Gino's 300zx build

[Gino]

:\ might get a bit warm right next to the turbine housing like that... I'd be wary of it melting... those annoying stock coolant lines are hard line until they get away from the turbo's for the same reason...

Those pump pics you posted, that is someone else's setup? I see one with 1 barb and one with 3 lol.

yea for the coolant I might get SS, i was actually thinking about that the other day. Either heat wrap around the nylon line, or just get SS lines. The lines were going to hug the compressor housing and the block, but it would still get a fair amount of heat from the exhaust side so it will probably end up with SS lines down there.

that's my set up lol just gotta look hard, it's all the same there now to get started on the final assembly of the motor i'll put up good pics today

edit: if you meant the pics without the pumps on, the ones with 1 fitting were when i first started. I kind of put the progress backwards lol

[Gino]

well, another small update lol. I could have had the motor completely assembled, but in all my glory i didn't even think that I used my cam seals when I put the JWT milds in the old motor...SO i had to order new seals. Just got them in, so now I can finally fully assemble the motor!

PLUS...

MY CLUTCH IS HERE! lol After 3 months of playing the waiting game Spec still couldn't build my triple disc. So i scrapped that and placed an order for an HKS triple. An extra 400 bucks and a week later I have it! Harry shipped it straight from Japan, no overnight though. I'll play the tease game

HKS huh? what's that mean?

Sweet! A Piece of paper!

s***..i can't read japanese...

OOO...now im beginning to see...

Even better!

count em...1...2...3!



aside from that, I installed the majority of my suspension bits. All 4 corners have the coilovers installed, I need to do my front camber arms and tension rods, my rear camber arms are installed as well as the hicas delete, BUT i also have solid subframe bushings and dif bushings on the way (so the rear installs were pointless as it's all coming out anyways). I will also be getting S14 front and rear LOWER control arms (adjustable. The S14 shares the same basic suspension as us) so I can adjust my wheel track and have a FULL range of adjustability in the suspension.



I am still working on the fuel bulkhead, all that's left is the return assembly. I am still waiting on some parts from Z1. Ash's dual fuel pump controller is on backorder, hopefully soon. As well as 300 degree triple din is on back order. On the way is another AEM wideband (running dual wideband as the primary O2's on the haltech), two EGT's, and an OPS. I will be cutting my double pod on the A pillar to a single pod..my gauge set-up will be as follows:60mm Greddy boost gauge on the A pillar,wideband's mounted on the AC pod left on top/right on bottom, Left EGT/Oil Pressure/Right EGT in the triple din, all of that is on the way (minus the triple din).

Next up is exhaust, Wilwood brakes, then tune!! So damn close now!

[tg]

Lookin good! how much does that hks triple weigh? I have an os giken 2 disc that came on my front clip but I had troubles getting the rebuild kit from them and it was quite heavy if I remember...

[tg]

hah, reminds me of something...

[Gino]

haha nice

and yea the HKS triple is a heavy clutch. 40lbs worth of clutch to be exact..

[tg]

haha nice

and yea the HKS triple is a heavy clutch. 40lbs worth of clutch to be exact..

Are you using a mechanical fan or electric? If you use an electric fan and an electric water pump you'll probably have less strain on the engine even with a heavier clutch.

[Gino]

na, OEM fan and water pump. I trust mechanical more than electrical, the pull will be minimal and probably not even noticeable on this build lol

[DCaff300ZX]

I dunno about not taking advantage of EVERY improvement possible for the best possible performance from your engine, since even a minute improvement could become a few extra HP for your extreme build and most importantly, produce a more efficient rotating assembly that will last longer and work better by fighting itself less.

PLEASE don't think this means I know more than you do as I do not and your build proves you know your s**t, but the above is really some "old school" hot-rodding 101 and among the lowest costs of a mega-engine build...

Regardless, keep it up Gino as I am really excited to see what you are able to get outta that monster!

[tg]

Yeah it wont make any big HP differences, but it will make the engine quite a bit more responsive.

Either way, its probably not much heavier than the stock flywheel and an aftermarket clutch.

