BMW 318IS VH41DETT build up

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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Mettler
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Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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Ezekial, please refer to the d1nz forums for further information. All the top drift guys here with RB26 & RB30 powered S13s, Cefiros & Laurels are drifting these gearboxes and running high HP numbers (over 500HP), and I've spoken with a couple of the guys who say the trans is mint !

As riu said, it's all how you drive. Powershifting, flat shifting etc, that'll root any gearbox after enough time... but if you treat it with respect, give the synchros time to engage, and aren't generally rough as guts, the box will last. The teeth are strong enough to withstand the torque at least !


doctorchee
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doctorchee wrote:My new plans. cut firewall..

Should have thought of that long time ago. I only recall this idea when I see the other car around...****...
Hi All

Here is some update... since a long time that my stupid slow mechanic made some progression....

Here it goes..............

All are welcome to give comments and advise....

doctorchee
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more

doctorchee
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take this.... lots of space for a nice V-mount intercooler and radaitor...

anyway, the engine will move back about 4 more inch...

Making it a MR instead of a FR... ??? hahaha

doctorchee
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this is the black hole before the engine sits in.....

anyway, hope everything will work out well... as honestly, not sure this will work out well a not....


doctorchee
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hole from the back.....

doctorchee
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Plan at the moment....

- complete the engine mount and sits the engine nicely, - do full roll cage (many points).... - V160 6th speed box... while doing roll cage, take engine out to do it - exhaust, turbo, V-mount intercooler, radiator...- computer...- burn out time...

Let me know if there is any squence that you think it might be better...

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elwesso
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The motor is literally gonna be in your lap!!!

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Ezekial
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Cut firewall ... interesting ... looks good!!
Mettler wrote:Ezekial, please refer to the d1nz forums for further information. All the top drift guys here with RB26 & RB30 powered S13s, Cefiros & Laurels are drifting these gearboxes and running high HP numbers (over 500HP), and I've spoken with a couple of the guys who say the trans is mint !

As riu said, it's all how you drive. Powershifting, flat shifting etc, that'll root any gearbox after enough time... but if you treat it with respect, give the synchros time to engage, and aren't generally rough as guts, the box will last. The teeth are strong enough to withstand the torque at least !
drifting is a little different as the cars are designed to get zero traction ... so the load on the gearbox is no hassle. put a solid centre 3 puck (drag style) clutch or a twin/triple plate with a big set of slicks and see how well the box holds up

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Mettler
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Yeah but cmon, drag racing ??? :p Drag's getting old mate ! What about circuit racing ?

Doctorchee: Wow you certainly have made a bit of work for yourself there ! Hope you can pull this off, it'll be.... interesting

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Ezekial
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drifting was old the first day it showed its ugly face

circuit racing is in the same league as drag racing ... put slicks all round and see how the gearbox holds up (and i dont mean babying gear changes because that is NOT circuit racing )

doctorchee
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elwesso wrote:The motor is literally gonna be in your lap!!!
I will be doing a new firewall or rather a cover for the engine.

The seat will be shifted by and that goes for all the foot pedal...

I guess it will end up more like a MR instead or FR car... U


doctorchee
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Ezekial wrote:Cut firewall ... interesting ... looks good!!

drifting is a little different as the cars are designed to get zero traction ... so the load on the gearbox is no hassle. put a solid centre 3 puck (drag style) clutch or a twin/triple plate with a big set of slicks and see how well the box holds up
Thanks for the encouragement.......I felt the project is getting way too much and I feel it may have a lots of problems coming up.... but since I am halfway through, I will try all ways to finish it...

doctorchee
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Doctorchee: Wow you certainly have made a bit of work for yourself there ! Hope you can pull this off, it'll be.... interesting [/QUOTE]

yeah.. I hope I can pull it off also.. as now, honestly, I not sure I can make everything line up properly a not...

I know in reality its not easy to make your ideal set up come true, but I will not give up..... as there is not turning back now in anyway

maxnix
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Ezekial wrote:drifting was old the first day it showed its ugly face
It is like sychronized swimming for for wannabe racers.

Moving the engine back is a great idea, but you will need to serioiusly re-engineer the comprmised firewall. I would suggest considering a dry sump like Dixon as the <6 qts. of oil will be sufficient for turbo application. Cooling will probably be problem, also. I would forget NOx if you want your engine to live more than a few runs, especialy at 150.

When you say you can't afford the strong transmissions, I would say you are at the limits of your budget for a project of this scope. To do it right, lots of cash required or your own extensive automotive engineering knowledge and your own first class race shop. You will be spending lots of money even after it is all together.

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David Steele
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You basically made a front midship : you have a midengine car now I was going to ask you if you have considered cutting the firewall.

Thats also what I'm going to do as handliing is a priority.

Also on the drifting thing it is not a tractionless sport you need alot of traction or else you cannot do it basically putting your vehicle into the wall.

There's even a popular tire thats high grip and does well with the high temps drifting creates on tires there called the Yokohama advan neova's .
Modified by David Steele at 8:53 AM 8/14/2006

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David Steele
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maxnix wrote:It is like sychronized swimming for for wannabe racers.

Moving the engine back is a great idea, but you will need to serioiusly re-engineer the comprmised firewall. I would suggest considering a dry sump like Dixon as the <6 qts. of oil will be sufficient for turbo application. Cooling will probably be problem, also. I would forget NOx if you want your engine to live more than a few runs, especialy at 150.

