In December 2008, I bought a 1984 Nissan/Datsun 4x4 KingCab.
It was purchased new by an older man who gifted it to his grandson last year. The motor is a 2.4L, napZ24. Just under 116,000 on the clock.
Side
Gate
Front
Motor
Carb Z
Interior
Miles
I have decided his name is Zombro. I got zombro and drove from Newport News to Virginia beach with a shaky idle but drives solid. He has problems idling at 700-800 which is what is was idling at. I adjusted the pedal after a tune-up to idle at 1000.
When I turn sharply I heard a loud noise but I kinda think its a diff, but not sure.
I looked at a 1973-1989 Datsun/Nissan 200sx, 240sx, 510, 610, 710, 810, maxima manual and it has the z22 carb motor in the book and this seems to be the correct firing order if anyone is interested.
The Z24 engine has 8 firing ports; four on the intake manifold side of the engine,four on the exhaust side. They are numbered one intake (i.e. I1)starting from the rear of the engine to four(i.e. I4) at the front.This repeats for the exhaust side as well (i.e E1 to E4 ). The appropriate ignition wire plugs are stamped on the distributor cap that is I1 will be inserted into I1 stamped on the cap.
What kind of oil for my transmission and differential?
I changed oil, using 10w40 mobile high mile. Still runs rough though, I don't know if I should have it taken in? How do you know a carb is bad?Desert Rat wrote:Standard 75w90 or 80w90 gear oil is fine for the Diffs and Tcase. Transmissions typically require GL4 specifically - Napa carries this in 2qt jugs.
They're easy enough to do. You have a drain plug and a fill plug. Always remove the fill plug first so you can ensure you can get fluids in it after you've drained fluids out of it.
did any of the 720's come with a solid front axle?
I kind of want a small air filter can I swap out the carb for like a weber?Desert Rat wrote:The Z24 is a common engine and you could always look into swapping in a later one from a late 80s hardbody that's fuel injected. It would bolt right in - you'd need the ECU and wiring harness for it too.
Start looking for vacuum leaks. Get a can of carb cleaner and with the truck idling, spray around vacuum fittings and the carb (with the air cleaner on). If that idle changes or the truck dies when you spray a certain spot, you found a leak. A rebuilt carb could be a last resort.
No Nissan pickups in the US ever came stock with a solid front axle. The first 4wds were in 1979-1980 and they were like yours, but with a smaller 2.2 liter engine.
If so what would be a good size for the stock motor daily driven.
no smog testing where I live. I tried spraying the vacuum lines and seemed to change idle but not turn off the motor. I pushed all the hoses together at the t joint or which ever air port it was connected to, and then sprayed again and it doesn't change idle but also didn't fix my idle problem.Desert Rat wrote:do you have smog tests where you live?
That'd probably be my main concern on swapping carbs. If not, go for it.
I'm not sure what you'd need, but it would seem anything more than 350-400CFM would be serious overkill.
I'm sure Weber lists the different applications for their carbs.
So should I replace the vacuum lines just to do it?
Modified by breadbox at 4:33 PM 6/8/2009
Modified by breadbox at 11:57 AM 10/19/2009
