QShip wrote:That would be nice. Maybe HeavyDuty would head this up.
I was trying to be helpful without stomping on his post/desire to see this through. You're right, there's a lot of considerations and a Ready, Fire, Aim! approach could be disastrous. dkill is to be commended for his initiative & willingness to see it through. I hope at no time have any of my comments been construed as counter-productive, it's just that I hate to see people make costly mistakes, even if that cost is just disappointment and nothing else.
QShip wrote:My concern is I don't want to see anyone's Q destroyed because some detail was missed. Has anyone mentioned what type of sparkplugs that will have to be used after the Q is s/c? What will happen when it's 95 degrees outside and heat soaking becomes a factor? What about the blow off valve?
Destruction is a possibility without a power adder, but more critical when using one. Plugs on a 6psi kit would be ok with the same heat range, but preferably Irids (non plat tipped irids) or copper core, definately no platinum or double platinum, although some manufacturers (Ford, for instance in the new Lightning & probably 03> Cobras) are using plats in s/c applications with low boost for emissions reasons. A plug is an emissions control device, BTW.
The intercooler provides for a ~40 hp gain over the same boost level non aftercooled. They remove up to 100 degrees from the intake charge. If you use a JWT boost program, it will make whatever corrections necessary to deal with changing conditions. However, as I mentoned before, a non ECU or rather stock ECU with FMU setup will require more fiddling as the seasons change. Winter tune / Summer tune.
A blow-off or recirculation valve should be integrated into the manifold so that when in vacuum (cruising) it doesn't boost the motor constantly. I'm sure this has already been addressed in the BAD kit by Mr. Knight, but that's why I wanted to see the setup AZ was talking about before I expressed any interest in the setup personally.
Besides the BIG stuff, the little stuff is of concern, too. Annoying stuff like belt tensioning, or hopefully lack thereof in constant adjustments. Good tensioners, materials that can withstand being installed/removed many times. I've seen and installed kits from *just about* all of the big boys & even theirs lack somewhat in execution & particularly in the installation drawings/diagrams, it's obvious they wrote the manual for installation with the engine OUT OF THE CAR!
Also, FWIW, I've not heard of any manufacturing differences on the kits between the 90-95 years insofar as Base, Active, or Touring differences, architectural differences on models with TCS, etc.
QShip wrote:I would definitely listen to AGM's suggestions and I would call aaacomp aka Glenn. As I said before, he knows alot about enhancing the performance of the Q without compromising reliability.
Just some things to think about.
Don't ask AGM, he's running a centrifugal.

Just kidding, of course. Turns on a little slow, but comes on like a freight train or hand of God pressing you into the seat further & further. An Eaton is good for BLAM! out of the hole boost, which can be a more stressful on driveline components than a centrifugal that lets the car get underway before gradually letting loose. An Eaton probably also generates more heat at higher rpms. Any time you compress (air, in this case) it's going to get hot. The centrifugal gets hot, too, don't get me wrong.
I probably should have kept my mouth shut on that last paragraph. But on the positive side (pardon the pun) an Eaton has proven to require far less frequent rebuild intervals and is MUCH quieter than a Paxton/Vortech (now the same company but different units) and Lord knows an ATI, needless to mention Powerdyne, etc. I know most of you wouldn't be OK with +/- 2 year rebuild intervals (for a daily driver) on even the best Centrifugal from a cost/downtime standpoint. Also, the lack of oil supply & drain required for *most* centrifugals makes a unit like the Eaton more desireable from an installation standpoint -vs- turbo, Vortech, Paxton. The ATI & Powerdyne, among others, are self contained lubricated.
I'm rambling again, sorry to all, but I would hate to see enthusiasm surpass thoughtful, thorough, common sense in concept and execution.
AZ, dkill, if I can be of any assistance, please let me know. If you'd like me to keep my comments to myself, that's OK, too.

No hard feelings. :pface