When you say you can't afford the strong transmissions, I would say you are at the limits of your budget for a project of this scope. To do it right, lots of cash required or your own extensive automotive engineering knowledge and your own first class race shop. You will be spending lots of money even after it is all together.
I dont know where you got that from but doing this is cake. Cooling wont ever be an issue. All he needs to do is build a tubular subframe around the engine and hes done. Turbo manifold can now be directed to the front of the engine, and he can place it lower if he uses a dry sump.

This setup is like that guy from the middle east who made the 4 turbo mercedes v12 engine in his nissan skyline. Here http://img.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpgh ... lb...6.jpg

Honestly if you can make a roll cage and build guessets you can do this. Triangulation and torsional stiffness if you dont know the basic use of the triangle then I'd be worried.


ultrapulse
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mtcookson wrote:Isn't the GTS-T box the same used in the Z32?
The Z32 trans has the same gear cluster as the GTR box. I don't know whether the GTsT does actually use the GTR cluster.Yes the z32 box is very strong. I have 2 mates using them (make that 3), one drives like an idiot and has 406rwkw and one very noisey gearbox after years of abuse, also flatshifts and uses lanch-control at the drags. He hasnt broken one yet and drives on the road with race tyres. The other one has apparently got 500rwkw, but I saw it do 480rwkw about 1 month ago in tauranga. He hasnt had any crunch issues yet. The z32 boxes do **** synchros if u race them hard, but i havent yet heard of one going bang, and teh z32 is now the car that i know most about.As for the celica/supra boxes, I have used those over the years. I believe the celica to be good for around 300-350hp, and the supra to be good for 400hp+. I think 500hp is being optimistic if its 500 V8 hp. Great box though at only 35kg dry weight, lighter than the celica one at 45kgs. I mean the 80's supras as well. The new 6 speeds, ie 93 onwards are supposedly great but I dont know much about them, but from what I have heard they are like twice as strong as the old supras. The Z32 box is 55kgs, but worth its weight. I am using a GM T56 box in mine. Hopefully i dont blow that. If so I have a spare z32 box, but doubt whether it would be quite as strong as the t56. Similar size externally. T56 is approx 58kgs.Also dont even bother loooking at the z31 box, they used the T5, and not even the tougher t5.Also the Z32 TT and NA use BASICALLY the same box, with a few differences (according to the fiche i have) but strengthwise yes the are equally strong, and run the same gear ratios.

doctorchee
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David Steele wrote:
I dont know where you got that from but doing this is cake. Cooling wont ever be an issue. All he needs to do is build a tubular subframe around the engine and hes done. Turbo manifold can now be directed to the front of the engine, and he can place it lower if he uses a dry sump.

This setup is like that guy from the middle east who made the 4 turbo mercedes v12 engine in his nissan skyline. Here http://img.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpgh ... lb...6.jpg

Honestly if you can make a roll cage and build guessets you can do this. Triangulation and torsional stiffness if you dont know the basic use of the triangle then I'd be worried.
Thanks for the photo. That exactly what I will be doing.

Yes, there will be roll cage all over the car and the roll cage will even be incorporated into the chassie for further strenght.

There will be tubular subframe all over the engine for support. What I am going to do after discussion with my mechanic is exactly what you mentioned. I guess I am going the right track.

Well, thanks for your advise and will keep update on any progress...



RegardsDerrick

riu
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wow, it looks like you've made some good progress, i'm excited to see what you do next

doctorchee
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Hi All

since some time. please find some update on the process.

In general, engine have finally set in. the rest of the things will follows shortly:

1) power steering2) fuel system3) radiator 4) intercooler5) turbos6) exhaust7) brakes8) ecu9) full roll cage



Modified by doctorchee at 12:19 AM 12/11/2006

Modified by doctorchee at 12:23 AM 12/11/2006 [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
Modified by doctorchee at 12:24 AM 12/11/2006

doctorchee
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engine- can't get the picture up, don't know why, will try later again[IMG][/IMG]
Modified by doctorchee at 6:28 PM 12/11/2006

doctorchee
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[IMG][/IMG]

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David Steele
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Send them to me I'll post them up for you.
Modified by David Steele at 1:37 PM 1/25/2010

doctorchee
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Hi

Thanks.

Picture have been sent.

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David Steele
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doctorchee
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Thank you.

Any comments from anyone?

my worry is it does not work... haha

T45
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No, no it's all wrong. Just ship it to me and I'll dispose of it for you.

Haha, it all looks good. I would suggest putting in some gussets in the motor mounts just to strengthen them up a bit after you get everything else situated in there. That's a lot of weight and torque pulling on the now extended mounts and you don't want to have to do this again right? Or you could even make a plate and weld it onto the edges of your fabricated mounts basically making a square "tube" that the mount sits on. Something to keep it from becoming a paralellagram.

I just realized once again how huge this engine is. Huge and sexy! Like me...

T45
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Something like this. Black would be the gussets or you could do a plate as drawn in red just to tie everything together. Remember, the strongest possible shape is a triangle so whenever possible triangulate all 90 degree joints.


doctorchee
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Hi

Thanks so much for your comments.

I will do this instead.. what do you think? if it don't work, i will have to ship to u to help me to dispose. keke.

the blue is the new extra parts to support the mount. i figure that closing the whole mount (red in your pic) will cause maintainance problem as if I need to open up the mount screw.

All comments are welcome, good or bad or very bad...



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