

Also, made a new decision for the exhaust. will still be using 3" expansion down pipes which will have the flange cut and replaced with a v-band, then from there back will be 3" straight pipe exhaust (all v-band at any joints), run through a 3" inlet N1 style (HKS hi-power style) muffler. No resonators, no silencers, just 3" piping and a muffler.

so it's coming down to crunch time. If the d!ck bag ever sends my 2 grand back ill be done as soon as I get it. If not, end of this month should suffice. Once the heads are back everything goes together. I will be shaving/painting the engine bay when she car is back, also. Hopefully some updates this week!

[nissanz300]

realistically, mid-high 800 wheel, would love to see 900, but that would need a VERY efficient motor/set up (which is what I am trying to do, though). But realistically, there's a chance that it won't hit 900..(even though there's a chance it will. Garrett rates these turbo's at 460+hp, and Garrett also somewhat under-rates their turbos). But we will see. It is definitely getting dyno'd, no questions about that, when it gets tuned. low boost + pump gas (~18-20lbs), and hi-boost + race gas (36lbs)

If i do 23-24lbs on pump + meth I could possibly even see 700 on pump..

You might wanna do a little more research gino... your internals are only good around 800rwhp max. 900 would blow them apart.

[raremotive]

Wesicos have been used for 1000+ hp apps..

So I am guessing you are talking about the rods. Here's my synopsis, H beam construction is strongest construction of rods, so I doubt there will be a rod failure. And when you read about rod failures, they all occur at the bolt, which then makes it a bolt failure. I seen lots of bolt failures, not rods. Again we are talking forged internals. Cast is a different ballpark.

So based on that. Did you do your research? Because I don't see Gino ever mentioning his rod bolt size for you to determine the 100 hp difference would blow his motor.
Modified by Rare_f8 at 10:16 AM 12/1/2009

[rage941]

Can't wait to see this monster finished.