[Gino]

oh i know it's an improvement, but like I said, electronics fail a lot easier and quicker than something manual. In terms of cooling system, a mechanical fan is a lot more simple than an electronic fan. Same with a water pump. Two things that important and vital I feel a lot safer with running something that is almost fail safe. When a mechanical water pump starts going it gives you a sign, leaking. When an electronic water pump fails on you the only time you'll know is when you're already over heating. Same thing with the fans. Obviously you can free up HP from them, but it's a matter of feeling safer on the build with the old school stuff.

Obviously I'm not saying that the electronic fans and pump will fail right away, but it is a lot more common and there are a lot more variables that will affect them going up and not working. People have had problems with E-fans, and obviously Brett makes amazing products, but I still just feel safer with a belt driven pump. Unless the pump itself goes up, the only other thing affecting it's performance is the belt. With electronics there's a lot more that can go wrong.

BUT...we shall see lol. I've thought about e-fans but I like in a state that gets decently hot in the summer and you have to have the perfect fan to not overheat. We'll see what I figure out though lol

[tg]

Yeah I'm going to stick with the mechanical water pump, but I'm heavily contemplating an e-fan set up cause the fan is a LOT of parasitic drag and at 8000rpm that b**** is making a TON of noise. I was just looking at the BDE pump though and it looked tempting

[Gino]

motor is just about all done. Need to clean my gold valve covers, and still need to powder coat my other plenum, but thats easy stuff. Now I just need to finish the engine bay work, finish the rear subframe (When i get the parts in), and run the fuel lines (With the subframe out)

Power Enterprise timing belt



modified TB cover so i can adjust the cam gears while still retaining covers

[DCaff300ZX]

I understand your thinking and actually feel similarly when it comes to life-support parts such as cooling, thanks for your in-depth response and hopefully you come up with a happy medium along the way as I am very interested to see your final results.

[tg]

That looks good! You sticking with the gold theme for the valve covers?

also, just thinking... why did you choose the gt30's over hte 2871R's? would they not have gotten you to 700-800 with a bit less lag?
Modified by tg at 3:14 PM 3/28/2010

[Gino]

That looks good! You sticking with the gold theme for the valve covers?

also, just thinking... why did you choose the gt30's over hte 2871R's? would they not have gotten you to 700-800 with a bit less lag?

Modified by tg at 3:14 PM 3/28/2010

The 2871 is a good turbo, but it is a mismatched turbo. The compressor wheel is to big for the turbine/housing- This makes the 2871 less efficient. It can still put power out there, but the lag difference between the different turbos is minimal, and the 3071 is a much more balanced turbo. I've seen dyno's on a 1.8t comparing the two turbos on the same car, the 3071 spools 200rpms later but has significantly better top end power/speed at the same boost level, both .64A/R.

Not to mention using a MAP sensor and the custom FMIC that will eliminate 3 feet of piping, plus the manifolds/head work will help cut lag down also. Greg Dupree stated that these turbo's should have a spool similar to HKS 2530's with the right set up, and they are less laggy than the 2871's. So we shall see

and yes, the valve covers are staying gold and the plenum is staying black

[tg]

The 2871 is a good turbo, but it is a mismatched turbo. The compressor wheel is to big for the turbine/housing- This makes the 2871 less efficient. It can still put power out there, but the lag difference between the different turbos is minimal, and the 3071 is a much more balanced turbo. I've seen dyno's on a 1.8t comparing the two turbos on the same car, the 3071 spools 200rpms later but has significantly better top end power/speed at the same boost level, both .64A/R.

Not to mention using a MAP sensor and the custom FMIC that will eliminate 3 feet of piping, plus the manifolds/head work will help cut lag down also. Greg Dupree stated that these turbo's should have a spool similar to HKS 2530's with the right set up, and they are less laggy than the 2871's. So we shall see

and yes, the valve covers are staying gold and the plenum is staying black

Good to know!

Get some pics with the plenum on I want to see how that gold/black color combo will look as I imagine it will be pretty sick.

