Post by
HeavyDuty »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/heavyduty-u10182.html
Mon Feb 23, 2004 7:49 pm
OK, so I took a couple of minutes to clean & inspect my new diff. I can pretty quickly see a couple of issues we're going to run into on a gear swap, but nothing that should require the services of a Shaman.
Diff cover removed,
Cover....blekk, covered in baked on Gra-Doo. Since the cover is aluminum & the fins are there to dissipate heat, any road grime or leaking gear oil gets baked on & reduces the cover's ability to cool the housing.
Close up of housing, note the almost nonexistent wear pattern on the teeth of the ring gear, nice, fresh, but inevitably stinky fluid is evenly coated on everything. The teeth are sharp and the drain plug magnet had a very light bit of material on it, was easily cleaned. See that cylinder shaped pin in the center of the carrier with the yellow marking on it? That pin must be removed in order to remove the axle stubs, in a subsequent pic I'll show you what will be required in order to reinstall that pin with the different gear set.
OK, see on the top of the pin that it's not round all the way around? That's because it has been machined in order for the flat side to clear the thickness of the ring gear teeth, then rotated once in the hole in order for the retainer bolt that secures the pin to be accessed. When we install numerically higher gears, the fewer teeth on the pinion will make it smaller, making the thickness of the ring gear thicker. Hope that makes sense. So, that pin will have to be machined even further in order to be installed with the taller (thicker) ring gear. This is a normal thing to do in a situation like this. Also, the thicker ring gear is what makes longer ring gear bolts necessary. I had a pic of the dial indicator that's used to measure backlash, but it didn't come out very well. This diff was well taken care of, backlash was only .004" (4 thousandths, perfect). Backlash is the amount of slop or movement where input is made at the pinion *without* any movement output to the stubs through the assembly. Make sense? Also, since I suspect the 4.08 or 4.11 gear is from an aplication that uses smaller axle stubs (as AZHitman already posted) then the need to machine shims of the appropriate (larger) inside diameter will be required because they were made for a carrier with smaller diameter axle stubs. Easy-cheesy.
This is a pic of the mocked-up reassembled unit after tedious hours of cleaning. See that little round stub sticking out of the top right of the cover? That is a vent. When things get hot in there, pressure builds up & must be allowed to escape. It's just a little tube with a cap that rides loosely to allow the venting. Don't ask me how I did it, but I checked to see if the vent was operational by...er....creating a vacuum around the outside of it & was unable to get it to draw air through. When it arrived from the junkyard, it was upside down & fluid had leaked out of the vent. It probably got some trash in it or got bent. I will replace this piece with a new one. It's easy to install & very important. If it is clogged or otherwise non-functional, pressure will build up in there and the fluid will be forced out at the seals. Messy & unnecessary.
Not to be overconfident, but if we were to have cores as nice as this one is, there would be no need to rebuild the diff in order to do gear swaps. I think the gears are available, the shims, bolts, and machining required is doable.
This unit is going in my car as-is. My diff is totally shot & I will experiment with that one on the gear upgrade. Since I have to go through it anyway, I might as well not fool with this perfect specimen.