[Gino]

that was the old motor. This one will be a lot brighter, cleaner, and less cluttered (engine bay, motor, etc) but that's the general idea. The valve covers were PC'd but it wasn't really bright so I just painted them again, the clear is drying right now so I'll have them on this week and I need to finish de-buring the plenum then that will get PC'd or painted black and the IC piping will be black as well

[MICRoS13]

I'll sweep your floors if i can haz all your old parts

[Gino]

Drilled/tapped the turbos for my boost source reference. I.E. not having to make nipples on the IC piping for the wastegate. Just run from the ports to the boost solenoid to the wastegates.

tell me what's different with the plenum (other than it being black obviously)...

got my fuel pumps/scavage (return) system all clamped and finished up.

Also got all my gauges. Another wideband, 2 EGT, OPS

the EGT/OPS gauges are GlowShift tinted, actually look really cool. I have read from a lot of different sources (forums) that they perform just as well as HKS, Defi, and Greddy. The response is just as quick, and they are spot on accurate compared to the big name gauges. The glowshift gauges are going in a 300degree triple din (whenever they're off back order) *left EGT, OPS, right EGT*, the widebands are going on the AC pod, and then my boost gauge stays on the A pillar.

Also, solid subframe bushings! going to finish all that up very soon.

[Ace2cool]

Damnit, now I have to clean my keyboard again. Every friggin time I open this thread.

Looking friggin sweet Gino.

[Pieceofsand]

Glowshift gauges FTW

[tg]

Shaved off the screw holes for the fpr and damper? (that and port matched it)

[Gino]

lol you got it bro! All the unnecessary bosses and mounts are gone Next is the throttle bodies and the linkage mount that gets painted black. Kind of don't want to paint the Z1 throttle bodies, but it wouldn't look right with shiney silver on the black with black piping. Oh well! Finishing up my front suspension stuff today since I haven't installed any of that.

[tg]

lol you got it bro! All the unnecessary bosses and mounts are gone Next is the throttle bodies and the linkage mount that gets painted black. Kind of don't want to paint the Z1 throttle bodies, but it wouldn't look right with shiney silver on the black with black piping. Oh well! Finishing up my front suspension stuff today since I haven't installed any of that.

They'll look better if they're black...

[Gino]

exactly what I was thinking. That engine bay is pretty looking. Just need to get rid of all the clutter that is a TT engine bay haha. Mine will be opened up a little more than that one. Getting very close! All my front suspension stuff is done. Just need to do the subframe, then test fit the motor/turbos to check clocking

[DCaff300ZX]

They'll look better if they're black...

Man, now it's my turn to mess up the keyboard!

[tg]

exactly what I was thinking. That engine bay is pretty looking. Just need to get rid of all the clutter that is a TT engine bay haha. Mine will be opened up a little more than that one. Getting very close! All my front suspension stuff is done. Just need to do the subframe, then test fit the motor/turbos to check clocking

oh, i was just thinking... are you going to find a way to keep the fuel filter out of the engine bay? that would help clean things up a bit. That and fuse box relocation and battery relocation and s*** would be pretty clean under there

[DMeN Z]

Thought no one had a gold black engine bay yet...At least now I know it looks super good...

[Gino]

oh, i was just thinking... are you going to find a way to keep the fuel filter out of the engine bay? that would help clean things up a bit. That and fuse box relocation and battery relocation and s*** would be pretty clean under there

Yea, I have two inline -8 fuel filters that will be under the car frame rails (i.e. ran along where the stock hard lines go). Fuse box delete will be happening this week, as well as shaving all un-used holes in the bay and a repaint, and my battery is already in the hatch.

Thought no one had a gold black engine bay yet...At least now I know it looks super good...

haha yea I did it a while ago. you can still do it though...

[tg]

Yea, I have two inline -8 fuel filters that will be under the car frame rails (i.e. ran along where the stock hard lines go). Fuse box delete will be happening this week, as well as shaving all un-used holes in the bay and a repaint, and my battery is already in the hatch.



haha yea I did it a while ago. you can still do it though...

s*** power steering and hicas gone too! only way to get much cleaner would be to get rid of the engine